Page 23 of 27 FirstFirst ... 13 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 LastLast
Results 441 to 460 of 533
  1. #441
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    30
    Ryan, here's what I came up with for upper hoses, I guesstimated the overall length from your measurements.
    Dayco.
    72112- 16" overall length
    72484- 16.5" " "
    72050- 17" " "

    I don't have my engine installed yet, going by trial and error, so check things out beforehand maybe by bringing your fabbed one with you to the parts store and see if it matches up. Anyhow hope one of these work out when you decide to change.



    Simon


  2. #442
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,572
    Country Flag: United States
    Quote Originally Posted by 1stgenchop View Post
    Anyway to keep the Jack Daniels boil over bottle?
    Haha, nice spot. I have actually been thinking about building a quick bracket and bolting it down somewhere. It's kinda "rat rod" but I kinda like it haha.

    Thanks Simon! I'm not in a big hurry to swap out the radiator hose because it works for now, but when I do I'll update the thread. Thanks for giving me a starting off point. Do you have a build thread here?


    1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  3. #443
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    30
    Thanks Simon! I'm not in a big hurry to swap out the radiator hose because it works for now, but when I do I'll update the thread. Thanks for giving me a starting off point. Do you have a build thread here?[/QUOTE]


    No build thread yet........still accumulating parts for the LS conversion, have to build up the Tremec war chest account.
    Plus I have a healthy small block with a Muncie, need OD though.
    http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewga...wimg&id=382980

  4. #444
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,572
    Country Flag: United States
    Your car looks great Simon! I really like how you went with no console for your interior. That's what I am planning to do as well, can you tell me what shift boot that is?


    1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  5. #445
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,572
    Country Flag: United States
    It's been a few weeks since I've had an update. I got a little burnt out from pushing so hard to be able to drive it this year. Well cold weather is here in Upstate, NY and the car is up on stands and will be up until spring. I've really just been tinkering on the car here and there, but had enough progress that it could qualify for an update. One thing I have been working on is getting the upper cowl piece installed. I didn't realize that the lower trim piece actually held on the cowl. I was missing one of the end clips and had it for a while before I attempted to install it. I was very disappointed with the lack of fitment. It was completely the wrong shape and was actually too short to reach where the original screw was. after a lot of tweaking I was able to make it work well enough to get it to hold with a screw in the stock location.





    I also test fit my wiper arm with new blades and was happily surprised to find that my wiper motor works 100%. It will turn high, low, and then return back to the off position. I've read where some motors have bad internal grounding and will just stop where ever you shut them off.

    Another project I started on was figuring out my fuel level sender. I'm not sure what is causing the level sensor to error out, but I figured now that I have a programmable gauge, I'll just use the stock LS3 fuel level sensor that is located on the fuel pump assembly. I removed it initially, but don't want to pay another $40 bucks for another universal, and I already had the one that came with my pump. I searched around and couldn't seem to find any concrete data showing the fuel level ohms for the 5th gen pump. I confirmed that the full level is 240-33 ohms empty to full. I also double checked hooking it to my gauge and it works properly.

    Empty:



    Full:



    I also have a good parts update. I picked up a pair of brand new LH/Driver's side 98-02 Fbody backing plates for my LS1 rear brakes. When I did the swap originally I wanted to keep the brakes symmetrical but the rear caliper is just too close to the shock for my comfort. I got a great deal from a member her on PT, and he also included a set of brackets to use the stock ebrake cables that were custom made for 1st gens and some spacers. I'm hoping to get those swapped out soon and while I'm pulling the axles, I'm going to drill them out for 1/2" studs to match the front.



    I've also been doing some maintenance on my Daily Driver 03 Silverado. I checked my oil a while back and noticed that there was a flake of rust! WTF, so upon closer review I noticed that the dipstick was rusting in half. So I swapped that out for an AC Delco replacement.



    Then when I was changing the plugs a few weeks ago, I finally decided to extract the two rear manifold bolts that broke the heads off. Anyone that has been around these trucks know that it's all too common for the heads of the bolts to pop off. Well mine started to cause an awful manifold leak and drove me nuts. Best method for getting them out without pulling the manifolds is to weld a nut to the head. Sounds a lot easier than it was. 3 hours later I finally got them both removed and replaced with new revised bolts. The problem wasn't really getting to the bolts it was getting the welds to stick. Everything was rusted and I couldn't just put a grinder in there to clean it up.



    My plan for the next few months will be to:

    -Get the front springs pulled back out, cut and re-installed to drop the front end where it should be
    -Pull the axles, drill for 1/2" studs, swap on my new LH
    -Finish/Tidy up all of my wiring (tail light harness, fuel level sender, Fan relays, etc)
    -Re-finish and install interior components.
    -See if I can fit tail pipes/weld on a wideband bung

    All for now.
    Ryan


    1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  6. #446
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a View Post
    Your car looks great Simon! I really like how you went with no console for your interior. That's what I am planning to do as well, can you tell me what shift boot that is?
    Here you go, its the stock factory one from a 69.
    http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/s...Hurst-Shifter/
    http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/s...GM%23-9780055/

  7. #447
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    253
    Country Flag: United States
    Love the build Ryan
    2014 ZL1

  8. #448
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    5,586
    Country Flag: United States
    The Gen5 FLS along with most all other moder GM chassis have a 40F/250E ohm range.

    If 33 ohms is used the gauge will never go to empty. Others have tried it.......
    VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

  9. #449
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,572
    Country Flag: United States
    Thanks for all of the compliments! I really do appreciate them.

    Carl, thanks for the correction. I guess it would make sense that it's 40-250 since that is almost exactly what I got when I used the OHM meter. I just assumed it was similar to the 4th gen cars and it was +/- a few OHM's on full or empty. Good thing with my Dakota Digital gauges is that I can use a custom gauge range to set it however I want.


    1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  10. #450
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    5,586
    Country Flag: United States
    No problem. Here's another $0.02 suggestion.

    With the needed FLS electronics hooked up but the pump power disconnected, set the E/F gauge range with the pump on the ground. Let the FLS float hang for empty, then flip it up by hand for full. Confirm beforehand that the float does not hit the top of the tank. 1/2 - 1" below the top is fine.

    Once the pump and tank are installed with all wiring connected, power up the instruments. Add one gallon of fuel and note the gauge reading. Continue to do this at one gallon intervals. Make a small spreadsheet with gallons in one column, fuel level reading in the other. Make a business card size laminated sheet that can be put in the ashtray or???? for reference. It may not be super accurate at the full range due to extra fuel above the float, but near empty is very accurate.

    Why go through all that?

    The shape of our tanks means that the bulk of the fuel is above the 1/2 tank height level. For my Camaro tank, 9/16 on the gauge means 5 gallons left in an 18 gallon tank. The first 13 gallons burned takes a long time, but the last goes pretty quick. I don't mind it this way as long as long as the actual amount in the tank is known. On long drives in the middle of nowhere at night (One Lap of America) we consider 1/2 gauge reading our empty point since it leaves us with an 80-100 mile reserve. With nearly a 300 mile range it's time to stretch our legs anyway.
    VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

  11. #451
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Posts
    850
    Quote Originally Posted by CarlC View Post
    The shape of our tanks means that the bulk of the fuel is above the 1/2 tank height level. For my Camaro tank, 9/16 on the gauge means 5 gallons left in an 18 gallon tank. The first 13 gallons burned takes a long time, but the last goes pretty quick. I don't mind it this way as long as long as the actual amount in the tank is known. On long drives in the middle of nowhere at night (One Lap of America) we consider 1/2 gauge reading our empty point since it leaves us with an 80-100 mile reserve. With nearly a 300 mile range it's time to stretch our legs anyway.
    Freaking amazing. I have been wondering for the last year why my gas guage doesn't read correctly. I figured it was set to the wrong ohm setting because it does exactly what you just described Carl! Burried in F forever.... Slowly droops to 1/2, then BAM, E. Makes so much sense!
    A.K.A: That bald guy
    Find me on Facebook or my personal website.

    - 67 Camaro: Current Project Car

  12. #452
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,572
    Country Flag: United States
    Thanks Carl, that is a great suggestion! I'm definitely going to do that.

    Haven't touched the car in a few weeks, been busy getting the house prepped for winter and cutting/splitting/stacking firewood. I had some time in the garage, and wanted to clear off my workbench first. I put up some shelves and signs that I have been meaning to put up for a while now. What I started with.



    And after my signs and shelves were up. I had a bunch of signs from my last house, but haven't taken the time to hang them up. I have a few upper cabinets that I want to hang up too no the other side of the garage too.





    Once the bench was cleared off, I finished up one of the little projects I have been working on. I wanted a clean place to house the two programming buttons for the Dakota Digital gauges, but wanted them to be out of sight. I figured the ash tray would be the best spot for them. I bent up this little bracket that bolted through the little hole in the tray and used a tapered screw. Worked great and was super solid. I used a piece of 14 gauge stainless scrap I had in my metal pile.







    Now I need to take it back apart and paint the inside of the ash tray as well as my new bracket and screw. I'll paint it a satin black so hopefully it will all disappear if/when I open it. I also left room in case I ever wanted to add other switches.

    I also finished up my wiper arm repair. I had the original wiper arms from my car, and wanted to use them it was missing the spring and clip. My Pa had several other arms and we found the parts to rob so we could get mine functioning again.



    All for now, but I'm hoping to slowly start reassembling the cowl piece so I can fit the hood! I haven't seen the car together yet with all the body panels. I cleaned up the hood hinges a while ago, just need to spray them with some satin paint and I'll be all set to put the hood back on. I need to have the hood on in order to set the gaps for the cowl piece. Then I can button down the front for good. Good thing is I can take my time since it's a solid 5 months until I can drive it again...

    Cheers,
    Ryan


    1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  13. #453
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    99
    What part of upstate NY?

    You may have mentioned that in an earlier post. I'm out in Buffalo in the middle of a 76 Trans Am build myself. I know some people consider Buffalo 'Upstate NY' for some reason.

    Keep the updates coming.

    Off tangent question though. Did you go with a T-56 for your 76? I only as because I purchased the T-56 hump panel (from Holley) specifically for a 2nd gen Ls7/T-56 conversion. Fingers crossed it'll provide the clearance it solicited. Curious if the stock tunnel was 'big' enough of if you had to cut a new tunnel - thought process being that I've heard guys getting away with the factory tunnel; which if that's the case surely my hump panel conversion should definitely work.



    Thanks,
    Andrew

  14. #454
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,572
    Country Flag: United States
    Hey man,

    I'm in the middle between Ithaca and Binghamton in a small town. Buffalo is about a 3 hour drive from me. Yes, I was able to fit the LS1/T56 combo into my car without modifying the tunnel at all. I believe that the new Holley mounts actually lower the motor a little further than mine so you would have even better clearance. I used some of the Dirty Dingo adjustable mounts for the stock clamshells. Then I flipped the stock trans crossmember and re-welded the mount. There are definitely much better options out there now though.


    1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  15. #455
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    99
    Awesome. Thanks for the insight and great build.

    Keep warm this winter man !

  16. #456
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,572
    Country Flag: United States
    It's been a little while since I've had a meaningful car post, but I finally got the motivation to do some work on the car again. My wife went to bed early on Friday night and I decided it was time to tear apart my rear end again. I recently picked up a pair of brand new GM LH backing plates for the LS1 rear brakes. I already had the LS1 rear brakes on the car, but the passenger side caliper and shock were too close for comfort. It kinda felt wrong because it seems like I just got it all buttoned up, but I should have just done it right the first time. Live and learn. Started with the Driver's side.



    Now because I'm using the two LH assemblies it causes the ebrake levers to pull from a different direction, so to fix that you simply need to remove the lever assembly and swap it 180*. That way both assemblies will pull towards the front. What I started with.





    In order to make the assembly pull towards the front you simply pull both sliders out, pull the lever out, flip it 180*, reinstall the lever and reinstall the sliders on the opposite sides. Then you re-install the parts in the reverse order they were disassembled. It was really that easy and took no more than 5 mins. The only real downside is that you loose the locking adjuster, but for the amount I drive the car, it shouldn't be an issue.

    Front pull conversion finished. It's also worth noting that I don't need to do this with the passenger side since swapping sides, it will pull from the front since the sides are not mirrored any longer.





    Picture of the passenger side with the caliper now staggered away from the shock. Much safer now.



    The other thing that I picked up with the backing plates were these slick little brackets that will allow me to use my stock ebrake cables. I picked them up from a guy here on pro-touring.com, but I believe these were actually made by the guy that did the write-up here: https://www.camaros.net/forums/16-br...-pictures.html





    I also picked up some very lightly used caliper brackets, so I cleaned them up and painted the same satin black as the calipers.





    Then the driver's side was all re-installed and ready to go back together. I didn't take any pictures as it doesn't look any different than before. At this point the only thing that I need to do to finish up this swap is a new LH brake caliper. I bought a used LH C5 caliper that is on it's way. One I clean it up and paint it satin black, I'll swap the brakes back over and the rear brakes are done. Then I can focus on getting the e-brakes functional.



    I called it quits on Friday night and had some more time again on Saturday to attempt the other bigger project that's been on my mind. Ever since I first installed those DSE front springs, I was unhappy how much it lifted the front of the car. Come to find out the DSE springs are meant to work with their own lower control arms that have a ~2" drop pocket, which is why their 2" lowering springs ended up raising my ride height. After messaging with their customer service, which was excellent by the way, they informed me that with their springs 1/4 coil equals 1/2" of drop. After measuring the car and deciding where I wanted the drop to end up, wanted to cut 1 1/4 coils off to give me a 2.5" drop. I cut it a little moderately in the hopes that the springs will settle and potentially give me more like a 3" drop.

    Before I cut anything:



    Here we go again...





    MUCH BETTER!



    This much closer to what I was expecting with a drop spring.







    Before I cut anything I took some measurements from the only place that I could really find a consistency. I measured from the top of the wheel arch to the top of the rim. The DSE calculation was nearly spot on. I'm hoping that once the hood is bolted down and the springs settle slightly that it will give it a little more rake.



    Overall lots of progress this weekend and now that these two projects are done, for me it's just a bunch of small projects now.

    Cheers,
    Ryan


    1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  17. #457
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    36
    Thanks for the pictures on the ebrake change.
    The lower front end looks much better!

  18. #458
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,572
    Country Flag: United States
    Another weekend and I made some more significant progress. I really wanted to get my hood installed on the car so that a kid or animal didn't damage it from sitting on the floor. My Dad and Father-in-law have been busy recently and I was anxious, so I made the decision to just do it myself. It was definitely sketchy, but I grabbed as many clean blankets and towels I could find and padded my cowl area. I went in from the driver side and let the hood corner rest on the cowl. Once I got the first bolt in the hinge, I was good to go. I took my time and got the hood in a good spot where I am ok with the gaps. I think the hood was tweaked slightly by laying on the floor of my basement, so I'm going to see if I can tweak it a little to fit the crown a little better.







    While I was setting the gaps on the hood, I was also setting the gaps on the cowl panel. I also had to shim the cowl on both ends to match the height of the fender. After I removed the tape and locked the panel down for good, it looked much better.





    Then a few shots of the engine bay. It's almost complete, just need to finish up a little wiring and finalize the CAI.







    While I was working on fitting the hood and cowl, I was also cleaning and painting up some parts. I finally received my LH C5 caliper to finish off my rear brakes. It was really clean as is, but I wiped it down and put a fresh coat of the Semi-Gloss heat paint to match the other calipers. It turned out great.





    The other piece was my ebrake petal assembly, just basically scuffed and shot with a Semi-Gloss. It's flatter than it looks in the picture.



    Then on Saturday afternoon when my son was napping and wife was busy, it was time finalize the rear brakes. I had been keeping the RH caliper on there until I was ready to swap them over. Then I quickly swapped them over to reduce the amount of fluid loss. Looks great and I was able to bend the brake lines back to where they were originally. I had to re-route and bend the lines slightly when I had the RH side installed to avoid hitting the shock. So that makes me happy.

    [/url]



    As I was working along, I was taking some inventory of what I have on my car and what I still need and got the itch to install the side mirror and marker lights. This is the fun part! Just bolt it on and step back! So much easier than cleaning up and painting parts.



    Before someone says it, I know they are Nova front marker lights. I like the amber color.





    All the progress for now.

    Ryan


    1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  19. #459
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Posts
    62
    Amazing build thread, read it start to finish in one sitting haha.

    Been itching lately to get work done my my 67, but after reading this, I'm contemplating taking a week or two vacation time off work haha. (Too bad im at some major fabrication parts of the rear end subframe mount building and im in Alaska)

    Damn non-heated shop...
    T.O.
    1967 Camaro - "Herja"

  20. #460
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Hamilton, NJ
    Posts
    4,216
    Country Flag: Swaziland
    Love it, keep it up
    Scott from NJ.

    Vent Windows Forever! ... My junk, featuring the Red Dragon ... NastyZ28 ... NJ Camaros & Firebirds

    Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
    I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

Page 23 of 27 FirstFirst ... 13 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 LastLast