Need advice if this is a good pro-touring start - 1968 Firebird with LQ4

[HardHitter]

I've been starting to get into muscle cars recently and was looking into 1970-1973 Camaro's initially. Then I found a 1967 Firebird and started looking into those.

I ended up taking a look at a 1968 Firebird today and I'm trying to spend 10-15K on a budget to give me a good cruiser for now. I want to make sure that the body has little to no rust as that is my main concern since I know body work can add up.

From a view standpoint there was no rust spots that really stood out. I checked the floors (looked under the carpet), inside the fenders, the bottom of the fenders, under the car, etc. I was able to spot some potential rust by the door jams. You can take a look at the pictures and let me know if there is anything you think looks peculiar.


The car needs new brakes or something because I felt like I was full pushing down on the brakes and it would barely start to break. He said that the brakes may needs to be bled.

Car Specs:

The motor is an 04 6.0l (LQ4) from a heavy duty 4x4 Silverado 2500. Motor was cleaned up by Valley Balancing. Comp cam XR275HR and 318 beehive springs were also installed by the same machine shop. The intake is a GM Performance single plane. The ignition is MSD 6LS BOX and js currently operating with a #4 pill timing. The headers are Dynatech aluminum and that are ceramic coated..
The transmission is a 700r4.. All hi performance parts.. Heavy duty clutches and hard gears, Corvette servo and re programmed Valve body. The tranny was rebuilt less than 1k miles.. 2400-2600 stall converter.. Limited slip differential with 3:42 gears from an early 70's Trans-am... All bushings are red polyurethane, Energy Suspension brand.. The subframe connectors are Global West brand.

I'd love to hear your insight on the car and how much you think I should offer for it if I want to go forward with purchasing.



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[HardHitter]

Lot's of views, no response. Anyone?

[Removed user as requested]

From all the education I have received from people that race and build cars, any car can do whatever you want it to do (to a point).

I have a 1969 Ford Mustang after going through a few Dodge Chargers 1968. Decided I wanted a more pro-touring feeling car, that was more high performance orientated, in its performance and in its feeling.

Mustangs are racy inside. Camaros are Racy inside, those Firebirds such as one you mentioned is racy inside. They all pretty much have the same wheel base (turning circle), all about the same size. With all the aftermarket things available, you can really do anything with either 1.

Perhaps a Camaro would be the cheapest to do as they are so common, however, I did own a Trans Am once, 1987, and I have a soft spot for them. I say stick to the Firebird. It is different, not as common and you get a thumbs up from me!

[Tom Welch]

I am building a similar vehicle, a 67 firebird with an lq4 that we rebuilt with ls3 heads and intake, the cam is from Engine Power Systems. I chose a t56 trans, a 9 inch Ford differential with 3.50 gears. After doing a lot of research I decided to use the following suspension; SPC upper and lower control arms with AFX spindles in front and Flex Form composite rear springs with a Watts link in the rear. I think that your car has literally TONS of potential as a protouring car. If the price is right and the lq4 installation was done properly then I would go ahead with the purchase, everything else is up to you to decide on, the car looks like its fairly solid, but even if you find a lot of filler and other issues, a lot of work has been done for you, provided it was done properly.

[srh3trinity]

You have to assess the best you can what the car has and what it needs. What is the buy in price on the car? Is it a driver now? Paint and body will eat up a budget pretty quick, so try to determine the amount of rust as best you can before you buy. The first gen Camaros and Firebirds parts are interchangeable so the sky is the limit with aftermarket suspension and brake bolt ons for that car. You can add as much as your wallet will allow.

[Steve Chryssos]

Unfortunately, one of the first rules of buying an old hot rod is "Never buy a car in primer because it hides too many problems" Then the second rule is "Beware a car in primer and dust." Sounds like you've been careful, but I would go back over that body very carefully. Bring a friend if possible. The shackles are another tell tale sign of cutting corners.

Beyond that, it sure looks good on my 11" screen. What's the sell price?
/Steve

[19,69camaro]

That car is a bondo bucket. Just look at the shot of the drive side rear and any of the wheel arches. Go back with a magnet and check it all out. Also take a look at the floors and around window trim. All that said if you get it for 10k or under I would pick it up.

[riles]

That car is a bondo bucket. Just look at the shot of the drive side rear and any of the wheel arches. Go back with a magnet and check it all out. Also take a look at the floors and around window trim. All that said if you get it for 10k or under I would pick it up.


10K, for a "bondo-bucket"? Walk away from it. Like others said, theres a lot of questionable work done, the wheel wells are one and the gravel guard paint on the entire bottoms is another. For 10-15k you can find much, much better, it just takes time and a lot of patience. Took me 6 years to find the 'right' car.

[ho428]

If this car were in my area I'd offer between 5-7K depending on how much mud I found with a magnet and checking under the rear package tray where someone filled that seam. Personally, I would sell that engine and trans and put in Pontiac power and a 4 or 5 speed, but that's just me.
I've seen people pay a lot more for a lot less, and the first thing they do is cut a quarter panel off and replace it, so I wouldn't let that deter me. But if it needs both quarters, rear valance, door skins, rear filler panel and fender patches, you have to figure you'll be replacing about everything but the engine, trans and rear. The suspension will need some work, simple disc brakes kits aren't that expensive, but probably needs new rear springs and shackles, and better fitting rims and tires just to be a driver. 7K for the car, + 3K to be a good driver. Gives you 5K to use on upgrades, repairs or paint, but not all three.

[Jetfixr320]

Looks pretty shady on the body work. And unless you can do body work and paint, Your going to be way over budget. You will be over $2000 in materials for PPG Deltron primers and paint alone.

[Todd in Vancouver]

A lot will really come down to what you want when you are done and how much work you want to do yourself. Not to sound to vague but really you need to know what your end goal is but from the pictures I would pay $6,500 - $7,500 here in vancouver. Sorry to say but Firebirds generally go for less than Camaros.

case in point this is what i started with;
77389


but being picky this is what I ended up doing to get the car to where I want it so it really comes down to what you want out of the car and how much you are willing to spend.
77390

[Zspoiler]

The body looks pretty sad. Typical Fisher body .And it looks pretty abused. You can tell by the spring shackles, traction bars, etc. If you are looking for another Firebird around that year I would look for a 350 2bbl owned by a woman. Then it would not of been as abused. Because to replace the body panels on this would be cost prohibitive.