1965 Mustang Coupe Build...

[slimjim]

That must be so rewarding! congratulations

[digitalsolo]

Sweet. Big milestone. That must feel pretty good. Did it backfire when you drove out of sight?

Jay

Thanks! It's great to have driven it (after 4 years!). Still fixing some odd behavior in steering, but I think that's sorted (or mostly) now.

And yeah, it backfired on decel; the tune is SUPER rough right now and that was the first time it was driven under any load. I thought something fall off at first, LOL.

I'm finishing the electric power steering (it at least works now, just finishing the wiring for it) and the CANbus boxes that control everything. Then center console and a few other details, than I'm out of excuses for not painting it.

[andrewb70]

Hey Blake,

What did you use for your electronic steering?

Andrew

[digitalsolo]

Andrew,

It's a Koyo unit from a Saturn with a "driver" box from eBay. Works great so far in my limited testing.

Regards,

Blake

[digitalsolo]

Put some color on it!

[wfo guy]

Nice!

[JayinMI]

Put some color on it!

At first I thought it was an old GTR, because of the taillights, and I was like "Wait, wat?" lol
Coming along, looks awesome!

Jay

[andrewb70]

At first I thought it was an old GTR, because of the taillights, and I was like "Wait, wat?" lol
Coming along, looks awesome!

Jay

Jay, I thought exactly the same thing!

Looking good Blake!

Andrew

[digitalsolo]

Thanks all! I'm looking forward to getting it all assembled and the cut/buff done to clean up a few orange peel spots and some dust/crap from my makeshift booth, but overall I'm pretty happy for my first time ever shooting base/clear.

[JayinMI]

Ha! TT Coyote = no one will see the orange peel. lol

Jay

[digitalsolo]

A bit more progress.

[andrewb70]

I voting for gold center on the wheels. Would look amazing with that color.

Andrew

[digitalsolo]

You're not far off Andrew. I'm planning on bronze Konig Hypergrams. About the same color as my strut tower brace.

[rickpaw]

Nice.

[digitalsolo]

Thanks guys!

So, random fun thing I found the other day. I had jacked up the car and put the front on jack stands. What I hadn't realized was that I put the driver side stand up 1 "notch" higher.

Why is this interesting? The driver rear tire was actually pulled off the ground enough I couldn't break the lugs loose. Considering the floppy noodle this thing was when I started on it, I'm pretty excited about that outcome from a chassis rigidity standpoint. I'm very much looking forward to driving this thing in anger. :D

Currently working on color sand/buff and finishing up some electrical work; then I need to do seals/glass/trim.

[rickpaw]

Thanks guys!

So, random fun thing I found the other day. I had jacked up the car and put the front on jack stands. What I hadn't realized was that I put the driver side stand up 1 "notch" higher.

Why is this interesting? The driver rear tire was actually pulled off the ground enough I couldn't break the lugs loose. Considering the floppy noodle this thing was when I started on it, I'm pretty excited about that outcome from a chassis rigidity standpoint. I'm very much looking forward to driving this thing in anger. :D
...

I put torque boxes/sub frame connectors on my friend’s 65 fastback, and the result was similar to yours. Jack one corner up and the corner at the other end lifts up as well.

Love the work you’ve done to the car.

[digitalsolo]

I've been working on color sanding the car. Wow, that's a freaking job that is! Anyway, after using the hood/trunk as a "learning experience" I'm working on the chassis (hood/trunk had some paint problems and needed reshot anyway, not a big deal). Roof and both sail panels are done, as is the rear fill panel below the rear window (between window/trunk), the tail light panel, rear valance, driver quarter panel and driver door. The rest of the panels... are... not done. Damn. Anyway, I'm pretty happy with how they're turning out. Sanding this stuff has been a real learning experience. Here's my current system:

1. First I use a single edge razor blade to "nib" any dust/dirt/drips/runs off the clear. Hold it 90* to the panel and drag it lightly. This is way easier than it sounds and drips no longer worry me after learning how to do this. Easy-peasy.
2. For heavy orange peel panels I have a 3/32 throw random orbital with 1000 grit on a foam interface pad, I use it damp, stopping every 5-10 seconds to clean it to prevent pig tails (they are my NEMESIS).
3. After that (or if it wasn't needed on the panel in question) I use Meguiar's Unigrit 1500 on a Motorguard "Holey Terror" pad for flat areas, and tri folded by hand in tight curves/small areas. I do this VERY wet and wash the paper constantly. I clean the panels with a foam Durablock sanding block as a squeegee as it doesn't mar the paint. I clean every couple minutes to check the status and watch for any scratches that I've not cleaned out. Work diagonally and run at 90* to your previous grit.
4. Repeat step 3 with 2000 grit, 2500 grit, and 3000 grit Meguiar's Unigrit. I clean the panel often and
5. Final each panel with 3M Trizact 3000 grit foam, damp. By hand on the tight areas, on the 3/32 orbital (with foam interface pad) on the flat areas.
6. Buff with a wool pad on a rotary, using Meguiar's M105. Be careful here... you can ruin your day with a buffer, quickly. I run around speed 2-3 on edges, always running the buffer OFF the panels (so it spins OFF, not onto, the edge) and I'll run upwards of speed 4-5 on flat areas to bring a little heat into it as I go. I move at a medium speed and run the product until it dusts off, occasionally hitting it with some spray detailer to keep it wet.

I have not gone past that stage yet as I need some foam pads, but I have a Chemical Guys kit coming, with 4 levels of foam pads and 4 levels of compound/polish. I'll be going over everything with an orbital polisher and whatever compounds/polishes/pads I find to work best. I have Yellow/Orange/White/Black pads and V32-V34-V36-V38 en route, so I figure that ought to cover my needs.

I will say the paint looks better in pictures than in real life. If you get in close and at the right angle, there are small scratches here and there from sanding, and there are some waves/imperfections, but this is literally the fist time I've done any major body work, including all the metal work/panel refitting/hammer-dolly/etc, and my first time shooting base/clear and my first time polishing a car properly (I tried to polish my old RX7 on a ****ty paint job, but that did NOT go well, hahaha). Considering body shops wanted 20-25k to do the body/paint, and most wanted 7-8k dollars just to shoot and cut/buff it, I'm content with what I've got here I think.

Anyway, on to the photos! The specs and stuff on the reflection shot of me aren't paint issues, it's just compounding dust.

[andrewb70]

For a DIY paint job, that looks pretty awesome.

Andrew

[slimjim]

Kudos for doing it yourself, I'm doing the same on a lesser level, taking care of a lot of body work myself to bring the cost down. It's not that I have a problem with what they're charging for paint + body, it's a crazy amount of work and I have a whole lot more respect for the process, and if I had a car that just needed a respray then I'd happily pay it, but building a car from top to bottom, for me it get's a little hard to tack on another 25k+ for paint and body(especially when I have a lot of free time)

[digitalsolo]

Thanks guys!

Here's a quick video update on status:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpVlHrE1X6Q