II Much Fabrication LS9-powered 69 Camaro

[parsonsj]

A quick update: we just changed body shops. I'll be out at the new place on Saturday morning to see the progress, and I'll update the thread.

[sjaroslo]

Oh, man, hope there isn't a tragic back story to that decision!

[parsonsj]

Nope, no tragedy. We lost some time, since the original place didn't get work done fast enough. The work that was completed is first rate, and we left with hand-shakes and well-wishes.

[dhanks]

Yes, it's the standard LS9 kit, but I can make the programming changes with HPTuners. As far as wiring it into the harness, look over the LSA Camaro thread from C6Z06. The pinouts and everything is in that build thread.

If you're running the stock GMPP ECU, that requires high PSI injectors. What fuel system are you using to accomplish that? If you're using the ZR-1 3-stage fuel system, what tank are you using?

[parsonsj]

I'm running the stock GMPP ECU, along with a vaporworx fuel system using a CTS-V fuel module and 65 psi (have to check that number) 80 lb injectors. I've got some custom programming and tuning to do to make this run right.

[EFI69Cam]

John, I looking into using the E67 and decided against it due to "vechicle integration" issues.

How are you getting the AC request to the E67? The factory applications have a BCM that send the serial request I thought.

Another question if you don't mind... If you have an E67 ECM and a CTS-V fuel pump module, why not use the CTS-V fuel pump controller and get the control over the pump in the ECM?

[Buryingthesun]

Wow, top quality work here!

[parsonsj]

John, I looking into using the E67 and decided against it due to "vechicle integration" issues.

How are you getting the AC request to the E67? The factory applications have a BCM that send the serial request I thought.

Great question! You're right about the A/C request, but the ECM will detect the pressure via the A/C pressure sensor and manage the fan, even though it didn't turn on the A/C. It's not perfect... I'd like to have the A/C request go through the ECM too. It would be nice to have the ECM turn off the A/C when the coolant or oil gets too hot, or at WOT or above a certain RPM. (heck, my 10 year old FAST aftermarket controller could do all that), but that's how it goes.

If you have an E67 ECM and a CTS-V fuel pump module, why not use the CTS-V fuel pump controller and get the control over the pump in the ECM?

Another great question! To be honest, I didn't consider that. It might work... on the other hand, vaporworx controllers have worked so well in my last 3 projects that I just called Carl and asked him to send me the worx, so to speak.

I'll definitely consider it for the next one.

[parsonsj]

The car is at Jeff Anderson's shop in Winter Springs Fl (less than 15 minutes from my shop). Jeff has no employees; he's been in the business for 25 years, and mostly does all the work himself. He's got two other Camaros there, and his own spray booth.

I took these pictures Saturday morning. Nothing all that interesting, yet, but it's nice to see real progress on the car.

[parsonsj]

The car is back from paint (about 7 weeks now), and progress has been rapid. The engine and transmission are wired, plumbed, and ready to go. It needs fluids and a few more hoses. (no really, there are more hoses to go!)

[parsonsj]

Another photo:

[130fe]

John, what 90 intake adapter is that from? Glad to see progress is back on this one.

[ChevelleNV]

that a sexy looking engine compartment John, nice work....

[parsonsj]

John, what 90 intake adapter is that from? Glad to see progress is back on this one.

That's a supercharged Mustang part. It's great for misalignment and a tight fit. And the LS9's throttle body is definitely both!

I debated using a smoothed-out intake tube -- not only would that drive cost to the customer, but a quick prototype didn't look right with the rest of the exposed hoses and wiring. This engine compartment is made with OEM or high-end low gloss racing pieces. There aren't any custom-looking parts. That's how I did my old Nova (II Much), and it makes for easy maintenance and an all-business look. The only part that's not quite with that theme is the coolant recovery tank. I may send it out for a satin powder coat...

[dhutton]

Hi John. Looks great. Could you tell us about the Provent plumbing. Did you use any check valves etc due to the supercharger? I have been trying to figure out how to vent my LSA.

Thanks,
Don

[andrewb70]

JP,

Also tell us about that fancy prop valve on the firewall.

Andrew

[JEFFTATE]

John,
That's a great looking project.
I can't wait to see it finished .

[parsonsj]

Jeff, can you see those ZR1 ps hoses? I was able to use both with just some minor tweaking. I'll be needing some help with the head vent plumbing soon.

[parsonsj]

Hi John. Looks great. Could you tell us about the Provent plumbing. Did you use any check valves etc due to the supercharger? I have been trying to figure out how to vent my LSA.

The two ProVents are plumbed inline to the factory PCV system.

The dirty side ProVent (the one closest to the engine) is plumbed just like a catch can, but with a couple of important differences, which I'll explain in a minute.

The clean side ProVent is plumbed between the clean air intake (coming from the intake tube) and the dry sump tank. It's important to note that GM's dry sump system is *not* the same as you might see on a race car. It's really a "sorta-dry" sump. Real race car dry sumps create 12-20 inches of vacuum in the crankcase, (about 1-2 psi positive pressure in the tank) forcing atmospheric venting, making a PCV system impossible. The air flows in the wrong direction. GM's system connects the crankcase and tank so that crankcase vacuum is minimal, and so engine vacuum can draw air and a PCV still works.

Hope all that makes sense.

Supercharging creates more crankcase vapor since there is more blow-by, but GM's sorta-dry sump scavenge pump is able to keep up with that and pull those vapors into the tank. That's why I'm using much bigger hose sizes on the clean side for the ProVents.

OK, back to the dirty side ProVent. It's plumbed with its inlet coming from the PCV orifice in the valley cover, and the outlet going to the intake manifold. Engine vacuum (on the inlet side of the supercharger) is still present and causes air to flow from the crankcase through the ProVent, and then to the intake manifold. In other words, air is pulled through the ProVent, not pushed like the clean side. As a result, the ProVent has to be modified to work properly. The ProVent has a regulating valve on the side that attempts to moderate pressure, but it fails in a vacuum. The valve head separates from the bellows, resulting in a vacuum leak. I replace the pressure regulating assembly with a Delrin "puck" that locks the ProVent open so that vacuum can pull air through.

In terms of check valves, there is one on the dirty side in the oil return lines. (both ProVents share a drain back to the oil pan). The check valve is also vacuum operated so that it is closed by vacuum from the engine or by positive pressure from the clean side. Captured oil from the clean side can flow directly back to the crank case, and dirty side oil will flow back when the engine is shut off.

Hope that helps! Lots of tech in a short space!

[parsonsj]

tell us about that fancy prop valve on the firewall.

Here's a closeup of the brake bias controller, taken during the initial fabrication. Sorry about the poor quality -- but it's the best one I have.



It's a new part from Wilwood. The two ports on the top are inputs from the master cylinder, one for front and one for back. Out of the bottom are three ports: left front, right front, and rear. The two front ports don't have to be used; you can use one and block off the other. It also has a pressure switch which you can see on the far side. You can use that instead of a mechanical switch for brake lights. And, of course, the big knob is for adjusting brake bias.

A final bonus: since I'm using an InfinityBox (nee ISIS) setup, I can ground one side of that switch and bring in the other side via 24-28g wire and use the MasterCell to control the brakes based on that input. I am also going to program the MasterCell so that the car won't crank without the brakes being activated.