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    Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5
    Results 81 to 98 of 98
    1. #81
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      Quote Originally Posted by egoman View Post
      Did you slug the upper control arm bolt holes? If not those will continuously loosen up with driving. Just trying to save you having to do this after powder coating.
      So I've thought about this. When you say they will continue to loosen up I assume you mean the actual holes in the square tube will wear and "egg shape" or "oval" over time. I am familiar with installing a slug as you mention. I've also seen something the off road / 4 wheeler crowd does. They use "weld washer" on the 4 link mounting tabs to avoid the same type of wear and tear on the holes.

      I was thinking I could go that route and find some thick wall washers or just fab some from either 1/8 or 3/16 plate. I guess the idea is once you weld it to the mounting surface, the weld will carry any sheer load. End result is you basically double the wall thickness and this in turn will keep the holes from wearing out. I figure if its a proven practice for the off roaders it should work for a street car. Those trucks usually weigh a ton and the suspension takes repeated shock loads.

      What do you think?

    2. #82
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      Rosser Manitoba Canada
      Posts
      114
      Country Flag: Canada
      Actually the tubes will crush inwards. The holes if they were just one plate would be fine when tightened. BUT if you bolt across the tube they will continuously loosen off as the tube flexes. It will flex!

    3. #83
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Antonio, Tx
      Posts
      1,180
      Since I'm farther ahead of you doing a C5 swap I can help you out some. Early C6 Z06 torque tubes are longer then C5 tubes as is the bell housing, which will help you to not have to move the engine as far back as you'll be about 11" back from stock if you try and use C5 stuff not modified. I think my engine is about 8" back from stock. I over came the 3.5" difference by using a C6 bell with a early C6Z tube then a C7Z 7 speed (1.75" longer the the T56 and yes, I have the first 7 speed swapped first gen in the world lol) mounted to a C6Z rear diff. in a C6 rear subframe (the diff mounts differently in the C6). It came out to 3.25" longer then a C5 drivetrain so I needed to massage the mounting holes in the rear cradle just a little bit. I have a build thread on here too with pics.

      If you haven't built rear upper mounts yet use C6Z upper control arms, they mount the same as the front uppers instead of the through bolt design which makes things tricky when you do the tin work out back.
      Instagram: CamaroAJ

    4. #84
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      Quote Originally Posted by CamaroAJ View Post
      Since I'm farther ahead of you doing a C5 swap I can help you out some. Early C6 Z06 torque tubes are longer then C5 tubes as is the bell housing, which will help you to not have to move the engine as far back as you'll be about 11" back from stock if you try and use C5 stuff not modified. I think my engine is about 8" back from stock. I over came the 3.5" difference by using a C6 bell with a early C6Z tube then a C7Z 7 speed (1.75" longer the the T56 and yes, I have the first 7 speed swapped first gen in the world lol) mounted to a C6Z rear diff. in a C6 rear subframe (the diff mounts differently in the C6). It came out to 3.25" longer then a C5 drivetrain so I needed to massage the mounting holes in the rear cradle just a little bit. I have a build thread on here too with pics.

      If you haven't built rear upper mounts yet use C6Z upper control arms, they mount the same as the front uppers instead of the through bolt design which makes things tricky when you do the tin work out back.
      Hey man, thanks for the input. I have checked out your build. Thats one hell of a project you got going on there! Really enjoy watching how its all coming together.

      I actually read through how you used parts from different gen Vettes to make up some extra length on the drivetrain. I did a lot of searching around but at the end of the day it was just much more affordable to go with all C5 parts. I already have everything from the bellhousing to the rear diff. Trust me I was very tempted to go after a tr6060! At the end of the day even with the cost of having the C5 torque tube lengthened (if needed) I just couldnt pass up the deal I got on C5 stuff.

      Now, with the C6 rear upper control arms you have my ear. That is definitely something I will look into.

      I do have one question for you. Can you tell me (even approximately) what angles your rear control arm mounting points wound up at? Essentially what does the side view virtual swing arm "SVSA" look like? Im laying out my rear suspension setup now and it looks like if I set the cradle to where the lower arm mounts are roughly 9 - 10 deg upward (from back to front of vehicle) and set the upper arm mounts to just about 1deg up, this will yield about a 64 % anti-squat (taking into account the camaro wheelbase and using an 18in cg height). From everything I hear 60 -65% is the target range for a performance street setup. I'd greatly appreciate any info you can share.

    5. #85
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Antonio, Tx
      Posts
      1,180
      Quote Originally Posted by maro67 View Post
      Hey man, thanks for the input. I have checked out your build. Thats one hell of a project you got going on there! Really enjoy watching how its all coming together.

      I actually read through how you used parts from different gen Vettes to make up some extra length on the drivetrain. I did a lot of searching around but at the end of the day it was just much more affordable to go with all C5 parts. I already have everything from the bellhousing to the rear diff. Trust me I was very tempted to go after a tr6060! At the end of the day even with the cost of having the C5 torque tube lengthened (if needed) I just couldnt pass up the deal I got on C5 stuff.

      Now, with the C6 rear upper control arms you have my ear. That is definitely something I will look into.

      I do have one question for you. Can you tell me (even approximately) what angles your rear control arm mounting points wound up at? Essentially what does the side view virtual swing arm "SVSA" look like? Im laying out my rear suspension setup now and it looks like if I set the cradle to where the lower arm mounts are roughly 9 - 10 deg upward (from back to front of vehicle) and set the upper arm mounts to just about 1deg up, this will yield about a 64 % anti-squat (taking into account the camaro wheelbase and using an 18in cg height). From everything I hear 60 -65% is the target range for a performance street setup. I'd greatly appreciate any info you can share.
      I had a C5Z drive train that I was starting with and was going to have the TT lengthened, but it cost me the same by keeping an eye out for deals to go the way I did as it would to have the tube lengthened and this way I have off the shelf replacement parts available.

      I don't have any suspension details since I didn't mess with any of that by using the stock frame. I don't know where any of my angle finders that are packed away are either to even get an angle.
      Instagram: CamaroAJ

    6. #86
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Posts
      189
      Country Flag: United States
      Subscribed
      My half a$$ed build thread.https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...elle-6-0-4L60E

      Tighten it till it strips & back it off a quarter turn.

    7. #87
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      Well its been quite a while so its time for another long over due update. From my last post, I have been focused all attention on the rear of the car. I am fabricating a rear frame section to mount the C5 rear subframe and IRS. I started my locating the stock subframe under the car whith the body set to the ride height I plan on running. I also made sure to set the height of the subframe to be where I want it when static.
      Name:  20200814_093904.jpg
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    8. #88
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      Next up I made another jig locate and level the rear subframe similar as to what I did up front. This make things so much easier when you start installing the suspension components and mocking everything up. Name:  20200819_134549.jpg
Views: 173
Size:  235.3 KB

    9. #89
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      The way I decided to approach the rear of the car is to fabricate a rear frame section that will tie into where the stock leaf spring mounts were located. I figure the body of the car was originally suspended at these locations and is designed to be supported that way. At the aft side its pretty straight forward as I will utilize the original rear frame rails and install poly leaf spring bushings to mount to. At the forward location the stock leaf springs mount in brackets that are bolted to the factory frame rail and floor / rocker panel on the body. The actual leaf spring bracket is not going to work for what I want to do but the body / floor of the car is reinforced in that area so I plan to take advantage of that.

      First things first. The biggest challenge here is packaging. It really is like trying to stuff 10 pounds in 5 pound bag. Obviously I am going to be cutting into the trunk floor and the rear seat area to make room for everything. That being said, I want to maintain as much of the factory floors as feasibly possible. The main reason for this is for finishing off the interior and trunk area.

      The configuration I have decided on is as follows. I am going to loose the back seat there is pretty much no way around this as the space is needed for the transaxle and exhaust tubing. I plan to make use of the rear seat interior space for storing a spare tire, jack, tool kit and battery. I want this car to be street driving and these items are necessities. I have decided to go with a trunk mounted fuel cell and to use the space under the trunk floor for the muffler(s). Similar layout as the factory C5 setup. There certainly is more than one way to skin a cat, but this is the direction I am going with.

      The next order of business was to fabricate a center section for the rear frame. I started by laying out how I want locate cross members and determine what type of clearance I will need with the trunk floor. Not much to see in this picture, but I used some scrap pieces to represent where the 2 x 3 cross members will go (which will have mounting tabs for the upper control arms and shock mounts). I also laid out pieces of 2 x 2 square tube and 3/16" plate that will be used to mount the C5 subframe.Name:  20200822_133416.jpg
Views: 161
Size:  302.7 KB

    10. #90
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      Also in the above picture you can see, in the bottom left, a piece of 2 x 3 tube that will be one of the frame rails that will go to the stock leaf spring forward mounting location. Again keep in mind this is merely a rough layout at this point. One other thing, I have cut out the majority of the stock rear frame rails. I needed to do this to make room for everything. I left about 12-18in of the stock frame rails intact at the rear of the vehicle, this way I still have the rear leaf spring mounts to work with. Unfortunately, I don't really have any good pictures showing this before I started mocking everything up.

    11. #91
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      I took the subframe out from under the car to start fabricating the rear frame. In an effort to keep things as compact as reasonably possible, I got a little creative with the configuration of the rear center section. Here is the initial layout.Name:  20200917_164631.jpg
Views: 167
Size:  245.3 KBName:  20200917_164556.jpg
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    12. #92
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      The basic top layout of the center section is a "picture frame" made from 2 x 3 x .125" tube and the mounting brackets are all made from 3/16" plate. Here I finished boxing in the front mounting brackets.Name:  20200926_142437.jpg
Views: 169
Size:  217.8 KB

      - - - Updated - - -

      Followed by lots of welding.Name:  20200929_134809_HDR.jpg
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      - - - Updated - - -

      Its starting to take shape. Here I have the mounting tabs for the upper control arms installed.Name:  20201008_222427_HDR.jpg
Views: 161
Size:  277.5 KB

    13. #93
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      Since the mounting tabs for the upper control arms extremely close to the cross members, the bolts have to be inserted from the inboard (in between the mounts) side. This means the shock mounts are going to have to be removable to get them in. While I am not too crazy about this, it is a compromise I've decided to live with rather than spacing the cross members further apart or having a different configuration all together.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    14. #94
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      After a lot of thought I decided that I had to modify the forward cross member on the rear frame center section to add an exhaust pass thru on either side. I am using sections of square tube to this. This will allow me to keep the exhaust pipes away from the drive axles and still keep everything as compact as possible. Here it is mocked up.Name:  20210104_160615_HDR.jpg
Views: 154
Size:  316.4 KB

      - - - Updated - - -

      Name:  20210104_160637_HDR.jpg
Views: 152
Size:  282.5 KB

    15. #95
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      Wrapped up the cross member modifications and added some gussets to tie it all togetherName:  20210109_152131_HDR.jpg
Views: 153
Size:  264.1 KBName:  20210109_152159_HDR.jpg
Views: 155
Size:  294.0 KB

    16. #96
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      Next up is to tackle the shock mounts. Then I can get this thing back under the car and start laying out the rest of the frame rails for the rear section and figure out how I am going to mount it to the body of the car. I am still kicking around ideas on how to connect the front and rear frame sections. I have two concepts I am working on. Still not sure if it is going to be a full frame or if I am going to go with a removable subframe connector of sorts. I think it's going to depend on how the torque tube sits in the car. If I have wind up having to cutout the existing driveshaft tunnel to raise and widen it then I will most likely go with more of a full frame type design. If I don't have to do too much in the way of modifying the drive shaft tunnel then a removable subframe connector may work better. One thing at a time though. Like I said, shock mounts are next on the list.



    17. #97
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Waleska Ga.
      Posts
      2,533
      Country Flag: United States

    18. #98
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      133
      Hey man, that's a pretty sick 69 you got going on there. Any idea about how many inches the engine setback wound up at? How is the leg room in the foot well? I'm not quite there yet, but I'm really hoping I can get away without lengthening the torque tube. I don't mind if I have to play with the front seat location a bit as I won't be running a back seat. Ah well, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

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