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    Results 101 to 120 of 130
    1. #101
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,142
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by arcane73 View Post
      Thanks. I'll know more once I get power to everything. My primary concern was making sure I get all of the firmware updates done correctly and in order. I knew there would be some signal matching work to do when it came to making everything play nice together.

      I appreciate it!
      Also keep me in mind for future tuning work.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    2. #102
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      I figured I'd update this again even though it has felt like I haven't done much. It's been a series of events that I had to stop what I was doing and sit back to think of the next steps.
      I got the MDL clutch MC mounted and remounted the steering column. I need to get the brake MC mounted at some point and I'm considering calling ClassicTube because I've read/heard that they offer prebent stainless lines to mate up to willwood MC/prop valve combos. Haven't decided yet. I have a spool of nicopp hanging on the wall but I don't know if I want to try bending lines with the engine in place.


      I have run power through the car and have all of the lights/horns functional and working correctly.




      I mounted the throttle body and put on the 14" x 3" air cleaner on a 1" drop base. There is zero clearance. This brings me to the decision of sorting out a lower drop base, running a 'cold-air' type setup, or, most likely, cutting a hole in the hood and doing a Mach 1 scoop to sort of mimic the 68 CJ look. Still undecided.



      On to battery cables and mounting. I started finalizing the battery cables and mounting and decided to weld in a ground stud. I used a 3/8 weld stud and tacked it to the frame rail and ran my battery ground to that. The weld stud i used is on the left, the finished product is the one on the right. It worked out well.



      That allowed me to power up the ECU and check firmware. I'm way out of date which isn't a surprise seeing as the ECU was dated 9/2013. I didn't even get the touchscreen out to check it. I'll get it all mounted and update the firmware on all three after that.




      Since the EFI kit is older, there are only 3 I/O wires on it. That's easily remedied since the system can support 8 (4 input/4 output) and Holley sells the add-in wires in a kit (Holley 558-420) -thanks for the lead on that, Andrew!
      Adding them was super simple. The harness is numbered 1-XX depending on the number of pins from top left to bottom right. The instructions tell you where to add which color wire.


      You press the lock (white plastic tab) to release the wires while being careful not to pull any out:



      Pull out the white pin that fills the selected spot you need:



      That leaves you a hole in which to shove the appropriately colored wire.



      And lock the tab back when you're done. The blue/white wire was slotted in on connector JA, pin 12.



      The last part is something I'm not proud of. I've been sitting on a CVF front accessory drive since 2019. I finally got around to installing it this weekend. I started out by test fitting the water pump and just putting regular bolts in the back to hold the backing plate on. I stopped to run into town and then came home and ate lunch. I got back to work and forgot all about the bolts in the back and cracked my timing cover as I tightened the drive bracket down. I could likely ignore it and move on, but I'd be so mad if it leaked when I first started it. That lead me to decide to order a new cover and pull it all back down to do it right since it's easier now with no fluids in it. I could likely repair the existing cover or it may not even be damaged. But if I'm pulling it off, I'm replacing it. My mistake for not paying better attention. Learn and move on. I decided to test mount the rest of the kit and discovered that my crank pulley spacer was about 1" too thick. I called CVF today and they're sending me a spacer that is for a factory balancer. The confusion came from the balancer on the car being aftermarket but a 'factory-style' replacement. They just asked that I pack the one I have back up and send it to them when I verify all is well. That works for me.
      Here is how much room I'll have with the full kit on and running a shorty ford water pump:






      For now, I'm waiting on parts and still chipping away at it. Here's to hoping it's running by year's end!
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    3. #103
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Chesapeake, VA
      Posts
      578
      Progress is progress, it must feel good.
      Cars are meant to be driven.

      John B

    4. #104
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by jaybee View Post
      Progress is progress, it must feel good.
      It does. I try to slow down from time to time and look at what -little- i have left to do to actually get it to fire off.
      There's not a lot in the grand scheme of things. I hope to run my fuel line this weekend and sort out the timing cover issue. But beyond that, it's a bunch of manageable stuff as long as I take it in stages.
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    5. #105
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      SF Bay Area
      Posts
      420
      Quote Originally Posted by arcane73 View Post
      it's a bunch of manageable stuff as long as I take it in stages.
      That right there is the key to keep making progress on your projects. I've seen waaaay to many where the fella will get over excited and try to do too much, all at once. Most of these projects stall out. They key to keep things in perspective and break it down into manageable chunks.
      chunger

      '68 Ranchero 500
      '70 Cougar XR-7 Convertible
      '98 Mustang GT Convertible

    6. #106
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,142
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice progress.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    7. #107
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      This weekend was a short one as far as working on the car went. Sinus headache for two days and general frustrations led me to doing very little in the garage.


      I received the replacement timing cover from amazon....


      Yeah....thanks, amazon....someone else had returned it at some point with the same issue....




      I did get the timing cover off of the engine after pulling everything back off and i certainly did a number on it.



      I was as careful as possible but the corners of the timing cover that mated to the oil pan and block had a spot of gray rtv on them. A couple of layers of gasket tore when i removed the cover.





      I will likely just do the same when i reassemble this. A dab of ultra-gray in the corners of the pan/block, around the front pan seal and a tiny bit around the water ports and reassemble.

      I also realized that the cover that was on the engine did not have the dowels in it. Those are ordered as well.


      I made an attempt to get started on running my fuel line, but ended up needing a few different an fittings than what i had on hand.

      Another summit order that will arrive on the same day that the (hopefully correct) timing cover does and I'll get back to it this weekend.
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    8. #108
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      Made some forward progress. Got the new timing cover on and the front accessories remounted. Don't have the radiator back in yet but I have all next week off from work so I'll likely work on the car off and on during that time.


      New cover:



      Making sure it's all clean.




      So many gaskets...



      Here's another irritation. This water neck was not cheap. It happened as I was tightening it down. I was careful to make sure everything was in the right place and I didn't go crazy on it. It's a 90* neck and after this happened, I did some thinking and believe I may end up going with a 45* neck instead. Either way, I'm not happy about it.



      Moved to the rear and started roughing in the fuel line. I have the short piece from the pump to the bulkhead finished and I've got the run forward laid in where I want it to live. I'm running it along the pinch weld on the passenger side and will need another 90* bulkhead to go from the inner fender to the engine. I'll likely put in another order of parts sometime next week.



      I kept trying to decide on a way to address the hood clearance issue.....I picked up this on ebay for a good deal and I think this may be the route I take.






      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    9. #109
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      Just a quick thing I wanted to do after work. The 351 badges on the scoop are original and covered in the same green paint that the whole scoop is. So a very quick dip in lacquer thinner immediately got rid of the green paint.





      The downside is that one of the badges had started to separate and the thinner helped it along. No big deal, really. I'll get some badge adhesive or super glue, etc to re-affix it and then get some paint and a tiny brush to fill the faded black areas of the badges back in.







      I mean, if I'm going to keep the scoop, I may as well try to make it as presentable as the rest of the car....;)


      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    10. #110
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      SF Bay Area
      Posts
      420
      Quote Originally Posted by arcane73 View Post
      Moved to the rear and started roughing in the fuel line. I have the short piece from the pump to the bulkhead finished and I've got the run forward laid in where I want it to live. I'm running it along the pinch weld on the passenger side and will need another 90* bulkhead to go from the inner fender to the engine. I'll likely put in another order of parts sometime next week.


      Could you show more of your battery wiring? I'm thinking of also moving the battery to the trunk and I'd like to see what you did here. Did you relocate the solenoid to the trunk and extend the wires? I see two fat red cable running forward. Assume one is the charge wire from the alternator (3g?) and the other runs to the starter, is this right?
      chunger

      '68 Ranchero 500
      '70 Cougar XR-7 Convertible
      '98 Mustang GT Convertible

    11. #111
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chunger View Post
      Could you show more of your battery wiring? I'm thinking of also moving the battery to the trunk and I'd like to see what you did here. Did you relocate the solenoid to the trunk and extend the wires? I see two fat red cable running forward. Assume one is the charge wire from the alternator (3g?) and the other runs to the starter, is this right?
      Sure thing. I'll take some more pics in the morning and post them here. But you're mostly correct, I did 2/0ga from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter and then a separate 2ga fused from battery to bulkhead on the firewall for power to everything else.

      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.


    12. #112
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chunger View Post
      Could you show more of your battery wiring? I'm thinking of also moving the battery to the trunk and I'd like to see what you did here. Did you relocate the solenoid to the trunk and extend the wires? I see two fat red cable running forward. Assume one is the charge wire from the alternator (3g?) and the other runs to the starter, is this right?
      Ok. Battery location and #1 goes to starter via a bulkhead on the passenger side of the firewall. #2 is the fused feed to the main power to the engine compartment and interior. the ground cable is attached to a weld-in stud on the trunk floor to the right of the battery. The loomed wires coming out of the quarter and sitting along the bottom of the battery are the efi feeds.

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      Here you can see the 2ga wire leaving the fuse and it runs up the driver's side rocker to a bulkhead just above the master cylinder. I'm actually in the process now of running the extended starter solenoid wire. It ran down the passenger rocker and will be zip tied to the 2ga primary wire that is held in with clamps to the bottom of the package tray.

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      I've circled the 'starter' bulkhead. The 2/0 starter cable and the dedicated + and - feed for the efi run along the rocker channel in the bottom of the pic.

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      Here's a rough idea of how the alt wire will be ran. The bulkhead is circled on the firewall. That will be my primary feed for the alternator and anything else in the engine bay that needs 12v constant. I'll measure and put proper terminals on the wire once I get closer to cleaning up all of the other wiring.

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      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    13. #113
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      SF Bay Area
      Posts
      420
      Wow, thanks so much, this is GREAT info. I assume you're also going to run grounds from the engine to the front frame rail to complete the loop? You must be running a traditional starter, I'm running a PMGR starter, so would have to make some changes accordingly. Is that ground stud something other than just a bolt welded in place?

      I hadn't even thought of moving the main power lead to a stud on the firewall, but thats a GREAT idea!
      chunger

      '68 Ranchero 500
      '70 Cougar XR-7 Convertible
      '98 Mustang GT Convertible

    14. #114
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chunger View Post
      Wow, thanks so much, this is GREAT info. I assume you're also going to run grounds from the engine to the front frame rail to complete the loop? You must be running a traditional starter, I'm running a PMGR starter, so would have to make some changes accordingly. Is that ground stud something other than just a bolt welded in place?

      I hadn't even thought of moving the main power lead to a stud on the firewall, but thats a GREAT idea!
      Happy to help!
      I will be going nuts when it comes to grounds. I'll run one from front rail to engine, core support, and radiator. I haven't bought a starter yet. If i go with a pmgr, I'll likely run a second activation wire to the solenoid on the starter to prevent run-on. I could probably even piggy-back from the existing one under the dash. The ground stud is actually a weld stud. I found them on McMaster Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/weld-studs/
      And having the main power lug on the firewall makes so many things easier. Inside and out!
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    15. #115
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      I've decided to finish work with parts that I have on hand before ordering anything new. That includes things like working on getting the last of the fuel system done and wiring up the electric fans, msd, fuel pump and starter circuits. I went ahead and tackled the fuel lines and pump wiring and starter circuit. I'll jinx myself by saying this, but I should be done running wires through to the trunk.


      Starting from the back.


      From trunk bulkhead over the axle and down to the pinch weld.





      Along the passenger side pinch weld.





      Moving over the floor through the torque box. I tried to keep the transition from the outer edge of the car to the inner rail out of the open as much as I could here. It's pretty well protected by the torque box.





      I used an existing hole in the inner fender for a bulkhead into the engine bay.





      I didn't like how close it left the fuel line to the exhaust, though.





      I decided to move the bulkhead to this area since I could do it without too much trouble.





      End result. The last leg of the line is away from the exhaust and out of the way of the eventual ac/heater lines.





      And here is the shot from inside the trunk. Pump and sending unit are wired in. I have the pump on a relay and fuse that is mounted to the package tray. The sending unit is wired in with the AAW wire that runs up front. I'll change the settings in the gauges to accept the chevy sending unit range so the fuel gauge will read correctly.


      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    16. #116
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      Today was spent roughing in the wiring for the gauges, getting the front drive accessories sorted out, and making my 'universal' oil dipstick work. Not a lot of photos taken of anything but I did try to capture the first power up of the gauges.

      https://1drv.ms/v/s!AqtB6p6Cle2f0kOF...m5x2n?e=GPry6U

      Tomorrow i'll call Holley and see what needs to happen to get my distributor and MSD tied into the ecu so i can allow it to control the timing. I would rather not make a mess of any of the expensive parts before talking to someone that answers questions like those for a living.
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    17. #117
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,201
      Country Flag: United States
      Do you have the MDL clutch slave bleed and functioning ???

      I just had to redo a kit in a 68 that I'm working on, had to remove the lock washer from the stud, clutch fork was not centered, and I had to move the reservoir to the firewall from the fender well,
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LS1 T56, 12bolt 3:90's, C5/LS1 brakes IROC box, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green,Spearcos,


      http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=475228 some pics

      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    18. #118
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
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      Quote Originally Posted by Steve68 View Post
      Do you have the MDL clutch slave bleed and functioning ???

      I just had to redo a kit in a 68 that I'm working on, had to remove the lock washer from the stud, clutch fork was not centered, and I had to move the reservoir to the firewall from the fender well,
      No, I'm running a Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing on mine and not the MDL slave.
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    19. #119
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,201
      Country Flag: United States
      should have been spelt "bled"

      Good to know, If I would have built it probably would have done the same,
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LS1 T56, 12bolt 3:90's, C5/LS1 brakes IROC box, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green,Spearcos,


      http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=475228 some pics

      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    20. #120
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      More wiring! Roughed in and tested the fans. They're powered by relays that will be triggered by a (-) trigger from the ecu. I also decided to cut open my ecu harness and add a few things that are in the newer harnesses but not mine. I also found out that I can't use my Dakota Digital BMI in conjuction with the Holley touchscreen. Kinda sucks since I bought the touchscreen a couple of years ago to upgrade from the handheld unit. I'll just put it up for sale and go about my day.





      Fan wiring that will get routed and cleaned up later.








      The box of connectors and wires that I ordered to update my harness. And, of course, I forgot a couple of things. I'll probably finish this up next weekend.





      Start at the beginning.





      And then things escalate.





      This is the additional connector that I added for the extra input/outputs. The older harnesses like mine only had 3 total and the newer ones have 8.

      Start by stripping the ends and adding the seals.





      Add correct terminal for your connector and crimp.











      Insert the completed pins into the connector. Be sure to seal up any ports that you're not using to keep junk out of the connector. Slide the lock onto the back when you're done.











      Another thing I added was an oil pressure connection. I'll work on getting that fed into the ecu later. I also added a single connector so I could put all of the loose wires in one location (+12, ground, 12 trigger, fuel pump trigger). Wrapped it all back up and just waiting on a few pieces to show up so I can finish it up. Getting closer to cranking this pile!


      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

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