68 mustang rear 4 link kits

[oscariitoreyes]

Hello, first post!! So question is, 4 link kits.
I have a project 68 mustang and I purchased Detroit speed mini tubs
I need help figuring out which 4 link kit is going to workout for me
im trying to save a bit of $$ so what can I install that isn't obviously Detroit speed, I don't mind doing a bit of work as im going to be doing everything
and have just about all the tools available at a basic mechanic shop



so give me ideas!! ive looked into the Heidts 4 link, TCI, what other kits are out there, what gives you the biggest bang for your buck?

[Schwartz Performance]

ridetech!!
-Dale

[oscariitoreyes]

Thanks for the reply! Looked into it definitely gotta go with coil overs, any experience combining this with mini tubs?
Any other suggestions?

[Schwartz Performance]

Nope no problems there . Their single adjustable coilovers are great and allow you to dial in the ride quality.

-Dale

[Josh@Ridetech]

Nope no problems there . Their single adjustable coilovers are great and allow you to dial in the ride quality.

-Dale

Exactly what Dale said! The shocks ride great and have a 1,000,001 mile warranty

[Spork82]

Rod & Custom motorsport makes a nice kit that comes with QA1 coilovers. Just tell then which rear you plan to use and they set up the kit.

I have one in my Mustang, lots of room for the mini tubs.

[68EFIvert]

I have the TCP G-bar and like it. It is almost the same as the ridetech kit but seemed a little beefier to me. I eventually changed out the coilovers to JRI per the suggestion of Mike Maier.

[oscariitoreyes]

here I am bugging again, but let me be more specific, im looking for a rear 4 link that will allow me to tuck a 10-11in width wheel in the rear, without having to roll a fender, my only problem with the suspensions is that they use the same mounting locations for their links as the stock leaf spring which seems to be the limiting factor, does anyone have any experience with this?

[68EFIvert]

I have a 10" wide wheel on my car. I have 295/35/18 tires and had to take a BFH to the inner fender well up front. The rears will take a very modest amount of rolling for it to work. The link bars for the TCP setup are not even close to being in the way. If you mini tub you should be able to get an 11" wide wheel under there buy you would likely have to modify the suspension kit to relocate the lower link. You should take a look at Street or Track's 3 link setup.

[Spork82]

A 10" rim will fit with no issues, possibly some massage to the inner wheel well. Members on vintage-mustang have done with leafs. Need to find the right offset. 67-70 you can fit them without heavy modification.

Any of the 3/4-links kits will give you plenty of room.

I stuck a 9.5" under mine. I narrowed my rear end 2" because I wanted a deeper dish. Still have room for a 10" rim. I could have kept the rear end stock and still put either rim in there.

[chatas1]

I have a 2" mini tub on my 67 with a Rod and custom linked suspension. For wheels, I'm using 295 35 18 on a 10" rim. You could probably run a 305 with this setup. I just chickened out..







The suspension hasn't been adjusted yet.. I'm hoping to slam it down much more… I also rolled the wheel lips.

[68EFIvert]

That looks nice!

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

here I am bugging again, but let me be more specific, im looking for a rear 4 link that will allow me to tuck a 10-11in width wheel in the rear, without having to roll a fender, my only problem with the suspensions is that they use the same mounting locations for their links as the stock leaf spring which seems to be the limiting factor, does anyone have any experience with this?

The g-Bar system allows additional tire clearance so you can use the entire stock wheel tub. If you think you'll be adding mini-tubs, then step up to the g-Link version which has an available offset lower control arm pivot for just that extra little bit of clearance. There are bunch of cars on the TCP Facebook page with this system.

I have the TCP G-bar and like it. It is almost the same as the ridetech kit but seemed a little beefier to me.

Great to hear! The TCP arms are made from larger diameter tubing and the g-Bar version has big, greasable polyurethane bushings for maximum ride quality with minimal road noise. The 3-piece cradle design makes it easier to install in cars 45+ years old with their uncommon frame rail dimensions. The g-Link version ups the ante with adjustable lower control arms and spherical pivot balls in all four control arms.
g-Bar LCA

g-Link LCA with offset pivot shaft


Click here to check out some details on the features and options. There are additional links to downloadable PDF data sheets, a buyers guide, and install guides.

Here's a video one of my customers produced showing his Mustang g-Link install.

[Jeff70]

Check out Shaun's 3link.

http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-...-pr-24572.html



https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5Rd9E1yl3AY

[6fastback7]

Check out Shaun's 3link.

http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-...-pr-24572.html



https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5Rd9E1yl3AY

I run this setup in my 67 fastback along with his Coilover front suspension....I installed it in the garage in few hours with just some jackstands (minus the time taking the axle into a shop to do the welding). I like that the Bilstein coilovers are not off the shelf parts...they were custom built for this car in mind. I have nothing but the stock setup to compare it to....but I doubt anything else on the market would blow it away in road feel.

[Jeff70]

6FastBack7 have any pics of your car?

[MuscleRodz]

TCI will not work with DSE tubs, without alot of modification. Just went down that road.

[408sbfmustang]

http://www.ajeracing.com/64-70Mustang.php

[oscariitoreyes]

this might be what I'm looking for! what offset do you have? I might be willing to roll my fenders slightly since I have painted the car just yet. Around how much did the kit run you? beautiful car by the way!

[ngiotta]

At the risk of resurrecting a dead thread, I thought I'd reply that I just installed a Heidt's 4 link and found that the front brackets eliminate the possibility of widening the inner tubs, as they butt-up against the stock wheel tubs. The only reason I'm bringing this back from the dead, is because this is a top Google result and it could help someone else out in the future. I fixed this by swapping the left and right brackets, and mounted them on the inside of the frame rails instead. This moved the mounting points inboard for everything by 6.25". By doing this, the following modifications had to be made:

- Cut 3" square holes for front brackets in floor pan under rear seat (easy)
- Removed both E-brake brackets from inner frame rails, as they were in the way (easy)
- Cut off 4 existing shock mount tabs from upper shock mount bar and welded them in 6.25" (moderate)
- Welded axle mounts with the modified 6.25" narrowed mounting points (not any harder than doing it the other way)
- Cut (2) L-shaped steel brackets to reinforce the front brackets-- maybe not needed, but peace of mind... (moderate)

Anyhow, I can confirm that this method works with the Heidt's kit or the Chinese knockoff that's sold on eBay. If you're doing this on the cheap, get the kit w/o the shocks and order yourself some 10" QA1's with 5/8" bushings. There's some elbow grease involved, but you can save a ton of money doing this and you'll have full access to bring your wheel tubs all the way in. The DSE frame modifications still will not work with this method, so the best you can do is just get larger wheel housings. Tons of them available...