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    Results 121 to 140 of 217

    Thread: 70 Formula 535

    1. #121
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      N. Scottsdale
      Posts
      376
      Country Flag: United States
      I understand that DSE recommends 5.5" back space for the rear wheels, but I decided to double check with the Wheel Works tool I borrowed from MCB. It looks to me like 5.75 might work a little better with respect to the quarter lip. But wondering if I'm too close to rubbing anywhere on the inside? Worst case is that I'll need .25" spacers. Thoughts?



















    2. #122
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Sulphur, La
      Posts
      598
      Looks like it will rub going in driveways, etc. I'd still go with that and spacers though.

    3. #123
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      N. Scottsdale
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      376
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm hoping more of you will chime in about the back space issue before I pull the trigger.

      It's now a toss up between Forgeline's GA3C or GA1R. I really like the look of the GA1R, but not sure how a one piece wheel would look on an older car or if it's even available with this much negative offset.

    4. #124
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Jersey Shore
      Posts
      695
      Country Flag: United States
      Take the springs out and cycle the suspension and see if it hits... I run less clearance than that on our shop car with a drag radial and you can see where the tire kisses the leaf spring on hard corners (this car is not really a corner carver) A floater rear and stiff sidewall tires will lessen your "un-measureable" wheel/tire movement. Id run it with the 5.75" if it meant no or lesser chance of it running into the fender lip.
      Cars lookin' good!
      -Chris
      '69 Corvette
      '55 Chevy Hardtop
      AutoWorks Middletown, NJ
      @autoworksnj for corvette and shop car pics
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...e-Build-Thread

    5. #125
      Join Date
      Mar 2007
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      2,391
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Alponcho View Post
      The dash panel you made looks terrific. Really like the carbon fiber look. However, I decided to use a really nice engine turned dash bezel I picked up recently. It's in great shape and it looks right in a Pontiac. The only negative is that it's from a later TA and has the radial tuned suspension emblem. I've only done restorations and so I'm used to being a stickler for correctness, but as I make more progress, I'm sure I'll get over it. I think I'll used Speedhut gauges. They should fit well and are customizable so I can try to mimic factory colors. I'll go with GPS speedo with fuel level, tach, battery, oil pressure and engine temp. I think I'll set up the dash panel like an A/C car, with the two holes on the right reserved for vents (I'm going to use Vintage Air). I plan on skipping the vents under the steering wheel and glove box.





      With respect to brakes, I'd definitely consider manual...would be simpler and less expensive. Just don't know if I would regret it given that the majority of time will be street/highway. What drove your choice?

      My wheel of choice right now is 18" Forgeline GA3.

      One more thing, why do I need to be very careful about valve stem placement?
      Sorry I didn't see this^ a while back.

      I went manual brakes because I lost power brakes on track once on the front straight at PBIR and was both feet in full force as soon as I realized "NO BRAKES!". Luckily I got the car slowed enough to only go 2 wheels off but it was a scary moment. Also I can save a few lbs. For a street car not such a big deal as you're not going from full throttle to threshold braking with a corner quickly approaching.

      You need to watch valve stem stuff because it's popular to have hidden valve stems now and with big brakes there often isn't enough space between caliper and rim for standard valve stem. I now have 18" Rushforths and Baer 14" rotors. I had to get special super short valve stems.

      I didn't look back through this thread to see what rear you're running or if mini tubbed. I had 5.75 backspacing on my old 17 X 11" rear wheels with 315's. Only time I got a very light rub (on the inner fender by the shock) was on track if I hit the corner curbing too hard at high speed on one corner at Sebring and one corner at Road Atlanta. No problems driving on street. I didn't have rolled fender lips and no problem with tire rub on lip (at that ride height) but if I'd gone with 5.5" backspacing I think the 315 35 17's would have rubbed. Pic below with the 315 17's on 17 X11" with 5.75" backspacing and a 10 bolt 2nd gen rear.

      Last edited by NOT A TA; 11-13-2018 at 09:09 PM.

    6. #126
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Location
      Kansas
      Posts
      54
      Country Flag: United States
      Love the build, I am a huge Pontiac fan. I think you will be fine on the clearance, but as it has been pointed out already, I would cycle the rearend through it's travel and look for any interference.

      Looks great!

      You also asked early on about what direction to go. I say do what you personally like. I went pretty extreme on my 67 Firebird with flares and other body mods, some like it, some say I destroyed a classic. Build the car you will enjoy.

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    7. #127
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      N. Scottsdale
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      376
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      I saw photos of your '67 in the other thread...very cool ride! I like that it's still Pontiac powered. Is it carousel red?

      It's funny you mention that some say you destroyed a classic. Half of my Pontiac friends react the same way about my project--they're into factory correct cars and #'s and so forth. The other half are into drag racing, and although they're not bothered by the modifications, they seem just as confused about what I'm trying to do.

    8. #128
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      N. Scottsdale
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      376
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      Just got word that Forgeline cannot do the one-piece monoblock with the back space I need for the rears. I thought maybe they could do a deep concave to deal with the negative offset, but I guess not.

      I will not be ordering a new rear end, so three-piece it is. The bright side is that with fewer choices now, my decision making will be a lot easier.

    9. #129
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      N. Scottsdale
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      376
      Country Flag: United States
      Also, for an 18X12 one piece wheel, they said the min is 7.28". So if my calculations are correct, it looks one would need a rear end and axles at least 60" WMS to WMS.

    10. #130
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,821
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      As mentioned above, cycling the suspension should help show if fully compressed on one side, fully extended on the other will cause inner rubbing. From a practical standpoint, mine has about 1" inner clearance and will lightly rub when entering a steep driveway sideways, like entering a gas station and going up/over the sidewalk. The uphill wheel compresses, the downhill wheel is in the gutter.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    11. #131
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      N. Scottsdale
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      376
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      Forgeline has a new wheel that, if the right finishes were selected, would look like a Pontiac Rally 2. https://forgeline.com/wheel/jo3c/. It's not one of their most expensive wheels, but I suspect the custom finishing required would add up (probably something like brushed outer hoop, satin gunmetal center with hyper silver center in the raised areas, and custom center cap of course).

      My Pontiac buddies here are encouraging me to go in this direction, and part of me thinks this would be cool. But I've always thought retro wheels are tough to pull off without looking a little hokey and would limit the appeal of the car whenever I decide to let it go.

      Wondering what this community thinks.

    12. #132
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
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      N. Scottsdale
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      I cycled the suspension and adjusted the ride height to get it closer to where I think I'll be. Once I did this I could see where I might get some rubbing on the inside and concluded that 5.5" backspace is the best compromise. Will need to roll the lip on each quarter, but would need to do this even if I went with 5.75".

      I also made my wheel decision and placed the order....GA3 with hyper silver hoops and satin graphite centers. I like the matte graphite finish better but I live on a gravel road and matte is tough to clean. I'm so glad to get this decision behind me. Though, I still have to approve the sales order from Forgeline, so technically I have some more time to think about it.

      Car looks so much better at this ride height...though now I have to go back and make some adjustments to the tail pipes. Pretty much ready for a visit from the header guy!

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    13. #133
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      Jul 2013
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      N. Scottsdale
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      I spent some time tweaking the tail pipes so that they fit without making contact with the fuel tank and panhard bar. I will still need to take it to an exhaust shop at the end of the project because it's still too tight in places, but at least I could fit the mufflers and the rest of the exhaust to get an idea of where the headers need to end up.

      I noticed that the exhaust will hang about 1.5" below the bottom of the subframe. Do I need to get it up higher? The header guy is really busy right now and not available until the 3rd week of January, so I still have time to make adjustments. I decided to go with mild steel and ceramic coating. From my research, should stay a bit cooler than stainless and a lot less expensive.

      We also finished the .25" spacers to get the engine aligned and oil pan off the steering rack.

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    14. #134
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Orlando, FL
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      1,073
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      You can flatten the spot under the rear seats to get the mufflers up a little higher...
      SMSgt Ty Ingle, USAF
      "CF71" - Freedom Bird
      Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR Performance, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST

    15. #135
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
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      N. Scottsdale
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      No updates this week. Though, I did receive two large boxes from Forgeline yesterday. I'm going to wait to open them until Christmas.

      What are folks running for lug nuts? I'm thinking open ended spline, but don't know if that's a good idea.

    16. #136
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
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      2,410
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      Quote Originally Posted by Alponcho View Post
      No updates this week. Though, I did receive two large boxes from Forgeline yesterday. I'm going to wait to open them until Christmas.

      What are folks running for lug nuts? I'm thinking open ended spline, but don't know if that's a good idea.
      Usually we use the Gorilla closed end spline drive with shank. Forgeline sells lug nuts too.

      -Dale
      SchwartzPerformance
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    17. #137
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Austin, Tx
      Posts
      495
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      I have used these for a few years with my Forgelines and really like them:

      Muteki Lug Nuts

      I believe it was Steilow who originally suggested them once upon a time...
      Bryan (a.k.a. Carbuff)

      70 Camaro RS Hunk'o'Metal - Previous Project
      71 Firebird Project T.O.W. - New Project

    18. #138
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      N. Scottsdale
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      376
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      Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't specify the type of lug nut seat in my order, is the cone/taper shape Forgeline's default or do they use ball/spherical?

    19. #139
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      N. Scottsdale
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      376
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      I'm pretty happy with how the wheels turned out. The satin graphite centers look a little darker in photos than they do in person. I had Forgeline paint the embossed logo on the center cap to add a subtle contrasting element. I wanted to do something custom, but couldn't decide and concluded my $$ was better spent elsewhere. Was going to have the tires mounted...I can't wait to see what they look like on the car...but I guess I should wait for brakes so I can check to make sure everything clears. I don't expect any problems, but I would hate to pay to have the tires mounted and then dismounted if I have to send the wheels back to get rebuilt.

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      Header guy is coming to build my headers on Jan 10. Apparently he does custom exhaust too, so I'm hopeful he'll be able to do something with the tailpipes.

      Between now and then, my '67 GTO will be getting some love. I need to get the windows aligned better, replace the 4x10" dash speaker, deal with hard brake issue, install new mufflers to quite a drone, and possibly replace the noisy HR lifters.

    20. #140
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      N. Scottsdale
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      Header guy did a great job today. Plenty of clearance all the way around. Easy access to the header bolts. He also was able to tuck them up pretty high...higher than the bottom of the bell. He told me he could definitely address the issues with the exhaust, so I'll bring it to him after everything else is wrapped up...hopefully late summer early fall.

      We're going to haul the car to the chassis shop in the next week or so, and after that it goes back to Randy to finish body and paint.


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