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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
    Lol. Your funny. I'll check you out...



  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
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    4" YSI intake pipe installed. Locations for Methanol injections will be under the intake tube. Going to mount the Vortech Race Bypass valve on the front with a recirculating tube back into the intake tube. Cannot afford to get dirt and dust into the engine.

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    12" rear wheels are ready to spray.

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    10.5" fronts are ready for spray as well.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    London, Ontario
    Posts
    291
    Country Flag: Canada
    Holy crap man, this is going to be wicked! Awesome!

    73 Maverick Grabber Project

    My never ending project:
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...hlight=grabber

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
    Thanks man. The Vortech Race Bypass valve was delivered today. Since all this blower stuff is custom I have to fabricate everything in some shape or form. The tube to connect the bypass to the intake elbow is aluminum tube stock which I just ordered today. Once that get's in I can get down to having it all welded once I locate it all. I went out an bought an assortment of hole saw's in order to make the hole for the bypass valve. Once that is done I will have to file/grind down the tube stock to wrap around the 180 aluminum elbow the make a tube to join the intake tube to the
    bypass valve with a rubber tube. Then the hard part will be done, the entire custom blower assembly. Well, methanol injection too.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    122
    Country Flag: United States
    I have a saleen (heat/ac/climate tempature) overlay faceplate or whatever it is called....It will match your theme and cluster. It is still in plastic package if you are interested. I tried to find them on site but I couldnt find them anywhere. I am not sure how much to ask for it.

    I will take pictures, if you are interested in it.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
    I'm interested. I pm'd you

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Prescott, AZ
    Posts
    205
    Country Flag: United States
    Everything about this is so period correct and awesome. Cant wait to see what else you have in store!
    Last edited by Centerforce; 03-09-2016 at 05:53 PM.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    1,204
    Country Flag: United States
    Woooo! I love it. The guys at work give me a hard time about my fox but these seeing these builds makes me glad I'm doing mine too!

    Great job so far!


    Ridetech Suspsension
    Tech Specialist
    Phone: 812.481.4734

    Project Fox
    1979 Trans Am

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
    Thanks for the positive guys. I've been sick off and on since October. I'm on a different shift at work. Been slacking but buying parts. I have one week worth of days off later this month. I plan to finish up the motor and hopefully drop it in the car. Still waiting on the wheels to be painted.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
    I had to make a contour guage since I could not find one for sale. Made it out of 2.0 guage 296 mm bicycle spokes.

    Making progress on the intake tubing. Since I do not own a tig welder, I have to outsource the welding.

    Blow off valve, blow off valve to blower intake, 4 vacuum fittings and 2 methanol injector bungs will all be welded up. Once this is all done and test fitted, I can turn my attention to the billet timing chain gear swap and YSI oil pan return bung.

    Getting the replacement fenders bolted up, gas tank/ lines, T56 and 5.0 shortblock removed is next. Getting the grunt work done. Making room for the new parts. Posting pics as it goes.

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  11. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
    Just picked up my wheels from the wheel shop. Cleaned up hardware, painted centers. New 18" lips and barrels.

    New sizes are 18 x 10.5" front and 18 x 12" rear. Still have to buy tires.

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  12. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    McKinney, TX
    Posts
    1,625
    Country Flag: United States
    How have I missed this build?? This is amazing and I love everything about it.
    66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
    89 Mustang "Box Wine"

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    122
    Country Flag: United States
    Loookinggg goooodd!!! Its gonna look killer on your car!

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
    Assembled the top end and blower with tubing to it's final state, dual snow methanol injectors, and missing a t-bolt blower clamp. Here is the end result. New rails too with 60# injectors. Should be able to support 800fwhp at least. Just have to final torque everything down. Blower drain tube in a new oil pan is next. Then I can final assemble the blower oil supply and return line.
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  15. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
    Front flares roughed in, fenders cut and adjusted, ran out of cleco fasteners when I got to the passenger side. Saleen Side skirts, rear valence installed.

    All ABS lines and Saleen radar detector lines ran toward the ABS unit. Designed, (in my head) brackets to weld the ABS unit to the frame rails.

    Front Bilsteins adjusted. Front K member ready to drop, same as stock engine and T56. Kenny Brown front brake ducts look like the will require a 1/4" worth of material turned down on the lower strut bolt and MM front bolt in bumpsteer kit. They fit in the stock length but rubbed the intake tube on the cooling plates. Doing everything in two's for my drag car. Such as brake line flanges for front Wilwood brake lines as well as spindles for MM Bumpsteer kit.

    Removing the AC lines and accumulator as well as engine bay cleaning next. Looking like I will need to either cut and solder/heat shrink a few old cracked lines or locate a new harness. This might push me to rewire the car again from under the hood hiding, to installing everything inside the car for a better cleaner look. Going to see what the factory inner wheel plastic will look like now and how much to trim/add onto.

    Not using the factory ECU with the 00R engine due to standalone will make it easier to rewire things again. I might have to use a few wires for sensors and things which will make it a little easier. It is all falling into place now. Getting closer to resolving all the small stuff.

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  16. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    H-Town, TX
    Posts
    327
    Country Flag: United States
    Great build!

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    670
    Country Flag: United States
    Great build, tons of rare parts there. Love the Sterns!
    John Brown
    1971 Nova - Project Car
    2017 Camaro SS 1LE
    My FQuick Garage

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
    Going to have to spend money to keep going. Needing Thump RRR Racing tensioner and Innovators West Overdrive Crank Pulley as well as tires. $1800 right there in parts. Posting as I go.

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
    So been a while since I updated this thread. A few things have happened since then. For one, I found RCI Headers in Rancho Cucamonga, who fixed a set of long tubes for my drag car. He is going to build two sets of long tubes for the 00R motor as well as the 2014 GT500/00R motor. I have since completed a bunch of little things and started on the path to drop the motor in the car. Here are some quick pics:

    Managed to pull the T56 and 5.0 shortblock out in one shot.
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    Deconstructing the 00R factory seals. So the need to replace the DOHC crank chain gear from factory powdered steel to billet MMR was apparent with the YSI. Had an issue with the Left cam sprocket, and learning how to compress the tensioners, but managed to get it all done. I am not sure, but I believe that the number on the Right cylinder head is from the assembler or 00R car number. Took some pics after I broke the factory 237 mile seals. New NGK TR-6 plugs gapped at 0.28 are going in as well.
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    2014 GT500 TVS, 2010 Super Cobra Jet Prototype/Testing lower, SCJ brackets. Started messing around with the other motor. 00R Prototype heads, 00R rods, Navi crank, 0.20 piston build. Building this for another car build down the road. Had to use an 07-08 PS pump, luckily a retired machinist friend made the supply line bracket, not pictured. Still needs a little effort to complete the front timing cover.
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    Craig at RCI headers builds headers, at great prices. I sent him the MM K member with the 00R mounts to build out two sets of headers for both motors.
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    Found a great deal on a BeCool radiator and picked it up. Might have to remove the upper right corner to clear the 4" YSI intake tube.
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    00R motor with Thump RRR tensioner, 8 rib AC compressor, and the custom 8 rib water pump pulley, 00R size PS pulley and 18% overdrive Innovators West Balancer. Found that the front main seal had leaked a little so replaced it as well. Need to torque the balancer down. Been contemplating polishing it all up first.
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    Sterns are now installed, 10.5 front and 12" rears, 18". 275 R888 fronts and 305 R888 rears.
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    I did not feel that the first blower bracket would support the YSI so Dick VanDusen fabricated a 1/2" version. Might polish it all up before reinstalling. Debating it as the timing cover polished would be nice too.
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    Going to swap the MM k member to the drag car, and finish up the blower install as well. Cannot drop the motor in until the headers and K member show up.

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    60
    Country Flag: Greece
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    Custom long tubes came in, 2" x 3.5" V band collectors. Swapped front k members. Aligned and tightened the k member. Probably going to have to cut out the sway bar mounts and drop the k member to get the engine in from the top. Drilled pilot holes to make sure it is still aligned. Pulled out the stock fuel system. Been having a hard time uploading pics.

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