Harmonic balancer removal and installation...

Printable View

05-02-2021
roguegeek

Harmonic balancer removal and installation...

I got my Wegner WAK033 accessory drive kit this week and I started getting ready for the installation today. One of the first couple of steps is removing the stock harmonic balancer and installing the new one. In order to do this, I need to remove it with GM tool J-41816 and install the new one with GM tool J-41665. I don't have these tools and doing a quick search online shows the aren't super readily available and quite expensive. Are these two tools, the puller and installer, the specialty type that I can run down to my local auto parts store to rent or do I need to buy them? Are the generic versions of the tools just as good or am I looking for something specific to GM or the LS engine? I'm not looking to spend a ton of money on something I'm going to just use once and not touch again, so can Harbor Freight help me here?

Additionally, it's saying I need to replace the balancer bolt. Does anyone happen to have a part number for that? Engine is the LS427/570. I'm guessing it'd be the same bolt used on an LS7, but I'm not 100% certain on that.

Thanks.
05-02-2021
dhutton

You can find used GM tools and knockoffs on eBay.

Don
05-02-2021
roguegeek

Additional question. How do I remove the crankshaft bolt properly? I’m guessing I don’t just impact the thing off. How do I get it off without cranking over the engine? I’m guessing I’ll have the same problem with installation, so how about that as well?
05-02-2021
1985olds

This is the one I have and I really like it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AI...b_b_asin_title

Also, you can use an impact on the crank bolt
05-02-2021
NorCal-SS

I have that same green OEM puller. I’ve seen it advertised as a Chrysler tool but it works great on LS engines. As far as removing the bolt, I can’t recall who makes it, but I have a flywheel lock that bolts in place of the starter and prevents the engine from turning by engaging in a few of the flywheel teeth. It’s great for something like what you’re doing. I’ve seen folks use a pry bar or wood, but having the right tool for the job is nice.
05-02-2021
roguegeek

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1985olds

This is the one I have and I really like it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AI...b_b_asin_title

Also, you can use an impact on the crank bolt

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorCal-SS

I have that same green OEM puller. I’ve seen it advertised as a Chrysler tool but it works great on LS engines. As far as removing the bolt, I can’t recall who makes it, but I have a flywheel lock that bolts in place of the starter and prevents the engine from turning by engaging in a few of the flywheel teeth. It’s great for something like what you’re doing. I’ve seen folks use a pry bar or wood, but having the right tool for the job is nice.

Ok. I'll check out that puller.

With the crank bolt, I wouldn't eve know how you'd use wood or a pry bar for that. I do have a flywheel wrench, but that would only work if I had the bell housing off again, which I'd rather not do just for this. I will look into the flywheel lock that fits where the starter does. That sounds real helpful. If anyone can point me to one that will work, that would be much appreciated.
05-02-2021
NorCal-SS

I’m not sure how to post a link but if you search “LS flywheel tool” on eBay you’ll have a lot to choose from.
05-02-2021
roguegeek

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorCal-SS

I’m not sure how to post a link but if you search “LS flywheel tool” on eBay you’ll have a lot to choose from.

That helped a lot. Picked up a cheap one from Amazon. Thank you.
05-03-2021
protour_chevelle

Quote:

Originally Posted by roguegeek

Additional question. How do I remove the crankshaft bolt properly? I’m guessing I don’t just impact the thing off. How do I get it off without cranking over the engine? I’m guessing I’ll have the same problem with installation, so how about that as well?

Hit it with an impact in reverse.

If you have a flywheel on the engine, either have someone go under the car with a pry bar and lock the tooth against the bell housing or buy a LS flex plate/fly wheel locking tool. They bolt to the start location.
05-03-2021
Samckitt

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1985olds

This is the one I have and I really like it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AI...b_b_asin_title

Also, you can use an impact on the crank bolt

I have this one too (or one similar design).

ARP replacement bolt: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...MaAs3-EALw_wcB

GM bolt: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/N...7840?rrec=true
05-03-2021
csouth

As stated the Chrysler tool is great for the harmonic balancer. You can rent it from AutoZone as I have done a few times.
05-03-2021
Hotwire

I'm using a MAF flywheel holder off ebay. Bought my buddy one too they work so well, worth their weight in gold. They also sell crank pulley installers. I used threaded rod and nuts I purchased from my local Automotive Fasteners.

https://www.ebay.com/str/mafracingperformancetools

I also have the amazon crank pulley puller, it's compact and works great! Had a hybrid tahoe that had the electronic's cooling pump mounted right in front of the crank, that puller acted like it was made for that application. Definitely worth it to keep one on hand.
05-03-2021
roguegeek

Quote:

Originally Posted by protour_chevelle

Hit it with an impact in reverse.

If you have a flywheel on the engine, either have someone go under the car with a pry bar and lock the tooth against the bell housing or buy a LS flex plate/fly wheel locking tool. They bolt to the start location.

Ok, sweet. The engine/trans is out of the car, but I hear what you're saying.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Samckitt

I have this one too (or one similar design).

ARP replacement bolt: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...MaAs3-EALw_wcB

GM bolt: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/N...7840?rrec=true

Real helpful. Thank you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by csouth

As stated the Chrysler tool is great for the harmonic balancer. You can rent it from AutoZone as I have done a few times.

I'll go check that out first this morning. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotwire

I'm using a MAF flywheel holder off ebay. Bought my buddy one too they work so well, worth their weight in gold. They also sell crank pulley installers. I used threaded rod and nuts I purchased from my local Automotive Fasteners.

https://www.ebay.com/str/mafracingperformancetools

I also have the amazon crank pulley puller, it's compact and works great! Had a hybrid tahoe that had the electronic's cooling pump mounted right in front of the crank, that puller acted like it was made for that application. Definitely worth it to keep one on hand.

Alright, I will look one up to grab. Thanks.
05-05-2021
roguegeek

I have the flywheel lock installed at the starter point. I can't seem to get the harmonic balancer bolt off at all. I'm hitting it with the impact. I'm not seeing it budge. Before I start putting more force onto it, I just want to make sure I'm not doing anything stupid. I should be able to lock down the flywheel and just back that bolt out like any other bolt, right? I'm looking at the torque specs on it and it sure doesn't seem like anything that should be giving me this kinda trouble to take out, but it is. It's not reverse threaded or anything like that, right? Any thoughts here?
05-05-2021
Hotwire

Lol, no, it's on there. The crank hub is not keyed so GM threw down on getting it tight. The crank bolt has antiseize/sealant on the back of it's washer, the washer is large in diameter = huge clamping force.

To seat the hub when you first put it on you have to torque an old bold to 240ftlbs, that's double a lug nut, so get out the breaker bar and have at it. Normal thread, righty tighty lefty loosey.
05-05-2021
roguegeek

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotwire

Lol, no, it's on there. The crank hub is not keyed so GM threw down on getting it tight. The crank bolt has antiseize/sealant on the back of it's washer, the washer is large in diameter = huge clamping force.

To seat the hub when you first put it on you have to torque an old bold to 240ftlbs, that's double a lug nut, so get out the breaker bar and have at it. Normal thread, righty tighty lefty loosey.

Alright. I just laid on it with the impact for several minutes and it eventually came off. Thanks.
05-05-2021
icemanrd19

Next time just add about 10 sec of heat on it and then the impact. It will come off with ease.
05-05-2021
roguegeek

Quote:

Originally Posted by icemanrd19

Next time just add about 10 sec of heat on it and then the impact. It will come off with ease.

I’ll keep that in mind. Thanks.