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    Page 7 of 7 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 7
    Results 121 to 134 of 134
    1. #121
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Toronto, Canada
      Posts
      93
      Nice job on the Delphi connectors, having the right tools for Metripack and Weatherpack connectors certainly makes the job alot easier. Here are a few things that I added when wiring my 1st gen conversion in case you're interested.
      Some terminal covers for the positive cabling, I didn't like the live wires being exposed.
      Have a cover for the junction panel that I'm going to cover up.
      https://www.summitracing.com/search/...terminal-boots
      Name:  thumbnail_IMG_3192.jpg
Views: 356
Size:  256.5 KB



      Cheapo plastic electrical box with cover for the relays.
      Name:  thumbnail_IMG_3177.jpg
Views: 366
Size:  228.2 KB

      Handy plastic clips for attaching wire loom with zip ties.
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Views: 360
Size:  100.1 KB


    2. #122
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      144
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by slazisme View Post
      Nice job on the Delphi connectors, having the right tools for Metripack and Weatherpack connectors certainly makes the job alot easier. Here are a few things that I added when wiring my 1st gen conversion in case you're interested.
      Some terminal covers for the positive cabling, I didn't like the live wires being exposed.
      Have a cover for the junction panel that I'm going to cover up.
      https://www.summitracing.com/search/...terminal-boots
      Name:  thumbnail_IMG_3192.jpg
Views: 356
Size:  256.5 KB

      Cheapo plastic electrical box with cover for the relays.
      Name:  thumbnail_IMG_3177.jpg
Views: 366
Size:  228.2 KB

      Handy plastic clips for attaching wire loom with zip ties.
      Name:  thumbnail_IMG_3221.jpg
Views: 360
Size:  100.1 KB
      Thanks! I will go in and clean a lot of things up once I get it running. I tend to leave everything easily accessible for a short while to make any troubleshooting a bit easier.
      I will certainly borrow from those ideas, though!
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    3. #123
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      144
      Country Flag: United States
      The last order of connectors arrived along with my break-in oil and some other pieces. I got the harness in and powered up the ecu and flashed it without issue. I also picked up some zip tie clips that should help me keep all of this wiring in place. I pulled the trigger on stainless pre-bent lines from Classic Tube. I called with the specifics of my build last Thursday and they'll arrive tomorrow. I also spent some time touching up the black on my gas cap. I'll likely do the same to the emblems later. Today was spent running to local auto parts places looking for hoses. I bent up some wire hangers to follow the general route I'd need. I was able to find everything I needed. Picture dump incoming!























      On the brake side of things. I switched my prop valve to the passenger side of my MC. I couldn't use the pre-bent front line because it interfered with the valve cover. So I ran a nicopp line under the MC to the other side.








      I also picked up an ACP thermostat housing. It seems well built.





      On the hose side of things. I was going to use a 69 Bronco upper hose but it was a bit short and I didn't like the look of it stretched.








      The 2nd option turned out a bit better. It's the lower hose from a (01-07) Toyota Sequoia with a 4.7L. The length and bends were close. I had to cut the center and turn the hose about 90* to make everything line up. I've ordered some aluminum tubing from Speedway to tie the two pieces back together.





      The lower was a bit easier. It's from a 94-04 V6 Mustang.


      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    4. #124
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,236
      Country Flag: United States
      Lots of excellent progress!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    5. #125
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      144
      Country Flag: United States
      Has it really been 3 weeks? Updates!

      Over the past few weeks, I've made some progress. The stainless pre-bent lines from classic tube arrived. I spoke to them a few times prior to ordering and was always told that they couldn't promise the lines would be perfect, given my custom application. They were close to perfect in all of the areas that were still stock. But I had to get creative when it came to the Wilwood attachments. I also had to run out to Speedway Motors and pick up some line fittings. No big deal. I used that chance to swing by a buddy's place and pick up his Tefba filter that will live in my system for a short while. Got the brake lines bled and clutch lines ran and bled. I also reinstalled my fuel cap. I had decided a long time ago to weld up the holes and redrill them since a previous owner had used drywall screws to make an attempt to replace missing hardware.....I sorted out my throttle linkage, ordered, picked up, and installed my driveshaft. Beaned myself in the face during that process....good times. Now I'm getting close to cranking it....soon...ish. Over the Thanksgiving holiday, I'll likely lay out the exhaust and get an idea of what I'm missing needing and work with my Chevelle buddy to get the ball rolling. Bring on the photodump!


      Coolant lines sorted and filter installed. I'll clamp everything when I'm ready to put water in.





      Looks pretty good for pre-bent stainless.




      Okay....this will need some work.




      Getting better...










      The brake pedal sat -way- high...around 8" from the floor.

      The factory manual says 7 to 6 inches. I had to trim the brake rod on the wilwood to give me enough adjustment.











      Time to bleed everything came and I made a mess because I was doing a lot of this solo.

      I also might have -maybe- let the rears gravity bleed because I forgot to tighten a line.....








      Throttle pedal and stuff came in. I had to twist the rod a bit to get the pedal to sit the way I liked. The pic is before. I also may remove the clutch pedal and twist it back 'straight'.





      Safety wire passes tech, right?





      Getting ready to fill goobered-up holes and reinstalling the cap.








      Driveshaft in! I had it built locally by AZ Driveshaft. 3.5" DOM steel with 1350 solid ujoints on both ends using my Sonnax slip yoke. Ignore the ugly welds on the floors, please.





      Still haven't cut the hood. I haven't decided what route to take on that. Lots of debate happening.











      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    6. #126
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,236
      Country Flag: United States
      Kris,

      You'll be ready to make noise in no time!!!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    7. #127
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      SF Bay Area
      Posts
      422
      I believe they sell a adjustable rod for the brake pedal to let you set the height - you addressed it pretty much the same way.

      Interesting about your Tebfa filter. Seems pretty similar in concept to the Gano filter I run in my rad hose. Gano is clear, so easy to observe when it catches junk, but I'm sure either is a decent solution to keep the radiator tubes from clogging.
      chunger

      '68 Ranchero 500
      '70 Cougar XR-7 Convertible
      '98 Mustang GT Convertible

    8. #128
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      144
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chunger View Post
      I believe they sell a adjustable rod for the brake pedal to let you set the height - you addressed it pretty much the same way.

      Interesting about your Tebfa filter. Seems pretty similar in concept to the Gano filter I run in my rad hose. Gano is clear, so easy to observe when it catches junk, but I'm sure either is a decent solution to keep the radiator tubes from clogging.
      This rod was adjustable. I had it adjusted as far in as it would go but it was still too long, so out came the hacksaw to shorten it to get it where i needed it. I thought it was kind of odd seeing as it was a mustang specific kit, but you know how things go with old cars and new parts.

      And I'd heard about the Tefba filters from a bunch of the british car guys that used to come into an import shop that I worked at. I mainly added it to make sure that the engine didn't dump any of the crap that it may or may not have left in the block into my new clean radiator. I'll likely run it for a few oil changes and remove it once it remains clean.
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    9. #129
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      144
      Country Flag: United States
      The latest is waiting on a spot to get in to my buddy's shop to get the exhaust done. This leaves me with a slight dilemma. I haven't fully decided on what mufflers I want.

      I have Black Widows that I purchased a couple of years ago. I had planned to run those with 2 additional resonators or small bullet mufflers to cut the volume down a bit more. But upon further review, there's no real room for additional -anything- it seems. So the current plan is to run the setup i have and decide later when it's on the road. The system will be 2.5" with a x-pipe and two BW venom 250s into tailpipes snaked through the panhard bar and exit below the valance.


      Everything in it's approximate location.





      The summit bullet mufflers that I had looked at using are 20" long and 4" thick. There's no good place under the floor before the mufflers to put them. And not really room beside the fuel tank to run them either.








      Either way, I'll figure something out at some point. Meanwhile, here's what I'll be working with to try and get tailpipes over the axle and through the panhard....a whole pile of bends to cut up!


      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    10. #130
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      144
      Country Flag: United States
      I've been looking for other things to do while waiting on a chance to get my exhaust done. Installing the MMI strut tower brace and the cowl reinforcement has been something I've been putting off, so I decided to tackle that. I temporarily installed the distributor (still has the steel gear on it) to make sure that I could get it in and out easily with the brace in. Once I knew that I had enough room, I pulled the hood and got started.


      Everything seems to fit well enough.




      The bolts line up well enough without the reinforcement in place.




      But less so with the reinforcement.







      So, upon getting grief from a friend for trying to take the lazy route, I dropped the idea of installing the brace without the reinforcement and welded up the factory holes to make my own so i could get everything to line up better.





      Much better.





      And here we are. Brace installed, reinforcement welded in and squirted black. I even adjusted the hood when i reinstalled it.


      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    11. #131
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      144
      Country Flag: United States
      It's been a few weeks and I've been slacking on giving updates. Not a lot has happened, really. But here's the latest.

      I needed to make some adjustments to the oil pan and Z-Ray crossmember to open up some space. Again, my engine is sitting lower and back and to the right. This caused a bit of interference and needed to be addressed. I dimpled the pan where the steering bumped it and cut the crossmember and re-welded it lower and clocked back a little.
      I made a template to give me the rough outline of what I'd need to end up with. Below are a few pics of the process. I need to get a pic of the finished crossmember.













      I -finally- was able to squeeze into a spot at my friend's shop to get my exhaust done. He loaned me his truck and trailer and off it goes!



      Once we got to looking at clearances and whatnot, the plan of an X-pipe with tailpipes out the back to the valance and additional bullet mufflers along with the black widows to tone things down a bit seemed to become a bit more complicated. My JBA headers hang -real- low and the panhard bar left very little room for 2.5" tailpipes. After much debate, side exit exhaust was decided upon 'for now' so i could get this turd on the road. I may revisit headers at a later date along with other changes.















      The bullet mufflers were added, in theory, to help tone things down a bit. I may or may not run at a local autocross track that has a 96db sound check and thought it best to try to address that early.

      One last thing we did while the car was still there was discuss the hood clearance issues. I've ordered a Performer RPM intake to replace the Victor Jr. to help with the hood clearance but that still didn't give me the room I wanted for the air cleaner. I had already purchased a 69 Mach 1 scoop from ebay, so I gave the all-clear and Mike opened up the hood. Before anyone flips out, it was a repop hood with a dent in the center of the cutout. No big loss. The RPM will provide enough room to run a drop-base cleaner and turn signal hood if I choose to later.







      One thing that I wanted to address prior to starting up the car (which hopefully will be soon-ish) was to protect the fuel line from heat since the side exhaust was now a thing. I have plenty of space between the line and the tip but since you can't be too careful, I wrapped a long section with DEI's fuel line sleeve and capped that off with their Cool Tape.







      To wrap this up, I had already decided to take down some more of the divider wall in the garage at home. There is still about 4' of it that I would like to remove. Oh, and I finally took the protective film off of the fuel tank.





      The new intake should arrive this week so I'll likely work on getting that swapped out. I've completed a few other things in the background that needed to be checked off. I think it's time to write my short list on the white board and start striking those items off to get ready to fire this pile up!
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    12. #132
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,236
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome progress! I bet that exhaust is going to sound good!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    13. #133
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      144
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Awesome progress! I bet that exhaust is going to sound good!

      Andrew
      I'm hoping to find out in the next couple of weeks!

      Adding pics of the changes made to the crossmember that I bought from ZRay on the VMF.

      Front of jack pad was removed before I had decided to cut the cross bar and drop and turn it back. Now that I know everything clears, I can pull it back off, move the pad, clean up the welds, and then scuff and repaint it.





      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    14. #134
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,236
      Country Flag: United States
      Kris,

      It would be good for me to be logged in on first start. That way you can be looking for fluid leaks while I keep the engine happy.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

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