1963 Ford Falcon Build - RestoMod

[jorgezee1]

Hello Everyone,


If you're interested in my background story please proceed to my story below. If you're only interested in what I am building skip the story.




I will be starting a 1963 falcon restomod build project. I am new to fords, my background in classic cars has always revolved around the chevy platform. In parallel with this build I have another build, a 69 Camaro that is my never ending money pit project. So now comes the question of why... The answer is very simple, my wife felt left out that I was building a classic car to enjoy and now she wanted one. I asked what she liked hopping she would say 65 Nova or Chevelle. In the end she said I want a Falcon. I was a bit surprised and thrown off guard, haha. Just to be clear, I have nothing against any manufacturer and I also appreciate all muscle car platforms. All the cars from the muscle car era's are badass to me. I just never worked on any of the ford platform cars or had any background history on mods that are done to them. So a few months of researching and saving up, she decided on the falcon she wanted, a 1963 falcon hardtop. This is where I came in and started my own research. I searched forums after forums trying to get as much info on these cars. The more I read about the car the more I understood what I wanted for her in a falcon My decision was now clear, If I am going to build a falcon at minimum it will need to be a v8 model Futura or Sprint. Why a v8? Bucket seats, Disc brakes, fuel injection, aftermarket support and because it's a v8 and I want it.... for her. I need to build something I know she can drive and she will be safe in. The first mods I will plan to do is power disc brakes and suspension then the powertrain. So this is the start of my build. I thank you in advance for all the countless forum posts you have all started here, and on other sites that will help me along the way to finish this build. Onto the good stuff...


Starting point:
1963 Falcon Futura Sprint
Ford V8 302 4 barrel with a C4 floor shift conversion
Original 8" 3.00 rear end
5 lug, Drums non power booster.
Non power steering with a 1 1/8th gear box.
Body is rough... not happy about this part.


Pics











First day home:





Build Plans:


302 FI Engine
AOD (gearing from R470w) column shift
8" 3.80 Posi Tru Lock
Refurbish/New stock suspension 2" lower
65 Falcon Steering upgrade
Power Brakes
Granda brake (with corrected angle spindles)
Rear ABS Disc brakes
Kwik wire 14 circuit - rewire kit
Painless Engine Harness
Tanks inc Mustang fuel Tank (fuel injection)


There is a lot of other in between stuff I will need to figure out.
New brake lines and fuel lines. I will break down the list a bit more when I get pics of the parts. There are still a lot of parts sourcing to do.


Other Project:




I will break down what I can for my build but if you have any questions do not hesitate to ask I will share the knowledge I gained. Like I said, I am new to fords so if you feel I am forgetting or doing something wrong please let me know.


Plan updates and parts list.


Engine 302 Fi:


302 built and ran in a early Bronco. Picked up from craigslist for 1350.00 after some negotiation.
Engine is rebuilt, unknown milage but very few (under 10,000) from the information I gathered. It also came with a dyno sheet. 330tq at 3400 rpm 240hp at 4400rpm





Painless Wiring kit with ecu - Came with Engine. Some cut wires but nothing major. bought addition painless circut kit from ebay to fix it up.





References:
EFI 5.0 install
Falcon 5.0 Conversion
B.C. Broncos Fuel Injection
JamesW's Home Page
The Falcon/Comet FAQ


Transmission AOD:
Bought 2, a AOD out of a 90 mustang and a AODE out of a 94 F150 2wd
Both were bought from craigslist 60.00 for the 90 AOD and 50 for the 94 AODE


Took both of them and had the AOD rebuilt, AOD with R470W gearing:
Rebuild cost: Total with trans purchase was a about 1,000
Red Alto clutches, kolene steels, gaskets and Seals
Trickflow pan - Craigslist find
Lokar column shift kit


References:
How to Build the Perfect AOD - AODetail
Baumann Electronic Controls
Lincolns OnLine | Tech Tips and Articles
Lincolns OnLine | Tech Tips and Articles











Torque Convertor Edge Racing 10" 2600 rpm stall
used - Craigslist 350.00


Edge Racing Converters, More Horsepower with More Torque Guaranteed!



Rear end:


Bought a 67 mustang 8"
Rebuilt open diff 2.89 gear? can't remember with new disc brakes
Craigslist - 600.00
I will basically use the brakes and pumpkin and sell the diff and rebuild mine or have this one narrowed. not sure yet.


Bought a yukon Tru trac posi from a seller on ebay with bearing kit and 3.80 ring and pinion - 434.00 shipped for posi and bearing kit and axle bearing kit.
140 shipped for gearing kit. Total 575





Brakes and Suspension:


Granada kit, new 65 falcon steering, and new control arms. 900.00
New but installed on a falcon so a bit rusty now.
Wall to Wall Falcon parts - Russ Wall he has a good amount of hard to find parts. Russ Wall, Azusa, CA (626) 969-8157





(Not bought just yet)
New spindles with correct geometry - 300.00
Roller spring perches - 150.00
Home - Old school guy makes good stuff. - DropnStop


I did by springs from him:
Mustang GT spring - 60.00 or 80.00 cant remember



Rear leafs 6 leaf:
Ebay seller: found them from oldbleu
220 shipped with bushings


springking0001 on eBay







Referneces:
http://www.cometeastcarclub.org/PDFs...ingUpgrade.pdf
http://cometeastcarclub.org/Articles...dalignment.pdf
FalconEarlyBirds.com
8" Rearend Installation
Shelby Drop
Leaf Spring Replacement
V-8 Front Suspension Installation
Front End 1
Ford Falcon Granada Disk Brake Installation


Chasis Wiring will be Kwik Wire:
Forum buy 150-200 not sure anymore:





So far this is my starting point. I have been buying and storing until i feel I have all i need to start.


I will be looking into getting the fuel tank and radiator next. I have an idea already possibly go with the Tanks inc Mustang FI tank and Champion Radiator (ebay)

[jorgezee1]

Started on the teardown of the rear suspension, pulled the rear end out and I will send out a third member to get rebuilt. I will start degreasing and prepping the housing for paint. Is there an easy way to check a housing for straitness? not that I have a concern just want to know if there was an easy way aside from taking it to a shop.








I also picked up the mount I will use for the AOD.

UPDATE:

If you are interested in the mount here is the contact info.
Paid 70 local pick up.
Includes - Bracket with trans mount and hardware.

Frankie - 626-246-4898
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sea...y=falcon%20aod




I found some nice frame rail damage I will need to address before I get the rear end back in.




Rearend plan:

I picked up (2) 8" rear ends

1: Rebuilt 1967 Mustang non posi 8" with 2.89 gears w/ disc brakes.
2: Used non posi 68 Fairlane 8" (Has extra ribbing for strength)

I will be using the disc brakes from the Mustang diff and the third member from the Fairlane.

If anyone is interested in a rebuilt 67 mustang non posi unit it is for sale nothing wrong with it, I just didn't want to use the third member since it was already rebuilt and I will be putting a posi unit in mine. Also for sale the housing/axles for the Fairlane with 2" drum brakes, it does not have the drums.

Here is the Third Member I will send out. From a Fairlane 500. From my web researching I found the the 8" Third members with the extra ribbing are stronger then my current falcon one.

Not the greatest pic I will post a better one.



Mustang diff.

[jorgezee1]

Started this build on the Mustang Forum and moving it over here as well. Thanks!

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/falc...d-project.html

[Bossed]

Those cars are beautiful, and getting scarce, especially a Sprint model. I'd love to have one like that. She will have an awesome little hot rod, thanks for sharing.

[LERM]

Yup... I want this one too... gunna need a bigger garage...

[Cop Magnet]

Nice build! I always loved the old Ford's, big and little.
I really like how you organized your thread, with background, updates, sources, and references. I know it took a lot of work, but it's helpful.

[andrewb70]

Great progress. Looking forward to future updates.

Andrew

[Josh@Ridetech]

Great project, nice to see something different .

[jorgezee1]

Thanks guys! Appreciate the kind words!


Here's an updated picture of the Fairlane rearend.





I started tearing down this rearend last night, took everything off but I cannot get the pumpkin loose. I tried rubber mallets, screwdrivers and a pry bar this thing does not move. I gave up last night around 11pm in fear my wife would wake up from me hammering on it.

Is there an easy way to knock loose the third member? I google'd it and found that people knock out the studs, but I curious to know if anyone has some tricks they can share. I need to do this to 2 other housings and I would hate to have to knock out the studs on all.

[Yellow66]

Loving all the Falcon on here! That's going to be a sweet ride when your done, not that anyone is ever done Subscribed

[andrewb70]

.....

Is there an easy way to knock loose the third member? I google'd it and found that people knock out the studs, but I curious to know if anyone has some tricks they can share. I need to do this to 2 other housings and I would hate to have to knock out the studs on all.

You did pull the axles first, right? :-)

I would try some heat. Maybe start at the top on the 3 bolts. See if you can get it loose enough to slip a pry bar in, then work it gently around the perimeter.

Andrew

[jorgezee1]

You did pull the axles first, right? :-)

I would try some heat. Maybe start at the top on the 3 bolts. See if you can get it loose enough to slip a pry bar in, then work it gently around the perimeter.

Andrew

Hi Andrew, Thanks for the advice I will give it a try tonight when I get home.

The axles are out but I didn't at first notice that there were some copper washers on some of the studs until after I started scrapping off some grime. I pry'd them off thinking that was it, but still a no go. I will give your suggestions a try.

Thanks!

[Dave B]

"Body is rough" Maybe in California, but for us in the rust belt,that's near mint! Awesome project, thanks for sharing!

[wfo guy]

8" or 9" third members should be able to be removed after removing all the nuts and washers. If it has been siliconed well, slid a slim chisel inbetween two studs and be careful. I have only found 1 bent housing that the studs didn't line up well in my years of doing this. You have the great beginnings there. We will look forward to updates.

[jorgezee1]

"Body is rough" Maybe in California, but for us in the rust belt,that's near mint! Awesome project, thanks for sharing!

Haha, understood. Body has some rust lower quarters and trunk sections are rotted out. Lower section of the door and the floors have issues. I'm not very good a sheet metal, or to rephrase I am not experienced with sheet metal and fabrication but I am going to attempt do most of the repair work. I will get pics of the issue areas. Maybe I can get some advice before I tackle that part of the build.

8" Diff Update:

After about 10 minutes of smacking it around the base with a wood block and screw driver it broke loose and got it off.

[jorgezee1]

Got both the Fairlane and the original 8" pulled apart. I dropped off the Diff to get rebuilt with Ed at Sutton Enterprises in La Habra.

http://www.suttonrearend.com/

Total will run 260.00

200 to rebuild/setup the 3rd member and 60 to remove and press in new bearings on the axles.

I will take care of the housing, seems simple enough. I will start removing the grim and degreasing it this week. I should hopefully have it done this weekend. I will use engine degreaser on the housing and then take it to get pressure washed at a local self wash station. Anyone have a better way? should I use something other then engine degreaser?

Original 8" housing:

[Dave B]

I just noticed that your car had a "Burch Ford" license plate frame on the front. My green 73 Maverick came from there.

[wfo guy]

Cleaning the rear housing is easiest in an engine vat. If you're on good terms with a machine shop, you can get that done for less than the cost of chemicals. Anything that is metal can go in the vat. No alum, copper, pot metal or galvanized.

[Bad Brad]

That's going to be a very cool car! I've been keeping my eye open for one for my wife.

[Munssey]

Very nice choice in platforms. If you can, try to get that motor and trans as low and back as possible. It's going to take a commitment of doing some trans tunnel surgery w that AODE case.

Keep up the posts on progress and hope to see ya out on the track in the future.