Tucked wheel look help

Hey fellas, I know this question has been asked hundreds of times but hope my specificity will prevent me from getting casted out of this village lol. I've been doing days and days of searching and researching through uncountable forums and threads trying to find advice/recommendations for the right backspacing for the look I'm trying to achieve before posting this with my tail tucked. Ive zoomed into posted pics, searched the wheel fitment databases that I've come across and even emailed car builders to get the answers but with no avail. Most of the cars I saw on these large wheel fitment threads didn't have the wheel tuck look i want, and if they did, they're were heavily modified with after market front wheel wells, mini tubbed and/or rolled lips (like the cars below).

I have a 73 Camaro that i'm thinking either 18s or 19s X 8.5 fronts and 20x10 rears. I know I will have to roll the front fender lips and modify the wheel well where the lip meets to get that tucking clearance but i don't want to mini tub it (just cuz) nor rolling the rear fender lip (don't like the look of the wheel that far out). I don't mind beating in the seatbelt humps to go wider in though. I know I'm sounding like a diva here lol.

What backspacing do you guys suggest/ recommended to get tucked wheel/tire look I'm so desperately searching for?Attachment 185197Attachment 185194Attachment 185195Attachment 185196

Are you Australian? we/they often go for this look and you'll find a smorgasbord of cars built how you like if you checkout the builds from down under. the Shqrp Monaro comes to mind. Or even the PTG black 69 Camaro in NZ. but to achieve this, often you're looking at notched frames because you want to go low. The black PTG Camaro has a one-of-a-kind custom roadsters hop Chassis.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image.../PK9wodw-1.png
https://static1.pt-content.com/image.../UaKrC94-1.png

I think the wheel sizes you're talking may work, you can fit 9.5's up front without modifying the fenders with the right backspace but you won't be able to go as low as you'll need, unfortunately the cars just weren't designed to easily achieve this look like modern cars.
10's on a non-minitubbed rear will be tight but may be possible.

It will help others if you fill us in on your suspension setup also, as this may affect your state options.

Hey Slim, nope I'm not from down under but have been wanting to visit, I hear its beautiful. I'm from the US in the high tax and "progressive" state of California, where our schools are just as crappy as our roads and you can live in a mansion tent on the sidewalk with no problem. ANYWAYS, steering back to this topic before I have an aneurysm! I have a WS6 TransAm front sway bar thats 1 1/4", 7/8" rear sway bar, tubular control arms, 2" drop spindles, hotchkis 2" drop leaf springs, QA1 coilover fronts as far as suspension.

I did have Ridler 645 18x8 with 245/40 fronts and 20x10 with 285/35 rears before doing a big brake kit which resulted in my wheels not fitting around the big calipers, so now I'm getting custom made 2 piece fordged wheels for the car and want to make sure it's right before spending that chunk of money. The 18x8s (I think 4.5BS) came out a lot and the outside edge of the tire was resting on the top wheel well bolts. The 20x10 (unknown BS) fit well but I think would have come too close to the unmodified lip if lowered. Ive emailed Ridler Wheels twice to confirm the backspacing but haven't heard from them yet. I attached some pictures with the Ridlers on the car and one of its current state.
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I would suggest picking up one of those wheel mock up tools.

I've heavily considered that route but after reading a load of reviews on the wheel/tire simulators for the DIY guys that are about $80, I wouldn't feel comfortable with its accuracy. Ive seen the more expensive professional simulators that range from $400 -$700+, but Im hoping to hear from someone that's "been there, done that" help and experience before taking that jump.

I'm running the same brakes as you, they're big boys, not only overall at 14"+ but also in width. Which unfortunately for you leads to the wheels sitting wider. I can't help with the backspace you need sorry but you should definitely order button head screws for your outer fenders, this somewhat eliminates the possibility of rubbing issues here, or at least get rid of the sharper angles of bolts which can damage tires

Yup, they are big girls but i love the way those monsters look!! One of the first things I did was get those flat headed screws. They look so sleek and modern that im going to put these on all my cars when its time. Attachment 185289Attachment 185290

Im planning on adding the thickness of the rotor to the BS to get it right. What wheels did you go with to clear the caliper?

The Blue Gen2 is absolutely insane!

Right! So beautifully done

Quote:

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Originally Posted by slimjim

I'm running the same brakes as you, they're big boys, not only overall at 14"+ but also in width. Which unfortunately for you leads to the wheels sitting wider. I can't help with the backspace you need sorry but you should definitely order button head screws for your outer fenders, this somewhat eliminates the possibility of rubbing issues here, or at least get rid of the sharper angles of bolts which can damage tires

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What wheel and tire combo did you end up going with to clear those monster calipers?

What are your front end alignment specs? Looking at your pic it looks like you have very little negative camber, possibly positive camber. Some negative camber, up to -1 degree or more can make a considerable difference.

Don

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yearn4Chevelle

What wheel and tire combo did you end up going with to clear those monster calipers?

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Boze protouring in 18x12(5"BS+1/4" spacers) and 18x9.5(6"BS) however at my current ride height there isn't any wheel tuck.
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...6m6hjbil-1.jpg

I haven't dialed in the front end at all yet. I put all new front suspension and a steering link kit so haven't done any alignment. Cars been sitting for close to 10 years now but getting to the end stages. Wheels are THE last hurdle

Nice car! I assumed you had a 2nd gen.

Sorry if I missed it, but to get a really deep dish and tucked look, you’ll really need to narrow the rear end.

narrow rear and minitub, no other way possible for the look youre going for.

My only goal is to get that wheel tuck, wasn't focused on the deep dish at all or an extreme tuck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yearn4Chevelle

My only goal is to get that wheel tuck, wasn't focused on the deep dish at all or an extreme tuck

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Pretty sure that each of the pictures you posted, those cars are mini tubbed and have narrowed rear ends. But that being said, when I measured for wheels on my my car, I put on a wheel that I knew the specs, I tape measured clearance inside and out, did the math and ordered some wheels. Be sure to measure both sides, clearance left and right might vary.