Call PRE on airport way for a tune and whatever else you need. They have been doing my work for years and very reputable.
https://www.preracing.com/
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Call PRE on airport way for a tune and whatever else you need. They have been doing my work for years and very reputable.
https://www.preracing.com/
I was hesitant to call them as I have heard some bad information about them. I am glad to hear they have done well for you. It is worth a phone call. I still think I will modify my own harness at this point but will still need a tuner.
Can you guys help me identify the style of connector I need for these plugs? The first is my MAP sensor. I need a plug for this one.
Attachment 191494
Attachment 191495
This one is for my fuel pump plug. I need pins and the male plug for this one. Basically the other side of it.
Attachment 191496
This is for my O2 sensor. I need new pins for this plug.
Attachment 191497
My knock sensor. Need new pins for this plug.
Attachment 191498
Finally the crank position sensor. Need née pins for this one.
Attachment 191499
Once I have the pins for there’s I can start my repining of the harness. Thanks!!!!!
The Haltech ECU uses the same Tyco connectors as the Holley ECUs. TE Connectivity offer the correct crimpers. If the harness is laid out well in the engine bay, the easiest way to shorten the harness is at the ECU. I've taken the basic and club level wiring courses and they have been helpful.
Crank and cam are metripack 150.
Knock sensor is Metripack 150 GT
O2 is a Deutsch connector DT
Next one is Metripack 150 pull to seat
MAP sensor I think is Molex...I'm not 100% on that
Andrew
Thanks Andrew. I will look this evening to see if I can find what I need from here.
You might find this helpful:
https://forums.holley.com/showthread...als-Holley-EFI
I have 90% of those connectors in stock if you cant source any on your own.
Thanks for all the help guys. I was thinking last night that I have another harness that I had made for the car originally that used the factory ECU. I had that harness hooked up to this MAP sensor. I will just remove it from that harness and call it good. When I eventually use that harness for the next car I build I will find a new sensor that has the plug and replace it then. I think I have the rest of the details for what I need and hope to start taking the pins out tonight on the plugs that I need to replace. I will then be able to confirm that I am ordering the correct pins for the above mentioned connectors. You guys have been a great help! Thanks again.
Darreld,
I want to chime in here and say I agree with andrewb70 that it's much easier to shorten the harness at the ECU end. If I'm not mistaken, you've got 21 wires, 18 to sensors, 1 GND, 1 B+ Constant, & 1 B+ Switched. Almost all have the same pins. Plus, there's less chance of scratching the paint.
Don't forget to allow for a "Drip-Loop" on the cabin side at the ECU end. Water has a nasty way of following looms into the cabin and shorting ECU's, and you can't guarantee the car will never get wet.
GRC
I hear what you guys are saying. I will have to redo about half the sensors on the engine side. The way the harness runs it snakes around on the top of the intake from drivers side to passanger and then back to drivers side up front. The sheathing on the wires would need to be shortened and then I could not put shrink wrap back on the ends of the sheathing for a clean look. I need to remove the connectors to make it clean. Doing at the ECU would be easier but I would not be happy with the result.
Everything has been ordered including the crimper I need for the O2 sensors. Most of it will come in this weekend or next week. I have started removing the covering to the harness and deciding how I am going to make two branches that come out of the firewall. I was looking for a heat shrink T but can't seem to find one that is large enough. What do you guys use to make a T in a wiring harness? Maybe I am just overthinking it like most things and should just use shrink wrap at the base of both branches and then one larger piece of shrink wrap over the 2 separate branches. As Gray Race Cat was saying, water tend to creep its way down wires and I would like the engine side to be a sealed as possible.
Since you asked for anyone's input, when I need to make a wiring T I normally use electrical tape on the wiring. A couple of loops around the main line crossing over on either side of the T, and it's nice and secure. I'll normally run loom over that with a notch cut in where the T-leg comes out, stick the T-side loom (which is almost always smaller) into that hole on the first groove, then run a few passes of electrical tape over that. If I want pretty looming, I'll use a loom T instead of the notch and groove, see the picture. Normally I'm just interested in functionality instead of appearance, but when I do my own project truck I'll be using the T-fittings. Whoever supplied the loom you are using probably has a solution for you.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...ttings02-1.jpg
if you’re on Instagram, give hpa101 a follow, they have some very informative videos in their IGTV section about proper harness branching, heat shrink T’s and different coverings. They sell online courses, but their free stuff has plenty of good info to get you started. This car deserves better than convoluted tubing (with all due respect, vimes). OEM harnessing tape and adheasive heat shrink are readily available and can make a harness look way more professional.
I have spent some time in the past few days watching some of the HP Academy classes I signed up for a year or more ago. One was the harness class. It was really helpful. YOu are right Chris, the branching section was really good. I also started following them on Instagram. I should have most of the heat shrink, shrink wrap and Kapton tape I need later today. Tomorrow will be where I start shortening the harness and making it look better. I have some of the wires routed into the car that the harness originally placed in the engine bay. I need to find an IAT sensor that has traditional threads instead of NPT to make it easier to thread into my air box. That will take some searching I am afraid. I will ask my local guy, who suggested using one of those, what brand he suggests.
I made some progress on the wiring this weekend. I completed the engine portion of the wiring and added the catch can. I am happy with how it came out. Thanks for the help guys.
I now have to finish up with the interior portion of the wiring. I will work on the the next few evenings and with a little luck be able to start it up by this weekend.
Attachment 191913
Every time I see pictures of your build, Rod Stewart starts singing "Do you think I'm sexy" in my mind. That car is awesome and outstanding, and if my build comes out a tenth as well as yours has I'll be happy.
I finished up the wiring on the inside of the car this weekend. I do need to add some wires to the harness for some outputs. I need to put in pins to control the fan (need it inside the car and is harness has it in the engine bay), and two outputs for the spoiler control. I added a timing pointer since the engine did not come with one. I am ready for my tuner to come over to the house and plug into the Haltech and make sure everything looks good. Once he does that, we will fire it up. There is a pin hole leak on the lower radiator hose where the radiator outlet is welded on. A tough with a TIG and that should be fixed.
As I think about items I still need to setup the Accusump which is partially done now and final filling is done once the engine is running. My list is getting pretty small now.
You're going to manually control the engine fan from inside the car? If that's the case, why?
The Haltech ECU will be controlling the fan. I will add a pin to the harness on an unused output from the ECU to send the ground signal to the fan wiring. If I would have thought about it I could have used an existing unused output wire in the engine bay but I didn't know there wasn't going to be one on the inside. By sending the signal from inside the car it will also require less wires in the engine bay and make it a little cleaner.
Over all I will have to add 3 outputs and one input pins to the harness. The outputs will be for fan and 2 for the spoiler control. The input is for the knob to adjust the sensitivity for the traction control. It will be mounted next to the ABS adjustment knob. I really should be able to dial in the system for my needs.
Aaaaah, gotcha.
Would you mind sharing who you used for the side glass? I'm just finishing up my latest build on a '70 Boss 302 and remodeling a new house. Should be back to my Vox build pretty soon. Will be ordering the flush front and rear soon too. I have dodge durango glass picked out for the sides, but if I can get someone to make custom glass that's even better.
On a different note, I found a company that just started selling a corvette knuckle/hub for the mustang II IFS. I can now run 13" discs on the front from a stock corvette and run regular wheels instead of being limited with the MII spindles. So much better! I guess the 6 year delay on the build has lead to some good things.
My glass guy used a Transit Van windshield for side glass. It looks good but doesn't have the right curvature to seal like it needs to so I am now going a different direction. I am having a glass company outr of New Zealand make me glass for the doors. They used the original 1800 door glass for the contour and are making it with using templates that I send down there. They have been in lockdown since my template arrived but hopefully soon they will start to work on the glass. I will give the details out on the company when I get the glass back and it works like it is supposed to. Until then I won't pass the name on. I will be the guinea pig for now, kind of like the front and rear glass.
What I will say is that making the door glass will be more money than the front and rear glass, maybe twice as much. You better be committed to doing the modification if you decide to go down this path. Custom glass work makes body work look cheap. Another option would be to reach out to Fesler about making door glass. He offered that to me but it would not fit in the timeline I needed for my car.
Since you're having them make custom glass, are you going to buy an extra set, just in case they get broken?
Otherwise, you're starting all over, I assume?
For the amount of money it is costing me I will let the insurance company pick up the tab for the next set if something happens to this set. They will have a pattern so it will be slightly cheaper if there is a next time. This set of door glass is $3500 plus $200 to ship the templates and I don’t know how much shipping the glass from NZ to Washington State will be. It the additional cost was $1500 I would buy another set.
Roger that. Yea, that's a bit pricey but I agree, the insurance company can take care of it.
Rock on man, great build.
Hi Darreld,
Could you please remind us (me), who did the front & rear glass for you, and roughly how much it was?
Thanks, GRC
The front and rear glass was made by Fesler. The situation for me was a little different than it is now. I approached them to make it for these cars and Chris said yes but to make it happen I had to buy them a car to use as a template. He got the car and I got the first set of glass.
It was about a 3 year project to get it done. We think they are a little under $2,000 now for the front and rear set. I am into it for $3,000, the price of the car.
https://www.shopfesler.com/products/...less-glass-kit
The car made it down to the tuner on Sunday. I hope to have a running/driving car very soon. I may not be able to have it dyno tuned until after the interior is done but that is ok with me. I just want to hear the thing run! Pics and video to come soon.
Looking forward to it!
We ran into some problems. The tuner didn't like how I ran some of the wiring near the battery and wanted to redo it. We got to the point of starting the car up and noticed some metal on metal sounds. It appears that I may have an issue with my transmission, converter or pump. We are now going to have to pull the transmission which is not an easy task on this car. It requires removing the full exhaust, (including passenger header), and removal of the torque arm. I am going to go over and help him do the work since I am so familiar with the car. I hope to have it removed and replaced in a day.
Another item that has surfaced is with the accessory drive. He noticed that the crank pulley is not quite deep enough for the belt to run straight. It is a Vintage Air Front Runner but I added a Texas Speed rotating assembly. Not sure if that would cause the problem with the crank pulley alignment (off about .2") or if the ATI balancer is not fully on. The ARP crank bolt is fully seated so I am a little confused. If anyone has a thought please speak up.
Not the update I wanted to share but it is what it is. Time to pull the car back apart...…….
Not sure on the balancer, but do they make shims? If not, wouldn't take much to have one machined.
The balancer issue may take a bit of research. I have a Texas Speed forged crank and a vintage Air front runner serpentine setup. The tuner thinks that the crank my not have the same snout as a stock LS3 crank. The ATI balancer has a steel sleeve that mounts on the crank and then the balancer mounts to that. He feels that I may need to get a new steel sleeve with more backspacing. As it is the balanced does not slide far enough back. It is mounted all the way on so that is not the issue.
It looks like I have a couple calls to make on Monday. I hope there is a new sleeve that I can buy to fix this issue.
I hope they have a fix for you and its not a big problem.
Always something until we're done. :) I hope it's a simple fix .
Balancer issues that I have seen.....
- The use of the wrong sprocket that drives the oil pump. This is what the balancer bottoms out on. Easy to mix up a double roller and single roller sprocket. This only applies to aftermarket kits. The use of a LS7 sprocket will also make the balancer poke out more.
- Snout length really doesnt matter, for the most part. The only thing that would make a big difference is if it was setup for a LS7 dry sump. The snouts are longer and wont let the balancer bottom out on the oil pump sprocket. If you pull the crank bolt out, you should see that the crank sits in about a 1/4". If it is flush with the balancer, thats the issue.
It has been a long time since I have had an update. This is an update but not a good one. We ran into some issues when we started to crank the engine over to start the tuning process. We heard some grinding sound that we thought was coming form the transmission. The engine was also very difficult to turn over by hand. Because of these issues we never started the engine. We were also running into quite a few clearance problems with the transmission pan and the exhaust. This really had me questioning everything because the exhaust was prefabbed before tearing the car apart for final body and paint.
As it turns out, the mock up transmission used was for a 5.3LS and the transmission guy is telling me that the bellhousing on my block has a different bolt pattern than the earlier LS's or maybe it is just the 5.3L engines. I am a little unsure. To top that off the mock up transmission (using the 5.3 bellhousing is about 1/2" shorter than the later style bellhousing. That was causing the transmission mount to be off, exhaust clearance problems..... To fix the situation I either have to find an aftermarket bellhousing that has the correct depth and bolt pattern or cut and weld my two bellhousing to make one that is the correct depth and has the right bolt pattern. I think we are going to go down that path since I am unsure what other clearance issues come up with an aftermarket bellhousing.
After we pulled the transmission out and discovered the issue above we were still not able to turn over the engine. So, out it came. This is a brand mew rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, bearings..) from Texas Speed in my factory block that was bored out. After the pan was pulled this morning there is excessive wear on the main bearings. It looks like there is 80,000 miles on it not 8 rotations of the crank. Something is obviously wrong with the setup. It now is being taken back down to see why there is an issue. The engine builder who is also my tuner said he has had problems with TSP kits in the past with similar issues but also said we will need to make sure that the block does not need to be line bored. Seems like that should have been checked before but what do I know.
There doesn't seem to be any damage to the crank or rods so I hope this is a simple fix. Taking the engine out was a project. Everything is so tight and if you miss a step to remove a part in the right order it makes the job impossible. So glad I didn't already charge the AC system and the other small stuff like that. So frustrated but oh well.
I wish it was a better update than this. Anyone want to buy a Volvo?
These cars can be so annoying sometimes. Im sorry to hear about all the problems. It is funny sometimes how stuff they should have done doesnt get told until it happens. Hang in there and keep working on it. You will get it figured out and have a beautiful car. Good luck!
I'm sorry for your setback. People have all kinds of flip comments to try to minimize what has happened but in my world, all this means is it's time to go back to work and do the best you can to not scratch stuff up. When you get the block and all of the rotating parts measured, I'm sure you will find what has happened. As the saying goes: it's always darkest before the sun comes up. You're still very close on an exceptional car. I'm rooting for you. :)