1 Attachment(s)
Mil spec connectors prices vary dramatically
I decided to spend some extra dough and go the mil spec circular connector route. While more expensive, the price differential is not too extreme. Prices vary a LOT from one seller to another, so SHOP AROUND! Here is what I just ordered from http://connecticc.com. They have excellent prices, but their website is a bit slow. I think their inventory server with quantities on hand was just offline, as everything was showing out of stock, whereas a couple of days ago everything was in stock with fairly large quantities on hand. Another good seller with competitive prices is http://prowireusa.com.
Attachment 93649
# of connection count by size summary
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Firewall (connectors 24-61, 24-31, 24-19):
a) 61 size #20, 31 size #16, 19 size #12
4L80E Transmission tunnel (connectors 22-41):
b) 27 size #20, 14 size #16
Trunk (connectors 16-14):
c) 8 size #20, 6 size #12
Connector size to wire gauge to max amps cross reference:
1) Size 12 = AWG 14-12 = max 23.0 amps
2) Size 16 = AWG 20-16 = max 13.0 amps
3) Size 20 = AWG 24-20 = max 7.5 amps
Total # Connectors summary:
a) 96 #20
b) 45 #16
c) 25 #12
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166 total connections
Overkill? Perhaps, but I only want to add these connectors once.
Able to handle future added electronics? Very likely.
I bought a used DMC AF8 M22520/1-01 crimper with a TH1A M22520/1-02 turret attached for $129.99 off ebay.
I went with flange receptacles to avoid having to cut D shaped holes recommended for the jam nut receptables (i.e. rotation prevention). Narrow flanges instead of wide flanges to conserve space.
I'm considering using 90 degree strain relief adapters. They run about $10 to $15 per connector side on http://mouser.com. Again, the prices on the strain relief adapters varies dramatically, so shop around.
My electrical system is ISIS Power based, which results in a LOT less power wires being routed through panels, so the appropriate connector sizing and counts will likely vary a lot for a car that is traditional wiring. A traditionally wired car will likely need more larger gauge connections.
4 Attachment(s)
Pictures of most of the connectors installed
67 Camaro install pics (no pins or wires installed yet in these connectors). Install is pretty easy, just make sure you don't drill the 4 bolt holes on an angle (keep them straight and level):
Firewall connectors viewed from engine compartment: Car is currently manual brakes w/o booster. If I ever switch to power brakes, I'll probably use a hydroboost based system which I think will clear these circular connector mounting locations. The wires exiting from connector in the lower right of the picture are getting close to the wheel well, but I'm pretty sure there's enough room left for a strain relief backshell.
Attachment 96307
Firewall connectors viewed from passenger compartment: View is looking through hole in dash for driver's main gauges. In case I ever switch the car back to manual shift, I'm nearly sure I've got these mounted out of the way of a clutch pedal and linkage. This location should nicely support adding straight strain relief backshells for the 2 smaller gauge wire harnesses, with those harnesses routed over the steering column behind the gauges, over to the center console area, where I'm centralizing most wire connections. The large gauge wire harness will probably get a 90 degree angle strain relief backshell, with the wire harness routed along the firewall. I'm inclined to keep the higher amp. wires away from the lower amp. wires as much as possible.
Attachment 96306
Trunk mounted connector is close to centered in the trunk slightly up the angled sheet metal. Should provide a nice short wire run to the fuel pump, but a longer run for most other electronics mounted in the rear/underneath portion of the car. An ISIS Power Cell is mounted about 18 inches from this connector behind the rear seat frame making most wire runs to this connector short.
Attachment 96305
The trans. tunnel mount is a work in progress. Car was originally manual trans., and is now automatic 4L80E. I'm leaning towards buying or building a raised box to mount over the old manual trans. shifter hole, and mounting the circular connector to the raised box. Purpose for using a raised box is to give more clearance for the outside wiring harness and connector to clear the transmission underneath the car. I'm building a console frame out of aluminum DIN rail, piano hinges, and angle brackets. A tablet computer will be mounted between the hinges shown on another piece of not yet mounted hinge. The hinge mounted tablet will be able to swing open to expose the electronics underneath. The ISIS Master Cell will be mounted vertically underneath the tablet with the cell display facing the driver. An ISIS Power Cell will be mounted vertically underneath the tablet with the cell display facing the passenger. I'm probably going to make those ISIS cell displays VISIBLE in the finished console, in case the cells are visually reporting an error.
Attachment 96304
Most of my wiring runs are up the center of the vehicle, which will keep the wire lengths nice and short. I will likely end up with a console running the full length of the trans. tunnel (front and rear seat areas) to cover all the wires, which means my rear seat customization requirements get more involved to pass a lot of wires into the trunk. Large amp wires will be on one side of the trans tunnel with small amp wires on the other side.
I don't know how well my wire routing will work when it comes to EMF, RFI, etc..