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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by digitalsolo View Post
    LOL, I -knew- someone would say something about the stereo hole! Hahaha!

    The wiring work is so tedious, since I'm basically double/triple checking all of it, but at the end of the day, that's what tends to fail and leave you stranded, so doing it right the first time is just so worthwhile.

    I'm really, really excited to have power in the chassis. This car last ran in the early 80s from what I've been able to discern, so it's kinda neat to me to see systems "wake up" on it as I finish things. I really do hope to have the electrical systems functional by the end of this coming weekend (June 9-10).

    A few other little details that aren't immediately noticeable; all VR sensors are twisted pairs to minimize noise, and the crank sensor is shielded with a mesh and a drain. Hopefully that keeps noise at a minimum on the critical systems.
    I was also wondering if having your coil ignitors inside the car, in close-ish proximity will cause radiated noise/degraded radio reception when you put audio in the car. Someone always comments on cut radio openings...if you're already putting quarters or floors in a car, doesn't seem like fixing a radio opening would be a big deal. lol

    Jay

  2. #202
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    I hadn't considered the radio/coil igniter proximity. That's a very valid point. I'll keep an eye on that. I will say that for my needs, the stereo will basically always be playing MP3s anyway, I basically never listen to the radio. As long as I don't induce noise into the speakers, I should be okay from that perspective. Hmmm.... always another detail, haha.

    I did complete some work last night; engine harness <-> PCM wiring is all terminated and I added all the I/O from the ECU. I need to replace the clutch master (it's leaking... grr) and then get the power wiring sorted out, then I can move on to the next thing... LOL.
    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune

  3. #203
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    I've been doing car audio/security/accessories for the past 24 years. I always think of things like that. It's getting close to the Woodward Dream Cruise, so we are seeing an influx of classic cars with hacked wiring that people always seem to be OK with until it causes a problem. That's one of the reasons I really like this build...you are doing your wiring right (and the Arduino type stuff/custom BCM is pretty sweet too.)

    I wasn't sure how far you were going with the audio system, but if you do something like component speakers (midrange/tweeter with a crossover) try to keep the crossovers as far from the ignitors as possible. Those, HID ballasts and things like MSD ignitions are notorious for causing noise...usually getting induced/radiated in through the crossover.

    Jay

  4. #204
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    Jay,

    I very much appreciate the tips! I do plan on some component speakers (eventually). I'll make sure the crossovers are well away from the ignitors, and the same with routing of the RCA cables (which I can always shield with a drain if need be).

    I've got LED lights everywhere, so those at least aren't particularly noisy.

    On the ECU wiring front, it doesn't look like a lot of progress, but it really is... I have a video made that I need to edit/upload to YouTube still also, but here's where we stand on the grind:

    All engine harness wiring is validated, and all of it that runs to the AEM ECU is completed patched and dressed in.
    All engine harness wiring that doesn't run to the ECU is identified and tested (not terminated or dressed in). This is some of the wiring you see hanging out of the gauge hole by the steering column. Things like gauge senders, AC compressor, trinary switch, etc.
    All ECU I/O wires are installed and documented, and run up to where the gauge wiring, etc. is. This is the rest of the wiring by the steering column.
    All ECU and engine power wiring is extended to roughly where it goes and identified, but not fully terminated yet.

    Overall:

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    Wiring mostly dressed in and secured:

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    All in all, lots of progress. I have 2 more evenings and all day Saturday/Sunday to keep at it, so I'm still hoping to be testing gauge senders, DBW systems, etc. by the end of the weekend. If it goes VERY well, I'll get the HVAC stuff put back in, install fuel lines, mount the fuel tank, install air systems, install cooling system, oil the motor up, and test fire it. That's a big ass list, though, so I'll keep plodding forward towards the end goal.

    And then.... tear the body down for final bodywork touch up and PAINT! And glass! And weatherstripping! And.. oy, that's a lotta crap left to do.
    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune

  5. #205
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    Blake,

    Are you using the BMW spec tape for the harness?

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
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    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  6. #206
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    It's high heat Tesa tape. I'm not sure if it's specifically any OE spec though.
    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by digitalsolo View Post
    It's high heat Tesa tape. I'm not sure if it's specifically any OE spec though.
    Tesa cloth tape was originally Bosch OE spec for O2 sensor wire harnesses up through ~ 2000.

  8. #208
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    Yep I dig it, but they make a few different tapes, so I'm not sure if the specific one I'm using is a grade that any OE spec'd. It's way nicer than working with vinyl tape though!
    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by digitalsolo View Post
    It's high heat Tesa tape. I'm not sure if it's specifically any OE spec though.
    Quote Originally Posted by JustJohn View Post
    Tesa cloth tape was originally Bosch OE spec for O2 sensor wire harnesses up through ~ 2000.
    I'm not a big fan of using the cloth tape like digitalsolo is using in wet environs, it soaks up water. The Exterior tape is different.

    Quote Originally Posted by digitalsolo View Post
    Yep I dig it, but they make a few different tapes, so I'm not sure if the specific one I'm using is a grade that any OE spec'd. It's way nicer than working with vinyl tape though!
    They make all kinds of tapes and body protection films. I use a lot of 3/4" and 3/8" cloth tape on interior harnesses when I do high end audio jobs. I also have used their exterior tape on some engine compartment stuff. It's denser and you need to cut it (It won't just rip easily.) I haven't used it yet, but they also have an adhesive "tape" that you can use to tape door edges, jambs, etc. so you don't scratch the paint when you're working on the car.

    Check this place out. He has some good examples of their products.

    https://www.ecwid.com/store/tesajkstore/

    Jay

  10. #210
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    Yep ^

    For what it's worth, my engine bay side wiring uses Kapton tape to hold the wires in bundles under the heat shrink/flex wrap.

    Here's a quick video update of my progress up to yesterday:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXqMjhv-zJI
    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune

  11. #211
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    Well, the pile of wiring in the dash continues to grow, but I'm making good progress. The engine systems are all wired up to the ECU and the fusebox, and the fusebox is in turn wired up to main power distribution. I need to build an umbilical from the main PDU to the battery in the trunk to power up the chassis itself still, as well as run the leads for flex fuel, ignition signal, brake switch signal, CANbus (for my body control modules) fuel level and fuel pump signal back to the rear of the car in that trunk as well. Hoping to get that sorted this week.

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    The dash at least doesn't look like it's covered in colorful spaghetti anymore:

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    And the trunk area is starting to come along. battery mount is... mounted, battery is in place, fuel tank is bolted in (and sealed to the body with a closed cell foam gasket) and the misc. filters/flex fuel sensors/fuel pump wiring is in place. Next up is finishing a few hoses (need a couple fittings) and wiring it all up properly.

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    Slowly but surely...
    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune

  12. #212
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    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune

  13. #213
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    Kool!

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by digitalsolo View Post
    Sounds awesome man! you're first start-up went Waaaay better than mine(and my 2nd and 3rd, lol). I'm a big fan of all the work your doing and the attention to detail is a great benchmark for what I strive for(but often miss). Keep up the good work, I'll be following in hopes of seeing more cool techniques.

    BTW, also big fan of arduino. I have a LP lift pump to a 1L surge bottle that feeds to Walbro. I found while dialing in my VE tables that as I would cruise to my test zone the HP pump would circulate into the surge tank and heat up, significantly(but not dangerously or anything), the first high load pull use the hot fuel but the second and and sometimes third would mix in a bunch of “cooler” fuel and have me chasing VE values-not a ton mind you,, but several percentages.

    So my fix for now is for my Arduino Uno to poll the MAP sensor and if below 75kPA(this may change), then PWM the pump down to 50%. Each time the pressure goes above, it will set the PWM to 100% for about 45 seconds(anticipating more hoonigan behavior).

    It also does minor things like read the fuel sensor and report the value on a stepper motor.

    Man was I proud of myself when I made this thing- wires organized, labled, properly bolted down,,etc…but in the pic below it doesn’t look all the great. Sigh, anyway, just thought I’d share.
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    Last edited by jetmech442; 06-25-2018 at 12:25 PM. Reason: Uno not NANO

    1969 442 6.0L LQ9 T56
    Fab9 w/ custom 3 Link conversion
    FAYS2 Watts link
    Thanks to Mark at SC&C for his honesty and passion for the sport, and Ron Sutton for the wealth of knowledge that has helped shape so many of the cars on this site.

  15. #215
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    That's super cool jetmech! I just love how many novel things that Arduino and similar microcontrollers can do in an automotive setting. I just got my BCM control boards back from fabrication and assembled the first one. I need to sit down and test it and see if it works, haha.

    I'll be sharing out all of my body control module code and circuit designs/Gerber CAD files so if you ever want to play with it, my work is always open source. I figure much smarter people than me can do impressive stuff with a little bit of a start. Someone built a cool AEM simulator with some of my gauge code.

    I'll get some updates on all my progress shortly.
    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune

  16. #216
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    Another quick video update. Had to redo the cooling system piping due to some leaks, so it's all AN fittings now. Lower fittings need tightened a little bit, but my wrench didn't fit so I'll fab a new wrench.



    https://youtu.be/0Fqog1Isfk8
    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune


  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by digitalsolo View Post
    ...my wrench didn't fit so I'll fab a new wrench.
    Sure. Why not. LOL Sounds like you need an AN fitting adjustable wrench!
    That's the best quote I've heard in a while.

    Jay

  18. #218
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    LOL, if you have the tools... I just opened up an existing (XRP) 20AN wrench about .125 in my benchtop mill to fit my Fragola fittings (my old car had BMRS fittings that the XRP wrench fit). :D
    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune

  19. #219
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    Relatively big update!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R8hyojn2p0

    Annnnd, working tail lights!

    https://youtu.be/CkUE5RO9tJA
    1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
    1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, big brakes, suspension. Basically a large car shaped hole in the ground I throw money into.
    2013 Focus ST - Daily Driver - FRPP Tune

  20. #220
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    Sweet. Big milestone. That must feel pretty good. Did it backfire when you drove out of sight?

    Jay

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