Wilwood Pad Knockback

[GoodysGotaCuda]

During recent re-assembly of my Strange 9" rear I decided to check axle endplay. I have the "Late big Ford" tapered A1013 bearings that are adjustable. I found .005" on one side, .014" on the other, which seemed excessive. After lots of frustration it finally hit me - the race contacts a steel ring next to the seal. This is what sets the bearing preload. I easily removed. 011" from one, .002" from the other. Now both sides are between .002" and .004". Timken spec is .001" to .005". Figured I would post in case anyone wants to tighten up their axles.

I need to get back there and do this again. I shaved down the bearing retainers nearly flush and it improved the knockback, but not enough.

I'm afraid to apply pre-load to my Chrysler "green bearings" as they will die a quick death. I already have the tiny front Wilwood wheel bearings very tight on pre-load.



After all of this, I wish I would have chased an OEM floating caliper setup and not bothered with aftermarket brakes.

[another69]

It's not the retainer, but a steel ring (unsure of the technical name) that contacts the bearing race and sets endplay/ preload. Timken spec is tighter than mine were by far.

In order from wheel towards diff: retainer, axle, seal, "steel ring", bearing, race, bearing "wedding ring". I milled down the race since it is easiest to remove.

The piston springs would be icing on the cake