67-69 LSx header spy shot...... ???

[TitoJones]

Some of you still don't understand the whole header design. Drag racers want peak HP, and a top end to really open up the car. Don't know about you, but I'm building my car for the other track. The one that sees every single gear multiple times, goes through 1500 rpm all the way to 6900 rpm, and everything in between. I want a header that makes power through the entire power band, not just the top.

DISCLAIMER:

The ATS Tri-Y header is not for MOST people. It is for road racers, who take their car to the track, and need to get the most power out of their combo's. The fitment of these headers is second to none. The steering box can be removed with th headers IN THE CAR, and can be installed in under 6 minutes. They are as off the shelf as you can get, with a custom made part.

Pricing-
Yody, go price out a set of custom made stainless headers that will fit like these will, and you'd be floored how much you'd spend.

I call on PHR to to some header tests on a new LS7. We'll throw down a complete exhaust from heads to tips to go head to head with S&P and Stainless Works. It may not be quite 40hp, but it will be significant.
Tyler

[SatisTraction]

actually i want all the HP under the curve that i can get. peaky HP with a narrow power band equals a slow car. ever heard the term dyno queen? i would love to see a dyno comparison with ANY long tube header. why dont you hit up futral motor sports and see if they would be interested in carring your product? they are very large in the LS1 area.

tell you what. screw the dyno. take a car to the track with some of your headers. make a few rounds. swap them with some "other" headers and let us know the time. this is one case where a drag strip would give you a better representation. a drag car is about pure power and does not give a crap about turning. if you make more power then you will finish with the best time. 40 HP would be good for about .5 seconds in the 1/4 on a stock engine.

oh, and price would not be that big of a deal if you actually make 40 hp over the other headers. people bolt on heads and dont get 40 hp on a ls1

[yody]

I say this because for the right price, anyone can have a custom set of headers like these ATS ones for their car, this is not something new. What the advantage to these headers would be, is if you could get them off the shelf for a better price, then a 1 off header

Tyler, I said that I know how much custom headers cost. They are really expensive. What I said is that, your headers look really good, but for them to be a deal, they would have to be a little cheaper and an off the shelf item for them to be competitive or worth the money.

[TitoJones]

Tyler, I said that I know how much custom headers cost. They are really expensive. What I said is that, your headers look really good, but for them to be a deal, they would have to be a little cheaper and an off the shelf item for them to be competitive or worth the money.

Ah, I misunderstood.
Yes, they will be cheaper than going to a fabricator and having a 1 off set made, as we have a jig to remake these all day long. But, we don't keep them on the shelf, like I said earlier, we need to get lots of info on your engine package to build a set for you, and have the client spec out the material they are fab'ed in.
Tyler

[yody]

sounds like a good deal, can't wait to see them at sema, if if they aren't 40HP more(which i kinda doubt) they look like a quality set of headers with excellent ground clearance. gonna make them for a 454 in a firebired???

[68protouring454]

if you have jig, then how come someone else is making them for you??
jake

[yody]

You say they fit really good and such but with what primary tube size? even with a 1 7/8"?

[TitoJones]

if you have jig, then how come someone else is making them for you??
jake

Mostly because we haven't hired a fabricator yet, and I can't TIG weld. We have the guy who fab'ed them up make the headers for us, because they will be exactly like the first set, and that boy can lay out some insane welds.

You say they fit really good and such but with what primary tube size? even with a 1 7/8"?

Cody- The headers in the pic are 1-7/8" tunes, stepped to a 2", then stepped to a 2-1/8" and finally to a 3-1/2" collector.
We do it that way so that if you stuff the biggest tube into the car and it fits perfect, all the other ones you build that are smaller than these will have even more clearance.
Will this shut you up for a while until SEMA?


Tyler

[yody]

hey! what about that ............................ hmmmm.................................okay good enough

[EFI69Cam]

How well do the seals on the collector pipe junctions work? I thought injected cars needed the headers welded to keep air out so the O2S could work right.

If the tab and bolt junctions work, maybe I can put a merge collector on my headers.

[TitoJones]

The Burns pieces we buy are hand sanded to fit very tight. The fabricator has not had any leaking issues with the mateials used.

Tyler

[Blown353]

The Burns pieces we buy are hand sanded to fit very tight. The fabricator has not had any leaking issues with the mateials used.

Tyler

I can also vouch for Burn's work on the merge slip joints. I've dealt with a lot of their headers and the fit is top notch. Never experienced one that leaked. However these were on open Pro-Stock headers on the dyno.

Steve's observation that if they do leak upstream of your O2 sensor which will skew A/F readings is a valid point. I'll agree that if they did leak that would cause problems; the Burns slip-togethers that I have played with all had individual wideband sensors about 6" from the exhaust ports, so there wasn't a worry about leaks in the joints affecting A/F ratios.

Tyler, the headers look good. Glad to see someone doing it RIGHT.

Troy

[TitoJones]

Tyler, the headers look good. Glad to see someone doing it RIGHT.

Troy-
Thank you. The stigma behind everything we do here at ATS is to make it like it was going on our own cars. (Most of the stuff we make, comes from our own cars.) We don't cut corners, and we are trying to stick to making every single part we make a bolt in, with no welding or extra fab work required.



Tyler