95 OCD Mustang Cobra #1 Contender

[andrewb70]

Why are you making the tank bigger? It is already 22 gallons, which is pretty big. Are you going to run endurance races?

Also, the major difference between the early and the 03-04 Cobra rear ends is the use of 31 spline differential and axles in the later rear ends.



Andrew

[PANTYEATR]

Why are you making the tank bigger? It is already 22 gallons, which is pretty big. Are you going to run endurance races?

Also, the major difference between the early and the 03-04 Cobra rear ends is the use of 31 spline differential and axles in the later rear ends.

Andrew

thanks for your question Andrew,

they tank has a window of 18 - 22 gallons. what determines the window is if you are gonna have the exhaust cut-outs or not. I have the exhaust cut-outs cause I'm running the exhaust out the back as normal, which make my tank 18 gallons. now if I was running side exhaust, I wouldn't need the cut-outs and I would have the full 22 gallon capacity.

I'm increasing the capacity because when I drive from NY to FL I don't want to have to fill up so many times and I don't want to fill up so often when I'm home doing normal driving. running endurance races would be cool, I haven't thought of it, but if I decide to do so, the tank will be there.

yes, you are right about the cobra IRS rear ends, but did you know it's only 31-spline on the diff carrier end and still only 28-spline on the hub end? the only thing that breaks these IRSs is soft bushings and parts moving too much or not enough. once you upgrade it with full tilt boogie stuff you are good with any 99-04 IRS.... until you put slicks on it and 800+WHP.

[andrewb70]

I know more about the Cobra rear ends that the average person. I used to be into RX7s and have used the Cobra rear ends. I really hate how the Cobra rear attaches to the cradle. If I was you, I would look into using a rear cover from an Explorer and fabrication a mount that takes advantage of the big mounting bosses in the Explorer cover. That will eliminate the common failure points that you speak of...

Andrew

[PANTYEATR]

I know more about the Cobra rear ends that the average person. I used to be into RX7s and have used the Cobra rear ends. I really hate how the Cobra rear attaches to the cradle. If I was you, I would look into using a rear cover from an Explorer and fabrication a mount that takes advantage of the big mounting bosses in the Explorer cover. That will eliminate the common failure points that you speak of...

Andrew

I will have all the full tilt boogie equipment for the IRS. what do you think about their stuff? will I need this explorer cover if I'm using all of full tilt boogie's stuff?

I also planned on getting the ford racing girdle for the IRS diff which is beefier than the stock piece. is that ok?

[andrewb70]

I will have all the full tilt boogie equipment for the IRS. what do you think about their stuff? will I need this explorer cover if I'm using all of full tilt boogie's stuff?

I also planned on getting the ford racing girdle for the IRS diff which is beefier than the stock piece. is that ok?

It looks like Full Tilt has some nice parts. I am sure that if you don't try to drag race the car, their upgraded diff cover will work fine.

Andrew

[PANTYEATR]

It looks like Full Tilt has some nice parts. I am sure that if you don't try to drag race the car, their upgraded diff cover will work fine.

Andrew

yes, they have some great parts and customer service. the videos on youtube are cool too. i want to over build the IRS even tho i'll never mount slicks on it. i want to build it so i can beat on it and it won't cry...

[Sicarius428]

There are a couple differences. 03-04 had 31 spline on both side and the 99-01 only had 31 spline on one side. The 03-04 also had a reinforced diff brace for the front of the diff that the 99-01 lacked. The 03-04 also sports 3:55 gears. I would suggest mounting the IRS cradle as solid as possible, even with delrin bushings and solidly mount the Diff.
Kevin

[PANTYEATR]

There are a couple differences. 03-04 had 31 spline on both side and the 99-01 only had 31 spline on one side. The 03-04 also had a reinforced diff brace for the front of the diff that the 99-01 lacked. The 03-04 also sports 3:55 gears. I would suggest mounting the IRS cradle as solid as possible, even with delrin bushings and solidly mount the Diff.
Kevin

Kevin you are right about the other differences. the diff brace in the pinion support area, if you look at my pics I have made that update. it just didn't make sense not to.

in my diff, I have the 3.27:1 gears and I have been struggling in my head if I should go with 3.31:1 or just go for the 3.55:1, my struggle is good interstate gas mileage, decent acceleration and "pull" when I go 408W twin turbo...

as for the IRS being 31 spline on the carrier end for all IRSs I'm not sure of, but i'll research again, but I'm sure I read the 99-01 has 28 spline on both ends and the 03-04 has 31 splines on both ends.

I'm sure we all agree that what makes these units weak is the movement of the weaker factory bushings that cause all kinds of movement which break diff covers and axles. thanks for everyone's input, keep them coming. I like learning from smart people every chance I get...

[I_make_oil]

Subbed. Nice project. I especially enjoy your documentation and writing style.

[PANTYEATR]

Subbed. Nice project. I especially enjoy your documentation and writing style.

Awesome! :D

[Sicarius428]

I am interested in knowing about the gears too. I heard that Turbos like less gear if that helps. The difference between the 3:27 and 3:31 isn't much of a difference. You might as well try the 3:27s unless you were planning on rebuilding the diff. I doubt a turbo 408 would have much trouble with torque either way...
Kevin

[PANTYEATR]

FINALLY ANUPDATE: November 2014

so, I have been working on the trunk floor and sewing up pin holes in the aluminum tank.

after no more leaks were found on the tank, the trunk floor was marked for bead rolling and the access panel for the sending unit / EVAP check valve.

beads were laid in to minimize flexing and vibration, which will be further cut down by the lizard skin and carpeting.

then I decided to re-do the rear mounting for the tank straps. this time I used a 2 ft. perforated 1.5" square tube. it worked brilliantly and looks trick. it also has more welds on it to support that possible30 gal. capacity.

next, I will be figuring out the gas filler neck situation cause I have it running a different way now...

[PANTYEATR]

DECEMBER 2014

today I primed the bottom of the stang. I've been advised that it's should be primered before the lizard skin is applied, since it's water based. yes the primer is white and it's a high build epoxy type. once it dries, I will have to scuff it and get the lizard skin sound control on it, then apply the ceramic barrier lizard skin on top. that's the order they have to go on or it won't work correctly.

I'm trying to figure out how to upload a video from my computer and show the prep work I did.

[PANTYEATR]

today I turned my attention to the MACH system... it sounds funny saying that when I don't even have the body finished or one wire or harness in the car yet.

but until my front and rear glass gets pulled, I will have to do something else in the mean time. I had this extra MACH system box and I wanted to use 8" Sony subs in it. a small amount of massaging was done to get them in there. the rear speaker deck will be massaged also to fit the subs and make them look like factory, again, once the rear glass is out tho...

this adhesive company called SEM has this great urethane stuff that has a 5 minute work time and 1 hour cure time. I used it tobuild up areas where there are air gaps or places where is no material for a screw.

I also used some parts of the box that was no longer needed that boxed in the factory amps. that plastic melts easy and was great for making walls. everything was ground down and the screw holds were pre-drilled and one sub was mounted, it turned out better than I thought.

[PANTYEATR]

JULY 2015:

so where am I with this car....I have prepped the inside and outside for the white epoxy primer, then I prepped that (with a scotch bright pad) for the lizard skin. I applied 2 coats of the sound control and the thermal barrier. it took almost all of the 2 gallon buckets of each to cover just the bottom. I'll have to get more to spray the inside of the car and the door shells.


before spraying the lizard skin, I seam sealed the body inside and out. I then prepped the sub-frame connectors for welding to the body. the welding isn't done yet due to the welder blowing a transformer. once I get it back, I'll start burning these things in.


I coated the aluminum tank in the lizard skin thermal barrier, just so it won't heat soak the fuel from the road heat. I will add a fuel cooler at some point to cool the fuel from the heat soak from the engine compartment since it will be a return style system.


I'm able to hang around now and make some progress. this was all done in a week, working on it everyday I can. more updates will be coming more often...

[I_make_oil]

Looks good. Your hard work is paying off.

[amoosenamedhank]

Love me some SN95. Please keep the updates coming.

[PANTYEATR]

Semper Fi bro and thanks for the kind words guys.

I measured the volume of the fuel tank after my modifications and it holds 22.5 gallons!...which is odd cause before modifications it was advertised to hold 18-22 gallons. 18 gallons maybe, but it would never hold 22 gal without the mods....

[PANTYEATR]

well guys, sorry for the late update, but I have been very busy with this project and I hate having to upload to photobucket first just to post pics here...

I think I left you where I welded in the Stifflers sub-frame connectors that were powder coated new ford blue. I then turned my attention to the cobra IRS. I took the whole thing apart for powder coating, new ford blue and silver. also to install the "FULL TILT BOOGIE RACING" treatment. I also swapped out the factory trac-loc for the Detroit Locker Tru trac, fully geared LSD.



while the aluminum diff was empty, I cleaned it and prepped it for a few coats of aluminum paint




all new bearings, races, seals etc. was replaced before I set up the ford racing 3:27 gears backlash and gear pattern. then I sealed everything up with the Ford Racing IRS Girdle.

[PANTYEATR]

so, since my smart phone wanted to dump 316 pictures instead of just moving them to the SD card, I don't have most of the progress pics of the IRS, but as I find them elsewhere, i'll add them.

heres the Maximum motorsports front end. it was also powder coated new ford blue. the tubular control arms were left powder coat black. the front spindles were painted with epoxy paint and new Timken hub bearings were installed. maximum motorsports coil-overs and Koni adjustables round off everything.


I have the caster / camber plates too and i'll upload it for you in a few... I started working on the dash. I took it all apart down to the bare metal frame and decided to powder coat that bright white. just so it doesn't rust anymore and should I have to do some work under the dash, it will be that much brighter to see with a light. I then professionally had the 2 tone painted black and yep new ford blue. the process used made the paint very tough yet flexable. the rear plastics were done as well. the dash harness was cleaned up, re-taped and dielectric greased every plug and grounding point.