4spd trans clutch...stock vs. spherical joint z-bar vs. hydraulic

[F-Body International]

Any experience with this? What are the positive/negative differences?

I've been looking at this for a while now and was curious to see if anyone else has had experience with both systems. I'm running a 4 speed trans. Here are the comparisons to make...


Stock (no bearings or hydraulic line).

Speed Direct RodLinks clutch linkage kit.
http://cmc.speeddirect.com/items.asp?Cc=RODLINKS&Bc=

American Powertrain HYDRAMAX clutch kit.
http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8521...-t5-lenco.html

[BonzoHansen]

I run the speed direct linkage in my 77Z. I like it, good feel, much better than stock setup

[TheJDMan]

Well, I built my own rod end links for my Z-bar clutch system. IMO, the rod end kit referenced above stops one step short of a complete rod end system. That said they are about the same price once I collected all the parts. I used 2 ea of 3/8" LH and RH teflon lined male rod ends, a couple of aluminum racing GoKart tie rod tubes and a circle track GM clutch fork instead of using the pointed rod style fork. Another advantage of using a rod end on the fork is that I no longer need the pedal return spring hooked to the fork to keep the rod point seated. Instead, I relocated my pedal return spring up under the dash.

Here is a link to the clutch fork I used. I should also mention that I am using a long style TOB "SKF N1086-SA" and a standard GM bell housing pivot ball.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...ork,37080.html

The 3/8" rod ends came from McMaster-Carr but Summit and Jegs also sell them. At the time I made my linkage, I was not aware anyone sold a rod end clutch linkage kit and because I formerly raced karts, I was well aware of the tie rods we used on racing karts. So I used kart tie rods because they are threaded LH and RH on each end which is necessary when making clutch adjustments and they come in a variety of lengths. I did need to shorten one tube but I made sure to trim off the RH threaded end because I have RH taps.

I have always run a Z-bar style clutch in Dust Off so going from the old factory links to the rod ends it was easy to feel the improvement in release quality easily equal to that of a hydraulic system. I have driven a lot of hydraulic clutch cars and I doubt anyone could tell the difference in pedal feel. Not to mention that a mechanical linkage is bulletproof, less expensive and is much easier to setup and maintain than any hydraulic system will ever be.

BTW, I have my headers out at the moment replacing gaskets which means I also have the Z-bar out of the car. I just threw the Z-bar back in and shot some pics without the header to block the view.

[F-Body International]

Very cool Steve! I didn't even know that type of clutch fork existed. This looks like a future low-budget upgrade many can do. The clutch fork you used looks like it could be adapted to the Speed Direct linkage.

[JodysTransmissions]

We have also used this style clutch fork Steve used and attached the heim joint on the top side of the fork.

[Rod]

I modified the Z bar to have less flex also, it has worked great for five years

[JodysTransmissions]

I deleted the double post

[TheJDMan]

I have no complaints about the clutch operation in the configuration shown in the pic, but since it is so easy to do I'm going to move the rod end up on top of the clutch fork like Jody described just to see what happens.

[TheJDMan]

OK, Just in case anyone is curious, I moved my fork rod end up on top of the clutch fork just to see what would happen. Immediately the clutch pedal got spongy and the release was not crisp. I then moved it back to the slot in the center of the clutch fork and as soon as I did the clutch feel was crisp and firm again. I suspect what was happening was that with the rod end mounted on top of the fork, it was causing the clutch fork to twist and press unevenly on the throw out bearing. I think this problem would probably be even more pronounced if someone was using the short style throw out bearing.

Again for reference, I'm using an "SKF N1086-SA" throw out bearing with this clutch fork from Speedway Motors.


https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...ork,37080.html

[Sleeper68]

I think the long vs. short release/throw out bearing is related only to the type of clutch one uses; i.e. raised diaphragm (proud of the pressure plate body) or flat diaphragm. The type of release fork (assuming it is a GM style fork) should not affect the length of the throwout bearing.

I think this problem would probably be even more pronounced if someone was using the short style throw out bearing.



Again for reference, I'm using an "SKF N1086-SA" throw out bearing with this clutch fork from Speedway Motors.

Steve,

What type of clutch are you running?