Comprehensive TKO transmission guide for first gen Camaros
Tremec TKO Installation and Tech Guide for 1967-69 Camaros
By
Classic Chevy 5-Speed
We get a lot of great questions about the specific issues that are involved when installing a Tremec TKO transmission into a first Gen Camaro so we thought we would compile the answers in one place. This list should be pretty complete but there is always something new that comes up.
“1967-69 CAMARO SPECIFIC” TKO INSTALLTION INFORMATION
TKO Fitment
For the vast majority of first gen Camaro/TKO installation, you will not run into any tunnel fitment issues. With that said there are a few issues that can make this installation a little more challenging. These potential issues include worn or crushed body mount bushings or a misaligned subframe.
Tunnel clearance issues
Although it is rare, we have seen examples where clearance is limited, or non existent, between the top of the transmission to the bottom of the floor pan. We have found that worn or crushed body mount bushings, non-stock shorter style body bushings, an incorrect transmission mount, incorrect motor mounts or motor mount perches, or floor sag are some of the reasons for this problem and in most cases can be easily corrected.
To determine if you have floor sag, first check to make sure your body mounts are in good condition, that you have the correct perches, and the correct motor mounts. If you still have clearance problems it could be that there is some floor sag. This is not an uncommon problem in a first gen Camaro. A good indicator to detect floor sag is that you will have a difficult time removing the stock cross member without first removing or loosening the rear frame bolts. Also, severe floor sag can be detected by looking through the back window at the front bucket seats and see if they are tilted towards each other.
To correct floor sag there is a very unscientific yet very effective remedy that consists of a floor jack and a solid piece of 4x4 about 24” long. After the car is safely supported on stands, the 4x4 is placed in the factory stamped indentations in the floor that are there to accommodate the cross member. Next, position the floor jack in the center of the 4x4 and jack up the floor gently! You can move the 4x4 six inches at a time toward the front of the car until you get to the area where the floor angles up toward the firewall. Use caution doing this and go a little at a time. It is advisable to measure the floor position before you start and then after each time you attempt to correct the problem. You will be surprised at how easily the floor will move. It may be necessary to trim the front console bracket bolts to provide clearance for the forward transmission cover plate. ¼” of clearance between the floor and the transmission is all that is required for an acceptable fit. The tallest point on the transmission is the vent, Clearance at this point should be about ¼”. If you have any questions please call us
Misaligned subframe
Incorrect subframe alignment due to a collision or improper reinstallation after a restoration can result in your shifter being positioned incorrectly within your stock center console. If your shifter does not fit within your console properly because of sub frame misalignment, you can talk with us about purchasing an optional McLeod Slik Stix shifter with a custom offset to correct this. Although it usually does not warrant concern, a misaligned subframe can also result in incorrect driveshaft fit.
Shifter Location & Center Consoles
The dead center of the stock 4-speed shifter hole in the floorboard of a 68-69 Camaro happens to be 17 3/8” back and from where the transmission mounts to the bellhousing. Also, the hole is offset to the driver’s side by ¾” from the centerline of the tunnel. 1967 models have the same offset from center (3/4”) but the center of the stock hole is 1 ¼” further forward when compared to the ‘68-69 models. In other words the center of the hole for the ’67 is 16 1/8” back from where the transmission attaches to the bellhousing.
When using the stock Tremec shifter, that is included with the transmission, the shifter stub will not be exactly “dead center” in your stock console but it will be very close. By simply unbolting the stock shifter, rotating it around 180*, and then re-installing it on the transmission, you will position the shifter 16.75” back from the front of the transmission. With slight modifications to the floorboard and to the plastic shift tunnel piece (the piece that extends from your console shift plate down to your carpet) this position will work for 67-69 Camaros. These modifications are relatively minor and are effectively undetectable.
If you do not want to make any of these modifications and you are looking for a performance oriented shifter, CC5S has optional low-profile shifters available for ’67 models as well as 68-69 models with the proper offsets for dead center shift stick position within your stock console. Additionally, due to the lower profile of these shifters, the shifter fits underneath the floorboard and console which means there are no console or floorboard modifications required.
If you do not have a center console, most people will elect to use the stock Tremec shifter that is included with the TKO. This shifter is a nice piece – it is built by Hurst for Tremec.
You can view several pictures of TKO’s installed into various car models using both the Tremec shifter and the offset shifter: http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/im...c_Purchase.htm.
Click here to read more about the offset shifter and how it is designed: http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/TK..._positions.htm.
Crossmembers
The TKO transmission is longer than the stock Muncie or automatic transmission found in older cars. When creating our TKO kits, to make the installation easier and to achieve a driveline angle that is within tolerance, we have designed a custom crossmember especially for the first generation Camaros & Firebirds. Modifying your stock crossmember for use with a TKO is possible but it will involve cutting and welding of the crossmember and possibly re-drilling your frame rails as well making some floor pan modifications between the frame rail and floorboard. Using a custom TKO crossmember designed specifically for the first gen cars is a bolt-in situation that saves time and headaches, requires no modifications to your car, and achieves the proper driveline angle.
Depending on whether you have a big block or small block, there are two different crossmembers for the first gen Camaros. When installing a TKO, if you have a big block motor and you are using the stock big block motor mount perches which position the motor a bit closer to the passenger side of the car, you will need to use a special big block Camaro TKO crossmember. If you have a small block motor you would use the small block Camaro TKO crossmember.
Clutch pedals & linkage for auto to manual swaps:
The TKO transmission can use the stock clutch linkage found in a stock 4-speed car. When you are converting from an automatic to the TKO you will need to purchase a clutch/brake pedal assembly as well as the clutch linkage components. You have two options with regard for pedals and linkage. First, if you would prefer to work with original GM parts, you can these parts from a Camaro salvage yard. Alternatively, you can purchase a reproduction set of pedals and linkage – these parts are readily available in a kit format from the various Camaro parts suppliers including Classic Chevy 5-Speed. Buying reproduction parts is definitely convenient and easy. These kits usually cost around $150-$200.
Hydraulic clutch linkage
Instead of using the stock mechanical linkage, you can use a hydraulic clutch set up with the TKO if you prefer. You can choose to use either a hydraulic master cylinder with a slave cylinder or a hydraulic master cylinder and hydraulic throw out bearing combination. It is critical to make sure to attach the hydraulic master clutch pedal push rod in the correct geometric location on the clutch pedal. A bracket designed to properly install the master cylinder to the firewall will need to be fabricated. The Classic Chevy 5-Speed hydraulic clutch kit includes a custom firewall mount bracket designed specifically for the master cylinder installation.
As mentioned above, on the other end of the master cylinder you will install either a hydraulic throw out bearing or a hydraulic slave cylinder. The hydraulic TO bearing installs onto the front of the transmission and takes place of the clutch fork and stock throw bearing. The benefit to the hydraulic TO bearing is that it conveniently sits inside of the bellhousing allowing more room for headers.
The slave cylinder is installed onto the exterior of the scattershield with a mounting bracket that needs to be fabricated and uses the stock clutch fork and stock TO bearing. The benefit to the slave cylinder is that if you need to replace it you will not need to remove the transmission and bellhousing as you would with the hydraulic TO bearing. The tough part about the slave cylinder option is that it often interfers with headers.
GENERAL TKO INSTALLTION INFORMATION
Speedometer hook up
The TKO is set up to work with either your stock mechanical speedometer or an aftermarket electric speedometer. When using the stock mechanical speedometer gauge, the solution is to use a custom speedometer cable with an integrated adapter that is designed for use with the TKO. This set up will also come with the correct speedometer driven gear to match up with your rear gears and rear tire size. If you are using an aftermarket, electrical speedometer gauge such as an Autometer, you will use the electric speedometer pick up located on the passenger side of the transmission case. Simply plug in the correct pigtail adapter and attach the two wires to the correct leads from your electric speedometer gauge. If you are using an electric speedo, make sure to properly plug off the mechanical speedometer adapter hole with the correct plug (Tremec part #30360-1X). Custom speedometer cables and electric speedometer plug in kits are often available form the company that you purchased your transmission.
Driveshaft Length, Slip Yoke, and Ujoint Sizes
The TKO’s output shaft sits about 3/8” within the rubber dust boot that is part of the TKO’s rear seal. Knowing this, you should be able to see approximately 0” to as much as ¾” of the slip yoke shaft showing past the tip of the rubber dust boot. If you can see ¾” of slip yoke showing, this means that you actually have 1 1/8” (3/8” + ¾”= 1 1/8”) of slip yoke that extends past the tip of the output shaft. If the slip yoke is compressing the rubber dust boot, your driveshaft would be too long. If the slip yoke is just touching the tip of the dust boot, your driveshaft length is fine.
The TKO has a 31 spline output shaft and uses a C6 31 spline slip yoke. It is recommended that you use a Spicer brand slip yoke for best fitment.
The most common rear ujoint size found on a first gen Camaro is the 1310 size.
The proper driveshaft length when installing a TKO transmission into a ‘67-69 Camaro with a stock rear end is 47” from centerline of front ujoint to centerline of rear ujoint. The stock driveshaft diameter is 3”.
Choosing the proper driveshaft for your application
There are several factors that you need to consider when selecting the best driveshaft/slip yoke/ujoint combination – especially if you have a high horsepower motor or if you are using slick tires, nitrous or other power adders (superchargers, blowers, etc.). The following are general guidelines for driveshaft selection:
Generally speaking, if your car is mostly street driven (occasional street fun and mild strip action), has street tires (not slicks), and is under 500 HP, the stock size driveshaft (3” steel) and stock size rear ujoint (1310) will probably be adequate.
•If you are above 500HP with street tires, you should consider a 3.5” diameter driveshaft and the larger 1330 ujoint and 1330 rear pinion yoke.
•If your motor is producing more than 500HP and you have slicks, or if you are using a blower or nitrous, you should consider a 3.5” or 4” diameter shaft with 1350 ujoints. This will require upgrading to a 1350 pinion yoke to match the larger ujoints.
•Some people like to use aluminum driveshafts instead of steel. The aluminum driveshaft costs a bit more money but offers the following benefits: same strength as steel, 30%-40% lighter than steel, and can absorb vibrations better. If weight savings is not an issue a steel driveshaft should be adequate.
When in doubt, check with your driveshaft professional to select the proper combination for your needs.
Driveline & ujoint angles
When installing a non-stock transmission such as a TKO into a classic Chevy, we occasionally receive questions about driveline & ujoint angles. Some of the questions that come up are: why do I have to worry about angles, aren’t ujoints supposed to solve angle problems? Or: I have a vibration, is it being caused by my driveshaft? The following rules of thumb and the attached link should help you understand ujoints and their limits and help you put your driveline together without problems.
Both the transmission output shaft (which includes the entire crank centerline of the engine) and rear end pinion should both be on the same angle (parallel, or as close as possible). The ujoints should have an EQUAL (within 1*) AND OPPOSITE (to each other) ANGLE of no more than 3.5 degrees. This is a perfect world setting, but we all know that's not always achievable. The closer you can get to these specifications the longer your ujoints will last. The farther from these settings you go, the lifespan of the ujoints is reduced and the possibility of vibration associated with them increases. This does not mean that you will have a vibration that you can feel if you are not right on these specs. The goal should be to get as close as you can. Ujoints MUST have at least a ½ degree angle to operate. A ujoint that is zero angled will not last very long. There are a lot of modified cars on the road with less than desirable ujoint angles and they run with no noticeable vibration but their lifespan will be shortened. Another thing to consider is spring wrap which is a very important thing to consider when diagnosing a vibration problem. There have been a lot of people who have incorrectly diagnosed a driveshaft vibration and have blamed the driveshaft when it isn't the problem at all. When accelerating and decelerating the pinion angle changes. When accelerating the pinion goes up, when decelerating the pinion goes down. This changes the ujoint angle drastically, especially at the rear. If your springs are weak or if you have a lot of horsepower with good traction, this can be a real problem because as the angle increases beyond acceptable limits the vibration gets worse. Try to get your angles as close as you can then worry about stabilizing the rear end if it becomes an issue. Have a look at the link here. It should help you further. Thanks to the Driveline Doctors for this.
http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html
One other thing to consider is driveshaft RPM and length. The faster a driveshaft spins and the longer it is there is a greater possibility of the “skipping rope effect” to occur. This is very dangerous as the drive shaft will want to fold in half and we don’t need to talk about why this is not a good thing. Make sure you talk to your supplier about your intentions with your car. The supplier of your drive shaft will work with you to get the correct length and material thickness for your application.
Clutch Fork Alignment & Throw Bearing Adjustment
If you are using a stock GM bellhousing you will simply need to use a stock length throw out bearing, stock clutch fork, and stock ball stud. No clutch fork adjustments are required.
If you are using a scattershield you will need to make sure your clutch fork and TO bearing are properly adjusted. Using an adjustable TO bearing and/or an adjustable ball stud will help you achieve the clutch fork angle that is required. Click on this link to see an illustration and detailed instructions: http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/fi...ring_instr.pdf.
Pilot Bearing Removal
Pilot bearing/bushing removal can be accomplished in different ways. Packing grease behind the bearing to press it out is one method but here is a tool we found that makes the job clean and easy. Visit www.springertool.com to purchase this specialty tool. Click here for a picture: http://www.springertool.com/files/3sizes_1.jpg.
Bellhousing Alignment
Before installing your new Tremec TKO transmission, it is important to make sure that your bellhousing or scattershield is properly aligned with the centerline of the crankshaft. The alignment process is called “dial indicating”. If using a stock GM bellhousing or a Lakewood scattershield, dial indicating is necessary before installing your transmission. If you are using a McLeod scattershield or a CC5S reproduction aluminum bellhousing and your motor has not been line bored, checking alignment is not necessary as these scattershields are built to within .005" of the crank centerline (the max required run out for installing a TKO)***. A bellhousing that is not centered with the crank can result in poor shifting, clutch engagement problems, worn pilot bearing, as well as accelerated wear on the transmission itself.
*** If you choose to check alignment a McLeod scattershield, do so without the silver register ring installed in the register hole – checking alignment with this ring in place will give you a false reading.
Unfortunately checking the alignment can be a tedious task, especially if the engine is still in the car. To check for proper alignment, you will need a dial indicator, some basic tools, and a bit of patience.
Checking bellhousing alignment
1. Making sure that dowel pins are clean and free from dirt and/or paint, securely mount bellhousing to the engine block, and torque all bellhousing-to-engine bolts to specification. If you are using a scattershield, make sure the block plate is installed. Make sure your stock dowel pins protrude out far enough to let the scatter shield and block plate fit on the flat part of the dowel and not the tapered part. If the scattershield is resting on the tapered part this can cause inaccurate measurements. It may be necessary to tap the stock dowels out far enough to allow this. Moroso makes longer straight dowels for this purpose.
2. Install dial indicator base on the flywheel and adjust plunger to contact the inside edge of the register bore of the bellhousing. If you need to create space for the dial indicator base to sit flat on the flywheel, remove two of the flywheel bolts that are directly across from one another.
3. With the dial indicator mounted correctly, rotate the crank 360* and note the indicator readings. Using an inspection mirror to read the gauge as it rotates is helpful. Mark your readings at the 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 positions. This will give you an indication of which direction you need to move the housing - if necessary. Make sure to double check your readings. The total travel of the needle, divided by two, equals your reading – this reading is the amount of misalignment between the crank centerline and the bellhousing bore. Tremec specifies a maximum misalignment, or “runout” of 0.005". If you have more than .005” runout you will need to correct this by using offset dowel pins. If your reading is 0.005” or less, your bellhousing is within tolerance and you are finished with this process. If you have between 0.005” – 0.040” misalignment, you can correct it by using the correct offset dowel pins (proceed to step #4). If your misalignment is greater than 0.040” you have either measured incorrectly or there is a problem with your bellhousing and it will likely need to be replaced.
Bellhousing alignment procedures
1. To correct misalignment, you will need to use offset dowel pins. We have found an excellent set of offset dowel pins from RobbMc Performance Products (www.robbmcperformance.com). The job is much easier with these dowel pins.
2. Start with the indicator at the 12 o’clock position and turn the engine 360 degrees (one full turn). Mark the locations where the reading is highest and lowest. These readings may cover a large area but will help determine which direction to move the housing to correct misalignment. Now put the indicator in the center of the area of the LOWEST reading and ZERO the indicator (for example, if the lowest reading was between 7 and 9 o’clock you would put the indicator at 8:00. Now rotate the engine until you get the highest plus or positive reading – in this example it should be somewhere near 2:00. If the reading is .014” you would need to move the housing towards 2:00 by .007”. If it were .020” you would move it .010”. After the initial learning curve you will understand how this process works. Remember that all readings are divided by two. This can be a frustrating process. Have some patience and use a notepad to record your measurements, not the face of the bell housing as it will get full of measurements quickly. After your dowel pins are in you can turn them as needed to get the required alignment.
To install offset dowel pins, first remove the stock dowel pins by driving them through from the back with a brass drift or by using gripper pliers – sometimes this can difficult to do, especially with the engine still installed in the car. Another way to remove the dowels is to remove stock dowels with a slide hammer. To do this try using a 1/4"-28 attachment on the slide hammer. Next, drill the dowels and tap them to accept the 1/4"-28 attachment and then use the slide hammer accordingly.
Properly clean engine block dowel pin holes and lightly coat with lubricant.
4. Lubricate dowel pins and install them into engine block. The slot of the dowel pins DOES NOT indicate the direction of maximum offset. You must find the high spot on the dowel with the dial indicator and mark it so the dowels can be installed parallel to one another.
5. Install bellhousing and torque bolts to specification. Re-mount the dial indicator and recheck runout by repeating step #3. Small corrections can be made by loosening the bellhousing bolts and turning the dowels with a screwdriver to bring the bellhousing within limits.
GENERAL INSTALLATION TIPS
Before installing your transmission, make sure that the shifter can be moved into all gears properly and that the transmission can be turned freely by turning the input shaft with your hand. It is possible that the shift forks could have been knocked out of alignment during shipping. This is very rare but important to check and easily correctable.
Plugs, Wires, and Adapters
• The two brass studs on the driver’s side of the transmission case are the leads for the reverse light switch. Your kit includes a convenient plug-in pigtail connector available for an easy connection to your existing reverse light switch wires.
• The wires & plug located at the tailshaft on the driver’s side is the neutral safety switch harness. If you choose to not use a neutral safety feature you can: a) tie off the harness with a zip tie; b) cut the wires at the base of the switch – the switch itself will act as a plug; c) remove the harness and replace it with a brass plug. Alternatively you can make the switch functional by tying it into the starter motor and/or clutch pedal.
• The black sensor/plug on the passenger side is the electric speedometer sensor. If you are using an electric speedometer we have a convenient pig tail connector.
• The rubber plug on the lower, driver’s side of the tailshaft is the mechanical speedometer adapter location. To install your speedometer cable and adapter, remove the rubber plug, insert the adapter, and secure with the ¼”x 20 x 12 coarse thread screw that is provided with your speedometer cable/adapter. Do not overly tighten this bolt. Make sure to apply grease to the inside of the gear where it slips on to the adapter.
If you plan to use the electric speedometer pick-up instead of a speedometer cable, it is important that you properly plug and seal the mechanical speedometer adapter hole. Included in our electric speedometer kit is a plug, bolt and lock washer specifically for this. You can also find this plug at your local Ford dealer (part #F2UZ7H183A).
• There is a rubber, protective “donut” on the output shaft that needs to be removed before you can install your slip yoke. Be careful not to damage the rear seal when removing this piece.
Other Useful Information
• You will notice a part number of 3550 on the outside of your shipping box as well as on the metal ID tag that is bolted to your transmission case. This number identifies that your TKO is from Tremec’s 3550/TKO family of transmissions. You will also notice your specific Tremec TKO500 or TKO600 model # on the metal ID tag. Part #TCET5009 = TKO600 (.64 5th); TCET4618 = TKO600 (.82 5th); TCET4616 = TKO500. Please make sure that this tag identifies the transmission that you ordered.
• You should check all threads on all threaded holes and bolts before you begin your installation.
• When bolting shift handle to shifter stub, torque to 25 ft-lbs and use moderate strength thread lock.
• If you are installing your transmission and engine as a unit, consider removing your transmission crossmember. This should give you a better angle when using your engine hoist. Also, having your car high on jack stands will help to give you a better installation angle.
• If you are converting from an automatic and you need to cut a hole in your tunnel to accommodate the shifter turret, consider using a 4” hole saw for a clean installation.
• For the transmission-to-bellhousing bolts, Tremec recommends tightening these bolts to 60-80 ft-lb. Because it is difficult to tighten a traditional hex head bolt in the upper, right mounting location, using an allen head bolt is a good solution. The bolt size for these mounting locations is: 1 ½” X ½” X 13 (coarse thread).
• The transmission mount-to-transmission case bolts require using 10mm coarse thread bolts.
• Before installing your new transmission it is advisable to test fit the clutch disc on the input shaft of the transmission for smooth operation. This will insure that there will be no problem inserting the input shaft during transmission installation. When installing transmission to bellhousing, if engagement is difficult or you find resistance in the transmission seating all the way in, it may be a clutch alignment or a pilot bushing/bearing problem. DO NOT force the transmission into the bellhousing using the transmission bolts. This can cause damage to the clutch disc or pilot bearing/bushing and may even break the transmission housing. Attach the clutch linkage and depress the clutch pedal slowly while sliding the transmission forward. This will help to align clutch disc with the input shaft and pilot bearing. Next, tighten bolts to 60-80 ft-lbs. If you find that there is resistance within the last ½” or so of installation, it may be that the bronze pilot bushing or steel needle bearing was damaged when it was installed. Use care and the correct tools to install a pilot bushing or bearing. Caution: At NO TIME should the transmission be allowed to hang in the bellhousing without being seated all the way in with at least one bolt in hand tight to ensure it does not slide out. Allowing this to happen can result in serious damage. Have an assistant hold the transmission in place while the clutch pedal is being depressed to correct alignment and properly seat the transmission.
• When using a Chevy roller pilot bearing, make sure that the “sealed” side of the bearing is facing towards the transmission. Pontiac pilot bearings do not have a “sealed” side and can be installed with either side facing the transmission.
Torque Specifications*
• Flywheel bolts; 7/16" fine (grade 8): 60 - 65 lbs.
• Flywheel bolts; 1/2" fine (grade 8): 70 - 75 lbs
• Pressure plate; 3/8 coarse (grade 8): 35 - 40 lbs.
• Bell housing to engine block; 3/8" coarse (grade 5 or higher): 35 lbs.
• Transmission case to stock GM bellhousing; 1/2" coarse (grade 5 or higher): 65-70 lbs.
• Transmission case to steel scattershield; 1/2" coarse (grade 5 or higher): 70-75 lbs.
*Unless otherwise specified by the fastener or hardware manufacturer.
Break-in and Maintenance
• Caution: There is no oil in your transmission - your transmission is shipped dry. To properly break in your transmission, first fill case with appropriate transmission fluid – approximately 5.28 pints. Fill through filler plug located on the passenger side of the transmission. Use GM Syncromesh part #12345349. In normal use cases a “fill for life” should be adequate. You can buy GM Snycromesh at any Chevrolet dealership. For severe use situations regular fluid changes should be prescribed.
• For break-in purposes, with the car on jack stands, start the car and run through all of the gears for 15 minutes. Be careful not to only shift into reverse while at idle. Drive responsibly for the first 500 miles to allow the transmission and clutch to properly break-in. It is not necessary to drain and refill your transmission after the 500 mile break-in period.
We hope you have found this information useful. Feel free to contact Classic Chevy 5-Speed if you have questions about your project.
Sincerely,
The Classic Chevy 5-Speed Team
Contributing writers:
Jim Goodlad, Classic Chevy 5-Speed
Jeff Mortenson, Classic Chevy 5-Speed
Scott Lindquist, Classic Chevy 5-Speed
Kyle Forster, Tremec Corporation
Jim Averill, Tremec Corporation
Red Roberts, McLeod Industries
Jeff Gilroy, Inland Empire Driveline
Jody Haag, Jody’s Transmissions
Wally Knight, Muncie4speed.com
DISCLAIMER:
These installation notes are a collection of information gathered from the sources listed above as well as from individuals and professional mechanics who have installed these transmissions into various cars. To the best of Classic Chevy 5-Speed's knowledge, this information is accurate; however it is in no way guaranteed. Further, these notes are provided to help you plan your transmission installation and are to be used as guidelines only. Every car is unique and will represent unique challenges. If your car is not stock, the above guidelines may not apply to your situation. You need to take responsibility for your own installation. When installing your transmission, be sure to follow proper torque & alignment specifications. Also, it is important to follow proper break-in procedures. The contributors to this article are not responsible, in any way, for any damage, financial or otherwise, to you or your vehicle.
