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    Results 101 to 120 of 149
    1. #101
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      So here is an update for all of my 2 followers lol. So, we mounted the battery box. The box is bolted down, and the lid to the box has the strap on just to hold the lid down. 2 reasons for this, 1) if I get into a car accident the battery box wont tip over 2) the lid needs to be strapped down so if an accident occurs the battery doesnt flip onto the gas tank and start welding a hole into it...

      Next, the progress on the headers, yes I understand, they are not long tubes, but we're dealing with really limited room. They are able to be bolted on and off with the engine in the car. They open into a larger 3 inch pipe to provide more flow. Ideally each port is supposed to be equal length but in this case its just not possible.

      Finally, you can see the progress of the engine compartment. Two vertical pillars welded on top to the cross member and bolted on the bottom. Then two panels, one on each side, bolt on an off. So, basically the whole front end comes off with a few bolts just in case we need to pull the engine.
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    2. #102
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Location
      Winchester, KY
      Posts
      99
      Country Flag: United States
      Spent some time looking over your 'original' idea and your getting somewhere I see, not an easy task as you saw my 68 ragtop job..I'm plugging away like you!

    3. #103
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      Well the progress has been slow due to the pandemic. Its hard to try to work on it when its currently in my dad's garage and not mine. Social distancing has made it so we can't pull the engine out and finish this stuff. But progress, although little, is progress. Mocking up the cooling system is now complete. Although these aren't the most up to date photos. Another great accomplishment is the antisway bar. Had to make some brackets for it but it is mounted. Its rear facing instead of front. Just too much stuff with the power rack, k member, and tie rod ends to try to put it front facing. And finally, with the biggest news yet, I finally purchased the EFI and trans controller. Holley performance supplied the terminator kit. It allows for the cams to be utilized and not locked out like other kits. Not like that's better or worse then other kits but for my application it will be using the engines full design. Its cool too because it controls the transmission. And it works with my holley fuel pump. So now... When something breaks or doesn't work, there will be no pointing fingers at which company is to blame because its all holley's products. The wiring is underway. And the headers are now getting their finishing touches.
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    4. #104
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      You have more than 2 followers, I'm sure. lol. I remember seeing this after your initial post, and a couple times after that, but sometimes builds get knocked down a page or two and you can't remember the name or user building it, and have to wait for it to pop up again. I forget where I set stuff down 5 minutes ago, much less a thread I read a couple months ago! lol.

      Where are you at in Michigan?

      Jay

    5. #105
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by JayinMI View Post
      You have more than 2 followers, I'm sure. lol. I remember seeing this after your initial post, and a couple times after that, but sometimes builds get knocked down a page or two and you can't remember the name or user building it, and have to wait for it to pop up again. I forget where I set stuff down 5 minutes ago, much less a thread I read a couple months ago! lol.

      Where are you at in Michigan?

      Jay
      Yeah, I appreciate that, it's true, there are a lot of golden threads on here that I followed for a while and people just stopped posting so I eventually forgot about them. There was this one guy who did this awesome 68 coupe, really cool metal work, but it stopped like a year or 2 ago, so much potential there too. I live in the southwest Michigan area around Kalamazoo county.

    6. #106
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      I might as well take this time to say that after the coyote is in and running I'll be taking some time to redo the front nose and rear valance. I've learned a lot over the last 6 - 9 months that I feel like I can make them better. The nose is close, but the lines are wrong. Plus it kinda got cracked from someone leaning on it at a car show, which I had anticipated. The valance bothers me more and more when I look at it. The lines are not straight. I think I should have taken the time to make a metal one vs a fiberglass and plastic one. The only thing is the gas tank, it sits kind of low. I wonder if I could raise it up a little.

    7. #107
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      The blue wire goes to the red wire and the red wire goes to the green wire and green wire goes to the orange wire... So here's the thing, there are a lot of wires, but thankfully its pretty straightforward plug and play. What could go wrong? It's a little intimidating seeing that there is not a vast wealth of people out there posting about a Holley EFI coyote set-up. But I think their tech support guys are pretty reasonable so hopefully we can make some progress on it. I made a bracket for the accelerator pedal. That was incredibly frustrating. It took a long time to get the angle right and the correct height of the pedal compared to the brake pedal. I had to tear out some of the carpet and sound deadener. It's just tack welded in right now. I wanted to make sure it was exactly where I wanted it to be. All I need now is a mass airflow sensor and to make the cold air intake. Its getting prepped for paint and engine compartment cleanup. Everything was kind of thrown in there to make sure it fit and was functional but now that it works I should be able to make things look tidy and clean.
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    8. #108
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      compton IL
      Posts
      159
      Country Flag: United States
      You have done a whole lot of work on this car. Your fiberglass work looks good, cudos for building something different !
      1965 mustang fastback. a pro-touring concoction of oem, race & custom fab...build thread here https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...Racesteed-quot
      1975 harley ironhead custom long chopper. home built dream machine. fast, loud & beautiful

    9. #109
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Chicago suburbia
      Posts
      228
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice project! No offense to your welding, but it looks like you cut through the header company's nameplate and welded it straight on to the merge tubing. I'd have those headers tested for leaks and pressure handling before you fire it up.
      '69 Charger TT Viper project - SOLD
      '65 Mustang Shelby clone project "almost done"

    10. #110
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bikefreak600 View Post
      You have done a whole lot of work on this car. Your fiberglass work looks good, cudos for building something different !
      Hey thanks! I'm glad to hear someone likes it! Its been a bit of a struggle because Im learning everything as I do it. The fiberglass is in the right direction I want to go but I for sure am going to redo a lot of it. Starting once the car is driveable again I am going to redo the rear valance then nose cone. Just gotta fix the lines, some things are crooked so I want to do it right.

    11. #111
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Cop Magnet View Post
      Nice project! No offense to your welding, but it looks like you cut through the header company's nameplate and welded it straight on to the merge tubing. I'd have those headers tested for leaks and pressure handling before you fire it up.
      I totally agree! I have had a lot of trouble with the welder. And making headers that fit in that space was frustrating. But I did do 2 test to ensure good seal, plugged everything up and filled them with water and found holes and welded them. Then plugged the headers up again and pumped air in them and hooked a pressure gauge up. And you're right, there were a lot of very small leaks! But they are plugged now. It was a lot of hunting, but hopefully we found all of them. Don't want to suck in all that O2 on start up, should make for a loud boom lol

    12. #112
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Posts
      362
      Country Flag: United States
      I just came across this thread. Great work so far. May be too late but it looks like you could gain a lot of room by using a traditional style coilover and top mount. Just a suggestion.
      My half a$$ed build thread.https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...elle-6-0-4L60E

      Tighten it till it strips & back it off a quarter turn.

    13. #113
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Alwhite00 View Post
      I just came across this thread. Great work so far. May be too late but it looks like you could gain a lot of room by using a traditional style coilover and top mount. Just a suggestion.
      I think you are right, but now that we're rounding turn 4 with the engine compartment its probably going to be one of those "I think we should have went that route..." sorta deals. All in all its different and it works so I'm happy so long as it continues to work lol. Nice chevelle by the way. The 66 and 67 are my favorite body styles

    14. #114
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      So this will be the bracket that will mount inside the glove compartment. It will be the command center. Its just a matter of mounting it correctly and making sure all the wires fit. I can use my center counsel for storage. Which I don't really keep anything in the car besides for registration and a couple odds and ends. I also painted the back side of the engine compartment panels and primed the front sides which will be orange. I'm hoping to paint this weekend. Which means I can put the engine back in for the final time. I still need a mass air flow sensor. Dang those things are like $80.... The project never ends.
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    15. #115
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Chesapeake, VA
      Posts
      605
      I just went back and reviewed this entire thread from the beginning. What a great project, filled with original thinking.

      I particularly like what you're doing with the front suspension. I get that the engine compartments in these cars are really tight, but I've never understood the popularity of doing an MII conversion on them. I'm unconvinced stock MII geometry gives any advantages over Falcon-chassis components. There's also constant debate about whether the stock frame rails are really stiff enough without support and load spreading through the fender aprons.


      Given the huge number of Falcon-chassis cars out there with very similar architecture I could see a kit which would allow you to cut the upper portion of the shock towers off to replace them with a hat and bracing structure much as you have done...though probably not as extensive.

      How much modification did the upper control arm need to clear the coilover springs?
      Cars are meant to be driven.

      John B

    16. #116
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Thatorange67 View Post
      So this will be the bracket that will mount inside the glove compartment. It will be the command center. Its just a matter of mounting it correctly and making sure all the wires fit. I can use my center counsel for storage. Which I don't really keep anything in the car besides for registration and a couple odds and ends. I also painted the back side of the engine compartment panels and primed the front sides which will be orange. I'm hoping to paint this weekend. Which means I can put the engine back in for the final time. I still need a mass air flow sensor. Dang those things are like $80.... The project never ends.
      Glad to see you using Holley EFI!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
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      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    17. #117
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by jaybee View Post
      I just went back and reviewed this entire thread from the beginning. What a great project, filled with original thinking.

      I particularly like what you're doing with the front suspension. I get that the engine compartments in these cars are really tight, but I've never understood the popularity of doing an MII conversion on them. I'm unconvinced stock MII geometry gives any advantages over Falcon-chassis components. There's also constant debate about whether the stock frame rails are really stiff enough without support and load spreading through the fender aprons.


      Given the huge number of Falcon-chassis cars out there with very similar architecture I could see a kit which would allow you to cut the upper portion of the shock towers off to replace them with a hat and bracing structure much as you have done...though probably not as extensive.

      How much modification did the upper control arm need to clear the coilover springs?
      Surprisingly the upper control arm did not need much modification. Really it only needed the whole to be enlarged about a half inch in diameter more cut out. We reinforced it too just in case. Thanks for the comment btw! Appreciate it!

      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Glad to see you using Holley EFI!

      Andrew
      So far the guys at Holley have been great. One of the harnesses was incorrect and they sent a new one the next day without hassle or charge

    18. #118
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      Well here's some progress pictures. Some progression from primer to paint to clear. Also I added little triangular pieces to the "shock towers" to box them in a little more and make them more complete.
      Attached Images Attached Images                      

    19. #119
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      So the engine is back in, hopefully permanently now. Bolts went in smoothly for the motor mounts. This is a picture of the engine compartment before the engine is in. Im pretty excited to see what everything looks like together, panels in, wiring and hoses all organized, and my engine all cleaned and dust free.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    20. #120
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      So more wiring loose ends today, fuel pump wired and complete, engine harness to ecu complete, and the accelerator pedal with its adapter plate is welded in. I will say that was one of the more challenging parts to weld that in, I couldn't hardly see where to weld and got burned by the welder a few times trying. But its done. I got the yoke.... The guy we worked with was a cool dude and basically gave it to us free, and by basically I mean he did actually tell us that we could just have it. Had the correct spare u-joints too... This build has been relatively cheap compared to other builds with coyotes. I'm not knocking them, they put good work into their builds, many to most are better than my build by a mile. But for a coyote build coming under $3500 bucks for coilovers, holley efi, and coyote plus 4R70W trans, Id say that's good. Its all about the labor put in and the juicy deals I stumbled upon.



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