On the other hand, I'm no expert but, on some of these vehicles, with all rubber bushings, I can possibly see 1.4 degrees difference in certain situations. How much of a problem is it? How much do you plan on racing it?
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On the other hand, I'm no expert but, on some of these vehicles, with all rubber bushings, I can possibly see 1.4 degrees difference in certain situations. How much of a problem is it? How much do you plan on racing it?
Im not racing it at all. Its going to be a cruiser, that might see spirited mountain driving, but not a lot of that. I have no idea if its a big problem. Ill put the truck together and see how it acts when I drive it.
Back on the truck again. Ive been working overtime to finish some stuff at work, and its calming down now. Plus I dont want to rush this and make more mistakes.
I finished the modifications to the upper A-arms. I ended up adding about 1/2" of length to the arms, and that will leave about 3/8" of adjustment for camber. The picture that is posted doesnt show this, but I ended up changing it before welding. I MIG welded them together, and during cleanup, I didnt like the way they looked, so I took the TIG welder back over them to clean them up. I am getting better with the TIG, as long as I dont have to add filler rod. If Im on a flat plate, I can add filler okay. Its when Im trying to put two pieces together while adding filler rod that it gets ugly. Ill keep working on it.
I changed the way Im going to beef up the tow hitch also. Before I completely weld it up, Im going to check the bumper fitment. Then Ill add the support, box the bottom, and add the tie bars in. But Ill check before welding it all up. See, Im learning. https://static1.pt-content.com/image...icon_lol-1.gif
Im having a fit trying to get ball joints for this kit. I posted earlier that two of them seem bad straight out of the box, and the rubber boots were torn. So I went to Advance auto to try and get them. No luck. We ordered some, but they are press in, and I need screw in. I also struck out on a gas cap. The original let fumes into the garage after I put gas in the tank. So I ordered another one, but it doesnt fit. Ill keep looking for a gas cap and ball joints boots.
Im still looking at horns, since the original blew apart. I want something that sounds good and loud, but I dont want an air horn or one of those train horns either. Ill have to figure out the cooling fan too. Plenty of work. I think if I had the suspension in, and the brakes bled I could move the truck under its own power in a few days of solid work. I havent touched the brakes, because the suspension was coming back out.
1st picture-welding practice. The fusion welding is doing okay, but adding rod is like wizardry. Ill keep practicing.
2nd picture-Hitch support. Ill add some plate to box the tube on the bottom, and add some tubes for a tie in.
3rd picture-Ignore the ruler. I changed the dimensions anyway.
4th picture-A-arms cut and ready to weld.
5th picture-Finished a-arm.
I want to make a suggestion based upon my past exp. I would only use Moog ball joints. I think what you are looking for is a K772
I bought 4 moog K772s and they dont work. They are supposed to be threaded, but they arent. I have looked and looked, and I can get the balljoints from Helix, but they are $80 each. Im not sure what Ill do about it. Im still working on it.
I did find a place that might have the boots. I might contact them and see if they have a measurement.
Does this look correct?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/330401881395
That looks like what I ordered from Advanced auto. Im posting a picture.
The one on the left is the K772 from Advance. But its 1.818 at the top next to the thread. The old ones in the kit are 1.768 in the same location. They seem to be very close, but the new ones will not go in the a-arms, and the boots will never fit. Ill go to NAPA soon and see if they can help. They have been very helpful. If you get the right old guy in there, they are a wealth of knowledge.
Even NAPA couldnt help. I tried the K772s and they are too big. I have a set of K727s on the way, but I think they are even bigger. Its probably some kind of toyota or nissan part, something foreign. Either way, 2 of them are bad out of the box, and the boots are ripped also. Helix (who makes the IFS kit) sells them, for $90 each but Im not sending them any more money. Plus they have ground all the part numbers off (or paid to have them made without the numbers) so you cant source any of these parts. Shady.
Im thinking of just replacing the a-arms, or rebuilding them entirely. I can get a-arms, but there is no guarantee they will work with my spindles. And it would be between $500 and $1000 to do so. I would have Moog replaceable ball joints then, and better quality control arms. Or I could get the balljoint and sleeve kit from Speedway. They have them for K772s and K727s, and I could just cut and weld them in place. I think if I go that far, I might just build a completely new set of A-arms. It wont fix all the issues, but its another step closer.
Im about 2 or 3 more problems away from just pulling the truck back apart, and cutting the entire IFS out. I can get a Welder Series cross member for about $400, and make some a-arms. I just know if I do this, Im going to go way too far, and fix EVERYTHING thats wrong, and the truck will be another 5 years in the making.
Have you tried contacting MOOG directly? Mic the hole, measure the thread count per inch, send them a pic and ask them for a recommendation.
I considered it. I also considered going to an alignment shop and having them help. They probably see a lot of ball joints. As much trouble as I have had out of this, Im almost happy I have to make control arms. I read a few reviews about the corner killer helix kits, and the control arms are always an issue. I beefed up the questionable cross member areas to a point Im confident they wont fail. The control arms are another story. I had already planned on another set of control arms in the future just to be safe. It looks like this is what I will be doing. Im going to dig deep into this, and find the geometry for the arms, and the parts, and figure out a few other things.
Its been a few weeks since I posted last. I have been struggling with a decision. I have talked to my wife, and sent some emails, and done a lot of research on the subject, and I think I know what I have to do....
The Helix IFS has just been a battle. Every fix I throw at it reveals another problem. No replacement part numbers, no identification, lousy installation instructions, bad parts, questionable quality...I would hate to fix this truck, and crash it on a road trip. The point of the truck is to drive it. It was never meant to be a trailered pampered show truck. The intention was always to build a nice truck that can be driven long distance without issue.
I have wrestled with the decision, but I think I have to replace the IFS, that I bought from Uncle Jimmys Jalopies. There are several issues with it still, and there are a few things I skipped doing on the frame while I had it apart because I was rushing, and couldnt depend on the help I had then. I have talked through it with my wife, and studied as much as I can. I bought some metal plate, and some other things I think I need, like a full bottle of gas for the MIG.
Here is the plan;
Ill pull the truck back down to the frame. Im going to fix the frame short comings. Rivets to remove, holes to fill, re-route some things, and completely box the frame, not just a half attempt. This will lead to some changes in brake lines and wiring. Along the way Ill install the Welder Series Mustang II, and Ill record all the part numbers and progress. Ive emailed Paul Horton at Welder Series, and he has been a great help so far. It looks like Ill be trying Speedway dropped spindles (they should use the K772 ball joints), and about any tubular control arms for coil overs. I havent worked that far ahead yet. Ill start with the spindles, and go from there.
This time when I put the truck back together, I will not worry about time (I hope). But it will go together slowly, but with the intention of making it right now. I dont want to plan on a later rebuild. If I get the truck running and driving and the body looks like crap, at least its safe and I can drive it.
This might take awhile. I have to order more parts first and make sure Im on the right track. I also have to move some things around here at the house. I have a storage building to get moved, so I can move parts into it easier. Im also going to get the ford going as a backup. It runs and drives, maybe not very well, but it can be made to run with a little more work.
I hope it wont take more than a few months to fix this, but it will take what it takes. I feel I have been short changing the build and Isaacs vision for the truck. I know it will never have a hellcat engine, but it can be better. If that means the frame and drivetrain are great but it has crappy body parts and a small 318, thats fine.
Even though it was painful, I believe you made the correct decision. I'm a long ways from you but if I can be of assistance, let me know.
Bummer, but I think you made the right decision when going for reliability and the ability to make roadside repairs over trying to make something you aren't comfortable with work. Sucks to be out the time and money, but it's the best long term decision.
Its been about 2 months now, but I have been doing things around the house. We got quite a bit done actually. Several things we had been talking about for years. Still have 2 or 3 items to finish, but its been a productive summer. Now Im back on the truck. I just started disassembly again, and should have the truck apart some time next week. Im still having space issues. I just dont have room to store all the parts. But Ill deal with that.
First thing on the agenda after disassembly is to make the frame modifications- fix the IFS, finish boxing the frame at the cross members, fill holes, remove rivets, etc. Im also going to make pass-throughs at the cross members for lines and wiring, and Im still looking at the battery position. Im also considering installing a gas tank in the rear. I know I previously said I didnt want to do that, but that was because I dont want a hole in the bed floor. It just looks unfinished to me that way. Now I have to raise the bed floor, so it wouldnt be hard to make a gas filler neck in the back. We will see.
Im not giving a time frame, but I hope to have it going back together by spring, maybe summer. Of course, life has a way of derailing those hopes and dreams.
I got the cab off today, then I spent the rest of the day re-organizing the garage. Its a tight fit. Im trying to keep the cab inside for the winter. I have the cab sitting on the rolling yard cart I used so much last year, but its not gonna stay that way. Im going to have to make a dolly for it so I can move it around easier. And I need to make a stand for the engine and trans too.
I plan on doing the frame/suspension mods, and fix the frame for good. Its going to be finished and as perfect as I can make it before I start putting it back together. Im also going to rewire it (completely rewire, and Im adding firewall disconnects, and a lot of re-routing), and change the brake line routing. I discovered a few issues with locations and routing when I got it together last time. I have a chance to fix it, so I will. I think Im also going to fix the firewall holes and do a few other things also. Gas tank, new battery mount, maybe replace a crossmember or two.
I would love to fix the floor also, but man thats like $2k for the whole floor metal kit. I might see if a local shop can do it, while its off, but Im just not sure. It needs it, but I dont want this thing being apart for 5 years.
Here are some pictures. I still have to move some things out of the garage, and make room for the engine/trans. It looks like I have room, but its a two car garage, and its gonna get tight.
How much of the floor do you need? The whole thing or just under your feet? Check out Exilinecustomauto.com. Some of the parts may be out of stock right now and it takes a little bit to restock ‘cause he makes the parts. But take a look and see what he’s got.
Thats who I was looking at, but I overshot the price. Its about $1500 for the whole floor, including the steps. But I would have to have help putting that all in. Im sure I could cut it right and weld it in, but I dont know how to remove the old stuff (where do you stop?) and I dont know how to make sure its all square.
I might not need the whole floor, but thats where I need an expert to help. I would be happy to get the firewall and the floors done, then work on the rest later.
Yea, it can get involved very quickly. Usually once you start cutting you find more. I was lucky, mine was just the driver's foot well. But if it gets into the rockers it's a much bigger job. If you have to cut out most of the floor, then you need to add supports to the cab to keep it straight. Unfortunately, if you don't fix the foundation, the rest is not gonna last. But it won't be cheap. Good luck with it
Winter is not our friend. Many share your circumstances. :)
I made a short dolly for the cab and put little bitty furniture dollies under it, so I could move it around. Now I have to make an engine cradle, and a stand for the rearend. Ill start moving some of the parts out to the building tomorrow. I wanted to build the cradle today, but the dryer is being used, so I warned everyone to be finished with laundry today, so I can weld tomorrow.
I did get the engine and transmission out, and rolled the rear axle out. I put the frame in roughly the position it will be in at ride height. Im not 100% sure on the rear end of the frame, but the tires are 28" tall, and I set the front at 14" to center of the spindle. I know it had a slight rake to it, so it should be close.
Goal for tomorrow is the engine cradle, move the tires and exhaust out to the building, and finish removing the parts from the frame, like fuel lines, brake lines etc. Ill fill a bunch of holes, and start the other frame mods next. Ill take a bunch of measurements so I can get the right parts for the fix.
- - - Updated - - -
By the way. Some of the welds were horrible, I know. I was going to have a friend come over and re-do some. Now Im going to fix other things, so Ill make sure they are all good first, then paint the frame for good.
So today, I finished getting the chassis apart, and built my engine stand, and a few other little pieces here and there. The engine stand works great, and I managed to get a few really nice welds on it. I havent welded in a few months, so it took a few to get my speed right.
I managed to measure the suspension, and I am convinced the parts were manufactured with a defect. I zeroed the angle finder, and measured the results. Had I installed the "top hats" to get the desired angle, it would have made the cross member uprights crooked, and the uprights need to be straight. Ill see if I can arrange the pictures in an order that makes sense. Either way, they dont match side to side, which is wrong anyway.
I think what Im going to do is cut the upper a-arm bar out, and remove the shock mount. Ill install another bar at the right angle and orientation, and see how that works.
1st- the cross member upright is straight. I drew in a line where the "top hat" and the cross member meet. There is a seem that gets welded there.
2nd-drivers side. It should be close to 5 degrees.
3rd-passenger side. Should also be close to 5 degrees, but they should at least match side to side.
4th-both side were level and within .2 degrees of each other at the bottom of the cross member.
5th-started out too fast at the top, but slowed it down and got a nice weld by the bottom. Im getting better.
6th-finished engine stand, sitting on a furniture dolly.
I tried to get most of the grinding and cutting done today, but Ill still have a little to do along the way. I did quite a bit today.
I cut the tops off of the cross member, and removed the round bar from it. My plan is to set these bars exactly how I want them, then make 3/16 filler plates. I have a tapered reamer on the way that should fix the spindles. Ill shorten the top tubes a little to allow caster adjustments also. And if anything doesnt go as planned, Ill step back and punt...meaning Ill just order the welder series cross member, and cut this all the way out. That option is on the table, but Im trying to avoid it since I have so much time and money in this set-up already. Its not so much about the money, but removing everything would set me back a few more months, and it would require a lot of figuring out to get all the parts right. Plus I want to use the brakes I have now. I plan on doing a welder series on the F100 when its time comes.
I was playing around and made a cross member that I really kinda like. The 2 x 3 wall thickness is excessive, but thats what I picked up the other day off of facebook marketplace, so I used it. The loop was scrap from work I scrounged up. The cross member would give me a little driveshaft loop of sorts, so in the event of a driveshaft failure, it doesnt catch the pavement. Im not sure Ill use it, but I want to. We will see.
Still tons of work to do on the frame. Ill be busy this winter.
1st- If I use it, it would replace the cross member in front of it. Nothing bolts to this cross member, so it just sits there, all crooked.
2nd-Fitting the loop. It fit pretty good I think.
3rd-Loop notched were cut with a grinder, so they are not perfect.
4th-The bar where the upper control arm was mounted. I cut them out, and cleaned them up. Ill also shorten them for caster adjustments.
5th-Cross member top mount cut flush and ready for mods.
This IFS will be the death of me. I struggled for hours the other day trying to make sure everything is right. The cross member appears to be square and level. I installed the control arms, and the lowers are level at ride height. So, the upper ball joint should be behind the lower, and the angle between their centers should be about 4 to 5 degrees of caster angle. I am using a manual steering rack just in case anyone wants to know. If it was power steering, I could add a little more, maybe 6 or 7 degrees. Then the upper control arm pivot point should be set at around 5 degrees for anti-dive. The drivers side is set, and looks to be going okay. The passenger side has just made a mockery of me. Ill deal with it again saturday, and maybe have more information. The more I look at it, the more I notice little things, Like the lower control arms are nor perfect mirror images of each other. I think Im going to build in some extra adjustment points so I can make sure this thing is aligned right when the time comes.
In the mean time to boost my spirits and confidence, I started the cross member pass throughs, and started filling holes. I think Im going to remove the crooked cross member (I think it was for the carrier bearing), and add the new one I made. Actually, Im pretty sure its too tall, Ill have to make a shorter one, But I like it, and itll look good under there.
Im going to spend some time cleaning the frame up too. It looks worse than I thought.
1st- Rear side of the pass throughs. The wiring, fuel lines and brake lines will go through these.
2nd-Front side. These will get welded and smoothed.
3rd- A hole we accidentally cut before and left for later. Well, its later so I fixed it.
4th-I know the picture sucks. The anti-dive angle is 5 degrees, and the caster is around 4-1/2.
5th-This side is doing okay. Ill deal with the upper shock mounts later as well. The other side is fighting me.
If it helps any, your welding is better than when you started. :)
I decided to put my head down today and either fix this, or make a decision. I think it turned out great. My welds are still lacking a bit, but they are burning in nice. They arent the straightest, and my speed still needs work, but this isnt going anywhere. I measured and remeasured and everything is within 1/16th on the tape measure, and the angles are all well within 2 tenths of a degree. The upper control arm mount angle (anti-dive, what started this whole problem) is within 5 hundredths.
I need to order the stuff for the a-arms. Im also going to have to buy either a bender, or a die for the bender at work. Ill use 1-1/4 tube, so the die is about $250. The bender is about $400, but Ill have it for later. Im not sure what to do. I have already picked out my tube ends, and the rod ends as well, just have to order it all.
I need to add some caster adjustment in the upper mounts. Im thinking of making them like the ones from SPC. I can get all the parts, I just need to make sure they will work. Then I need to make a decision about the cross member. And then about the trailer hitch.
1st-Side profile. They match pretty good now.
2nd-Everything is nice and level, except the bumper.
3rd-Drivers side. Ill grind the welds down and smooth everything.
4th-Passenger side.
5th-These are the SPC uppers. I can buy all the parts to make them.
Still messing around to see what I like. I have made several changes, some will stay, some wont.
The upper shock mount hoop I really like. Ill tie this in to the top of the upper a-arm mount. It should work well. This will also allow me to make the inner fender wells go around this hoop. Then Ill make a small closeout for inside the hoop to block off the engine compartment.
I also moved the battery to the opposite side. I like the mount I made pretty good, but I felt it needed to be on the other side for a little weight distribution. Its not much but itll help even things out.
I removed the carrier bearing cross member, and welded in the boxing plates. Then I tacked in the cross member I made...and its not going to work. The short story is, my wife loves driving my Charger R/T. This started a discussion about the future engine we are going to put in the truck. I explained the cost of installing a 5.7 hemi, with a T56, and the benefits and we talked about it for awhile. She agreed it would be worth it, if we can afford to do it in the future. So, thats going to be the direction we are planning to go. The T56 will be quite a bit longer than the NP435. So, Im going to remove this cross member, and weld in some angle down the sides of the frame. Then I can bolt in a cross member. When the time comes, I can remove or relocate the driveshaft loop, and add a tail cone mount for the T56.
1st- The cross member that has to come out. I like it, but it need to be removable.
2nd-Tig practice. Im not dipping the tungsten every pass now, but I have a long way to go.
3rd- Last pass of the day. Started out pretty good, then went south. I went right to left.
4th-The upper shock hoop. Ill tie this in with the top of the a-arm mount. Should be very solid.
I started playing with the TIG welder today. Its just a cheap Lowes welder, but it does good. There is no pedal, so I have to get the amp setting just right before I start. I am getting better, but its a slow process for me. I made a few decent welds with it, but nothing to brag about. If I cant get it looking better, I may just tack together the A-arms, and pay a professional to weld them. Better safe than sorry on those.
I still need to finish the cross member pass throughs, but I wanted to get some other things going first. When I get all of this finalized, I flip the frame over and weld everything from the bottom too. Then we can paint the whole thing.
May I suggest that instead of a T56 you consider the TKO. When you compare dimensions, that will help make your decision. One other thought: a few parts on a 360 will make an easy 400 hp. The 5.7 conversion is pricey. It might be worth your time to look at the 360 magnum with some improvements. It may not be a good solution but if you look at all the choices, you shouldn't have any regrets. :)
I have not compared the T56 and the TKO directly. I have the space for it, its just an issue of making the transmission mount, and of course, the money. As for the 5.7 hemi, yes they are pricey. But a well built 360 with fuel injection and heads to make the 400 hp will be close to the cost of a pull out 5.7. Isaac was adamant about putting in a modern engine, but he wanted a hellcat 6.2, which will never happen. The real deciding factor will be the budget. Im trying to keep options open, and plan accordingly. It might have the little 318 forever, and that would be okay too.
It was a busy day of welding and grinding. I am trying to get all the grinding done before the weather gets really cold. So I filled some holes, and worked on the pass throughs.
As far as the pass throughs are concerned, Im going to leave them like they are. I am not worried about a few small pin holes here and there. I will cover all the frame gaps with seam sealer, or something like it, before paint. Its not a show truck, so welding and grinding everything until its perfect doesnt make sense. Plus I just dont have the skills yet. Itll be good enough for a nice driver.
The hole filling went well. Im not going to fill every little hole either. Im just not that worried about it. I will work on the front suspension more. I have to make it presentable before paint.
Then after Im happy with the top, Im going to flip it over and weld everything on the bottom. I think I can finish the top with another good solid 8 hour day, then it can be flipped over.
I got the pictures out of order, so sorry about that.
1st- Plug all welded up
2nd-The plug, made from 3/16" plate
3rd- All ground flush
4th-The hole. I think it was for the steering.
5th-Front face of the driver side rear passthrough. This will face forward, but be under the bed.
6th-Rear face of the drivers side forward passthrough. This is rear facing, under the drivers feet.
I have been busy cleaning the frame. Not a lot of pictures, but it is a lot of work. I have swept up probably 4 or 5 dust pans full of dust, rust, cut-off wheel debris, and all sorts of nasty stuff. Its a mess. I think I am finished now though. I got the frame flipped over, and finished some of the welds on the bottom because Im not good enough to weld overhead without screwing it up and burning myself. I have wire wheeled the whole frame, and actually scraped all the grease off of it. I finished the pass throughs, and the hitch mount. Ill post more pictures when its painted and ready for re-assembly. Im going to use some seam sealer and smooth out some things as I go. It should look pretty good.
Flipping the frame was a bit sketchy, but I got it. Ill post more pictures with details when its painted.
Good progress. :)
Ive been gathering parts and supplies for a few weeks, getting ready for a few long weekends around Christmas and the new year.
Got the bottom of the frame done and flipped it back over. I started seam sealing the frame in some areas, Im hoping itll come out okay. I also got the gas tank- its a 22 gallon tank for a 70 mustang. I took a chance, hoping it would fit. I didnt feel right putting in a 15 or 16 gallon. They seemed small. I searched and measured, and just took a chance. I know the topic has been covered, and I did multiple searches, sweptline forums and on google. I also knew to look at the mustangs, but I couldnt find a specific year, or size. Either way, it fits. The picture shows it on top of the rails, but it will be mounted to the bottom. I dont want to pull the bed to remove the tank. I also got the tow hitch/jack point welded up. I know its overkill, but I would rather overkill it than under do it and hurt someone. Ill also post a picture of the new bar ends that will go on the a-arms. I went ahead and got the bigger ones, so these are larger than what the suspension had originally. And these are forged.
Ill finish the seam sealing soon, and start painting, after I get the tank mounts fully installed. Then I have to make the a-arms. Ill do a detailed list when that happens.
Ill show more details of the pass throughs when Im finished with them. And in case anyone is wondering, Im raising the bed floor about 4-5 inches, so Ill put a gas filler in the back. Ill have to lower the tailgate to fill up, but I dont like the hole in the floor. It should work out good, and be in the middle, so I can fill up from either side.
1st- One of the pass through for lines and wiring. Itll look better when Im done.
2nd- 22 gallon tank from a 70 mustang. Ill raise the bed, and make a filler in the end.
3rd-Jack-point/tow hitch mount. I have a few more welds to add, but its basically done.
4th-new beefier bigger rod ends for the a-arms. I hope to start them early next year.
Didnt get much done over Christmas. I spent time with the family, and waited for more parts to come in. I did get the bars bent and cut for the a-arms. I only have one set finished, but I hope to get the rest done this week, and maybe start welding them up this weekend. I also got the gas tank installed.
This is a new chromebook, so I need to figure out how large to make the pictures.
The tank drops down about as far as the tow-hitch/jack point. Also, Ill add gussets at the ball joints before Im done. The lower needs a shock mount also, but I havent figured that out yet.
That tank fits really nice.
I think so. If it was 1/32" wider, it wouldnt fit. I totally guessed and it worked out.
Made some good progress this weekend. Im trying to get the heavy grinding and welding done before the weather turns. It has been nice and sunny here in Tennessee, with a little rain here and there. But I can still open the garage doors and let it air out.
Started on the driveshaft loop/cross member. Its tacked together for now. Ill put the engine and transmission in before I finalize it. The lower half comes off and still has room to be shortened, which Im sure it will need. Ill bolt it to the top.
The front suspension is coming together pretty good I think. I have the A-arms welded for the most part. I need to add the gussets and the shock mounts. I have to do both lower shock mounts to get an idea of how the top ones are going to go. So, Ill take some 3/16 plate to work and cut it on the big band saw. I already have the templates made. Then Ill tack them in, and look at the top.
I started looking into suspension travel. I looked at QA1s website and they recommend about 4 to 5 inches of compression, and 2-1/2 to 3 inches of rebound. I put the a-arms on and it hit the frame way before 3 inches of rebound, so I also cut a relief in the frame. I guess I should have just narrowed the frame up front. Actually, knowing what I know now, I should have done a front clip swap. Oh well...live and learn.
Anyway, problem solved, and everything seems to work as expected. I still have some work to do on the a-arms, but Im confident the frame is good now. I just need to finish seam sealing a few places, and paint it.
Im trying to make a big push and see if I can be back where I was last spring, with the truck together and running.
Top left-Driver side temporarily bolted in. It all seems to work well so far
Top right-Lower shock mounts. I changed them a little after this. Also ths a-arm is upside down here.
2nd row left-Passenger side. You can see the relief here. There is plenty of clearance now
2nd row right-Part of the process. It was messy, but it worked out just fine.
3rd row left- The spindle after reaming for the K772 ball joints. They fit pretty good.
3rd row right-Cross member and upper half of the drive shaft loop.
Bottom- The drive shaft loop complete. I will bolt the lower half on. I can also shorten it quite a bit.
The winter weather shut me down so I'm aware of what your against. I understand your motivation, also. You're doing well. :)
Okay, so a few more hours and I got the lower shock mounts tacked in. I didnt beat the weather like I had hoped. Its been in the low 20s here, so the garage is cold, but its insulated a little, and I can run a heater. Im also super busy this month with work and church, so Its going to be slow.
Anyway, I got the lower shock mounts done, and Im happy with them. I have the templates made for the uppers and the gussets for the upper a-arms. Ill try and finish this by this Saturday, but I have a crazy week ahead.
After these parts are done, I can finish welding them, and then finish the seam sealer, then its time to paint the frame. Im excited to see it all clean and neat again. Im ready to get this thing back together.
Top left- Upper mount template. They will be made from the same 3/16 plate I have been using.
Top right- Same side, looking forward. I tied them into the upper a-arm mount also. Should be plenty strong.
Bottom- Straight down. This was a little tricky. The frame tapers in so I matched the bar to that angle. The shock mounts need to be straight over the bottom mounts. I got it though, and I think it looks good.
I got about 6 or 7 hours in the garage today, trying to beat this latest winter storm. Got everything accomplished I wanted too, so its a good day.
I started this week by trying to cut the upper shock mounts on our saw at work. It was doing it, but it was taking forever. The blade might be dull, and I know 3/16 plate is no joke, but it was like an inch every 2 or 3 minutes . Anyway, I gave up on that, and used the plasma cutter. Im getting better with it, so Im not melting the tip every time I use it, and Im getting closer to my lines. There is still quite a bit of clean up afterwards though.
So I got those made, and installed them. Then I finished welding the control arms up. Ill have some small pin holes to go back over, but for the most part they are done. Ill be taking them to work this week to clean them on break and lunch. I have small angle grinders there that do a good job at the detail work.
I also have some clean up on the frame at the upper mounts, but I am happy with it. I got the fuel sender/float today, and removed the original tank yesterday. Im close to painting the frame, hopefully I can start that in the next week or two.
Top left- Upper shock mount roughed in
Upper right- Finished upper mount. Still needs clean-up
Middle left-Control arms ready for final clean-up and paint
Middle right-View looking forward. I like it. I think itll work out good.
Bottom- Another angle while roughed in (the order is all weird)
Finally got a break in the weather to paint. I have to do it outside because the fumes are so strong it makes everyone sick. I found that out the hard way last time...
Anyway, I missed a few spots and ran out of paint. Ill order more tonight and maybe Ill get to finish this weekend. Looks a ton better.