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    Page 11 of 41 FirstFirst ... 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 21 ... LastLast
    Results 201 to 220 of 808
    1. #201
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Wayne, I appreciate it. I'm using Flickr to host the pictures. I've been happy with them so far, and it is very easy to upload right from my phone using their app.



      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD


    2. #202
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      More progress this week, but not very exciting. I was able to get my fuel lines ran next to my brake lines. It took me longer than I thought, because I had to re-bend the brake line where it wrapped around the leaf spring mount so that it put the fuel line on the right side. Otherwise I was going to have it cross which I didn't like. I ended up running the Nylon lines for a few reasons; I have used them in the past with great results, non corrosive, and very easy to work with. I used the caulk gun method to press the fittings into the Nylon lines then, I used some stainless steel fuel/brake line clips from right stuff to drill and tap the holes to mount. Glad I did that this time around. Very happy with the results. Started at the tank and worked towards the fuel rail.













      And to the fuel rail. I left the fuel line a little long because I'm not sure where I want the final placement of the fuel line in the engine bay.



      Next, I wanted to put the factory wiring harness back in to see what I was up against. Surprisingly, the interior harness looked almost new. Only wire that I saw cut was one for the radio.



      Before I put in the ignition and headlight switches, I cleaned off the primer over spray with some reducer. Came off really easily.





      I also forgot to post this, but here is the fully modified and painted clutch pedal assembly. It was in the other pictures too, but I cleaned up and painted the master cylinder and booster and bolted them down for final.



      Not as much progress as I was hoping, but I forget how time consuming sorting out and tracing wires can be. Luckily there aren't that may circuits that I need to worry about in the 1968.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    3. #203
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      The wife went to bed early last night so I got some solid time in the garage. With all of the little projects that keep my side-tracked, I decided to tackle the wiring because that has been a concern of mine. Especially on how to integrate my LS wiring into the stock harness. I'm having a difficult time deciding where I would like to place the ECU. With wiring, there isn't much to show in pictures, but I spent a ton of time routing wires and testing all of my connections to make sure that I wouldn't have any surprises and I was very pleased that all the components that I tested have worked perfectly.

      It's alive!



      When I did the LS swap on my Trans Am I never finished my neutral safety switch and it always bothered me, so I wanted to make sure that this was done correctly on the Camaro. Now, this to me was really cool. I knew from the beginning that I wanted to use a relay to trigger, but when I was looking at how to hook it up to my dash wiring I noticed that the terminals on the stock connector were similar to the relay wiring terminals. I de-pinned the connector and as luck would have it the terminals were almost identical. I swapped them over, soldered one lead to the switched 12v+ on my clutch switch, the other to fused 12v+, and grounded the relay. I tested it and it works perfectly. And yes, I did bump the motor over just to see if it worked.





      I'm very happy with where the wiring is at the moment. If I can make a decision on where I want to place the ECU, I can then finalize the LS wiring and will be very close to firing the motor in the car! So pumped!


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    4. #204
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Hat Trick Triple update week! I have been so excited to get this car back together and running I went out again last night to finish up some loose ends. I started off first by doing the final fit and finish for the reverse lights for my RS conversion. I scoured the internet to find the "correct" placement for the holes in the trunk so that I could get it as close to OEM as possible. It took me a while to get the holes in the inner structure right so the lights were centered and level. I also had to work on getting the lights functional as there was some corrosion on the inner contacts.

      It was hard to get a good picture as it was so dark. Great shot of my RS gas cap too! Love that look.





      I know that the RS stuff wasn't needed to fire up the motor, but is wiring related and I easily get side tracked. Now onto the more important task of figuring out where to mount my ECU. My previous LS swap I wanted to have the ECU inside the cabin for fear of it getting wet and damaging it. I was thinking about where to mount on this swap and since there is much less room in the cabin of the first gen cars I was thinking about the engine bay since they are water resistant afterall. I searched around and found that the best place for me was to mount inside the fender behind the battery. My harness was JUST long enough to fit, and with the S10 mount I picked up a few weeks ago was an excellent fit.

      First I had to mock up the inner fender. I underestimated how much of a PITA getting the inner fender installed with the outer fender on the car was going to be. Word to anyone doing it in the future, put your inner fenders in first!



      Once I routed the harness through the fenderwell and put the ECU in that pocket, I knew right away it was home.



      The engine bay is really starting to come together. (Please ignore the primer/rusted inner fender. It won't stay like that long.)



      Once I found where I wanted to have the ECU mount, it was as simple as making a few small brackets using the existing holes in the core support. I had to drill one hole in the inner fender with access through the marker light. I just wanted to get the ECU mounted and wiring routed so I made some quick and dirty brackets. I think that once this gets blown apart for paint I am going to go back through and make some nicer brackets out of aluminum stock.







      The S10 bracket fit in there extremely well, and the mounting holes were all in the right spots to make quick and simple brackets.



      I also made sure to test fit the RS headlight before I could be certain it was final and there wasn't any issues with the door mechanism or the headlight connector. Great Success! (Best Borat voice)



      Once the battery is installed it will be barely noticeable. I am going to get install some of the gray connector caps for the blue and red ECU connectors and paint them black so it completely disappears. Stay tuned as there will very likely be an update from this weekend when I fire the motor installed for the first time.



      Ok, now where is my coffee haha.

      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    5. #205
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I worked like crazy to get the car ready to run, and fell just short. I could have easily twisted a few wires together and had it running, but as I started to do that I asked myself why? The more I thought about it, I would just have to take it back apart and re-wire it after I was done, so I figured I would just do it right the first time. Now that I had my ECU location decided, I had to make a decision on where to cut a whole in the firewall for the wires that were coming in from the ECU. The fuse bulkhead was something I wanted routed inside the cabin, along with the necessary wires for ECU data, and gauges. After a test fit of the heater box, I liked the location down low just to the side of the box. It will be hidden from sight, and shouldn't have to worry about debris coming through. Made the cut.



      Next challenge, was figuring out how to get this bulkhead through that tiny hole...





      Then, after enough brute force I managed to push the whole assembly through that tiny hole. (Just a little humor. I ended up de-pinning the bulkhead, pushed the wires through and re-assembled.)







      No issues with interference. Yes, I will be repairing the heater box.



      And this is how I left it for the day. I'm very pleased with how well everything has come together with the wiring harness.



      Also, while I had the garage doors open, I got a few pictures of the completed RS rear conversion.



      I am down to about 6 wires that need to be connected and I am all set to do the test fire in the car. I first have to get my OBD2 port hooked up so that I can flash the updated tune on the car so that it can run properly. Once I get the motor running with the coolant system hooked up, the only thing left before it can move and stop under it's own power is bleeding the brakes and cutting my driveshaft to length! And maybe a full exhaust haha.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    6. #206
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I had a few updates over the past week. My wife was in NYC at a concert with her Dad and sisters, so I took my son to spend some time with his grandma and I got to work. I am continuing to get closer to firing up the motor, but still not quite there yet. The biggest thing that I wanted to tackle was getting some pipes on the car so that I wasn't shooting flames out of the bottom of the car. Also, so I could mount my oxygen sensor bungs. Please keep in mind that this is my budget exhaust, so I am using extra pieces from my other projects.

      Since I don't have a welding table, I rigged up my own. I had never tried it before, but it worked out incredibly well. I had a leftover piece of stainless from another project and put it on my wheel stands. Grounded the welding lead to that and bingo, temporary welding table.



      2.5" V-Band to 3" reducer leftover from my 76 LS1 swap.



      Ugly, but will clean up nicely with a grinder. My last attempts at welding exhaust, but thankfully I have gotten better at butt welding.







      Didn't get any pictures of the other side during the fabrication, but have a final installation. I love how they are routed up nice and tight to my trans crossmember. Right through the pockets I made. The hard part is done, now I need to connect the tail pipes, place the mufflers and add an H-pipe crossover.





      Moving on to the engine compartment, I wanted to get a test fit for my radiator and see if any of the hoses I have been collecting will work. Just wanted to share something that may help others in the future. I grabbed my brand new radiator that has been sitting around in dry storage for a while, and noticed an awful smell. Looked in the lower coolant pipe and a rodent had decided to lay to rest inside. Lucky enough, I grabbed my shop vac and it came out in one piece, but the smell was still there. Moral of the story, throw some tape or a rag in the ports!



      Gross! After that was taken care of I installed the radiator and the hoses that I have will work nicely. I need some help from the first gen guru's though, does this look right? The radiator cap is so close when the hood is closed, that I cannot get a finger over it. Just want to make sure it is in the right location.







      Few other small updates. I finally got the stainless bolts I ordered online. I ordered some 3/4" spacers and M10-1.5 x 140mm bolts and the first ones were 40mm. Anyway, finally got them installed and I am very happy with the fitment. No need to cut the frame now! I need to get an fbody alternator or figure out how to move the 12v stud as it is too close for comfort. Alignment is excellent!





      The other update was finding the right yoke straps. Nothing that I had was the same, so I measured and looked on Rock Auto and found that the correct straps I needed for my stock 12 bolt yoke were the same for the K20 trucks.

      AC Delco part # for those interested







      I am getting dangerously close to firing up the motor now. I need to wire up my OBD2 connector, CEL, change oxygen sensor plugs to LS1 and flash the computer with the updated tune. I also need to cut and route radiator hoses, fill trans with fluid, fill diff with fluid, fill and bleed brakes and cut driveshaft. Once those things are done, I believe I will be able to start and move the car under it's own power! So close I can almost taste it.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    7. #207
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I couldn't sleep one night a few days ago and sneaked into the garage to get some more wiring bits finished up. Among other things, I wired in my OBDII port and was able to flash the start-up tune into the car so that I can fire it up very shortly. There seems to be something that keeps delaying me from actually firing it off. I guess this time around I want it to be more finished so that I can let it run for as long as I want rather than just 20 seconds. I love seeing the old photos of cars with a laptop in them for tuning. 8)



      Next up was working on my temporary driveshaft. I don't feel too bad cutting up the stock driveshaft that came out of my car, so I thought it would be a good time to try out something new. I had read online about people making their own custom driveshafts by cutting the welds and welding them back together. I figured what is the worst that could happen. I don't plan on taking this down the road, but more as a trial and error for my final driveshaft. I want to get that one cut and done once. I took a ton of measurements and wrote them all down on paper. Once I determined the amount that needs to be removed, I made my first cut. I cut along the edge of the weld closest to the tube side. I didn't have to go very deep with my grinder and just took my time and kept cutting until I could see where the two were separating. I kept tapping with a hammer and it popped right off.

      I made sure to mark the center-line of where the u-joint is on the yoke. It also happened to run right center of where the weight was. I will keep it all the same and re-attach the weight where it was.





      I looked inside and there is a cardboard tube inside? Wonder why that was put there?



      Marked and cut the section off that I needed and cut a little less just to be safe.





      Once I tapped the yoke in it was time for a test fit. At first glance it appears that the driveshaft is too long as I only have about 3/4" sticking out of the tailshaft. From what I have read, anywhere from 1.25" - 1.5" is the sweet spot. I should have gone with my original cut and took off the extra and I would have been right on the money.





      Just need a little more time to trim the last bit off then I can clean up the yoke and prep it for welding. Once the driveshaft is welded and I get a new u-joint for the rear, I just need to fill up the fluids, bleed the brakes and crank over the engine. Very close now.

      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    8. #208
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Well this weekend marked a huge step forward in my build. I worked like crazy to make sure that everything was in order to finally turn the key on this project. First thing I wanted to do was finish up my driveshaft shortening. My father-in-law volunteered to turn the driveshaft while I welded it to get as consistent of a bead of weld as possible to minimize balancing efforts. It turned out great. I love that little Miller 135.







      And with a brand new Spicer 1310 u-joint. I only painted the welds because I didn't want to cover up my mark where the weigh should be. I'm waiting to see if I can feel a vibration before I weld on the weight.



      I also bought a bunch of parts to help further along the project. You have to love the ebay bargains. 125 grommets for $7.99





      I went through all of the wiring again, topped off fluids and set-up my laptop to log the first startup. And finally, after a lot of work I was finally able to hear it run! The video evidence!



      The best part was there were no leaks and everything sounded tight! I was very happy when the motor hit it's target idle almost immediately. I still need to go through the data and make sure that the current tune-up where it needs to be. I got 4 DTC's all of which were related to not having the electric fans hooked up yet. I have it setup currently for stock 2 fan setup, but will only run one for the time being, so I have to change that.

      Then yesterday, I finally bought the parts to temporarily delete my power steering. Basically a 54" belt, 6 rib idler pulley and .100" washer. My son was asleep by the time I got the time to test fit the parts altogether so I haven't had the chance to test it with the water pump and alternator running yet. You can also see the 3/4" spacers that I used between the alternator bracket. It was hard to get a picture with the radiator in the way, but here it is.





      If I can get someone to give me a hand this week to bleed my brakes and clutch I can actually move the car under it's own power.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    9. #209
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: United States
      I love seeing progress on this thread and am glad to see you finally get the motor started. It won't be much longer now and you'll get the excitement of finally driving it after putting in all of that hard work!

    10. #210
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks I am stoked to have this car running! I started the car again last night with the belt on to check a few things and the good news is the alternator is charging up to 14.5v and the water pump is circulating fluid nicely. I logged this start-up as well and it started to stumble a little when it was warm, but not sure if it was just running out of gas. Need to check that.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    11. #211
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Finally received my new Goodmark Driver's side rocker panel. I was a little nervous when I first received it as UPS wasn't kind to the box. Thankfully the rocker panel was packaged really well and wasn't damaged.







      I'm hoping to get both rocker panels and the passenger side outer wheel house installed, welded and seam sealed before it's too cold to keep the garage doors open. I found that I can do some welding in the garage as long as I keep the doors open for about an hour afterwards. If I do it with the doors shut I'm afraid that the smell will penetrate into the house.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    12. #212
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      To start this update off, I am posting a semi-car related garage update. I have been getting some flak from my better half to keep the garage a little cleaner and she is right, it has slowly kept expanding. Well on Friday I found a 10+ ft. work bench on Craigslist for cheaper than I could build one and after I brought it home cleaned up.

      When I first brought it home, with my little helper who insisted on trying it out.



      Before:



      After:



      It helps to keep the peace and also helps me to be more organized. Win-Win.

      Now to the car updates. I have been putting off the metal work on the car for one reason or another, but finally made the decision to start. I bought a new rocker panel as the one that was on there by a previous repair didn't fit well at all. I assumed it was just a poor installation without the test fit of the door, but I actually determined that it was actually a bad stamping! Kinda scary actually because it was off by about 1/2-3/4" in some places.

      I started by removing the door:





      Cut out the old rocker and made the first test fit:



      I got busy working and forgot to take pictures as I was going, but here is the final product. The fit and finish on the Goodmark metal was top notch. Very pleased with how it fit together.





      The gaps turned out great. They are all right within specs. I had to get creative on the lower quarter panel as someone decided to cut off the bottom piece that usually rolls in and butts up with the rocker. I made a short L shaped bracket that runs the full length of the rocker and will allow me to weld directly to the outer skin. Not pretty, but functional.







      Very pleased with the overall body lines and gaps on the driver's side!





      I also have some parts updates. I have been putting off buying one of the Holley oil pans for a while due to having other priorities for the car. I was getting close to needing one when I heard that Holley was releasing a revised version of the 302-2 pan which is designed for my car. The Holley 302-3 pan is slightly different from the previous version as it allows for up to a 4" stroke crank, and also has some neat little 1/2" ports on both sides for a turbo drain back. Which is awesome for me as I plan to fabricate a turbo kit for the car over the next few years. At that point, I would literally just have to take the plugs and thread in an AN fitting. Win!

      I really haven't bought that many new parts for this car, so this is a very exciting day!









      I had read in the past that some of the Holley pans came with some machining flakes in the ports and pan. I wanted to check mine out of the box to see what mine looked like and it was spotless. I didn't see anything even close. Very pleased.





      I also picked up a mega fuse and holder for a junction to power the car directly from the battery.





      Thanks,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    13. #213
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Location
      Burlington KY
      Posts
      357
      Country Flag: United States
      coming along nicely! My car looks about like yours and once i got it driving ive been "shaking it down" for a few weeks. Just too much fun to stop. With winter coming i guess i'll get back to the sanding and metal work. :(
      "Racing is life. Everything else is just, waiting"

    14. #214
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Been a few weeks since I have had any significant progress, but now I have something worthy of posting. I have been working diligently to keep plugging away at all of the little things that tend to eat up a lot of my time. This post kinda bounces around so bear with me.

      My dad upgraded to a much larger bead blaster, so I happily took his old bench-top unit. Once I got it ready to plug some air to it, I tossed my diff cover in. It had some pitting on the inside and it polished up just fine.



      Then, I installed it with a fresh gasket and silicone. Once that set overnight, I filled with Lucas oil and my friction modifier. ( I know it is Ford, but it had great reviews)



      I also found a heater delete coolant hose, Dayco 87629, that has the correct ID sizes for the LS motors.



      I also installed my MegaFuse junction box. Looks great and I think it is a really clean way to allow for future upgrades.



      Not the prettiest solution to a throttle cable, but works and didn't cost me a dime. The motor I bought came with this sort of half throttle cable with an aluminum rivet/clamp/thing. I used my old broken cable and slipped it through the existing one and boom, now I have a functioning throttle cable. I have future plans for cruise control, so this will be swapped out when that time comes.



      I needed to do was bleed my brakes now that the whole system is complete. I didn't bother to take pictures, but I bought a new hardware kit for my LS1 rear brakes to finish them. I got the car on all fours, and had my wife give me a hand. I thought it was pretty good, I only had one leaky fitting and it was one of the first ones that I flared. Luckily with the NiCopp lines, they are soft enough that if you loosen/tighten them enough they sealed up no problem.



      And the moment I have been waiting for since I bought the car almost two years ago, the first test drive. xboost, I'm right behind you!

      I backed it out like this:



      Then I backed it in like this:





      It really felt amazing getting behind the wheel and having it move under it's own power. Sure I have A LOT of work left to do, but it has sure come a long way since I first got it. I feel like this is a huge milestone in any build and I am glad that I made it!

      Now, changing gears (sorry for the bad pun) I have been playing around with my interior as I have been thinking that the Medium Blue interior is just a lot of blue. I am curious to know some feedback on what you all think about possibly keeping the standard black dash, upper and lower, but using some of the blue pieces. I am really digging it. I would use a black carpet, but the headliner, seats and console (if I run one) would be blue.





      I also scored this real SS hood on CL for cheap. Not sure exactly what I am going to do with it, but for $40 bucks I thought it was a good price.



      Thanks for looking.

      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    15. #215
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Posts
      42
      Looks Great Ryan!

    16. #216
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      Ryan I just realized I never posted how happy I was for you when you got the motor running sounds great. The car is looking great. It must have felt sweet to take it out, even to just turn it around. Oh yeah I have some BMW wheels that look like those for my car. Nice job.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    17. #217
      Join Date
      Jun 2008
      Location
      Foxboro, MA
      Posts
      91
      Country Flag: United States
      Congrats!
      1968 Firebird
      2004 SRT-4
      2008 Ram

    18. #218
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I appreciate all of the feedback. I think I am pretty set on going with the black and blue two tone interior. I think it has a really nice contrast and the bonus is I don't have to re-paint the dash!

      It really isn't in my budget to get the bigger ticket items, but I finally sold the built LS1 that I had and pulled the trigger on the VHX gauges from Dakota Digital. It was a very close call for me between the New Vintage USA, SpeedHut, and Dakota. I really like the New Vintage and they are a little cheaper with similar options but in addition to the gauges you have to also buy their kit to install them to the stock bezel. By the time you buy that it was close to the price of the Dakota gauges. I used Speedhut gauges on my last build and they performed flawlessly and I LOVED the progressive shift light on the Revolution Tach, but they were the most expensive of the three and I would need a custom bezel. I spent a lot of time comparing different aftermarket gauge options and what sold me was that it had the functionality of a newer car with things like integrated cruise control and CEL lights. The other thing was the options for expand-ability. I can add things like a Compass/Outside Temp or Boost which can be displayed on the LCD screen. For me, those options were what sold me.

      Box that showed up on my door step.



      Old gauges. (I'm debating on using the original odometer reading of 12,493. I can only do it within the first 100 miles)



      All my parts spread out on the bench





      I wasn't intending on installing them last night, but one thing lead to another and I did. I felt like a kid with a new toy! I guess we never really grow up. I left the protective film on until final install, but here they are mocked up. I'm in love!





      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    19. #219
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,193
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice addition of parts, Ryan. One thing I found annoying with the VHX, and I mentioned it to the DD guys, is the reflections off the screens. On sunny days, depending on the angle, I'd see myself on the instrument panel when looking at the guages.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap

    20. #220
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      LA - Lower Alabama
      Posts
      560
      I'm loving this build! Great progress!

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