So awesome to see you back at it. I spy some cool stuff on that firewall too.
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So awesome to see you back at it. I spy some cool stuff on that firewall too.
Hey, thanks Cory!
So the last step in the overall install, prior to geometry setup and alignment, is to seal off the area removed for the UCA to mate with the forward crossmember in the interior. Nothing says "Racecar" like true race car parts, Simpson have been some of the very first pioneers in race car safety and make excellent products. This is a fire-resistant boot designed to keep flames from entering the car in the case of fire, designed as a shifter boot. Works very well for this as well! It's a bit over-sized so after the perimeter sheet hold down is secured with self tapping sheet metal screws, a quick trim with a razor knife cleans things up.
Take care, be well!
Very nice Mark! Any reason an easily removeable sheet metal cover could be also used?
Hey guys,
A sheet metal cover could be used, but then it would require getting underneath the car and around the exhaust to adjust the inclination of the upper link. An alternative would be to use a jacking screw on the forward mount, and we'd absolutely be open to that if a customer wanted to go this way, which would still allow adjustment but then could be closed off with some tin. But it isn't something we have in hand today.
Have also been thinking about a "set and forget" configuration, where we pick the overall best geometry and don't offer the adjust-ability, and also drop in some compliant bushings to ease a bit of NVH. Kind of a "Touring" option. Already know which compliant bushings we would go with and at least one customer has expressed interest in this as well. But for a somewhat - to - very serious competitor, nothing beats the ability to tune all aspects of the suspension, which is our main current target market - "racers wanted!"
Say we're not a competitor but instead someone that enjoys $100 hamburger runs with friends in exotics and the occasional HPDE.
Would the 'set and forget' have any changes? Something like:
Hole #1 for fast tracks
Hole #2 for autox and tight tracks
Hole #3 for street driving
IE if we don't want to chase the last tenth, but want to have the car be as fun as possible in all conditions, what are the compromises of a set and forget?
Thanks!
The key word about the cover is "easily", as in a retainment tab + buckle or some other method. The idea is to keep the adjustability while helping reduce NVH. I for one would have zero issue taking a few minutes to R&R a cover, keep the adjustability, and increase cabin comfort.
@Carl: I saw this last night, thought about it all night, and agree with you. We will take this on, and this will be the standard going forward for both versions.
@Payne, and Don: Heard, loud and clear. We have other customers interested in a "Touring" version, so here will be the changes to that:
- We will substitute the forward FK Rod Ends for a very trick piece from our favorite Rock Crawler supplier, MetalCloak. You can see the novelty here, we use these on our personal Jeeps and they are amazing, better in every way than the "Johnny Joint" variations: https://metalcloak.com/duroflex-join...8-housing.html Check out the video on their website. Incredible, simple and extremely effective.
- The UCA Crossmember will only have one mounting hole, the same installation approach as the "Competition" version with the LCA brackets, etc, but will result in a slightly shorter bracket. Per above, will be sealed off with a sheetmetal cover.
- LCA brackets will be the same as the Competition version, so one will still be able to adjust SVSA/Anti-squat - it's "free."
To answer Payne's question on "set it forget it," this system in our experience will still outperform everything else we have seen out there in our strong opinion. All of the competition will take exception with that statement and we sincerely don't mean any disrespect to anyone at all, there are TONS of really great options out there. But the LD 3-Link systems address the main shortcomings: zero bind, eliminates brake hop in hard braking situations, significantly lighter and far less difficult to install (and WAY less expensive) that the current IRS offerings, TONS of room for exhaust tailpipes, etc. It even looks cool and racy, if you participate in the USCA events it will almost certainly help with the Design and Engineering subjectivity in the judging.
There's more work to do as a result, but honestly we anticipated this anyway so the changes for the "Touring" version are simple to implement.
Thanks for the feedback, it is sincerely appreciated!
Looks great Mark! super happy to see you getting the improvements you wanted in play! cant wait to see a few of these out there tracking ...
Love what I'm seeing here Mark. Keep up the good work.
You are also aware there are a LOT of G-Body guys trying to find better rear suspension setups for their cars...right? :drive1:
@Mark - As I said on the phone, I would suggest making the forward mount brackets the same spacing, so one could go back and forth between the touring arms and full rod ends. I too would enclose the upper forward mount in a sheet metal enclosure that's welded in place, with removable side panels to gain access to the adjustment point.
I'm dying to see the front!
Hey, thanks all! Appreciate the input and positive words.
@Erik: Yep, all of the pickup brackets will work with either the rod ends OR the Duroflex bushings, the only change will (probably) be a slightly shorter link arm for the bushing option, which is simple. Will reach back out to you this weekend with more info and details!
Take care, be well!
is there any reason for not useing a currie type johnnyjoint in a setup like this?
Hey Mark - Welcome back! Glad to see you are still hard at it!
Attachment 180437Attachment 180438
Thanks for dropping in Tony! Man it's been a long time, hope all is well with you and yours!
Here's a couple shots of an empty housing that we mocked up under the shop car for illustrative purposes. We wanted to show perhaps the primary objective of our design approach - zero bind. The unique aspect of the 3-Link approach over nearly all of the other stick axle suspension designs is the fact that it is completely free to move, freely, in the directions that we need (bump, droop, roll), but completely rigid in the directions that we need to preserve (lateral, linear, yaw). In this shot, the driver's side is 6" off of the deck, the passenger's side is 24". Inches. Not millimeters. That's Rock Crawling suspension travel. Obviously we don't need that much excursion for our hobby, but it does illustrate the lengths we go to in order to provide a non-friction, and therefore highly predictable/tunable system.
This is shown with all Heim/Rod Ends, but the rubber bushings we have selected for the "Touring" version are equally as flexible with the same benefit of extremely high articulation, and extremely low friction. You can have cake, or pie, and eat it too. With our help!
Any updates?
Small update while we await the completion of "Touring" version UCA mount and cover from the laser shop - we dropped 50+ new part numbers on them at the same time so taking a bit longer than typical.
In 1968, Chevrolet changed the rear bump stops from a simple unit that bolts onto the frame rail, to a formed plate with separate rubber bushing. We like the original approach, which is as simple as drilling a couple holes, and installing a "Nut Sert," shown in the tool kit. But not everyone has that tool, so we made a simple Nut Plate that gets welded onto the frame rail. With this, one can use a standard re-pop bump stop from a '67, or as we did here, grab some aftermarket ones. We are not a fan in general of poly type bushings, but non-issue here. Further, if you want to fine tune the setup, you can shim under the stops to drop them down a bit.