Thank you Joe! I got carried away w/Mark and forgot to pass along my sincere congratulations and awe on your Camaro build!
It is truly looking awesome! 🤟🏼
BR/Brian.
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John,
Get any flex lines you want. Just don’t get longer than 12”. There’s very little room there. I bought the Heidts IRS kit from eBay. Prior to purchase I contacted the seller who is an authorized distributor for Heidts, I also wanted him to research how or which subframe connectors I need because I have the chassisworks front subframe. He notified me that there were 2 versions (for stock subframes and for Heidts subframe) he then called Heidts tech support with my subframe measurements and needless to say it really worked out. Plus he threw in the stainless braided lines. Super nice guy!
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Thanks Brian, really appreciate it!
So first time doing brake lines and I have ZERO leaks! The flare tool I got is really great. There’s no second guessing whether the flare is done correctly. It’s one and done. I also ran fuel lines 3/8” nicopp covered with stainless stone guard. I also got the tank installed with the fuel pump and sending unit, and the driveshaft installed, loctite and torqued. Getting close to firing her up hopefully soon. Really dreading all the wiring! I’m in the process of fabbing up trans cooler lines. My whole driveline engine, trans, driveshaft, third member and housing is red. Which is a great contrast to the whole underneath which will be/is a satin black. I plan to ceramic coat the whole exhaust satin black too
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Looks great!!! Did you have your driveshaft built locally? At some point, I'll have to have one made.
Driveshaft is from driveshaft shop. I called Heidts and that’s what they recommended a CV driveshaft because the third member sits higher than the trans and slightly right so to eliminate any harmonics and weird angles that’s what they recommend.
Thanks guys for the positive feedback. I always try to reach out to the manufacturer as they have countless hour of R&D, however, Don and you Andrew are my 2nd source if the manufacturer doesn’t know something.
By the way. I had a little scare this week, I bled the clutch then a few days later I noticed a little drip on the tip of the trans coming from the bell housing. I thought the slave cylinder was leaking which means I’d have to pull the trans or engine and trans back out. This would really suck. But I think it was just some fluid that had leaked out of the nipple when I pulled the bleeder off. I wiped everything off and there hasn’t been any signs of fluid. So hopefully all is well???
Hmmm, interesting about the CV driveshaft. didn't know that. I found it strange, that in Heidts instruction it tells you to adjust the pinion angle at a certain point in the installation. How do you adjust pinion angle on something that is solid mounted?...lol
So the front portion of the shaft you have 2 joints?
John, also called them on that because I couldn’t adjust pinion angle. They said yeah, it’s not adjustable. Heidts said to get everything bolted loose, once everything is in then tighten all bolts down. But basically pinion angle isn’t adjustable. I have a CV joint at the front with a special adapter for the TR6060, in the rear I just have a regular 1350 u joint. The front that mates to the trans looks like this:
https://www.driveshaftshop.com/featu...automatic-only
Also something weird in the Heidts instructions it says in step 21 to tighten the axle shafts to specified torque on the axle shaft sticker. My axle shafts didn’t have any stickers so axle shafts have to be torqued to 65lbs with loctite. Heidts instructions definitely need much improvement. Also step 5 and 18 are exactly the same. They are telling you to do the same thing twice! I called them out on it. They said they would make a revision to the instructions.
My front subframe is from chassisworks, their instructions are amazing. Every step has color pictures and detailed description of what must be done. It came in a binder because there’s so many pics and pages. The Heidts instructions are like 3 pages with 2 diagrams.
Yes!!! their instructions definitely need improvement. Heck, I would be willing to rewrite them, for them, if it helped someone out.
I'm probably going to end up getting the new TKX trans, which should have a slip yoke. Haven't decided on that trans or just use the 4L80 I have.
65 ftlb almost seems kinda light on the torque, but with Loctite, I'm sure it's not coming loose.
A person would definitely need to be mechanically inclined to put a Heidts system together. I also notice no bump stop anywhere to limit suspension travel. There's nothing to keep the upper arm on the rear from contacting the frame. I ordered some Jounce Bumpers, to put on the shafts of the coil overs on all four corners, because the Heidt's front is the same way. You can literally bury the wheel, all the way up into the well, because there's nothing to stop the travel.
Your right, the upper arm does hit the frame before the shock is bottomed out. I’ll have to order those bumpers as well. Do you know what size to get? Or send me a link to what you order.
Just FYI. These are the ones I ordered. I was just going to cut them to the length I need.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-bc01
Thanks John!
I’d go with a urethane progressive bumpstop instead of a rubber one. AFCO has them in different rates. They cost more but should give a nicer ride.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afc-223527
Don
Thanks Don, I’m going to take the spring out and cycle the suspension all the way up and see what happens to the upper arm and shock. I noticed while under the car today that I have a bump stop inside my Qa-1 shock so maybe it will be enough.
Almost done making trans cooler lines, waiting on 2 more fittings to come in. Came out pretty clean and well hidden if I do say so myself. Also mounted the intercooler pump. Space is definitely becoming a premium.
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