Ah ok it looked bigger in the pictures. Thanks!
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Car Year & Model: 70 Ford Mustang Fastback
Competing in: Track Car & Occasional NASA TTU races
Front Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior
Rear Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior
Engine: Track-Warrior 3 LS7 700 HP
Trans: PPG Sequential Shift T56 6-Speed
Brakes: StopTech 14” ST60/ST40
Owner: Greg Weld
Builder: Randy Chastain – One Off Customs
This dyno sheet is Greg's engine. It is our "Track Warrior 3 LS7".
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You can see a detailed list of all the internal components in our catalog HERE.
Three things should stand out ...
1. The build components are almost overkill for "only" 700hp. That's to increase longevity.
2. The ARE dry sump is simply the best dry sump & best protection for the engine in a car with high G's.
3. The power curve is relatively "linear" which makes these engines easier to drive fast.
A few other notes:
A. The "dead on" dyno at Scoggin-Dickey shows 707hp. It will make 8-11 more horsepower once we we change the oil from Driven BR break-in Oil to Driven LS oil.
B. We did NOT dyno the engine with step headers. If we did the top end power would be the same, but the power band from 2500 to 6000 would show higher & even flatter.
C. Greg's headers are the RSRT "tuned" Step Headers ... 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" to 2.0" and will have that additional power from 2500 to 6000 & be even more linear.
D. This same engine with the very basic, single stage GM OEM LS7 dry sump makes about 15 less HP.
E. The happy window power curve on this particular Track-Warrior engine is 2500-7500rpm on track.
The Front end, hood & doors mount this week. Powertrain next week. Still on track to track test June 28th. :)
:cheers:
Car Year & Model: 70 Ford Mustang Fastback
Competing in: Track Car & Occasional NASA TTU races
Front Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior
Rear Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior
Engine: Track-Warrior 3 LS7 700 HP
Trans: PPG Sequential Shift T56 6-Speed
Brakes: StopTech 14” ST60/ST40
Owner: Greg Weld
Builder: Randy Chastain – One-Off Customs
I'm back from my 10-day family vacation in Yosemite. While the awesome crew at SDPC Raceshop & my EFI Guru Scott Clark were wrapping up the LS7 engine ... Randy Chastain at One-Off Customs made a LOT of progress on the car. See photos below!
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Quick Contest !
First 3 people to accurately list what the 6 items are in the photo, get a free RSRT T-shirt.
* Shipped free anywhere in the 48 continental US states.
** Contest ends June 15th, or when we have 3 winners, which ever comes first.
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Car Year & Model: 70 Ford Mustang Fastback
Competing in: Track Car & Occasional NASA TTU races
Front Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior
Rear Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior
Engine: Track-Warrior 3 LS7 700 HP
Trans: PPG Sequential Shift T56 6-Speed
Brakes: StopTech 14” ST60/ST40
Owner: Greg Weld
Builder: Randy Chastain – One-Off Customs
More progess = more photos ! We're on track with this car for initial testing in 20 days !!!
Steel wheel tubs
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Dash with Autometer Digital Dash system, including data acquisition.
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Tilt & Telescoping collapsible safety steering column.
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Front end, hood & doors mock up for fitment
* Reminder: This 70 Fastback is widened 6". 3" per side. Greenhouse (Roof) is factory width.
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Here are the StopTech Brakes optimized by Ron Sutton
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Ron- do you have any pictures of how you run a brake duct from the framerail to the rotor?
Thanks!
what gauge sheet did you use for the bracket that holds the body to the frame? Im doing something similiar and was gonna use 1/8 inch but figured that would be overkill. Ill be using a steel body. Leaning towards 14 gauge for the bracket. Do you think that would be enough?
Hey Chris,
The ducting for brakes & engine air is one of the last things to get done in the build. So not photos yet.
The blueprint below shows where the engine air ducting will run (blue) & where the brake ducting will run (red).
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Great question. Here is a list of sheet metal we use & where:
Steel:
Driver & Passenger Side Floor = 18 Gauge Steel / .048"
Transmission Tunnel = 22 Gauge Steel / .030"
Front Firewall / All Parts = 22 Gauge Steel / .030"
Rear Firewall/Bulkhead/Rear Deck = 22 Gauge Steel / .030"
Rear Wheel Tubs = 22 Gauge Steel / .030"
Rocker Box Plates (for Steel Body Mounting) = 16 Gauge Steel / .063"
Rocker Box Plates (for Fiberglass Body Mounting) = 18 Gauge Steel / .048"
Aluminum:
Belly Pan / Diffuser Bottom = 20 Gauge 5052 Aluminum / .032"
Rear Floor = 20 Gauge 5052 Aluminum / .032"
Door Panels = 20 Gauge 5052 Aluminum / .032"
Front Inner Fenders/Engine Compartment = 18 Gauge 5052 Aluminum / .040"
* Aluminum sheets that are covered in PVC to protect them.
Car Year & Model: 70 Ford Mustang Fastback
Competing in: Track Car & Occasional NASA TTU races
Front Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior
Rear Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior
Engine: Track-Warrior 3 LS7 700 HP
Trans: PPG Sequential Shift T56 6-Speed
Brakes: StopTech 14” ST60/ST40
Owner: Greg Weld
Builder: Randy Chastain – One Off Customs
More updates & photos ...
Most of the stuff is straight out of our "Build-Your-Own Track-Car Catalog" HERE
The RSRT Track-Warrior 3 LS7 built by SDPC Race Shop - Details HERE
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PPG Sequential T56 6-speed Trans, built by Joe Dederichs - Details HERE
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QuarterMaster Optimum RR Clutch with 2 "Rally" Discs for easier take off - Details HERE
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A shot today before Body was removed ... to get an idea of tire width & track width.
Wheels are 18x13 Forgeline GZ3R. 10" backspacing in front.
This is a "Zero Scrub" car. Turns like a mutha in the tight corners.
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Good look at the wheels, Track-Star hubs & StopTech Trophy brakes Optimized by Ron Sutton
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Front End mount photos
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Door Hinges
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With Body Removed to finish the door X-brace bars
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Car is Super low to ground, as you can see.
In fairness, this fella is 6' 1" / Actual roof height is 47"
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Howdy everyone!
Our client Ron Ver Mulm installed one of our GT Decoupled 3-Links in his autocross car recently & used his GoPro to capture the first runs. After watching the video, it was easy for me to know the rebound valving & spring rate are spot on, but his application needs stiffer compression valving & a taller, softer & more progressive bump stop. He ran his fastest runs ever with our new GT Decoupled 3-Link, over his conventional 3-link. After we change the compression valving & bump stop, he'll most likely shave another .3-.4 off his lap times.
For those not in the know ... the decoupled 3-link is the highest grip, fastest rear suspension available period. The shock version won so many Trans Am races back in the day, they outlawed it. (You can run our TA version legally in Trans Am, which uses poly bushings & no shock.)
We utilize this "shock controlled" GT Decoupled 3-Link all of our GT Track-Warrior Cars.
Got questions? Want one for your autocross or track car?
See both versions in our catalog HERE
Contact Dave at 844-722-3832 Ext 3
Or email, [email protected]
https://youtu.be/t3LCG7Q9nHo
The Ron Sutton Total Car Building Workshop in Columbus is ONLY 2 WEEKS away.
Tickets available HERE:
http://shop.ronsuttonracetechnology....pping/?ic=6106
This workshop covers the Entire Car Build ... not just suspension. I'm going to show you how to build winning cars that work awesome from bumper to bumper ... car body, brakes, engine, trans, diff, aero & much more will be covered. More details in attached brochure pages.
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For more information about the Workshops, contact Susan Kinnicutt
[email protected]
Car Year & Model: 1969 Corvette Coupe
Competing in: open track days, local auto-x, grocery runs
Front Clip/Suspension: RSRT AXT
Rear Clip/Suspension: Custom 5 Link IRS
Engine: 427 SBC
Trans: GTO T56
Brakes: RSRT Stoptech ST60/40 w/ Teves MK60 ABS
Owner: Chris Rauso
Builder: DMP Fabrication (chassis fab) AutoWorks (everything else)
Suspension and brakes assembled short the front coilovers and swaybars... Up next is prepping the motor and trans for install along with drysump and oil cooler
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The Ron Sutton Total Car Building Workshop in Columbus is ONLY 1 WEEK away.
Tickets available HERE:
http://shop.ronsuttonracetechnology....pping/?ic=6106
This workshop covers the Entire Car Build ... not just suspension. I'm going to show you how to build winning cars that work awesome from bumper to bumper ... car body, brakes, engine, trans, diff, aero & much more will be covered. More details in attached brochure pages.
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Some of you may not have realized on our shake down day the car wasn't ready to race or run many laps because the interior tin wasn't sealed & the exhaust wasn't thermal barrier coated.
The cockpit needs to be fully sealed from the engine bay & fuel cell area. We use a 3M Fire Retardant Sealer good up to 2000°. The exhaust runs so close to the transmission, the gear oil would overheat in it if the exhaust was uncoated. So we Jet-Hot coat the inside & outside of the header tubes & exhaust. (Mufflers only on the outside) This knocks down the radiant heat around the transmission & driver by 40-45°.
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The Mustang comes apart late this week to go to powder coat. In our Track-Warrior cars like Greg's ... the steel floor, firewall & bulkhead/rear deck sheet metal are welded to the chassis ... and get powder coated along with the chassis & cage assembly. When it goes back together for final assembly, Randy Chastain will utilize the 3M Fire Retardant Sealer on every seam under the car, at the firewall & at the rear bulkhead & decklid sheet metal. This prevents C0², smoke, oil, fire, etc from entering into the cockpit.
I'm outlining this important step, because many of you already have, or will, modify the sheet metal in your builds & NEED TO KNOW it's critical to seal it & what to use. It's NOT OK to leave any seam unsealed. It's unsafe.
The car will go back together later this month & get ready to go run the NASA event at Thunderhill Raceway in Willows California on Aug 4-5. Since the car wasn't built to fit a class, we will run it in the "Unlimited" class of NASA's Time Attack, known as TTU. Since it is an unlimited class, often there are Prototype race cars that run in TTU.
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We won't stand a chance against any Prototype race cars, with our Trans Am style 70 Mustang. But if there are no Prototype race cars, we'll have a good shot at running up front. Our driver Benny Moon is super talented, but hasn't been in a real race car is many years, so he'll need to shake off the rust as we work up to speed.
I don't know how fast we'll get this first weekend. I plan to do only basic tuning for balance. But it would be fun to have a pool of folks betting on Benny's best lap of the weekend.
We have a betting pool ... similar to a football pool.
* 100 times between 1:50.0 & 1:59.9 lap time, a tenth of a second apart
* Pick one time or as many as your wallet can handle
* Closest time wins all the pool money & bragging rights
* Only 1 time, Best time of the weekend, counts
Pick your time(s) HERE.
Hey Ron, in your aero thread, you stated that the front valence should be 90 degrees or very slightly angled back. Why is Greg's angled so far forward?
Darn it Ron! I came across this now im going to rework my chassis under the car.
so that leads me to some questions I am using 2x3 .120 MS for my main Rails in my raanchero, I am now thinking im going to have to get some thinner wall tubing? I wanted to do the floor structure like you did, just going to have to change a couple things.
Is the rack used in here something i could adapt for a rear steer? or should i try and stick with the factory set up and just add a Quickner?
Thanks as always
I wouldn't drop the frame rail material size & thickness down if I were you ... unless, and only if, ... you are making the cage structure as intense as we do in our Track-Warrior cars. You can see the full Track-Warrior cage desaign HERE. Our chassis rigidity comes from all the triangulation & tie in of the cage to the frame rails.
You can't use the Sweet rack we do, because they don't offer one that turns the correct direction for rear steer. But Woodward does. Check them out.
The plan was to make the same style floor/chassis as you are building I was not going to use 2x3 .120 for the transmission support area. I was going to use 1x2 .120 for the triangles and the connection from the front original frame to the rear along the transmission. (does this even make sense?) I will not have a cage, was planning on making the car stiff using the chassis work as much as I could. I am getting worried about the weight factor.
Howdy ....
Hmmmm ..... How are you going to make the chassis stiff ... with no roll cage ... and 2"x2" frame rails?
Without a well designed, multi-point, multi-triangulated roll cage ... a 2"x2" tubing frame in a car would be like a spaghetti noodle.
Do you have something else planned, that I'm not taking into consideration?