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    Results 1 to 20 of 152
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States

      1978 Mustang II restomod

      I took this in trade a few years ago toward some of the labor on restoring a Mustang. This is what we are starting with. The hood scoop has to go. I have always liked the Mustang II and I plan on making this my driver.









      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm not sure what they were thinking or what they used to cut this hole in the hood.



      After Brian worked on it



      The hood was sanded down to bare metal and all the old scoop holes welded.



      It looked good before it was primed but it needs a lot of work



      After a little block sanding and bodywork





      I plan on using the Mach 1 scoop and once that comes in I will bolt it on and finish the bodywork. At this time the hood is low in front of the hole but the scoop should draw that up.

      I sprayed a couple of coats of epoxy to seal the bodywork.



      A had enough Slick Sand polyester primer for a couple of coats



      Block sanded with 80 and found one low spot that required a little filler



      Two coats of SPI Turbo primer



      The hood required a lot of work but I'm happy with it now.

      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      We have a new problem. This was filled with bondo. I had not planned on taking out the gas tank.



      The rust was cut out.



      Eleanor gas filler kit from Mustangs to Fear was welded in place. A gas filler neck from a 1968 Mustang was also used.



      Billet gas cap from Mustangs Unlimited

      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      I wanted a cleaner looking taillight panel so the Ford holes were welded and ground down



      The bodywork is finished on the taillight panel



      Scottrods rear bumper fits great. The original bumper brackets were cut off and two holes were drilled in the trunk for a test fit. Add a few more bolts inside the trunk and a couple on each quarter and your done.

      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2015
      Location
      SW KS
      Posts
      162
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome! Thank you for putting this up!

      Chris

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2015
      Location
      SW KS
      Posts
      162
      Country Flag: United States
      I see its a T-top car and has some Fox 4 lug ponies on it. What are your plans for the powertrain? Going to stay with the C4? 4R70W swap or Aod?

      Going carbed or fuel injected? I love these cars. My friend had a King Cobra with the mesh wheels, 302 and a 4 speed, and it was one of the first cars I rode in that truly scared me from a power / flimsy chassis ratio. I've loved them since then!

      Chris

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Posts
      362
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking good - Keep the pictures coming.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      We found a 8" rear from a 1965 Mustang. The spring perches are a little wider on the rear but we made it fit. I ordered a 1" lowering kit.



      I installed a Rod & Custom front suspension in my 1968 Coupe and upgraded to Baer brakes so I used the original ones that came with the kit on the II.



      The front fiberglass bumper was to wide and shaped wrong at the bottom



      I cut and taped a piece of aluminum



      Added three layers of fiberglass mat



      Removed the aluminum



      Still needs more work



      When I'm finished the valance and bumper will be one piece.



      I added 3 layers of fiberglass mat on each end and now all I have to do is fit the center piece and a lot of bodywork and I will have a one piece bumper and valance!!



      Test fitting the one piece bumper and valance





      I still have a little work to do to get it lined up to the fenders

      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Berwick, South Louisiana.
      Posts
      203
      Country Flag: United States
      Cool project. Nice to see you building a daily driver like this. Subscribed.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Posts
      122
      Country Flag: Canada
      Cool. Great quality. Going to be nice.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      Rusty, excellent project. I've been wanting to build a DD mustang II for several years now. Been looking for a good running 302 non T-top hatchback car. Had a 78 T-top car in the early 90s, didn't care for the T-tops. Want to go with a mild carbed 302 with 5-speed. Passed on a couple of cars so far this year, neither was currently drive-able. I'll be watching this one.
      Roger

      69 Mustang coupe, under construction
      2011 Mustang - DD
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ang-SuperCoupe

      Freedom Of Speed!




    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Easton, PA
      Posts
      989
      Country Flag: United States
      you're managing to make a II look pretty good, nice job!

      my Dad had a '78 Mustang V6/4 speed, for a little while back in the day; bright metallic blue, white vinyl roof notchback, white vinyl interior with a blue rug. hideous. all that and terrible handling too!
      Keith C.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St. George, UT
      Posts
      1,144
      Country Flag: United States
      I was getting all excited and then the thread ended. More!!!
      -Ben, Creative Director at Speedtech Performance
      We sell some really cool parts, build cool cars, and do cool concept renderings too!
      435-628-4300 www.speedtechperformance.com
      My Pumkinator build thread- https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ght=pumkinator

    14. #14
      Join Date
      May 2011
      Location
      Brisbane, Australia
      Posts
      453
      Country Flag: Australia
      Great job on the bumper and front valance. The original monstrosity ruined the entire front end of the car. Yours looks right!
      1967 Mustang Fastback - widebody https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...stang-Fastback
      1966 Plymouth Fury III
      1961 Oldsmobile 88 "bubbletop" = next project

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 69stang View Post
      Rusty, excellent project. I've been wanting to build a DD mustang II for several years now. Been looking for a good running 302 non T-top hatchback car. Had a 78 T-top car in the early 90s, didn't care for the T-tops. Want to go with a mild carbed 302 with 5-speed. Passed on a couple of cars so far this year, neither was currently drive-able. I'll be watching this one.
      I don't like the T-tops but I'm stuck with them. This was somewhat of a driver when I got it but after sitting for a couple of years it didn't want to start.
      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      We had a few rust holes in the floor that were cut out and new metal added.







      Floor was sanded and epoxy primed black







      Because this has a T-top we are going to add subframe connectors and a roll bar from S&W. The roll bar was sanded and epoxy primed.











      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      The major bodywork is finished



      Two coats of SPI epoxy



      Block sanded and a little more bodywork



      More epoxy







      I block sanded again and sprayed white epoxy. I have decided on a color SPI Orange. It is a little darker in person





      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Sep 2015
      Location
      SW KS
      Posts
      162
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes! I also spy 5 lug wheels!

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      The fenders have been sprayed white epoxy almost ready for SPI orange paint then I decided to fill in the marker lights



      Ready for more primer. The wheels are off of Brian's 94 but the offset is wrong and the front cap won't go over the spindle



      I sprayed two coats of SPI epoxy primer on the body and roll bar



      I finished the bodywork and sprayed a coat of epoxy to seal it before spraying urethane primer









      Two coats of SPI Turbo primer





      The body has been block sanded and I sprayed a couple more coats of SPI Turbo urethane primer.







      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      The wheels and tires are will be using

      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    Page 1 of 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... LastLast




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