The first thing I did when I put similar spindles on my car was drill out the steering arms and put a 5/8' bolt in there.
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The first thing I did when I put similar spindles on my car was drill out the steering arms and put a 5/8' bolt in there.
So the stud that goes into the steering arm broke?
So I think I know why I had the part failure Sunday.
This is the good one from the passenger side...that hadn't broken...yet...
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...100012X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...095945X2-1.jpg
And this is the one that broke...
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...093925X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...094016X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...092756X2-1.jpg
Frankly, I'm surprised they lasted as long as they did all things considered. These Baer Bump Stop posts have been in these Speedtech Steering arms for 4 years...with just the top half of the taper making contact letting the bottom half move back and forth just slightly.
There are a TON of people that have broken these tapered studs apparently but I'm curious if they know exactly WHY they are breaking??? I do now...
So the taper on the stud is not quite right?
Wow just read the entire thread excellent build with a lot of good info. I am subscribing for updates, I have a 86 T-type with much of the same suspension on it that I hope to get on a track next year sometime.
So an update with a correction here... It seems that I had forgotten that I removed my Baer Bumpsteer pins when I installed the ATS spindles and steering arms and put in their place a Secret Sauce Allstar ALL56280 bump steer kit.
The details of the Allstar part are in the pic below, it clearly shows it has a Ford taper, not a GM taper. I guess we can just add this to an increasingly growing longer list of RSRT supplied part failures...
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...L56280X2-1.jpg
- - - Updated - - -
Congrats on making it through all of that! You deserve a prize or something!!! :D
If you ever have any questions just holler, I've probably already been there done that and hopefully can help you out.
Getting tired of getting my tail kicked by cars that corner exit better than mine, plans are in motion...
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...172824X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...172817X2-1.jpg
More updates to come soon...
3 link parts are in, install has begun. I'm so stoked about this, for sure the biggest upgrade I've made to the car since probably the Big Brake kit 4.5 years ago. I guess the big front sway bar was a big upgrade also, but this install will take care of a need this car has wanted for over 10 years. So happy to finally be making it happen.
First pics of the parts...
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...081528X2-1.jpg
Upper link frame and axle mounts
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...081536X2-1.jpg
Where the upper link bolts to the frame crossmember.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...074812X2-1.jpg
There is an included backing plate with locknuts welded to it that slides up between frame and body that the link bracket through bolts too.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...120217X2-1.jpg
Axle side gets welded to the housing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...115635X2-1.jpg
Frame side Pan Hard Bar mount bolts to frame in several locations with load spread all over the frame on both sides. Uses some existing holes to line up and some new holes had to be drilled. Here it is almost in it's spot during mock up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...124650X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...124723X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...124742X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...125117X2-1.jpg
Today's tasks involve drilling the holes and getting the frame side upper link bracket installed, then cleaning up and painting all the frame areas before attaching the PHB bracket for the last time. Then the plan is to take it to a friends place to weld the bracket to the housing and fab up some extra support for the axle side PHB mount then install it. I've got a local race on January 16th and really want to finish this up and get some street time on it tuning before then. It'll be tight, wish me luck.
Pretty slick!
Andrew
Now that your roll center is 23 feet lower than it was you will want more rear spring. Grab some extra bolts and toothed blocks for the PHB and keep them in your tool bag.
Past that, you are going to love not feathering the throttle on exit. Should be able to mash it and GO.
Can't wait to see how this works for you Lance! Do you think tailpipes will fit over the axle still? I'd love to put one on my Malibu.
Well... I certainly hope so because where I race most of the time, I have to pass sound and as it is right now...it ain't passing sound.
More progress made today. All fab work finished up, all parts freshly painted and shop cleaned up. Tomorrow final install, then road test!!! The turn downs on the mufflers really quieted it down a lot, I think it'll pass sound like this.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...162412X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...103047X4-1.jpg
Looks solid!
Andrew
As always with this car, packaging is TIGHT. It's all in there though, and it all fits. Bernie did an EXCELLENT job designing this setup. I'm impressed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...195205X2-1.jpg
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I hope I don't have to do much work on upper link at track as it's a bit hard to get too, but I shouldn't have too once I find it's happy spot.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...192558X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...192510X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...192401X2-1.jpg
Tomorrow morning I need to swap out the rear springs, then it's off for it's first test drive. Wish me luck...
So I did a bunch of flexing while the springs were out this morning. First I have to say, a 4 post drive on lift makes stuff like this SO much easier than a 2 post.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...091820X2-1.jpg
So, springs out, driver side full stuff to bumpstop, pass side full droop.
Here is tire with roll center at lowest point, 6.75"
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...091837X2-1.jpg
And here is that same except roll center is at the highest point 11.25"
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...093612X2-1.jpg
You can clearly see the difference in how the axle\tire rotate in roll by how the tire ends up in the fender. Pretty cool...
In static form, neither tire ever touches the frame or inner fender. They both come pretty close to the outer fender lip at full stuff though.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...093625X2-1.jpg
In dynamic form, I was able to get the passenger side to rub just a bit, on the outer fender lip I believe. I set the RCH at 9" for my initial test drive, right in the middle of adjustment range.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...101055X2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...101108X2-1.jpg
Upper link frame mount in middle hole, sway bar in middle holes, rebound in shocks in middle of adjustment range, RCH in middle of adjustment range...time for a test drive.
Right away I could feel a huge difference in how the rear end reacted. In hard transitions back and forth at 45 mph the back felt stuck like I've NEVER felt it before. I had a HUGE grin on my face right away. When being a bit more aggressive swerving back and forth I was able to get it to slide the inside front tire just a bit when on the gas...hinting that it's a touch on the tight side like this. Certainly drivable though. I'd race it like this...if I had too.
I did have a wheel hop problem though. It hops hard, from a dead stop, from a roll, even during a hard 1-2 shift. This is discerning and I need to adjust to correct this. First thing will be raising the front upper link up to the top hole. I also want the rear to roll just a bit less so I think I'll put the rear sway bar on stiffest hole and might put 185# springs in place of the 162# springs in it now. The stiffer springs and more rebound in the shocks may help tame the rear axle down as well.
Hopefully not too many changes at once and it'll be enough to let me feel like I can beat on it a bit harder next time out.
I'm also not sure if it's just the extra noise, or if the tailpipe delete option really opened up the exhaust, but it sure feels peppier when on the loud pedal!! Could just be the car forcing itself forward faster instead of just spinning the tires too.
What made you decide on a panhard bar instead of a watts link?
I had a nagging issue with my Firebird when it had a panhard bar. It would react differently on opposite direction turns as the body rolled.
The panhard would cause a lift in the rear on a hard right hand as the body side of the panhard went above horizontal.
I could feel the rear inside lift & then the front tire slide as it transferred weight to the opposite front corner.
It did not do this the same on left turns as the leverage of the bar was angled downward in relation to the body instead.
I'm asking as my panhard was much longer than yours, making me think you would have the same issue to a larger degree with a shorter bar.
I went to a Watts link & was amazed in the difference, plus there is no side-to-side axle movement as the body rolls.