I'll check out your build thread
Jason
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I'll check out your build thread
Jason
Yeah. Brett iam sure. Glad I did. It looks right now
Little by little
Jason
What an awesome job Jason ! Your car will be better like new ! Can't wait to see it running
Nice paint work Jason!
Ok so I got the interior floor sealed, sanded and seam sealed. Partially taped. Getting ready to spray lizard skin sound deadener and lizard skin ceramic heat barrier.
Also got my nitros mounted on some Forgeline ZX3 Rs.
Titanium centers and black barrels.
275-40-18 fronts
295-45-18 rears. ( I wanted the height of the 45 @28.40" tall. I built thee entire car around a. 28" tire the 315s.
I wanted nthe 315-40 rears but nitro is out of stock and not saying when
I could ha e got a drag radial or dot road race type but I wanted a street tread so these will do to finish the build and roast them away while waiting on the 315-40-18.
The last photo is the 275-40-17 that I had on the car before. Lot taller and wider. Attachment 191250Attachment 191251Attachment 191252Attachment 191253Attachment 191254
Ok so Iam OCD with the car. I just sprayed lizard skin sound deadener. Tomorrow will be lizard skin ceramic heat barrier. Then when I assemble the car Iam still going to use dynamat. Attachment 191334Attachment 191335Attachment 191336Attachment 191337Attachment 191339Attachment 191340Attachment 191341Attachment 191337Attachment 191342
Looks great! How much product did you wind up using to get all that covered?
Im spraying my ceramic insulation today after doing the sound stuff two days ago. How did you make out with the little depth gauge? I didn't have a ton of success getting consistent results! Really like the way it sprays on though!
Under the car has two coats raptor. First coat 1 gallon. Second coat 3 quarts.
The Lizard Skin ceramic heat insulator in the car I used 2 gallons and really could have used another half gallon. But I sprayed even up under the areas between the back glass and trunk as well as inside of rear quarters and under the dash as far up as to where paint stops where dash meets windshield.
I didn't spray inside my doors yet. I'm going to just sand them and use some rate can undercoat then dynamat there.
- - - Updated - - -
Yes it is hard to be consistent. I've used wet mil guages my whole life on epoxies and urethane as well as zinc rich coating due to being in the water tower construction business
Yes. The car is built around them. My rear is very narrow. 52 7/8" narrow. The rear wheels were mocked with a 3" spacer. To get me where I want to be and compensate for the 6.97 backspace. I'm going to use the spacers as to mill off a few thousands or 1/8 or whatever to fine tune where I want them. Then I'll re barrel the rears accordingly. I did that because I got the ZX3r wheels for 2800 new. .
I want 315 on rear but they are long back orders nkw so 295s are temporary.
The height of them is I built the car for a 26" front height and a 28" rear. I had 24.5 fronts and 25.5 rears and it was way to low and I had to floor jack to get it on my challenger CL10v3 lift. That was t going to work for me and it had really no rake or stance. So alot of math and tape measure on to conclude what I really wanted.
Looking good Jason! I’d be afraid of getting it on the paint somewhere [emoji85] that’s going to be nice! I know you mentioned Dynamat but have you looked at Kilmat?
I haven't looked at kilmat. But I have a box of dynamt my paint shop bought and used in the roof so ingot some left
Overs there and ingot another box I ordered way back when I dismantled the car. So expensive as it all is it's going in the car lol!
Do holler if you come this way sometime Brett
Jaaon
Ok I wanted to start wiring. So I mocked up the vintage air unit and removed. Enlarged the bulkhead wiring hole and mocked up the. AAW wiring bulkhead. I then realized I need to mock up the clutch kit from bowler.
I didn't like the geometry or how offset it was from the factory hole. So I sliced the bowler bracket shortened 1/2" and slid it t the center of the car 3/8" for perfect alignment. Re drilled the clutch pin hole for the master rod and all works flawless.
Now remove all that and begin dynamat extreme.
I got the first box of dynamat empty. My paint guy got a box and. Applied to the inside of roof. The balance made it from under the dash where the defrost tubes hit to about the front of my shift hole.
Box 2 begin!Attachment 191721Attachment 191722Attachment 191723Attachment 191724Attachment 191725
Now I got bored laying down looking under the dash gimped up in a fetal ball so I thought I'd install my billet ATS spindles and Aero 6 Caliper and Rotor lot along with the Forgeline ZX3R so I could get a visual.
I dig the wheels big-time.
Last photo was quick shot of firewall white I sprayed just to help visibility while i mocked up everything and it really helped. Now the dynamat is in there it's not so great on visibility.Attachment 191726Attachment 191727Attachment 191728Attachment 191729Attachment 191730Attachment 191729Attachment 191731
The 275-40-18 Nitto 555 G2 tires look wide and good on the subframe. I think speed tech says you can run a. 9 or 9.5" wide wheel but I'm running a 10".
It turns lock to lock both ways with about an inch of clearance.
I'm tickled.
Cannot wait to get my engine harness on, AC I'm, and other small stuff done so I can put the subframe back in to see wheel fitment in the wheel well.Attachment 191732Attachment 191733
Jason what you do is awesome, can't wait to see all assembled
Ber
great progress!
And this afternoon finished the Dynamat. Well actually box of dynamat extreme was empty and I already had a box of Hushmat so I finished the floor back to the mini tubs with it.
I know I know it's not as. Good as the Dynamat extreme but it was paid for and in the shop.Attachment 191753Attachment 191754Attachment 191755Attachment 191756Attachment 191757
Look forward to following your progress. Keep it up!
A little Thursday night madness like drilling 20 holes. In your new slicked off firewall.
I bought this billet AC bulkhead plate from cwylie here on ptf if not mistaken. And I really wanted to use. It. It's a btch as you all know getting hoses to work in such a tight quarters but I really didn't like the vintage air setup going through the firewall and I didn't like loosing my kick panel speaker area so here it is.
The billet plate with all the stainless steel bolts matches my hood vents install, my Forgeline, and the general industrial theme for my build. Now I'll get fresh black gloss powder coat on it and mount up the vintage ac so I can move on with wiring.Attachment 191886Attachment 191887Attachment 191888Attachment 191889
Thanks Brett.
That finish level is crazy !:twothumbs
Very nice touch. I hear you on drilling into fresh paint. One trick I've used is a piece of painters tape over the area I'm drilling into. It helps to keep the paint from flaking.
Most definitely reyguy. Another truck is use an air hose to cool as you drill just like when you do spot welds or but welds on sheet metal. Weld alittle and cool a lot!
Did you sell your rig?
Jason
After installing and removing the rear bumper 7 times I think I'm done. It's the. Original one but some repops brackets. Had to cut them apart and change the angles and re weld. Test fit, grind etc. Then black gloss powder.
Buddy of mine has a powder coat shop so that's been a big help on this build.Attachment 192059Attachment 192060Attachment 192061
Finally got my Ac bulkhead plate successfully mounted and the vintage unit in behind the dash. Put both in and out more than a dozen times. Such a tight fit with a bulkhead. On a. First gen. I didn't want to loose my speaker hole at the kick panel area.
Hard to get good photos under the dash today.
But celebrate small victories. This has. Been a pain in the ass and i found out about the Eaton ez clip hose after I made hoses.
First I cut and welded hard lines, all 4 out of aluminum but when the bulkhead was installed my port threads on the back side. Male was too short and the nuts on the hard lines bottoms out before the oring seals. I built all that on the shop table with a jig and even had the bulkehead mounted exactly as would be in the car. I just didn't take into account the firewall thickness with new metal, mud and Dynamat extreme.
So I scrapped all those and made 4 crimped hosesAttachment 192098Attachment 192099Attachment 192100Attachment 192101
It looks good, lots of fun times under there fitting things up.
Yeah Brett
Arkansas painting and specialties in Little Rock.
A buddy of mine owns it. They do great powder coating.
Great people as well.
Jason
Yeah Brett
Arkansas painting and specialties in Little Rock.
A buddy of mine owns it. They do great powder coating.
Great people as well.
Jason
Ok installed the rain gear wiper kit
Very impressive and well engineered.
Attachment 192752Attachment 192753Attachment 192754
Putting my E38 ecm in the glove box area.
Going to be a tight fit. I drilled a 2" hole just behind the kick panel area in that small square are where the jamb is. Drilled it from there into the kick panel area ttl route thee LS harness out the fresh air hole.
Since my paint shop left it open to run vintage air through but I used a bulkhead so I left that open.
I took and fabricates a plate like the vintage air fresh air block off plate and offset a 2" hole in it to get my LS engine harness through it. Waiting on it and. My cover plate for the wiper hole both to be powder coated in black gloss.
Attachment 192755Attachment 192756Attachment 192757Attachment 192758Attachment 192759Attachment 192760Attachment 192761Attachment 192762Attachment 192763
And also installed the Wegner WAK033 LS3 accessories drive in diamond cut and black.
Very nice quality.
Attachment 192764Attachment 192765