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    Results 1 to 5 of 5
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      282
      Country Flag: United States

      Installing a new 1 piece floor pan in a 68 Camaro - need advice on squaring car......

      Hi guys,

      I bought a Goodmark 1 piece floorpan and trunkpan for my 68 Camaro project. Just ripped out the old floor and left the trunk until I get the new floor welded in to keep the car square while I ripped into the trunk and tail panel area. Right now I have the new floor pan fit and screwed into place but been a bit reluctant to start welding. I have the car up and shimmed on 4 jackstands on the front and back rockers. Car sits perfectly level in all directions and the factory rocker tabs line up perfectly with the floor pan tabs. But here is my dilemma. To get the tabs to line up, I had to use a ratchet strap to rack the new floor pan into place while I screwed it in place. In doing so, the car is racked 1/8" out of square measuring from the factory front door jamb tabs to the tabs on the new floor pan tabs left front to right rear and 1/16" out of square from the same tabs to tabs in the inner sail panel tabs. I know that is not a lot but measuring from the same front door jamb tab straight back to the floor pan tab or either side of the car - I have a 5/8" difference from side to side. Should I even concern myself with that measurement?
      Thanks,

      Greg

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Livermore, CA
      Posts
      668
      Country Flag: United States
      Hmm I've not started this project on my 66 but so many people are telling me to give it a whirl. But with that said, i've not known anyone not to brace/square the car before taking out the floor. I didn't think the trunk was enough to keep things square. I'm going to subscribe to see what folks say!!!

      Let me know if you have a project and or posting up images of how/what you are doing, so I can learn somethings as well.

      Thanks
      Tory


      Livermore, CA
      American:
      1966 Chevelle SS "Tribute" Retro / Pro-Tour
      For Sale


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      282
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by cactuss4 View Post
      Hmm I've not started this project on my 66 but so many people are telling me to give it a whirl. But with that said, i've not known anyone not to brace/square the car before taking out the floor. I didn't think the trunk was enough to keep things square. I'm going to subscribe to see what folks say!!!

      Let me know if you have a project and or posting up images of how/what you are doing, so I can learn somethings as well.

      Thanks
      Tory
      Actually, I was told by more than a few that I didn't need to brace the car as it was not a convertible. Talked to quite a few rod shops and read a bunch of threads on another forum. They all said with the roof on, trunk pan in and firewall intact that it would not move. The problem is that I cannot get it both level and perfectly square at the same time. Either the car is square and out of level OR the car is perfectly level and 1/8" out on the cross measurements. The car was also in an accident as I replaced the drivers side cowl panels. could just be from that and need to be put on a frame straightener - Any point in the right direction would be helpful.......

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Put it on a table to do it right but honestly, 1/16 on these cars is pretty damn good. They usually compensated that with more seam sealer. LOL
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      282
      Country Flag: United States
      Update:

      I actually had the opportunity to have a local hi-end car builder(AJ from Valhallakustom.com) take a quick look see for me before I effed anything up. He taught me how to find good factory reference points and measure both straight and on the cross measurements. Turns out I was a 1/16 out of square on interior reference points and 1/32 out of square on my front sub-frame mounting holes -
      Thanks AJ and thanks to all that posed - I am welding this sucker in tomorrow





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