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    Results 21 to 40 of 53
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      A1A Beachfront Avenue
      Posts
      81
      Country Flag: United States
      I love unusual builds like this. A PT metro would be so much fun to throw around a few corners!



    2. #22
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      NC
      Posts
      583
      Country Flag: United States
      This is awesome.
      Any updates?

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      No real updates. I only get to work on the car on the weekends, and have been busy the last few. Plus I need to find a transmission so i can then build the Engine and tranny mounts. I did win an ls1 intake on ebay last week, it should help fit everything under the hood.
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      I had a request for the frame specs, so I thought i would post them here so others could see.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      Katy, Tx
      Posts
      309
      Country Flag: United States
      That is BADASS!
      I would love to see one with real wheel openings so that you could run wheels further toward the edge of the body.
      Matt
      2015 Mustang PP GT
      Resto-Mod Coyote powered 1964 Fairlane 2 door post!

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Ky
      Posts
      56
      Looks like you are going to have a very nice build and good luck with it. I really like that frame, I have been looking for one for, my dad's met. Here is a pic of it in 66. It had a 425 buick nailhead in it.

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Wartrace, Tn.
      Posts
      116
      This is very cool. You haven't mentioned cosmetics, but I hope you are planning to paint it something stock resembling, and leave a lot of the trim on . . . the ultimate "what the Fu** . . . " car when the wife winds up that LS, and people turn to see where the tire smoke is coming from.

      I have to admit though, every time I see the photos of the chassis as delivered . . . My first thought is "hey look, an Art Morrison Go-Cart Chassis!" (Sorry!)

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      Hi guys. Our plan is to keep it looking as stock as possible, The biggest give away will be the 15" wheels instead of the stock 13". We don't even plan on painting it right away. We also want to try and keep it somewhat quiet. I have been gathering parts to install the engine and hope to start making the mounts this weekend. The only problem that I have run into is starter clearance. The bellhousing is right up against the frame where the starter mounts. you can see it in one of my pictures. I think I will just grind down the extra material to gain some clearance and I may have to offset the engine 1/4" to the drivers side to gain a little more clearance. Does anyone have any input on offsetting the engine to one side? The pinion is centered in the car, but from what I've read, it doesn't seem to be a problem. I could also notch the frame a bit, but would rather not. I am also wondering how much the engine will move and how much clearance I need. I am running energy suspension poly mounts. Here are a few pictures. I look forward to any input and questions.
      Attached Images Attached Images            

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      583
      Country Flag: United States
      Very cool build, I personally would just cut a small section off the chassis, then weld a plate back on. Smooth it out, and no one will ever know. Get the motor down low ( about 5" ground clearance ) should be plenty.

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks tin, I have seen your dart over on FABO. Very cool car. My starter should be coming from summit today, I need to put that on as well to make sure it's not going to add any clearance issues. My only concern with notching the frame is strength. But my thought is it will still be a lot stronger than an old c channel style truck frame.

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      Well I got the engine in the car. I still need to finish boxing in the engine mounts and I also welded a sleeve in between the side plates to reinforce everything, but I couldn't resist throwing the intake and fuel rail covers on. i know I know, its a 5.3, but I like the look of the corvette fuel rail covers. I even had the wife out in the garage helping me. Life is good.
      Attached Images Attached Images                

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      583
      Country Flag: United States
      WoW, that engine sits way back....

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      Ohio
      Posts
      129
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Tincup View Post
      WoW, that engine sits way back....
      Did you consider something to move the engine forward 3-4 inches? to keep it out of the firewall, feet clearance?

      Not sure if your already committed to pushing it back that far.

      You can get 2 inches off the shifter rod.

      I am using a Camaro shifter but I still had to push the firewall way back in my car.

      but the Camaros push back the shifter about 12 inches to put it near closer to you.

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-2014-Ch...04fe52&vxp=mtr

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      14
      This thing will be a fun little ride when done!
      Crusty coupe...1948 Plymouth poor touring coupe

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey guys. Thanks for the comments, it's good to get feedback from others. I know the engine is set pretty far back, but there were a few things I considered when placing the engine. The most important we're getting the engine low enough that my u joint angles won't be crazy with the short driveshaft. Moving the engine forward would mean I would have to move it up to clear the steering joint and it would have made the working angles too great on the u joints. The other thing was leaving enough room to get the steering shaft up and over the frame. Unless I did some crazy stuff with lots of joints to go under and around the bottom of it. I could redrill the adapter plates to move the engine about 3/4" forward, but then it's really close to the steering shaft and I want a little wiggle room to make it for around whatever headers I use (most likely I will have to make some) I had to put the motor mounts on the frame where I did because if the engine was further forward, the poly engine mounts would hit the frame. ( hopefully that makes sense). I did mock up a cardboard firewall though, and I had pretty good leg room. The car had tons of room when it was stock, I even had to adjust the seat forward and I'm 6' tall. I may move the seat back and inch or two if I have to. So to make a long story short. I could move it abou 3/4". But looking at all the factors I had to put the engine where everything would work, and I guess I will have to deal with the legroom. But hey, shouldn't it help handling a bit?
      Last edited by slantscamp; 12-02-2014 at 05:48 PM. Reason: Spelling

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Dec 2014
      Posts
      1
      Country Flag: United States
      really nice ride your building, did the rack & pinion come with your chassis or did you have it custom built. I am converting my 59 metro and needing to purchase one. Thank you and keep up a great build there

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks. it's a flaming river rack that came with the chassis. I believe Art Morrison shortens them.

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999
      subscribing.

      That there is one interesting build. I have always liked those cars.
      Some times I'm fast sometimes I'm half-fast

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      1
      Country Flag: United States

      Similar Project

      Hi slantscamp. This is an awesomwe looking build. I found the thread because I am also searching for a solution for a rack and pinion solution for a father-son project 54 nash metropolitan. I guess I'll be talking to flaming river. I'll attach a picture or two - our nash was a junkyard basket case from ebay, and we took the low-buck (relatively) approach to build up a custom box steel frame from scratch. We narrowed a welder series mustang II from cross member, and now face the costly steering question. Since this is to be ultra low-buck fit for a teenager budget (and also since I don't want a power-weight ratio that ill-advised for young drivers), we are setting it up to receive a Volvo I-4 from a donor car.

      If anybody knows where I can obtain a shortened rack/pinion suitable for this car, I'm interested!

      I'll be watching the progress, slantscamp. Very interesting and cool!Name:  DSC00247.jpg
Views: 3151
Size:  126.5 KB

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      Indpls, IN
      Posts
      613
      Country Flag: United States
      PM sent CaddyMan

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