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  1. #1
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    Default 68 Chevelle LQ4 W/4L80E Build

    Well, here it goes...

    Im mostly a euro car guy (92 Mercedes SL300-24 Brabus, 98 BMW 750 and a 83 BMW 633) but had a 76 vette that i used to drive from time to time before i sold it and i wanted to get my hands on a chevelle, camaro or a nova. Spent months on ebay looking for a project and got this, 68 Chevelle. Its perfect candidate for an LS swap. Got it for 1k and another 1800 shipping it to my part of the world and here she is



    Ebay Auction pics




    30 days later, arriving at 3am and seeing it for the first time




    Lifted it up and thankfully its a clean frame with a bad floor panel

    Ordered P-S-T body mounts and new hardware and while i wait, separated the body and sent the frame to the sandblaster

    A quick grind to the frame to see what im dealing with

    The resting place of the body till i locate fenders, rad support, hood and other bits and pieces and ship them out to my part of the world


    Fast forward a couple of months, i gathered parts and shipped them. Frame got sand blasted and blistein shocks installed that i picked up cheap off ebay

    Before and after:


    After that, i installed the full UMI package which included front and rear sway bar, upper and lower control arms, frame braces and Polyurethrane differential bushing. Not bad for a first timer working on muscle cars and finishing in 5 hours.



    Im also going to install the front end rebuild kit from P-S-T along with the body mounts. In the mean time, i have managed to get my hands on a donor truck. LQ4 with 4L80E. The plan is L92 or LS3 heads and Holley Hi-ram along with autokraft oil pan and dirty dingo motor mounts.

    The block in question

    The donor truck


    Fast forward a couple of more months:
    good news and bad news

    Bad news: the shop where the car is getting the work done hasn't been paying salaries for the past 4 months so all work has halted to a screeching stop and I need to start hunting for a competent shop that knows what they are doing.

    Good news: I started paying the body guy on the side to get some tasks done so I got him to install the AMD front floor panels, patched the rear floor panels and installed a dynacorn front lower cowl panel so officially the car is major rust free!

    Now, im lost what my next plan of attack should be?

    Option 1: Paint the bottom of the car, spray primer on the body and interior quickly to avoid any more rust and install dynamat on the interior and install a Auto American Wire update kit (basically get the car ready body wise until final paint)

    Option 2: Mate the frame to the body and start installing the LQ4 and 4L80E, install the fuel tank and plumbing and all that's required to get the car running (get the car turn key ready but the body is still bare)

    Or what you have done or will you do if you were in my shoes?

    Also, mounts should i get? im guessing tall and narrow?



    This one is the correct one?
    http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=3.1117

    also, for tranny crossmember, since my car didnt come with one, im thinking of going with this one
    http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...elle/year/1968
    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    I am in the early stages of a very similar swap. I'm making a 1970 GTO clone from a 1971 LeMans and using an LQ4/4L80E. The donor was an '07 truck and I got all the electronics as well.

    When I initially tried to set the motor/trans in place it seemed like the trans tunnel was too small to accommodate them. I had different motor mounts than the ones you reference though. I am very interested to see how your project progresses, and curious whether those motor mounts, trans crossmember, and the oil pan you chose work well together. Also very curious about any possible trans tunnel/firewall/floor mods that may be required to fit the 4l80E.

    Please continue to share progress pics and info and feel free to ask me if there is any information I may be able to share that could help you along.

    Keep up the good work!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Iowa
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    297

    Default

    spray primer and protect all the work you have already done sheet metal wise.

  4. #4
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    Jan 2014
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    Seattle WA
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    Wow. You've got challenges that most of us have never had to deal with. Good on you for muscling through them and saving a Chevelle! Looking forward to seeing your progress.
    1967 El Camino 408ci LSx....and the build begins!
    1967 Turbocharged 408ci LSx Chevelle - 1012 rwhp, 959 rwtq 67 Chevelle
    2009 Supercharged Silverado - On the Dyno

  5. #5
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    Jul 2012
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    Traverse City, MI
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    529
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    Looking real forward to watching this one progress!! Thanks for saving another 1st gen A-Body!
    Project thread - please check it out. I dont post this stuff for myself. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ouring-Project
    IG - @tc_chevelle
    Please, call me Bart

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    UAE
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    Country Flag: United Arab Emirates

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIYGuy View Post
    I am in the early stages of a very similar swap. I'm making a 1970 GTO clone from a 1971 LeMans and using an LQ4/4L80E. The donor was an '07 truck and I got all the electronics as well.

    When I initially tried to set the motor/trans in place it seemed like the trans tunnel was too small to accommodate them. I had different motor mounts than the ones you reference though. I am very interested to see how your project progresses, and curious whether those motor mounts, trans crossmember, and the oil pan you chose work well together. Also very curious about any possible trans tunnel/firewall/floor mods that may be required to fit the 4l80E.

    Please continue to share progress pics and info and feel free to ask me if there is any information I may be able to share that could help you along.

    Keep up the good work!
    Quote Originally Posted by armourmark View Post
    spray primer and protect all the work you have already done sheet metal wise.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bonehead View Post
    Wow. You've got challenges that most of us have never had to deal with. Good on you for muscling through them and saving a Chevelle! Looking forward to seeing your progress.
    Quote Originally Posted by Barrrf View Post
    Looking real forward to watching this one progress!! Thanks for saving another 1st gen A-Body!
    WOW! thanks for the love guys! i dont know why i didn't get an email about your replies...anyways, update time!

    The garage where the car was being worked on, hadn't paid the salaries in 4 months and was closed by the Labor Court. I had already agreed with a new shop that when my salary comes, ill tow the frame and the body and they can start from where they left off. I come to find this paper stuck on the door of the garage while my BMW E24, Chevelle frame and parts and the Mercedes R129 Pano roof where still inside totaling over $22,000!!.



    I call the manager and he simply says deal with it, the owner of the garage is ditching my calls, emails, messages and even a visit to his office was useless. I had to go to court and open a case for them to open the doors so i can get my stuff but the case is still pending. I was passing by the garage one day and noticed the back employee door was open. I walked in to find 2 workers practically living in the garage, I paid them 30 bucks each to flip the frame on its side and slide it out of a regular sized door! along with my pano roof and all the chevelle parts but the E24 is still locked in.

    Called a crane to take the body for sandblasting then primer



    Primed up, there was a small holes in the center of the trunk and at the rear quarters...no biggie but surprisingly no major rust!



    Donor truck having the LQ4 and 4L80E taken out then selling the truck for scrap



    Stay tuned for more updates!
    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    UAE
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    Its been awhile since i updated you guys so here it goes,

    Took the block apart to see what im dealing with:




    and found some rust in the cylinder walls and cam




    So i had 3 choices,
    A) go 4.030 over
    B) replace the block
    C) put new sleeve jackets

    I tried option B and 3 different blocks from 3 different shops were just as bad or worse so i went with option C since its the most cost effective one

    I also ordered comp cams, flowmaster 814116 Headers (1.75 inches, ceramic coated and polished) and managed to find a set of LS3/L92 heads from west coast racing heads for $545!!

    The cam i went with


    New oil pump, new seals all round, new piston rings....pretty much new everything


    My R129 Benz getting an X-pipe, resonator delete and magnaflow muffler installed in the background


    Heads installed, still need to get a holley hi-ram though








    Still need the LS3 offset rockers though


    Its almost a shame to cover up such beauty


    I dropped of the body to be mated to the body for the first time since the car reached the UAE, cant wait to get off work and see the progress!
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  8. #8
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    So yesterday, i went after work to see what progress has been done since i dropped it off before yesterday ands low and behold, engine & tranny are already in!

    I asked the current garage to check on the status of the body mounts since the previous garage said the only installed 4/8 because the bolts were missing (complete bull****) only to find out that the only installed the front 2 and not with the correct number!! Installed the remaining body mounts that i ordered from P-S-T along with a new set of bolts and called it a night.

    The autokraft pan and dirty dingo sliders did wonders, there is plenty of space between the crossmember and the pan. The 4L80 fit with no issues and no contact with the body floor. There was even more space after all 8 body mounts were put in place!

    anyways, enough rambling...here are the pics




    Plenty of space left for that sweet holley hi-ram!


    Autokraft oil pan to crossmember clearance


    The big boy 4L80E in with no major problems and still some space to spare
    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  9. #9
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    Aug 2012
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    UAE
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    It been awhile since i updated you guys and alot has been going on!

    My brother in law decided to get in on the muscle car action and got himself a 72 Vette. 350 Elderbrock pro flo fuel injected engine, TH400 transmission with mild shift kit, 1500 stall speed converter, headers and magnaflow exhaust system, ecklers L88 hood, 17" Cragar SS rims, Be cool radiator with flex-a-lite fans, dynamat'ed the entire cabin, ACC carpet, C5 seats and a CS144 Alternator. I also got the original matching number engine and hood in the sale.

    My brother in law and i also got a 69 Chevelle to flip for profit. 350 motor with new heads and intake. PS, PB, 350 turbo tranny with shift kit. It has new quarters, trunk pan and floor pans. SS hood, 15" rims and power seats. I ordered CPP front and rear brake kit, ACC carpet to freshen the interior up, griffin aluminum radiator, Dynatech ceramic coated headers 1-5/8" into 1-3/4" and MuscleMaXX 2.5" exhaust kit. . Im going with BMW Atlantis Blue for paint. Still need to install the bilstein shocks and decide on how much to lower it by











    In the meantime, iv been busy shopping and collecting parts for my 68. I got AC, AMD inner fenders, Willwood brakes and MC, 18"x9 rally wheels. UMI control arms, AAW kit, NW DBW 102mm TB, Magnaflow 2.5" exhaust system and the crown jewel, Holey Hi-ram for LS3/L92 heads













    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  10. #10
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    Aug 2012
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    UAE
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    18x9 Rally wheels wrapped with Nitto NT555 255/45R18

    It seems i got sent the wrong set for the wilwood rear brakes. The backing plates are not for a chevy 10/12 bolt. They seem to be more for a ford bolt pattern
    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  11. #11
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    Ma.
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    Its looking good! That hi ram looks sweet on there.
    Wayne
    Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
    Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

  12. #12
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    Good stuff, sucks about that shop closing down on you though.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckd71 View Post
    Good stuff, sucks about that shop closing down on you though.
    Quote Originally Posted by Motown 454 View Post
    Its looking good! That hi ram looks sweet on there.
    Thanks guys!! im now trying to locate a DBW harness and computer for modification along with a monte carlo pedal

    Here is how she sits now





    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  14. #14
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    Aug 2012
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    Update: ordered the PSI harness, here is my order sheet

    '02 VORTEC W/ 4L60E STANDALONE WIRING HARNESS (DBW)
    THROTTLE BODY TYPE: DRIVE BY WIRE (2 ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS ON THROTTLE)
    INJECTOR TYPE: MULTEC INJECTORS
    TRANSMISSION TYPE: 4L80E (ELECTRONIC AUTO) + $25
    OIL PRESSURE WIRING (F-BODY GAGE CLUSTER ONLY): NO
    AC RECOGNITION: YES + $15
    CRUISE CONTROL: NO
    COOLANT TEMP WIRING (F-BODY GAGE CLUSTER ONLY): NO
    FUEL LEVEL WIRING (F-BODY GAGE CLUSTER ONLY): NO


    MOD-1018: 6 PIN THROTTLE BODY MODIFICATION +25.00
    PCM-1003: LS/VORTEC ENGINE PCM WITH PROGRAMMING
    THROTTLE BODY TYPE: DRIVE BY WIRE
    TRANSMISSION TYPE: 4L80E (ELECTRONIC AUTOMATIC)
    ENGINE SIZE: 6.0
    MODEL: TRUCK (SILVERADO/YUKON/SUBURBAN/VAN/SIERRA/ESCALADE)
    INTAKE MANIFOLD TYPE: VORTEC TRUCK
    ENGINE YEAR: 2000
    FUEL INJECTOR TYPE: VORTEC TRUCK
    TIRE SIZE: 275/40/18
    REAR GEAR RATIO (X.XX):CUSTOMER/TUNER WILL UPDATE

    Total $916.20

    Got the engine started but i have a problem with the accelerator pedal. The '07 Monte Carlo DBW pedal (Pt# 15831256) has 6 pins while the PSI harness has 16 pins with 13 wires running into the plug...any help?

    '07 Monte Carlo DBW pedal (Pt# 15831256) with 6 pins


    PSI harness has accelerator pedal harness with 16 pins




    Something im missing here?
    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  15. #15
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    the 16 pin connector goes into the tac module -- then tac module out to the DBW pedal
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    -Bennyhaha

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LUV2XLR8 View Post
    the 16 pin connector goes into the tac module -- then tac module out to the DBW pedal
    It looks like the Monte pedal only works with Gen IV engines and ECUs and i have a Gen III, so do i need a Vortec or Vette TAC and pedal?
    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by spitfire980 View Post
    It looks like the Monte pedal only works with Gen IV engines and ECUs and i have a Gen III, so do i need a Vortec or Vette TAC and pedal?
    The ECU, TAC, and the pedal must match for Gen III applications. Have you contacted PSI (isn't that where the harness came from)?

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by spitfire980 View Post
    It looks like the Monte pedal only works with Gen IV engines and ECUs and i have a Gen III, so do i need a Vortec or Vette TAC and pedal?
    Correct
    -Bennyhaha

  19. #19
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    Aug 2012
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    After 3 long and painful years, i finally have fenders and a hood on


    Door gaps being checked




    Floor pans had to be primered again for paint


    Unfortunately, the regular hood wouldn't close with the Holley Hi-ram and tall and narrow mounts so i switched to the short and wide ones in the hope it will bring the engine down more but it was a no go.

    Trimmed the X-brace on the underside of the bonnet but still didn't help so it either i get a Mid-ram or 2 inch cowl hood like toytech93 did. Im going to go with the Mid-ram and switch over the openings in order to retain the 102mm opening and the NW TB but i got the engine to run, ill try to upload a clip of that
    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  20. #20
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    Here is the video of the first startup
    https://youtu.be/cdDKXTSJ8Bs

    I started her up without TAC module, pedal, o2 sensors or MAF but she fired right up
    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."

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