Thanks 69stang. I have always just used regular nuts after sanding off the zinc coating. Is there a bid difference with using these vs regular nuts?
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Can't wait to see how those little hydraulics work! Great idea!
amazing build job, this is the real deal!
Always lots of great feedback from this forum which is super for motivation! Thanks for that guys!
Thanks! Yes, it required some work, but result was beyond expectation. Another important thing was that thanks to building the exhaust, I finally found a motive for purchasing a TIG-weld for the garage. I've been welding all my parts at work before and some times that really time wasting when you need to tack something, check that it fits, readjust, tack again etc. Problems like that has been solved before by fixing it with duct tape, bringing it to work to tack weld it, bringing it home, cut of all but one "tacks", readjust, more duct tape, welding at work again, bringing it home, bringing it back to work and weld everything and then finally bringing it home.
3-4 nights at least due to all logistics. Now I can do it in an hour...
When I looked at TIG-welders, I also "had" to upgrade to a AC/DC device. And now, when I have a AC/DC, I just "have" to start fabbing a lot of aluminum parts. Fabbing cool aluminum parts requires a CNC-mill though... So... that's my next thing to tick of my wish list. My wife is understanding, but I think I have to lay low for a couple of months before I present that idea.
Well yes. The original thought was to sell kits, but the tubes turned out to be quite expensive to make (no labour, just material) so it would be impossible to charge for them if reasonable labour was added. We never found a really good vendor for hydraulic pumps either so it would require more work from us to create a true bolt on kit. Lots of more.
Selling the lifters alone would be possible, but they will probably still be too expensive (as you might notice, I'm an engineer and not a sales guy ;) )
Cold as hell here right now so there's not much action in the garage for the moment. Some minor lathe-work are being done at work but otherwise than that I'm trying to stay inside.
I'm currently trying to plan the electrical system. Since that's a subject I don't really enjoy that much, I'm trying to make it as easy as possible (just another excuse for buying expensive parts).
To be honest, it felt kind of old-fashioned to start setting up relays for every function so I started looking at other solutions. Considered a PLC-based home made system, but there are not many standard PLC-solutions that are capable of handling over 8 amps so I would end up with those relays anyway...).
Thought a long time about it, but on a quick trip over to US in business I took the opportunity of bringing a Smartwire with me back (dollar was reasonable to the Swedish kronor that time, and I guess I didn't have to pay tax on it since no one looked in my suitcase). That is really one pice of nice work! Haven't spent much time looking at the software, but it has a alot of nice features (warning for high consumption/automatic restarting "fuses"/adjustable delays for on/off etc).
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1600USD if I remember correctly
I also needed a new ECU for the engine since the old one decided to stop working (that was the reason for starting this project when I did). I decided to buy a DTA S80PRO. Not the newest ECU out there, but alot of featuers for a reasonable cost and continously software updates with new functions. Launch control, anti spinn, settings for rain/dry (grip), two fuel maps, AC/fuel pumps/water pump control and some other nice things.
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1000USD
My last setup featured 10 guages in the instrument panel, but I wanted something better this time. Eventhough analog guages offers the best look in a car like this, I realised a dash would give better overview. I stumbled over a "used" (but still new - I got the honor of pulling of the protective film) DTA dash. Fully graphical - screens could be customized to whatever you like. Warnings could be displayed how and where you prefer. It can handle calculations, so i.e. front and rear brake pressure could be measured and displayed as a graph so you can visualize how your brake bias is adjusted (since this will be adjustable from inside the car).
Best of all: Just four wires between ECU and dash and I will get all the information in the ECU displayed at the dash. No unique senders for water temp, oil pressure etc.
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900USD "used"
To top it off, I also bought a box with weather pack connectors from ebay. I wanted deutch, but I had to realise that the wallet was empty by now... :)
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230USD
I've also purchased a couple of different tracking system, a remote controllable solution for shutting down the car in case it's stolen, alarm and some other fairly high tech stuff that I don't wanna show online.
So, electrical system for appr. 4300 USD. This is still a budget project and this was, without a doubt, the largest investment I've done ever in it. My start goal was to finish the project for appr. 13000 USD + engine and gearbox (that I had before), but that budget has just been blown. Eventhough I'm just a little over it right now, it's still not painted, no tires, springs, interior and all those small parts that you never think cost anything...
When it's winter, you have to dream about the summer...
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No problem with space for a radiator
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It's a great feeling when you just cross measured the fenders so they sit right, and realize I nailed the width of the front suspension.
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You sure did nail it! Will sit nicely once the rest of the front end is in there.. speaking of which.. holy crap it looks like there's so much room in front of the accessory drive (even with an imaginary radiator)... room for future power adder(s)....! ;)
Thanks!
I won't start with the body work until it's started (and test driven for a short trip) so there's another year probably. But yes, I'll probably print those pics and keep them in the garage so that I can look at them when I lack motivation...
There's room for another engine in front of it... V16, anyone? ;)
Love the look, BBS ML style suits the car so nicely, it's awesome...
V16 ? like tractor pulling ? no... way...
twin turbos... are you a speed hunter ?
Just kidding, your car is perfect as it is !
Keep plugging away !
Gil
One guy at a Swedish forum found the right use for that space (since I'm never finish the car anyway...)
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Service mode:
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Passenger mode:
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I need help...
Broke one of the clips holding the half shaft into the CV-joint and I'm not sure where to find new ones. I've e-mailed factory five and asked them, and took a look at rockauto.com but they doesn't seem to have them there either.
I would need a new set (obviously, they're different depending on what end they're mounted at).
They're from a Lincoln Mark VIII 1993 and it's the clips for the CV-joint (the outer joint), not the clips for the half shaft holding it to the center section
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Where can I get these?
Ideas, anyone?
Start here you will have to get the right size for your axles. http://www.seeger-orbis.com/products...ings-circlips/
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ATL-cell with home made aluminum cover.
Home made internal catch tank with fuel pump mounts (1 catch tank pump, 2 mains - if I need it...). Contains a gallon appr.
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Some hardware for the fuel pump. I enlarged the holes in every coupling to increase flow.
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Tubes for pressure and return. I routed them inside the coupe since the car will be low and there's not a lot of room between curbs and the floor. As a coincidence - GM left space for double 1/2" tubes in the sill(?).
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I 3D-printed mounts for the tubes. Even though I designed them with a self locking "click"-function, I also added the zip tie possibility to have dual safety.
Keep posting pic I love what your doing.
Guys, I need your help regarding CV-boots for my half shafts... :(
more info here: https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...07#post1177707
Your work is absolutely perfect. We're excited to see way more of this!
amazing work. but not everyone has facebook.:attn::attn::attn::attn::attn:
That's right... I've been busy with other things during the last months, so there are not much to show though...
Anyway, I completed my upper A-arms in the front, just to realize the jig had wrong dimensions. Distance between the mounts was 3mm to little... So it didn't fit the subframe anymore. Kind of frustrating...
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A new version intefered with the rocker, so it required bend tubes instead. The guy with the tube bender didn't have the correct diameters for my tubes, and I didn't have the correct thickness for making an A-arm strong enough. So, long story short, I decided to go with laser cut sheet metal instead. Looks like an off roader, but I didn't wanna go up to 4mm thickness and 3 was too little. I needed the extra material from a square tube though.
An hour in the CAD and FEA later
3mm tube:
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Square 3mm tube:
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Checking that the attachment point could handle the extra load...
I've designed the A-arms so they'll break before the subframe, hopefully.
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A-arm finished
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