Printable View
Andrew,
I've used the S&P engine mount plates (they look very close to the edelbrock mounts you show) before & they mounted the engine in the exact place that was occupied by a big block. Your trans should be in the same place & your driveshaft/shifter should not be affected by the new engine.
Those headers are pretty damn sweet.
Good luck.
Anyone have a water cooled credit card handy? :/
Andrew
Those mounts will put the engine back further than the SBC/BBC would have been. 1/4 - 1/2" it appears.
I like the direction you are heading so far. I think a carb intake would be a good way to go so you could retain the shaker. That would also keep it clean so you didn't have to worry about plumbing an air intake.
Actually just about all the other mounting plates out there move the engine forward for A/C compressor, and it still isn't enough to fit the compressor. We set the engine closer to the OEM location so things like tranmission shifter linkage and driveshafts will bolt right in. The biggest advantage to setting the engine back in the OEM location (our plates actually put the engine about 3/8" forward) is for better weight balance, move the engine forward and you give away a ton of vehicle balance. Here is a picture of an LS2 in a 1968 Chevelle.Quote:
Originally Posted by WS6
Parts are slowly starting to trickle in. I got the proper cam gear to use with the LS7 cam. I also got a take off C6 water pump.
For the sake of my sanity, I removed the lifter valley cover just to double check that this engine does not have Displacement on Demand. It does not.
https://www.pro-touring.com/%7Eandre...v2/photo09.jpg
Andrew
Received the Keisler aluminum bellhousing today. Nice piece.
https://www.pro-touring.com/%7Eandre...v2/photo10.jpg
Andrew
looks nice!
Lots of goodies showed up today including the L76 intake manifold kit:
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo11.jpg
Andrew
Today I took off the truck balancer and the front cover. This is what the VVT system looks like:
https://www.pro-touring.com/%7Eandre...v2/photo12.jpg
The VVT cam use a single bolt to attach the cam gear and VVT mechanism:
https://www.pro-touring.com/%7Eandre...v2/photo13.jpg
The LS7 cam uses the typical 3 bolt style cam gear. You just have to make sure to get the correct gear with the right pattern of bumps for the cam sensor. I got mine as a handy little kit from Lingenfelter.
https://www.pro-touring.com/%7Eandre...v2/photo14.jpg
Once the cam was installed I bolted on an LS2 from cover along with a C6 water pump and balancer. With the exception of the hollow stem valves, and of course the LS7 cam, this is pretty much an LS3 now.
https://www.pro-touring.com/%7Eandre...v2/photo15.jpg
I also installed the AutoKraft oilpan. I really wanted to use an OEM style cast pan, but no one seems to agree what pan will work best. So I went with something that is proven to fit and retains the oil filter in the stock location.
https://www.pro-touring.com/%7Eandre...v2/photo16.jpg
Tomorrow I will be installing some Patriot Gold dual springs and doing some minor detailing.
Andrew
looks awesome andrew!! cant wait for a ride:drive1:
wow looks awsome! glad your making such solid progress!
Andrew, I know it's a little late now but the F-body pan fits with alittle rounding of the corners at he bottom of the pan by the crossmember. We put on in a 70 elcamino worked great. On your L92 heads did you do any work to them. To make them work even better you need to clean up the exhaust side posts and if you deck the heads you can get some really good power out of them. Glad to see you back on the car.
I have read other people using F-body pans, but I am not sure it would work in my case. It is critical in my case that the bellhousing location stay in exactly the same place as it was with the big block. I am not planning on changing anything rear of the engine. I think the f-body pan does fit, but the engine needs to be pushed further back, and that is not an option for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadRS69
I just have 4 more springs to install and I can button it up.
Andrew
Looking forward to your journey part II!Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewb70
Is that L92 a takeout? I'll be following in your footsteps.
Thanks, Andrew.
The L92 is new, purchased as a GM reject. It was on a railcar that derailed and the intakes were damaged.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Dorion
More progress over the weekend. I finished installing the Patriot Gold dual springs and hardened pushrods. I am pretty sure I went overkill on the springs, but I figure if I don't like this LS7 cam, I can just stab another one in it without having to worry about the springs.
Next I wanted to check the alignment of the Keisler bellhousing. I took the engine off the stand and placed the bellhousing against the block. Tick, tick, tick, tick...it was rocking back and forth. No good. I inspected it and it looks like someone dropped the bellhousing after it was machined. It put a slight dent on the corner and didn't allow the bellhousing to sit flat against the block. Little work with the file and it was good to go. This is a perfect example of why parts should be mocked up before installing them in the car. I may not have noticed this if I was on my back, under the car, trying to install it.
Next I wanted to check the alignment. I first measured the flatness. Very impressive, at .001".
Next I wanted to check the runout. I installed the dial indicator so it would ride on the inside of the bearing retainer register. This is what centers the transmission in the bellhousing. I set the indicator to zero.
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo17.jpg
Rotated the engine 90 degrees. Still zero. Good.
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo18.jpg
Rotated another 90 degrees. .005". Not bad.
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo19.jpg
Rotated another 90 degrees. .004". Great.
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo20.jpg
So the most the needle moved was .005". Divide that by 2 and you get total runout of .0025". Well under the recommended .005". Other than the minor issue with the bellhousing, I am pretty impressed.
Next it was time to see how the input shaft engages the pilot bearing. I am using a stock LS7 pilot bearing. I am happy with the engagement.
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo21.jpg
Then I wanted to install the clutch so that I can take some measurements for getting the right hydraulic throw out bearing. Everyone should have a nice clutch alignment took. This one is from Quarter Master and is way better than a plastic one.
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo22.jpg
There you have it, clutch and bellshousing installed. I am using a stock LS7 clutch on an LS2 flywheel. Heavy, but it will drive great. The distance from the clutch fingers to the outside of the bellhousing was 3.25". I will elaborate on why that's important later.
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo23.jpg
I used some high temp "cast aluminum" paint to add a little detail to the valve covers.
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo24.jpg
Time to start working on the car and get it ready for the engine. I want to redo some of the wiring as well as some of the fuel lines in the engine compartment.
Andrew
Good progress Andrew...almost looks like it will be ready for Year One.
Thanks Rubes. I really wasn't planning on going to Year One, but I just might.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubes
Andrew
you need to go to year one. looks awesome,
Andrew the ls1 we put in the elcamino was with a 4 spd using all the stock componets. Everything is in the stock GM location. I made new frame mounts and used the stock f-body mounts. I was supprised it fit so good, but you already have an awsome pan so no big deal. Keep the pictures coming.
Lookin good! Can't wait to check it out in person.:hail: