https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240009.jpg
Started wrapping the wires as the battery charged.
After a couple of days (trickle charge), the engine spun over, would start and then die pretty much immediately.
Did I miss a pin? There's no codes reported (beyond "MIL indicator not found", which I knew). The sensors all seem to be working per EFILive.
Maybe the battery still needs more charge.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240010.jpg
Move on to the next task: the damaged parking light mounts. This is the better of the two.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240011.jpg
And this is the worse.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240012.jpg
Reconstructed the missing corner. Still need to weld on a #8 nut to finish this out, then re-sandblast and paint.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240020.jpg
Same on the worse one - filled the holes, reconstructed, new mounts. Need to weld on the nuts, resandblast, and paint here too. Also may need to replace the bulb socket.
One of these housings has a broken bolt in one of the lens mounts; still need to handle that too.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240019.jpg
I am not quite sure how this has occurred, but the epoxy primer and implement enamel have flaked off here at the headlamp adjustor. The adjustor is also trying to pull through.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240013.jpg
There is a difference between the "headlamp adjusting nuts" (skinny) and "license plate nuts" (thick). Replaced the skinny with the thick.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240014.jpg
Apparently I have a leak at the oil pressure gauge. Tightened.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240015.jpg
Minor concern that the PCV hose has a crimp. Maybe it's too long, or too short, or maybe it doesn't matter.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240016.jpg
After going through all sorts of possible causes (VATS? Low voltage?) the answer became clear. If only I'd looked at this gauge (that's still in a box on the cowl); it was correct.
Added fuel and the car started right up. No new codes so I guess I hooked everything up correctly.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240017.jpg
Paint for the AC box. Guess next up is to mount the box and the ECU so I can put the fender on.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2012240018.jpg
The mount for the ECU is "done".
I think it needs another bracket to connect the top of the mount to the core support though.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090001.jpg
pictured with the computer attached and hooked up.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090002.jpg
Tried again with the AC box. It split at the front mount again. Apparently "flat" is not sufficient for the back, it needs to be a little concave to force the front together.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090003.jpg
Corrected the brackets for the parking lights. Oddly enough, the spacing on the screw-holes differs between the sides.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090004.jpg
Used duct tape and cardboard to figure out just where the dash needed to be to clear the column brackets, etc. Here is the first time the gauges have been "installed" in the car.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090005.jpg
I made the upper panel out of 22ga steel that was sitting around. Got it to line up well, but that metal is so thin!
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090006.jpg
Picked up some 16ga instead. This is proper. Used the thin panel as a template.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090007.jpg
Then added the mounts to the upper panel.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090008.jpg
Test-fit again, with the upper panel in place and duct-taped to the face, on the bottom I added 3/4" more metal to push it back a little.
Zip ties to hold the dash carrier in place, whee!
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090009.jpg
In the initial test-fit of the AC box with the bundled wires, it became clear that I am not going to be able to run the wires between the inner fender and the bottom of the AC box - there just isn't room. So - let's make a channel for them.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090010.jpg
It looks roughly like this. It still needs work.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090011.jpg
The dash panel is coming together here. You can see the side panels, the lower edge, the lower mounts, and the close-out for the wiper switch there on the left. Everything is welded, and I didn't completely screw it up!
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090012.jpg
I think it looks great, except where the beaver chewed out the column notch.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090013.jpg
And of course my carrier has seen better days. It's only 50 years old, I don't know why the plastic has damage to it.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090014.jpg
Used some exhaust tubing for the column surround.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090015.jpg
Welded in.
Next step is to sandblast the whole thing, prime, and paint... but it's been in the 40s and 50s for highs, not quite warm enough for things to cure.
The plastic dash carrier needs some attention with some JBWeld to try and correct some of the damage. You can maybe see the initial repairs to the upper edge in the earlier pictures.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090016.jpg
The wrapped wire bundle passes through the channel. I want to bore out the PVC that I fiberglassed in there - it doesn't need to be as thick as it is and I'd like more clearance.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090017.jpg
Hard to tell what's going on here, but the interior fuse panel is mounted up under the dash (one less thing dangling near the pedals!)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090018.jpg
The mount for the Clutch Anticipate switch is next up. This is ~10ga steel for the bracket - should hold up well enough.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090019.jpg
And it gets welded in.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090020.jpg
So does an equivalent bracket for the two brake switches. Yes, I still haven't learned to weld.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/2101090021.jpg
I need to figure out how much clutch pedal travel I'm supposed to have/how much I need so I can mount the clutch stop and the clutch safety switch.
2021-05-15 edit: This ends the archived posts; additions will be slower.
The most high-tech of paintbooths:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140015.jpg
A full coat on the dash carrier too:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140020.jpg
Various trim as well:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140021.jpg
I need to clean up the center dash vent - it's *rough*. By "rough" I mean:- The carrier is broken near the lever
- The louvers are broken and glued together
- There's JBWeld or similar filling the gaps
- Not sure if you can tell - but there's a TOOTHPICK holding the edge together on the bottom left here.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140001.jpg
They Say the vents for the 69 Chevelle with AC are not being reproduced.
They Say you wouldn't be able to get this housing apart to replace them even if they were.
They're right, of course. But... if you're careful, you can use a dremel to cut away the seam where the front and back parts of the housing were connected at the factory.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140013.jpg
The Chevelle vents aren't being reproduced - that's correct - but the 69 Camaro and 69-76 Corvette ones have the Exact Same Dimensions. (OER 748614)
And really... these are horrible.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140006.jpg
So a quick pass to try and fix the broken carrier (cardboard as a pattern, fiberglass resin over that):
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140007.jpg
A quick test fit:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140014.jpg
Paint, and it becomes hard to believe we started from the same place.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140019.jpg
Also need to finish the cleanup on the AC controls.
Start with some black "low acid fade resistant" posterboard:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140010.jpg
A bit of cutting, and you've got a heck of a before-and-after:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140011.jpg
I finished up the pedal switches. The clutch safety switch ended up in a really convenient-to-attach place:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140002.jpg
The other switches seem to be in decent places and are out of the way. Now to start the car, you have to press the clutch like on a real car!
The dashboard is coming together. The gauges fit nicely in the housing and I've got all the indicators I need (and maybe one I don't -- the one bottom right of the speedometer is the cruise control, and I'm not seeing where I'm going to get the "yes, you're in cruise" signal)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140018.jpg
With the gauges in the housing (along with the radio):
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140025.jpg
I thought I was getting close on the AC box. It's not perfect, but used the last of the gloss black to look for imperfections (found some!)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140028.jpg
More sanding, cleanup, etc., and then a coat of the "charcoal" paint I'd bought for this.
Yeah, this is not the color I anticipated. Will look for a better match to the factory color.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140035.jpg
I went ahead and cleaned up the driver's fender for paint on the inside:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140029.jpg
Predictably enough, I found crappy repair and rust.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140031.jpg
I fixed the rust with a second crappy repair:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140032.jpg
Painted and mounted the fender (even used shims!) - this should be pretty close to its final location. I'm not sure why the door edge looks like it's got a bend in it like that.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140033.jpg
It's very pretty, in areas that won't typically be seen:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140034.jpg
Got the parking lights taken care of. Unfortunately the gaskets I made are much thinner than the original gaskets, so the original screws won't torque down. Minor concern that it'll put the lens too close to the bulb and melt things.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140027.jpg
I also handled the electrical to connect the parking lights:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140008.jpg
Unfortunately I used the wrong ends for that connector so it all had to come back apart. It's a little sad, those were outstanding crimps:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140009.jpg
I have a concern about mounting the flashing security LED and the light sensor. It looks like there's room behind of the speaker ahead of the pad, but that'll conflict with the AC vent.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/14/202105140026.jpg
Reckon the next up is to try and get a better tune on this thing - it's running extremely rich; I don't know what sort of tune they had on it when I got it but from a quick review, their VE table is very different from the stocker I found on the internet. Means I'll have to remember how to do this (read: learn how to do it).
Nice build thread!
Keep up the good work!
We used some of the same parts.
it cool to see a different approach with them .
Did not intend for additions to be THIS much slower.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090002.jpg
The AC box held together this time!
The wires pass underneath it freely in that channel too - bolt it up and call it good!
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090004.jpg
Begin FOUR DAYS of looking for where I put the metal squirrel cage fan.
It was here in the garage, I've put it somewhere "clever".
Found the spare AC box, it's got a plastic fan but it's damaged.
(No, the metal one was in a box in the attic. That's not clever at all.)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090008.jpg
Sandblast and paint. Let's make it pretty before we put it where nobody will see it.
(Not pictured: The fan bottoms out in the housing. Where did I put the spacer? At least I found that where I expected)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090009.jpg
With the AC box mounted and the fan attached, I can clean up the pass fender and get it painted on the inside too. So I did.
And I took no photos.
It was the same as the driver's: rust, bad repairs, now additional bad repairs.
It lines up... poorly.
This is with a big stack of shims at the top AND at the bottom, and it's still not right.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090011.jpg
Even after additional finagling. Also it's too far forward at the bottom.
I expect I'll be taking this back off for additional work.
(also I can't run a bracket to the core support to help hold the computer in place as it tucks up inside this rather than being accessible.)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090014.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090015.jpg
I put the header panel on. It fit, mostly, but the car is slightly too large for the garage -- I have to squeeze past the nose to unlock the door, and this sticks out too far... so I've pulled it back off. It needed cleaned up on the inside anyway.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090010.jpg
As I lay on my back trying to get the fender to line up better, I happened to have looked back towards the back of the car and was struck by how much room for more tire there was!
And it's true - there's about 3 inches from the outer edge of the pass rear tire to the outside of the fenderwell.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090007.jpg
Unfortunately that doesn't hold true for the driver's side: the body is not square to the frame. So I loosened all the body mount bolts, and tried to pry the body over. That accomplished nothing.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090005.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090017.jpg
I've got a ratchet strap, what on the body can I attach to to pull against?
Maybe this beefy tie-down ring in the bed? Wrap it around, so it's pulling the frame that way.
Yeah, raise your hand if you see what's coming.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090018.jpg
And now I need to repair the tie-down ring, and the body hasn't moved at all.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090019.jpg
I had realized that I don't have an *accessible* bung for the wideband O2 sensor - the front one on the driver's header is too close to the frame to thread anything into.
Added a new bung here, and as you can tell, I wasn't replaced with an alien replicant with some skill at welding (so I guess that's good news?)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107090016.jpg
Left off yesterday with the tires not lining up in the wheelwell - everything offset towards the driver's side.
Tried ratchet-strap from various places underneath to other places underneath and gained maybe a quarter inch.
Got frustrated.
Bought a tool.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107100001.jpg
This thing MOVED the body. It made it clear, however, that I was barking up the wrong tree - when the body mounts don't line up with the frame, you know it's in the wrong place.
Yeah, I'm an idiot.
The adjustable UCAs can move the tires over. With that knowledge, I used the inner edge of the tire to the frame as a guide.
This tool also moved the body back though.
And now I'm at about 2 3/8 on each side.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107100003.jpg
Time to start putting the inner AC box together. This thing was painted red at some point, and then poorly black over that. Let's clean it up and redo it.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107100004.jpg
I need one of these connectors.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107100005.jpg
Did get the underhood wires for the AC set up and wrapped. I think the relay goes here. At least... now it will.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107100006.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107100007.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107100008.jpg
Assembled the hood hinges. This is probably another case of premature assembly but the springs were in the way.
Moved on to putting together the plug for the dashboard. It's going well enough, except for a few minor issues:
- White wire is tach. I don't have that wire, it's somewhere in a taped up bundle
- Black with white stripe is ground. Don't have that neither (although that's easy enough to correct)
- Also entirely possible that I'll have to do the workaround with the resistor and the +12 for a pull-up. Don't know yet.
Probably shouldn’t use the tire to check if the body is square on the frame. Camber due to front end alignment will move the top of the tire in and out a fair bit.
Don
Things Were Done Wrong
That'd be a good alternate title: "Things that I have done that are probably done incorrectly".
Realized last time that I don't have a wire for the tach, also that I don't have the "you're in cruise" wire.
Well, the wiring diagrams helped; they let me know that the tach wire goes from the PCM as circuit 121, Red #10 not to the dash -- that comes over the serial
data - but to the traction control (which I don't have), and that the "cruise active" wire is PCM circuit 85, going to pin Red #13. Both wires are white and are pins F and G in connector C105.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107160001.jpg
Well, we have to start by removing this fender. I'll have to do some cleanup to try to get it to fit better anyway.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107160002.jpg
Here we have C105. I only have one of these wires - the tach wire to the traction control.
So I can just remove it from C105, go from the PCM directly to a wire heading into the cab.
I tried a weatherpak connector and made what looked like outstanding crimps. They weren't outstanding; no continuity between the weatherpak pin and the PCM pin 10. Also no continuity between it and PCM pin 13... and when I went to pull it back apart, the weatherpak pin just pulled right off.
And then I realized that what I had was not the tach wire, it was the cruise enable, and I'd cut the C105 pin off.
So - where is the tach wire from the PCM going, and what am I going to do about the cruise-is-on light wire?
As it sits here, I have pin 10 of the PCM (Tach out) connected to apparently nothing, and pin 13 (Cruise Indicator in) (not really) connected to a wire headed towards the cab. Quick fix: de-pin the PCM for both, so pin 10 is to the tach wire.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107160006.jpg
Back in the day, I put a grommet in the firewall and ran the wires for C220 and C230 through it. I've since realized that low on the firewall on the pass side invites a flood every time I drive in the rain, that location is unsuitable. I'll need to run them through the cowl sides. They're *probably* long enough. I'll also run the two new wires for the tach and the cruise indicator.
You can vaguely see the grommet and the wires.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107160004.jpg
The better seal on the inside still wouldn't be sufficient.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107160003.jpg
Of course, as part of this, I had to unwrap the wires. Again. Really would have preferred to not do this.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2107160005.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280001.jpg
First off - the wires for C220 and C230 were running through the lower firewall at the pass floorboard. Realization that this is going to go really poorly every time I hit a puddle means the wires need to move.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280003.jpg
Here's a good spot - it'll be protected from splashes and can run the wires through the side of the cowl.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280007.jpg
My first thought had the wires coming in and immediately making a hard left and coming through the inner edge of the cowl. Realized that that was maybe even worse of a place than the floorboard - the cowl is guaranteed to get a lot of water flowing across it in any rain.
Better to use the back edge of the cowl side for access.
This picture shows neither.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280006.jpg
With the wires run through, here's the grommet. Added Strip-Calk to seal.
The small set of wrapped wires is a white and a blue wire, for the tach and the cruise indicator.
Unfortunately I am not sure which color I used for which - I *think* white is tach.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280004.jpg
Added weatherstrip to the top of the defrost vent.
They Say that you shouldn't seal these. I did it anyway.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280009.jpg
I bought a condensor - a Vintage Air 037030-OVR. It was 29.5" x 16", which matched what I measured the opening as.
Spoiler alert: Nowhere close to fitting.
Returned that, bought a different one - Vintage Air 037033 (24" x 12"). Still need to get the brackets set up.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280010.jpg
Retried mounting the pass fender. It worked better this time.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280011.jpg
Need to either adjust the front of the door "out" or add shims to the bottom mount. It's close though.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280012.jpg
Quick paint on more things.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280013.jpg
Defrost vent mounted. Wires are still strewn, need to clean that up.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280016.jpg
I have created mounts for the ambient light sensor and the security LED. I REALLY hope these are in a good place.
And then onto the hard part.
New purchase.
I *think* this is the last remaining task that I categorize as "really hard". I'm actually terrified of this task.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280008.jpg
Cleaning the area at the edge of where it'll go with a wire wheel revealed oddly shiny metal.
Oh.
That's lead.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280014.jpg
A torch works well to remove it.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280015.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280017.jpg
and fully cleaned up.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280019.jpg
And again on the other side.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280020.jpg
Did find that there was some half-assed rust repair on the windshield. I don't THINK I did this in the last round.
Doesn't matter anyway, this is all getting replaced with the new panel..
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280021.jpg
I had these.If you look closely, you'll see that both of them have broken teeth - one of them happened on the first spot weld.
I spent about twenty minutes trying to figure out where I'd put the first one after the second one also failed, and while I was searching I tried to come up with advertising copy for these.
The best I came up with was either "The quality goes in before the name... what's that? Oh. No, it doesn't." or "It makes good cutters or it gets the hose again".
Either way, an order of cheap spot weld cutters from the Kingdom of Bezos arrived the next day.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2110280022.jpg
I have cut the weld beads incorrectly.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060001.jpg
With the improved spot cutting bits, removal proceeded.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060002.jpg
and then the roof fell off.
Saved for posterity? I don't know what I'm going to do with this.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060003.jpg
The braces are well seasoned.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060006.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060007.jpg
Also still have the remnants of the insulation.
Cleaned up. It looks like the headliner brace (right middle) had been cut to clear the sunroof. Reckon I'm going to need that.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060008.jpg
Test-fit the roof. This is how it clears the rear. It doesn't look like the back edge of the roof lines up well with the existing flange.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060009.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060011.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060016.jpg
With more vice-grips it lines up much better - the flange comes up to meet the roof.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060012.jpg
And the front edge works too.
Do need some repair on this side.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060013.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060014.jpg
It fits pretty well.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060017.jpg
Punched the holes for the spot welds, and drilled for the windshield trim studs.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060019.jpg
I ordered new braces to replace the missing headliner brace. This one came with, didn't realize that I needed to replace this one. Maybe I don't.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060027.jpg
The rear brace is just fine, even though I got a new one. Also note that I coated the "hidden" part of all these braces with POR-15 (yes from that same can still).
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060024.jpg
And this came instead of a headliner brace. I don't know what this does, I don't know where it goes. It doesn't look long enough to really go here.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060023.jpg
As a reminder, this is the remnant of what I need to replace. The unknown brace does not appear to be the same thing.
I'll have to call OPGI on Monday.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060028.jpg
I do not quite like the way the driver's rear of the roof lines up with the B-pillar.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060029.jpg
Passenger side is acceptable.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060020.jpg
Also the new rods - while their shape does match the existing rod I have - are about .002 larger in diameter than the current one.. which means I'll need to expand the holes.
(ignore the actual number on the gauge; it's not .271)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111060018.jpg
Also I mounted the AC condensor. This is not the final-final location, it needs to be moved away from the radiator a little.
I bought the paint for the dash top/dash face, the high-end seam sealer for the bed close-out panel, and the adhesive for the rear window from the local Sherwin-Williams Automotive. Since the high-build primer there was stupid expensive, I ordered some U-POL from Amazon.
Also we have The Plan for the interior. I need stock headliner, visors, sail panels, door panels, and carpet in dark grey. Unfortunately, that wasn't a factory color that year.
Carpet was always going to be custom - the larger tranny hump would prevent proper stock carpet. None of this is useful until I get the headliner brace handled.
OPGI was not particularly helpful. They could just tell me that the kit contained front, rear, and middle braces.
I think the unknown "middle" brace is for a Chevelle (see this Chevelles.com thread with a pic).
Regardless - the set got returned. It does not appear that the middle brace I need is being reproduced, nor the equivalent for the longer-roofed vehicles.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111110001.jpg
So the logical next step is to make my own. It ain't got to be pretty. Cut a sheet of 22ga (I'd have preferred 16 or 18ga but didn't have it big enough). That strip is 3" wide by 27" long.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111110002.jpg
Cleaned up the edge a little with a file.
Used the flanging tool to put a nice bend on the edges to add some strength.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111110003.jpg
Test-fit.
Cleco at the back, front wraps around a flange.
This needed to have more of a bow to it.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111110004.jpg
Used the bow I had in each of the holes to identify the range that was valid for each of these clips.
Paint, too.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111110005.jpg
Test-fit. Acceptable.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111110006.jpg
And then the welding starts.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111110007.jpg
Weld, weld, weld. Skip around so nothing overheats.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111110008.jpg
Grind the welds.
Also I cut a small bit of metal to match the back edge of the roof to the B-pillar and welded it in. This looks a lot better.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111110009.jpg
Started grinding the welds in the rear window area. Ran out of daylight, more to come.
With the roof mounted, the first step would be to put some all-metal on the A and B pillar joins:
Blorp. Needed to go down the A-pillar some to line up with where the lead used to be.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220006.jpg
B-pillar more straightforward. (and, of course, once it's there, you need to sand it smooth)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220008.jpg
The goal with doing the filler was to get into a position where the seam-sealer could be applied in the drip rails.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220012.jpg
Masking is important. I didn't mask all that well. While I have the seam sealer out, let's get this panel mounted *and sealed*.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220009.jpg
I used the wrong screws, because I ran out of the pan-head philips screws. These will suffice for now.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220003.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220010.jpg
Also while the seam-sealer was available, I put a little dab on the threads of the trim studs for the windshield and rear window.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220011.jpg
All of this was with a goal of getting ready to put the rear window in - which really would require that I have the headliner in place first - to force the ordering the headliner. Not quite ready at this point to put said headliner in though:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220001.jpg
I'm not going to want to be grinding so close to the glass, and this needs fixed.
So, it got fixed.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220005.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220007.jpg
All-metal was handy, too. These got filled with some epoxy putty, and then the whole shelf was covered with more all-metal. Going to try and marry the back edge of the shelf with the window frame. You'll see the covered shelf in other pictures.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220002.jpg
And then, She Who Must Be Obeyed had an epiphany about the headliner. She may even be right. She announced that there is no point in worrying about glass or interior until the body is painted. So - let's get started on bodywork!
I figure I'll strip the entire body, then do a cycle of welding in new metal everywhere that needs it, then filler, epoxy primer, high-build primer, epoxy again, then paint. It's maybe not the right time to do this - since we're moving into the "too cold to paint" days (this was from Nov 2021) - but I anticipate a lot of welding.
Sanding further down from where the B-pillar joins. I don't know what the round thing is - maybe a bullethole?
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220013.jpg
Detail.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220014.jpg
Appears that the quarters were re-skinned at some point. I don't much like this seam - looks like they only welded part of it and it's definitely not flush.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220015.jpg
Also there is random rust-hole.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220016.jpg
Carrying the paint-stripping on back, the rear of the lower flange just in front of the wheelwell appears to be made out of bondo. Not all that surprising.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220017.jpg
Detail of the lower flange.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220019.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220018.jpg
Small rust-holes, also not surprising
Rear quarter, naked.
I am pleased to note that there were no real surprises here. It's a pretty straight, relatively low-rust panel.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220020.jpg
Back edge of the door, however, is another story. Front edge is even worse. A smarter man would probably just re-skin the door.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220021.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220022.jpg
There is a door-ding just ahead of the front of the handle - you've got to really put some effort in to make that big of a ding. Also there's the side-mirror mount that's not really smooth. All must be worked.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220023.jpg
There is a single hole in the top of the fender over the cowl. I don't know why. I blame tinworms.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220024.jpg
Some more rust damage on the back edge of the fender.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220025.jpg
And it extends further up too.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220028.jpg
Driver's side, naked.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220027.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220026.jpg
The hood. Sigh. Again with this - smarter man, etc.
In fact, you should probably be reading the smarter man's build instead of mine.
So should I.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220029.jpg
Holes.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220030.jpg
Rust holes add lightness. Or something.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220031.jpg
Went ahead and put the hood "on" for stripping - need to have access and needs to not be outside.
You might notice that the header panel is not installed. That's intentional - I have a choice: I can have access to the attic, or I can roll the car back enough to put this panel on, but I can't do both.
I don't have a good workaround in mind for that.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220032.jpg
And as we strip, we find more rust holes.
I can fix this. Or I'll decide to replace it.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220033.jpg
Hood stripped. So-much-dust, it looks like I had the dashboard flocked.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220034.jpg
Bonus rust hole - I knew about the lower ones, the upper one was hidden by the paint. Also a tiny hole that will require attention.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220035.jpg
I figure the top of the hood will get handled, then I'll flip it over and do the bottom - and prime/paint the bottom before reinstalling.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220036.jpg
Also I did this:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111220004.jpg
And then the same for the passenger side.
I'd welded up a hole on the top of the fender when I was cleaning up the inside. Never got around to grinding the bead down. Also appears that I missed some rust on the upper edge.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250001.jpg
And also missed some on the lower edge.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250004.jpg
The passenger door was in remarkably good shape.
Except up here where it looks like someone tried to chew on it.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250005.jpg
The rocker panel, on the other hand, is well rotten.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250006.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250007.jpg
In case you forgot about this dent (see https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...37#post1358437), it's still a dent.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250008.jpg
Without paint, it remains dent-shaped.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250009.jpg
In progress.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250010.jpg
I have a memory of replacing the driver's side fender in front of the wheel, and after welding in the patch realizing that I'd failed to add the bend to the panel. Apparently I mis-remembered, and it was the pass side. The bondo here approached half-inch thick.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250011.jpg
I chipped some free with a chisel.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250018.jpg
Lots of pick marks around this seam.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250013.jpg
Some rust holes around the patch (also need to cut the patch out and put one with the right bend in it)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250014.jpg
... also the rear flange on that panel is just wrong.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250012.jpg
These are not rust holes. They are, however, rust damage. Unsure how I'm going to deal with them.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250015.jpg
There is a light at the end of the tunnel. Unfortunately, that light is visible only through rust holes.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250017.jpg
There's also some rust at the trailing edge of the pass rear - this would be covered by the bumper.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250016.jpg
The tailgate closeout panel has definitely seen better days. Will be trying to straighten this some.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250019.jpg
The General definitely didn't skimp on mounting holes for trim. These need welded up.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250020.jpg
Lots of issues going on here.
Start with the tailgate handle - it's dented in and poorly welded, also all the dark spots are low spots that need straightened.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250021.jpg
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250021.jpg
There is rust right above the hinge, on both sides.
I can't really get the wire brush attachment in here.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2111250022.jpg
Near as I can tell, the "correct" plan is:
- Rust repair
- Pull dents
- Filler
- Epoxy prime
- High-build primer
- Sand
- Epoxy primer (as sealer)
- Base and clear
so that's what I'm going to do.
Time to work on the header panel. Wanted to get it mounted before stripping it.
This is made slightly more complex in that the garageg door opener has failed and the car is just long enough that I can't squeeze by to unlock the garage door with this panel mounted.
Not pictured: A day spent installing a new garage door opener so I don't have to squeeze past.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100001.jpg
Stripped the header panel. This is officially the panel in the best shape on the car.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100002.jpg
I found the wiper motor arm! Now I know for sure that the ball is 2 1/4" from the motor.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100003.jpg
Started cutting out rust on the hood.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100004.jpg
I guess I skipped the whole "taking pictures" thing for that first one as we jump now to first welded and ground, and second in progress.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100005.jpg
Far side (Nos. 3 and 4) welded
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100006.jpg
Center (no. 5) welded.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100007.jpg
Here's what I cut out. No further pics of the top of the hood at this time.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100008.jpg
Flipped the hood over, strip the paint from there (not particularly worried about the areas the insulation will cover); the trailing edge is much, much worse than I expected.
And it's even worse on this side.
Smarter man wouldn't have got this far on this hood, and certainly would have gone new hood shopping at this point. Let's fix this instead.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100010.jpg
The more paint/bondo I take off, the more rust I find.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100011.jpg
Some small rust holes further forward
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100012.jpg
(on both sides)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100013.jpg
I cut rust away.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100014.jpg
Patch 1 started (white spray paint to put something on the metal I won't be able to get to once this is done)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100015.jpg
Just a reminder: I'm still a horrible welder.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100016.jpg
Second half of patch 1, plus the cowl-seal holes have been drilled.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100018.jpg
First part of patch 2. Or 3, if you coulnt the little tab.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100019.jpg
Patch 1 (mostly) ground
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100020.jpg
Bring on the all-metal!
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100021.jpg
On both sides!
Did the same for those small holes further forward. It's not perfect, but it's the underside of the hood, it doesn't have to be.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100022.jpg
It's winter.
According to the weather forecast, today is the only day for the next few weeks that it'll be warm enough to put paint on the underside of this hood. It's not a particularly good day for it - wind 15-20 with gusts up to 30, 20% chance of rain... but it is the day we've got. Let's make the best of it.
Sawhorses in the driveway give the best chance for debris to blow onto the hood.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100023.jpg
Start with Summit branded epoxy primer, because that's what I have. It's black.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100024.jpg
Didn't really go on so well; bad surface prep is partially to blame. Move on to the black paint I got from Sherwin-Williams back in https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/136673-derekf-s-69-El-Camino-build?p=1396885#post1396885.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100025.jpg
More clouds gather.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100027.jpg
First coat of high-gloss clear (also from that same SW run)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100028.jpg
If it hadn't been the underside of the hood, I probably would have done a real thin coat of filler to handle pits in the metal. It's the underside, this is really what the metal looks like
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100029.jpg
The edges are really the important spots - in the previous incarnation, the black paint flaked off a lot on the edges, revealing previous colors. Since I took it all down to bare metal, there are no previous colors now.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100030.jpg
Move the hood into the garage before the rain actually starts!
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112100031.jpg
Next week when more hands are available, I'll get this hood mounted and adjusted. The top is still in bare metal, it'll get paint with the rest of the car.
In accordance with the "Perfect Paint Job" documentation on the SPI site (hyperlink may break, can search on the term), I want to get the all-metal on the weld joints and then put epoxy primer on everything. Plenty of rust to work on.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200001.jpg
Started on the front of the driver's door. Did put some paint on the semi-rotted framework here.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200002.jpg
Here's what I cut away.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200003.jpg
Patch mostly welded.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200004.jpg
Patch welded and ground. Looks pretty good.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200005.jpg
Next up, back of the door.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200006.jpg
The damage was mainly filler.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200007.jpg
Welded. The sharpie lines are to tell me where the bends should be - this has a slight arc to it.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200008.jpg
Ground.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200009.jpg
Closed up the holes at the side mirror mount
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200010.jpg
Fixed the small rust hole just behind the driprail and the bullet-hole thing.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200011.jpg
Patch just behind the door.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200012.jpg
(ground)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200013.jpg
Then the rear part of the lower quarter, just ahead of the wheel. Here's what came out. It, too, was primarily filler.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200014.jpg
Welded the patch in. Also had to patch the wheelwell arch.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200015.jpg
The weld on this part of the hood had warped a ltitle bit, and there was oil-canning on the panel near the near edge.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200016.jpg
Shrinking disk. I don't really know how to use this device.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200018.jpg
But I shrank things. Maybe it's better. I also added some dents, which probably made things worse, but it's not oil-canning anymore.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200017.jpg
Moved on to the rear panel and tailgate. Welded up the trim holes here. Ground them, too, but didn't photograph it.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200020.jpg
Along with the tailgate.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200021.jpg
More tailgate, and then the (not pictured) pass side trim holes.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200022.jpg
Moved along to the big dent on the pass side.
I've had that stud welder since early 2013, don't think I knew just how well it worked.
The stud welder also works well for patch panels, I can attach one of the little copper studs to the face of the patch and hold it in place while I start welding.
Also - the lower edge of this panel, as also noted previously, was welded in as a flat panel rather than bowed; I used the stud welder to add some curvature there (not pictured).
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200023.jpg
It looks smoother than it is... but it's definitely not a big dent anymore. No oilcanning, neither. Still needs some work, and maybe I'll get to try the shrinking disk again. Important part is, of course, that it not be proud of the normal surface, and I'm not quite sure at this point.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200024.jpg
The rust further down needed cut away and replaced, of course.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200026.jpg
Grinding not complete. The rust in the rocker panel is so bad that I've made a pilgrimage to the local Summit to get a patch panel for it. All they had in stock was the rocker for a Chevelle - but should work Just Fine.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/04/19/2112200028.jpg
New can of all-metal too. Forecast has it warm enough for primer pretty much for the rest of the year (!) so will try to get this all knocked out over the next few days.
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