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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States

      Ryans 72 c10 build

      Hello everybody,
      This truck was given to me by a friend. It was taken apart about 9 years ago for restoration then they got side tracked by several other projects and it was left sitting in a field. There is a lot of rust however I see a lot of projects start off worse than mine and for free I'm not complaining.

      It will be a short bed once I'm done with it. Not trying to set any auto x or land speed records with it, #1 goal will be to just have fun.
      Suspension:
      2.5 spindles with 2" springs up front, 3" blocks with 4" springs out back
      I'm not sure which springs exactly yet or shocks and sway bars.
      pfab trailing arms

      Brakes:
      fronts - stock rotors with Wilwood D52 calipers
      rear - disc conversion with '92-'02 astro van rotors and Wilwood D52 calipers

      The engine build is already under way. It was an old 454 truck engine 1979-1982 if I remember right. It will be a 496 stroker on EFI with about 650 hp. Hydraulic roller cam, Dart pro-1 rectangle port heads.
      Trans- 400 turbo with gear vendors overdrive

      That's it for now, heres some pics.


      ~[URL=http://s544.photobucket.com/user/ryno1979/media/20150725_160851.jpg.html][/URL








    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2013
      Posts
      72
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks to be a pretty clean truck, which are getting hard to find these days!

      What are the plans for wheels and tires?

      I would recommend running a 6" rear spring with a 1" block to keep the axle closer to the trailing arms. We have a 2"/6" drop kit with shocks and sway bars, let me know if I can answer any questions for you.

      Jon Rasmussen
      Hotchkis Performance
      877-466-7655 ext. 224
      [email protected]

      Hotchkis Performance East
      704-660-3060

      Check out our Facebook page!


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,382
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Ryans C10 View Post
      ~[URL=http://s544.photobucket.com/user/ryno1979/media/20150725_160851.jpg.html][/URL
      I see you're a Ford man.

      Looking forward to the build. That gen is my favorite. Someday I'd like to build one as a daily driver.
      Red Forman: "The Mustang's front end is problematic; get yourself a Firebird."

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      El Segundo, CA
      Posts
      268
      Country Flag: United States
      650 hp and stock rotors? I'm not sure I'd be happy with that myself. Looks like a cool truck!

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Jon @ Hotchkis View Post
      Looks to be a pretty clean truck, which are getting hard to find these days!

      What are the plans for wheels and tires?

      I would recommend running a 6" rear spring with a 1" block to keep the axle closer to the trailing arms. We have a 2"/6" drop kit with shocks and sway bars, let me know if I can answer any questions for you.
      Its really not in that bad of shape, the pics do no justice but the bed is mostly gone and I have a parts truck with a half way decent bed I'll get new outer panels for. Then it needs floorboards, kick panels, cab supports, inner and outer rockers, cab corners, lower door skins and some adjoining sheet metal to the floor boards. The hood and fenders are in great shape.
      I really dont know what to do about wheels yet, I change my mind about 3 times per minute on that stuff. What would a suspension setup like that cost???

      Quote Originally Posted by 68Formula View Post
      I see you're a Ford man.

      Looking forward to the build. That gen is my favorite. Someday I'd like to build one as a daily driver.
      Haha thanks mine too!

      Quote Originally Posted by Dr G View Post
      650 hp and stock rotors? I'm not sure I'd be happy with that myself. Looks like a cool truck!
      Just a temporary thing since it has semi fresh vented heavy duty rotors already, if they dont perform up to par ill grab a better set for the track. What would you recommend?


      The truck is actually a C20, at some point it was converted to the 5 lug C10 front end. The ball joints were replaced at some point also so no grinding rivets for me

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      Quote Originally Posted by Dr G View Post
      650 hp and stock rotors? I'm not sure I'd be happy with that myself. Looks like a cool truck!
      D52s with stock 1.24" rotors have a pile of stopping power when matched to the system, not sure how well they will balance with Ryan's rear braking set-up. For his street use, it will be solid. I run almost the identical set-up on my truck, but I needed as much venting as I could fit in, keep in mind I'm doing this...

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5e6qlmlUSP4

      I'm going to be spending a lot of effort to upgrade my brake set-up, but not for braking force - I need to control heat better.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bovey View Post
      D52s with stock 1.24" rotors have a pile of stopping power when matched to the system, not sure how well they will balance with Ryan's rear braking set-up. For his street use, it will be solid. I run almost the identical set-up on my truck, but I needed as much venting as I could fit in, keep in mind I'm doing this...

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5e6qlmlUSP4

      I'm going to be spending a lot of effort to upgrade my brake set-up, but not for braking force - I need to control heat better.
      Thanks for the reply Mark! I must say, your build thread is going to be a huge inspiration for mine. Awesome truck!!! Almost makes me want to keep the long bed.... almost.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2013
      Posts
      72
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Ryans C10 View Post
      Its really not in that bad of shape, the pics do no justice but the bed is mostly gone and I have a parts truck with a half way decent bed I'll get new outer panels for. Then it needs floorboards, kick panels, cab supports, inner and outer rockers, cab corners, lower door skins and some adjoining sheet metal to the floor boards. The hood and fenders are in great shape.
      I really dont know what to do about wheels yet, I change my mind about 3 times per minute on that stuff. What would a suspension setup like that cost???
      Are you going to run a wood bed?

      Shoot me a PM and I can get you some pricing.

      Jon Rasmussen
      Hotchkis Performance
      877-466-7655 ext. 224
      [email protected]

      Hotchkis Performance East
      704-660-3060

      Check out our Facebook page!


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      Most likely yes. The wood bed kits look to be alot cheaper than the replacement steel pans, and they look amazing.

      I wish I had some progress to speak of, however the cab is coming off next week and going to the body shop. Then Ill start working on the frame and suspension.
      In the meantime, heres some more pics.





    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      I kind of let this die but there isn't enough traffic in the truck forum so im updating it lol. Alot of progress has been made on the truck and it has changed directions a few times.
      The big block is out and its getting a lq9 with a small cam and t56.
      I have alot more pics to upload later today.
      Attached Images Attached Images              

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      Heres some more pics.
      nolimit front and rear sway bars
      nolimit rear shock relocaters
      I built a nolimit inspired center brace but I feel like it needs more maybe in the rear section.
      9 inch rear with a yukon third member, detroit tru trac dif with 3.50 gears.
      AGR steering box.
      I relocated the lower ball joints 1 inch forward and outward .250" but I failed to get any good pics of the work..
      What are some good tie rod adjusters?
      Attached Images Attached Images                      

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      Im not to sure why some of the pics rotated? wierd..

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      Geting the DBW pedal mocked up.
      Is it better to host images somewhere else or is there a way to rotate images in the attachments here?
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      876
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Ryans C10 View Post
      I kind of let this die but there isn't enough traffic in the truck forum so im updating it lol. Alot of progress has been made on the truck and it has changed directions a few times.
      The big block is out and its getting a lq9 with a small cam and t56.
      I have alot more pics to upload later today.
      I'm going to be shortening a 70 c10 LBW I bought from a co worker for $1,000.
      If you could pm me the steps in the shortening process I'd appreciate it.
      Same yellow color as yours.
      72 chevelle.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      721
      Country Flag: United States
      Please keep updating! I'm building a 71 Shortbed, LS/4l80 and love seeing your progress. It keeps me motivated.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Posts
      24
      Looking good! This was the original direction of my build so I will definitely be following along to see how it turns out!

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chevelletiger View Post
      I'm going to be shortening a 70 c10 LBW I bought from a co worker for $1,000.
      If you could pm me the steps in the shortening process I'd appreciate it.
      Same yellow color as yours.
      Basically your removing 12" between the cab mounts and 8" right off the back of the frame then you have to relocate the rear cab mounts 12" back since they will move forward. Then you have to remove the forward most bed mount brackets.
      If I had to do it again I would take the time to strip the frame down and put it on jackstands and shim it to get it sitting level both ways, then put weight over the frame at each jack stand to hold it down when it tries to warp during welding. I also would have used a swazall or big cutoff wheel to make as many cuts as possible, the plasma cutter worked great but I felt like the cuts could have been more precise. I actually found a guide somewhere that I followed but its pretty straight forward.
      Good luck! Let us know how it goes!

      Quote Originally Posted by spacepirate View Post
      Please keep updating! I'm building a 71 Shortbed, LS/4l80 and love seeing your progress. It keeps me motivated.
      Quote Originally Posted by bbalch404 View Post
      Looking good! This was the original direction of my build so I will definitely be following along to see how it turns out!
      Thanks for the kind comments! I have been very busy lately but more progress has been made, I will get some pics uploaded sooner or later

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
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      Got the cab on, engine and trans in and starting mocking up everything. I had to fab my own engine mounts because I think I have the wrong perches for the adapter plates I bought, so I set it as far down and back as I could..Might still have some header clearance problems but they are minor. Then I decided to throw some body panels on for a glam shot just for a little motivation. Ad sorry for the rotated pics I still dont know why thats happening. And dont mind my messy shop lol

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      St. Louis
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      Still sits like a 4x4 imo.. in the future I might build a drop member for it and 3 link rear suspension with coil overs.

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      721
      Country Flag: United States
      What headers are you using? And how do they fit? Any mods to the frame?

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