1965 Mustang Coupe Build...

[andrewb70]

....

edit: Oh, a fun fact on all of this... I've never driven a car older than ~1986. Ever. I've never ridden in an early Mustang. Shoot, I've only ridden in 2-3 Mustangs total, ever. So I have no idea how good/bad these things handled stock, LOL. I do know how floppy it was when I got it though. Wowza it was a wet noodle! I come from Mazda RX7 land (built like 20+ of those) and they are RIGID even stock. Going to be interesting, haha.

You better lower your expectations. My FC with stock suspension and a LS6 was a great little car. These old cars need a lot of help...a full cage helps a lot in the chassis rigidity department.



Andrew

[digitalsolo]

Yeah, a cage is 100% out. Part of the reason I sold the RX7 was no rear seats so I couldn't take my wife/son with me places. The Mustang needs to be family friendly so <700 RWHP and no cage are high on my list of requirements.

I suppose I may not be able to reach FC levels of handling, but I'm hoping I can get it somewhat close. My big priority is going to be chassis rigidity though. Even a crappy suspension is crutched a lot by a stable chassis. We'll see how good my theory works out. If all else fails at least all my tube work looks cool, LOL.

[Jetfixr320]

With the way your build is looking. I think you will be fine with the Mustang II type suspension.
I have two cars with R&C kits. I would let you drive mine if your near Indy.

I like the way TCI uses shims to adjust the upper control arm verse the sliding t-bolts.

And stick with power steering. I went manual being cheap and have switched one to P/S and will do the other someday.

I was looking at my Falcon yesterday and wondered about longer control arms to get the wheel out a little further.

I've posted this before, but its interesting. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...-coupe.723029/

Good luck with your build.

[digitalsolo]

Yeah, the sliding T-bolts seem to be an issue. I am kicking around an idea to fix them though.

I will 100% have power steering, but I am currently looking at a manual R&P and an electric column. That way I can avoid a P/S motor and lines. I did order a wider stance (2" total) crossmember to push the wheels out a bit so that I can fit my "modern style" offset wheels without 1" spacers on each side.

[manOwar]

There are a couple options to improve handling and geometry that can be added to the MII based suspension...

Wilwood Pro Spindles are a half inch taller and improve roll center and body roll. The steering arms are bolt on and can be used with either front or rear steer and can be installed on either side which allows you to install the tie rod on either top or bottom to help with bump steer. http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/flyers/fl193.pdf

Then there's SPC adjustable upper control arms. Page 91 here; http://www.spcalignment.com/images/s...t_2013-web.pdf

I have the R&C kit in mine with the 2" drop pro spindles and 14" brakes. I went with an 18x8 wheel which required 6.25" BS. I went with a 225/45 tire but may end up with a 225/40. There's room for a 245/35 or 40 however, it's real tight and would require stops installed on the rack.

[digitalsolo]

Awesome, keep it coming guys, I really appreciate the input.

I will take a look at those Wilwood spindles. I want to do a late model Mustang 13" brake setup. I can have brackets cut by my buddy with his plasma if needed, I know my way around AutoCAD pretty well (used to do drafting proofreading when I was 10-11.. not a typo) so I may draw it up if need be.

Those pictures are great too. I have a 235 on a 17x8 +35ET that I -think- I can make fit pretty well. It's a short tire, so that helps a little. I don't mind adding a stop to the rack or the arms as needed, though I'm hoping not to have to limit too much as I know the MII setups widen the turning radius a little. I suppose I can always steer with the rear, haha! ;)

[85coupe50]

Nice ride.. I am about to dive into a 66 Mustang myself.

[feeble]

Car isn't done yet, but I have a MII front suspension with Wilwood Pro spindles (std height), ridetech lowers, & SPC uppers and brakes very loosely based on 13" SN95 Cobra brakes. Still need to figure out the anti-roll bar since switching to the ridetech lowers and buy the front RT coil overs.

Hoping it will handle very well.

EDIT: I'd have to look back through my designs, but if you are using SN95 brakes and a Wilwood 2" drop spindle, I may already have the caliper bracket design you need.

[digitalsolo]

I'd have to look back through my designs, but if you are using SN95 brakes and a Wilwood 2" drop spindle, I may already have the caliper bracket design you need.

That'd be super awesome!

[feeble]

I will see what I can dig up. The design I came up with uses the early Mustang drum brake hubs like the Mustang Steve kit.

[digitalsolo]

I happen to have a set of '65 drum brake 5 lug (V8) hubs in my garage. Only thing I kept from the stock front suspension. Just need to put new studs in them.

Mustang Steve's stuff is exactly why I kept them and one of the places I was looking at for brake kits. He seems to have several neat things on that site.

On a side note, a 20 ton press and a 5 lbs hammer, when combined, are great for getting 30+ year old drums off of a hub. :P

[Jedrattle]

Nice build! It looks like you've built some nice cars before. I was wondering if you could take a measurement of the front frame rails for me. I'm trying to find a front suspension for my `48 Plymouth coupe. It looks like the clips for early novas and mustangs seem like the right wms to wms but I need frame measurements (inside and outside of the frame rails) to see if it's close enough to work for me. I would be grateful. Thank you!

[manOwar]

Nice build! It looks like you've built some nice cars before. I was wondering if you could take a measurement of the front frame rails for me. I'm trying to find a front suspension for my `48 Plymouth coupe. It looks like the clips for early novas and mustangs seem like the right wms to wms but I need frame measurements (inside and outside of the frame rails) to see if it's close enough to work for me. I would be grateful. Thank you!

Maybe this will help.

[Jedrattle]

manowar.....thank you.

[Crestronwizard]

Looks good.

[digitalsolo]

That's a neat document. Jedrattle, if you need any other measurements, let me know, it's all torn down and about 10' from my couch, haha.

[digitalsolo]

I plated 2 out of 3 sides of one of the frame rails where the subframe will mount. It's tough to see but this is the inside of the frame rail and the top, which got some nice thick ties into the hoop also:



And playing with fender gap. It's way worse than this makes it look, LOL. Nothing some 1/8" filler rod and a couple hours of profanity cannot sort out at least.



I received the crossmember kit (ships unassembled, you have to "fold" it up and weld it).

My welding only moderately sucks:



Assembled, ground and mocked in place to get a look at it's position:

[nokones]

If you want to stiffen up the chassis without a cage on a Mustang, contact Mike Maier, Inc. in Livermore, CA. Mike can help you with your build.

[langleylad]

Did you get your crossmember from Paul Hortons ?

[digitalsolo]

I've looked at the Maier stuff, their subframe connectors look great.

The crossmember came from West Texas Speed. It's similar to the Paul Horton unit, just a little different in the upper/coilover mount. It's a beefy SOB though, I'm very pleased with the quality/fitment (and shipping/service for that matter). The Paul Horton Welder Series stuff looks really nice, too.