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Thread: 70 Formula 535

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Toronto
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    1,469

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    Beautiful work on that bird....

    Carbon Kustoms Limited
    A.K.A. Albert from Toronto


  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    N. Scottsdale
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    233
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    I can't believe it's been a year since I posted an update on my Firebird project. I slowed things down because we're knee deep in building a new home, and my time, attention, and resources have been pouring into that.

    The car has been blocked and looks great. We'll install the subframe and weld in the SFC next week. Then I'll take the car to my friend's shop where well begin to mock everything up. The close ratio T56 Magnum arrived yesterday. I'll order the center section, axles and brakes later this week. Once it's a roller we'll take it to the chassis shop for some mods to the roll bar to stiffen things up a bit more.

    I can't decide whether to stick to the original carousel red (hugger orange) or go with a more modern orange red color. The original color looks pretty good on the bumper.






  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Highland Village, TX
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    104
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    I like that Orange... Of course I'm slightly biased...
    Ron -
    1970 Mach1
    440 RWHP, 428 RWTQ
    Calypso Coral, 357W, T5Z 5-speed,
    Edelbrock 454 17x8 Wheels, 255x40x17 rear, 215x45x17 front, Bridgestone Potenza RE-71, TCP Coilovers Front, Global West Del-A-Lum Bushings,Global West Adj. Strut Rods, Wilwood Discs All around

  4. #44
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    Jul 2013
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    N. Scottsdale
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    233
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    I've never seen carousel red side by side with calypso coral...wonder how they compare?

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    H-Town, TX
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    278
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    I would go with the factory color. Seems like you have put in a lot of effort to look like the car could have come from the factory like this- high end metallic paint is going to give it a custom look.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    N. Scottsdale
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    233
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    I held off with the center section purchase because I can't decide on gear ratio…I think 3.50 is a nice compromise. The 535 will produce a ton of tq early and the curve will be very flat….

    The pics I posted the other day were before the car was blocked. Here's some photos of the car after a about 60 hours of sanding.






  7. #47
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Gilbert, AZ
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    934
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    Looking good! It's getting to the fun part now!

    What transmission are you running? The 71 Chevelle I built with a 454, I left the stock gearing in for awhile, and it was a great highway gear. I didn't realize till I checked later on, but it was a sub-3.00:1 gear ratio, 2.7:1 maybe! Yet it was still a blast, and a nice highway car. Torque goes a LONG way in making highway gears doable. I'd say a 535 would make 3.50's fun still.
    Josh Campbell- Pushing the limits of my HOA since 2011
    71 Firebird- 455, Ridetech front suspension. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...04#post1124504
    67 Camaro RS/SS clone, Speedtech front suspension, coilovers, soon to get LT1/T56.
    82 Z28- cheapie beater, soon to get a 406.
    66 Mustang coupe- 393, T-5, sold. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-Coupe-GT393-C

  8. #48
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    Jul 2013
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    N. Scottsdale
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    Thanks Josh. Going with close ratio T56 Magnum. Considered long ratio, but I thought first gear would be unusable.

    Question, we're assembling the new subframe and I'm wondering if I can go ahead and weld the subframe connectors (DSE) to the subframe now or should I wait until until the engine and transmission are in the car? It's on the rack and all squared up.


  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    N. Scottsdale
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    The front suspension went together quickly. I bought the kit before the Torrington bearings were standard, but DSE was kind enough to send me some. The only thing that surprised me is that the upper ball joint is secured by a Nylock nut rather than a castle nut and cotter pin...there are no cotter pin holes in the ball joint studs so I'm assuming this is correct.


  10. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    St. Pete FL
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    904
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    You can use a top lock if concerned about the nylock. Just make sure it is grade c or better.


    https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...ck+nut+grade+c
    HELP!!!
    1973 TA 4 spd #'s match red/white = STOLEN
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...55#post1106255

  11. #51
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Tulsa, OK
    Posts
    106

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    Yes Nylock nuts are pretty much the standard now, and not reusable once removed. Takes away the possible failure of the hole thru the studs.

    1980 Z/28 383, Vortec heads, 2004R 342.1 powertrac
    1971 Firebird on rotisserie
    2006 Dodge Daytona Charger
    "Torred" # 1988 of 2000
    2013 Hot Wheels Edition 2 SS Camaro
    "I'm Not a Gynecologist, but I'll Take a Look"

  12. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Boise ID
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    97
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    [QUOTE=Alponcho;1191888]The front suspension went together quickly. I bought the kit before the Torrington bearings were standard, but DSE was kind enough to send me some. The only thing that surprised me is that the upper ball joint is secured by a Nylock nut rather than a castle nut and cotter pin...there are no cotter pin holes in the ball joint studs so I'm assuming this is correct.

    Entire build ooks awesome!!! Regarding your comment on the Torrington bearing.... how do I determine if mine recent purchase (earlier this year) included these? Thanks!!
    Have a great day!!
    John

    My build thread:
    https://www.pro-touring.com/members/36672-Goosesdad

  13. #53
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    N. Scottsdale
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    233
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    [QUOTE=Goosesdad;1191900]
    Quote Originally Posted by Alponcho View Post
    The front suspension went together quickly. I bought the kit before the Torrington bearings were standard, but DSE was kind enough to send me some. The only thing that surprised me is that the upper ball joint is secured by a Nylock nut rather than a castle nut and cotter pin...there are no cotter pin holes in the ball joint studs so I'm assuming this is correct.

    Entire build ooks awesome!!! Regarding your comment on the Torrington bearing.... how do I determine if mine recent purchase (earlier this year) included these? Thanks!!
    Thanks! I bought mine unassembled so I noticed when I inventoried the small bags of parts. If you bought yours assembled, just look under the coil spring.

  14. #54
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    Jul 2013
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    N. Scottsdale
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    My friend and I hauled the car to his garage where we'll mock everything up. We'll assemble the engine here as well. It didn't occur to me that the factory Pontiac rally wheels and lug nuts wouldn't fit on the car...D'oh! We found a couple space saver wheels that we reversed then had to go the local ACE hardware store for 12mm 1.5 pitch nuts. Guess I'll be ordering wheels and tires sooner than I thought. Thinking about GA3s with brushed lip and titanium (or maybe a shade or two lighter) center.


  15. #55
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    N. Scottsdale
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    Mated the T56 to a block my friend had lying around and installed it in the car. Needed some room in the tunnel and had to "adjust" the floor a little so that the Bowler crossmember would fit. Turned out well I think. I was worried that the block would end to being too close to the firewall, but it looks like there will be plenty of room.










  16. #56
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    2

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    Man this car has come along really nice keep up the good work ..

  17. #57
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    Jul 2013
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    N. Scottsdale
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    Things have slowed down a bit over the last couple months.

    I bought a center section from Strange, but was sent axles that were too short. I remeasured, and they sent me new ones, which I thought were closer to the correct lengths, so I had the bearings pressed on, but now the offsets are different by almost .25", and with the bearing in the axle housings the brake offsets are less than the 2.5" I asked for. Any thoughts on what happened?

    I'm about ready to give up trying to figure this out myself. I may just bring the whole assembly to the differential shop and let them set it up.



    One of the front shocks started leaking fluid. So now I have to take it apart and send it back to DSE to have it checked out and rebuilt. Anyone have this problem with one of their JRi shocks?

    I bought the Pypes exhaust for the DSE equipped 2nd gen cars. Even if it needs tweaking, I think it's better than starting from scratch. We'll see.

    I bought an Ididit column. Had them powder coat it. It took forever to get here, I think I was told the ignition switch was on back order...but it's a really nice looking unit.

    I need to order my fuel tank from Rick's. He was a huge help back in the fall when I was looking into it. -- I'm going with the ZL1 pump assembly and Vaporworx set-up to work with the Fast EZ EFI I'll be using.

    What's really been slowing me down is my other project. Should be done in about 3 months. The family is getting excited about moving in. I'm hoping to be able to finish the Formula in the detached garage shop.


  18. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    355

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    I used the Pypes system for DSE cars on mine and am running a 535. It fit fairly well but might yet need a little tweaking on one or two spots. Still well worth the money just to get it to the point that it is already. I'm hoping to get the car done by spring but am always waiting on someone to send me parts. It's close now...

  19. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Bakersfield, CA
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    118
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    Looking great! I wish I could afford one of those blocks!
    http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
    1969 Pontiac Firebird
    w/BP 461ci stroker kit, 670 heads & XE274H cam. Primer black w/black interior.
    1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

  20. #60
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Sweden
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    880
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    beautiful project! Love it!

    No water channels in that block?

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