67 Firebird 400 - Classic pontiac power

[adibs]

Hey guys, this is my first real post on this website! I have been lurking for quite some time and finally i decided to show you my project. I don't like typing so it will be short handed and concise. I also suck at remembering to take pictures, so bear with me.
I have a 1967 Pontiac Firebird 400 convertible.
car came as a basic shell and included a 1975 400 block and turbo 350 trans and a non posi 3.23 rear
the floors were rusted through as well as the rear fenders.
i am a college kid and this is a father son project.
i have had this project for almost three years.
from the getgo we decided auto because i was young and it was a cheaper option.
Drivetrain:
my father and i bored the engine 40 over, bought small chamber 350 heads got them decked a ton, bought reeaaally thin head gaskets.
heads also were ported and polished and got all new valves. we put in triple valve springs voodoo/lunati street/strip cam hydrolic flat tappet lifters, custom length pushrods and 1.5 ratio roller rockers. we are planing to use a powerjection 3 efi system on a edlebrock performer intake.
we just bought a 2004r trans to use instead of the turbo 350. we wanted some decent streetablity. stock torque converter. all new wiring harness by american autowire classic update series.
Suspension:
improved geometry tubular a arms.
2 inch drop QA1 coilovers
1 inch drop spindles from cpp
disk brake kit all around from cpp
Primary goal:
get this thing running! worry about how it looks later
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these are pictures from when i first got it 2 and a half years ago
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this is the engine fully dressed and ready to go
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how she looks now, duplicolor black chrome bumper. and some cool headlights
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expect some semi frequent updates throughout the summer!

[Crestronwizard]

Father & son projects are great. Good luck!

[andrewb70]

Great project. Where did you get those headlights?

Andrew

[adibs]

Andrew, i got them off of ebay, i think i just searched for halo led headlights for first gen camaro/firebird. they were like $160 i think.

[Z06vet]

Looks like great project. Wish I had been able to build a car with my dad in high school. I like the efi & 2004r. Stick in a posi with those 3.23s and that will be nice setup with pontiac motor. Keep the pics coming.

[adibs]

forget to mention we used a camaro power assist rack and opinion and had to make a custom motor mount. more pictures:
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currently i am wiring the car so the updates picture-wise are going to be dreary. here is a picture of the rats nest in the dash:
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and here is a grounding block we decided to use instead of worrying about grounding the chassis:
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[rohrt]

Looks like a good start. Subscribing

[68firebird]

from what year camaro is the rack and pinion from?

[adibs]

I think it was just labeled "first gen" so my guess would be 67-69 for the rack and pinion

[andrewb70]

I think it was just labeled "first gen" so my guess would be 67-69 for the rack and pinion

1st Gen f-bodies never had a rack and pinion. Where did you get it?

Andrew

[PonchoJohn]

Nice build! It's going to be a nice car :)
Just an FYI for your engine: Check to see what the block casting code is. You should be able to read the number right by the dist. hole. If it ends in 557, that's a thin wall casting block- they're fine for normal passenger car use, but a bad idea for high performance use... you'd be money ahead to find another block (998 casting, etc.) that has thick bulk heads and have it bored to match what you've done in the other block.
Good luck w/ the rest of the build- looking forward to seeing more!

[adibs]

Andrew,
Yeah the rack and pinion is aftermarket but it was designed for a camaro, thus creating clearance issues with the Pontiac motor mounts and where the the double d shaft comes out of the unit. I believe the steering system came from unisteer.
PonchoJohn,
It is a 557 block and we knew all of this while building it. It's going to be my only car and dd for a very long time so, i don't fear it'll have enough go-juice to rip itself to shreds.

[adibs]

what crossmember should i buy for the 2004r?

[Z06vet]

I used a 400 crossmember in a 1st gen camaro. Had to move it back on the subframe a bit & shim the tailshaft up a tad to clear the pan. Bowtie Overdrives makes a bolt-in crossmember for reasonable price.

[adibs]

so the one from bowtie overdrives will bolt the 2004r in my firebird with no modding? sounds like a deal to me.

[adibs]

Im slowly remembering cool stuff we have done to this car as i spend more time with it. out of all the first gen f bodies, the firebird 400 was the only one with two ladder bars. unfortunately, my car didnt come with the floor side brackets. you can only buy the passenger side one because there were so little made for the driver's side. so we made one!
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on this subject: if i were to fabricate two more bars with mounts and triangulate them from the top of the axle and into the sides of the frame rails like most of the setups you see, would i be able to put coilovers in the stock shock mounts and get rid of the leaves? or would it not be stable enough?

[Buryingthesun]

Looks mint!

[72blackbird]

Great work!! Nothing wrong with a 500557 400- they are still capable of handling 400-450 hp and the 450+ ft-lbs. that any 400 poncho can produce. You have a ragtop anyways- no point twisting up that nice bodywork with monster torque from a 455 or 461 stroker.

Geno

[LeighP]

Your floor mounted radius rods are NOT strong enough (where they attach) to actually locate and support the rear end. The only job they were intend for is to control pinion angle change.
If you want a triangulated 4 bar rear, I'd strongly suggest buying something like the Ridetech set up....or similar. There is also the problem of binding up the rear suspension if you get the angles wrong on the triangulated bar set up.
Nice job replicating the radius rod mount. Good luck with your project.

[adibs]

thanks so much for that information! i was only going to do a 4 link if i could use the ladder bars. once i get the car running and have it driving, ill look at suspension stuff and see what i can do.

[adibs]

hey guys- i just picked up a th350 xmember, am i going to have to pull the body off the frame to put it in? or can i try to squezze it in there?

[Z06vet]

I dont think the t350 x member will work with the 2004R. At least I could not make it work without fab work. Scott

[adibs]

I know I will have to modify it but regardless of which xmember I use, will I have to pull off the body to put it in?

[Z06vet]

The 400 xmember will work but you'll likely have to move it back. You mentioned the car came with a T400 trans, did it have the x member? Relocating the x member would likely require you to drop the subframe, def makes it easier. Comes out in no time depending on what you have hooked up so far. The bowtie overdrives bolt in I mentioned earlier will go in easily with subframe in the car.

[adibs]

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bolted up to the 2004r really quite nicely without a hitch and now i am ready to FINALLY put the lump in the car.
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also got a new filter and shift kit for the 2004r, already start playing with the powerjection. i have the fuel pump and filter in already and wiring them now.
cannot wait to drive this thing! im ordering a 2.5 in xpipe exhaust system from pypes. 2.5 inch is plenty big enough right?

[adibs]

can anyone weigh in on whether that exaust system will have enough flow? im ordering soon

[72blackbird]

can anyone weigh in on whether that exaust system will have enough flow? im ordering soon

I see a 400 with 6x heads- your 2 1/2" dual exhaust will be plenty. It will even work with a 400/461 using iron heads- it can support 450-500 hp.

Geno

[adibs]

80250802518025280253So i got the engine in and set ride height. the fabricated mount did not work out as well as i hoped, the engine sits almost perfectly where it should, however, it is a quarter inch low on the fab mount side. i'm not sure how bad this is but i am considering remaking or buying a new mount. anyone care to weigh in? also the xmember is, surprise, not even close to fitting right. ill have to cut the center out and move it back 4-5 inches. i'll keep you posted.

[Z06vet]

Looks good so far. I just shimmed the trans mount so it would clear the pan. 4-5" back sounds about right. I just re-drilled the holes. Look forward to more progress.

[Z06vet]

I just read above- I couldnt make the T350 trans mount work with the 2004R. I used the 400 X member.

[adibs]

yea its totally under the pan, so ill do a bunch of measurements and make something up on solidworks. Might just make one from scratch, save myself from blasting off the rust.

[adibs]

Engine mount troubles have been mended and engine sits very close to level.
testing wiring harness stiff through ignition, such a relief when things work after all that effort.
the fuel pump works very nicely where it is wired, however, the powerjection
system says to take that out and wire it straight to the efi pigtail, dont really want to because it works so nice where it is.
Got the throttle body on and fuel lines are just about buttoned up.
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short list in order to fire her up for the first time:
ignition box
master coil
distributor hold down
finish wiring efi stuff
install headers/exhaust
pretty exciting!
Btw i decided on magnaflow 3 inch xpipe ss exhaust system.

[btbob]

I see a 400 with 6x heads- your 2 1/2" dual exhaust will be plenty. It will even work with a 400/461 using iron heads- it can support 450-500 hp.

Geno

Absolutely. Pretty similar to my setup ( KRE heads though), and my limitation is still intake.

Edit- I just saw you went with the 3 inch. Whelp, I guess we'll hear you coming!

[adibs]

Yea I didn't see that comment until now lol. Jumped on the 3 inch because it was 200 dollars off Hahah, Oh well.

[adibs]

Today these hooker competition headers showed up.
as you can imagine everything did not go smoothly.
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The red dot is where the spline from the power rack and pinion comes straight up,
the line represents the path it must go through that eye bolt.
Im going to have to take this header to my college's formula SAE fab shop and chop up
pipe #1 and re route it to go farther back and then down. We have a nice $15,000 Miller tig machine i like to use:)

[adibs]

i went to our shop today and did the best i could with the headers and here is how it turned out:
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took a lot of nerve to do this to a brand new hooker header
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it turned out not so bad. i even got the 02 bung welded in.
i really thought it was going to work until i put it in,
i am still around 3/8 inch off.
maybe i can persuade it to fit.
also this came:
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[adibs]

back from school and back at it. i got the exhaust in with a little persuasion and i am ready to put fuel in it and search for leaks i am getting close to hearing the engine fire! i already started to work on the base tune tune with pj3. also it turns out a driveshaft from a turbo 350 car works perfect. my one problem right now is that the special crossmember i got from gforce doesnt line up with the trans mount. makes me mad because we ordered for that specific purpose. here's a pic of that xpipe: 97071

[adibs]

Well today i went to fill everything with coolant. turns out the secondhand radiator i have has a leak in it. man i can never win. cant start the engine for another little while. sucks because i got everything else completely ready for a first fire up. ill keep you guys posted.

[lucky13firebird]

btw your wheels looked so cool I went and got a set myself for my 68 ;-) good job so far, looks really good

[adibs]

Thanks man! i like the way your car looks with them too!

[Fbird7]

Hi, I'm from Adelaide Australia and also have a 68 bird convertible. In Adelaide I have to convert mine to right hand drive if I want to modify it at all. Even to use chrome rocker covers. Any way, I am investigation doing a rack and pinion setup. Could the rack and pinion set up in your be installed upside down so the steering input is on the right hand side. The next question is will the steering column input then interfere with the oil filter or the exhaust manifolds.
Thanks
Tim

[adibs]

Tim, sadly you would not be able to install that particular unit upside down. without heavy modification at least. also moving the steering wheel might not be in the way of the oil filter but you certainly will not be able to use any long tube headers.
Alex

[adibs]

We are trying to get the car started and cannot figure out how to wire the powerjection 3(spark control) ecu with the 6a spark box and mallory unilite distributor. in our fumbling we fried the ecu whilst checking for spark. So i just bought another ecu with 1 day shipping. another $340 down the drain. it will get here tomorrow. hopefully i have a video of it running for you guys by the end of tomorrow. Oh and i ended up rerouting that header tube correctly so the steering fits correctly.

[adibs]

Ecu came today and i put everything back together. im looking to try starting it again but again i really dont think i understand which wires to use, i really really dont want to fry the ecu again. Anyone that can help?

[andrewb70]

Ecu came today and i put everything back together. im looking to try starting it again but again i really dont think i understand which wires to use, i really really dont want to fry the ecu again. Anyone that can help?

Have you read the instructions?

Andrew

[adibs]

Hahahah yes Andrew i have, the problem is that i have two sets of instructions that exactly contradict each other. both are from professional products for the same product i just dont know which one is newer, and neither of their methods work. i think i might call them.

[adibs]

Talked to professional products today and they were super helpful. My car runs! ill take videos tomorrow when i set idle and throttle linkage. anyone have experience with adjusting tv cable?

[adibs]

Sorry for the delay but here is what we've got so far:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAIwuSRa6qU&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NKI8vaNXUw&feature=youtu.be

[adibs]

Hello again everyone, I have been able to drive my car around the neighborhood while i am wrapping things up with the intererior. i am loving how the car feels up front!(could use a stiffer sway bar though, i am running stock). my one discontent with the car is that its too high in the back, anyone got a deal on the 3 inch drop hotchkis multileafs? anyway i am slowly getting started on some body work and hopefully going to lay down some primer tomorrow. pics coming soon:99855

[lucky13firebird]

love it, its coming together good

[adibs]

So my dad insists that before we finish the interior and make it ready for inspection, he wants to give it a half decent paint job. I just want to get it registered and insured before i go back to college. anyway here are some pictures of body progress(i will be redoing this stuff a couple years in the future except i will replace the fenders and such when i have time and money)
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[adibs]

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Not the best but just trying to get something presentable

[lucky13firebird]

don't tell me those are pop rivets and filler... they literaly sell that exact patch panel for like 30 bucks and its the exact contours and everything...

but, on a side note, looks good in black ;-)

[adibs]

hhahahah you saw correct i am ashamed but i was running out of time to paint because i have to go back to college so it is what it is. there was no real metal there when we ripped off the old bondo. when i am out of college and have money, i will be welding new rear fenders for both sides and doing the job right.
this is going to be a backyard paint job, but a good backyard paint job lol

[captainofiron]

cool project man. Im glad to see you went with a Pontiac V8 in there and not just another SBC or LSX

Hopefully mine will be up and running soon

[adibs]

Hey guys for those that are interested i have made decent progress with interior and trim (decided to get a licence plate on the car before putting nice paint on the car in the interest of time). Anyway i am close to getting this car on the road.

I need to get a windshield still but not much after that. Lots of pictures coming this weekend. Stay tuned!!!

[adibs]

Here is what i have been working on: New ratchet shifter from B&M, new rear bumper, new carpet, 2002 trans am power leather seats almost there!!!
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[adibs]

Hey guys after a way too long Hiatus, I want to get back to this project.

I got married and moved out of my parents house and now want start wrenching on this thing again.
The car runs and drives and has a licence plate now but i am running into an issue where, the heat keeps climbing up.
Now the block is a 400 bored .040 over and it has a pulley driven water pump(new) regular thermostat, stock radiator with an old flex fan just mounted right on the pulley, no clutch.

So my question is: do you think that the problem is that the car just neds an updated cooling system or do i have a tuning issue?

Thanks,

Alex

[gator68428]

Alex, just saw this build for the first time. Awesome! Similar to my build--started out as a father son project back in 1998 for body work and paint and getting the stock mechanicals going at first. And was my daily in high school.

First thing we did was put in a 428 with a moderate cam. It always ran hot with a stock 4 core radiator, in the FL heat, had to use the beefiest fan clutch and keep an eye on the temp.

10 years ago or so I bought a griffin aluminum radiator ($550 at the time) and have never had a hot engine problem again. Even went to a weaker fan clutch. To this day it's bullet proof. I now have KRE ported heads and a bigger roller cam etc. and I track the car, AutoX, Optima USCA etc. and the car barely gets over 200 after 20 minute track sessions. Radiator was a great investment.

[adibs]

Alex, just saw this build for the first time. Awesome! Similar to my build--started out as a father son project back in 1998 for body work and paint and getting the stock mechanicals going at first. And was my daily in high school.

First thing we did was put in a 428 with a moderate cam. It always ran hot with a stock 4 core radiator, in the FL heat, had to use the beefiest fan clutch and keep an eye on the temp.

10 years ago or so I bought a griffin aluminum radiator ($550 at the time) and have never had a hot engine problem again. Even went to a weaker fan clutch. To this day it's bullet proof. I now have KRE ported heads and a bigger roller cam etc. and I track the car, AutoX, Optima USCA etc. and the car barely gets over 200 after 20 minute track sessions. Radiator was a great investment.

Mitch, thanks for the peace of mind.

I hope investing in a new aluminum 3 core with dual electric fans does the trick, other wise I am gonna have to mess with the tune.
on that note anyone here have in depth experience with powerjection 3 on unique applications?
I have never gotten the tune exactly how I want it but it seems to be resetting to an older tune occasionally(at least if memory serves me right, I havent turned the engine over in months)

[gator68428]

Do you have a wideband oxygen sensor? That's the key to getting the tune right on any EFI system.

[andrewb70]

I recall reading some grumblings on the Pontiac forum about aftermarket water pumps being made wrong. Something about the impeller and the backing plate not being made right, which cause overheating. Something to consider and do some research on...

Andrew

[adibs]

Do you have a wideband oxygen sensor? That's the key to getting the tune right on any EFI system.

I do, when my laptop is hooked up I get live updated a/f, I just haven't run my car in a while so I cant remember if it was as stable as my memory tells me it was.

- - - Updated - - -


I recall reading some grumblings on the Pontiac forum about aftermarket water pumps being made wrong. Something about the impeller and the backing plate not being made right, which cause overheating. Something to consider and do some research on...

Andrew

Andrew,

thanks I will look around for that and check what company made mine

Alex

[timjen7]

Alex,

Congrats on the build and nice work. Reading your thread and just ran into your post about overheating. I did a full build on my 68 and did several mods on my 400 which ended up giving me cooling problems. You can see my build here on PT. This is very common with 400's (more common than not), and after numerous hours of research and trying everything from electric fans, high flow water pumps, etc (none of which worked) my builder and I finally found a solution.
My car generally ran fine at speed, but the second I would come to any stop it would start to climb very quickly. If I got stuck in traffic I was doomed.

We manufactured and patented a new pulley for the car that increases the water flow, especially at idle. Now the car runs consistently at around 165-175 on the streets and doesn't go much above that on the freeway. Everything else is stock. Water pump, fan, etc.

We are starting to produce this unit now. If your symptoms are similar to what I described above this is likely to help your issue.
You can message me if you'd like more info.

Tim

[adibs]

Alex,

Congrats on the build and nice work. Reading your thread and just ran into your post about overheating. I did a full build on my 68 and did several mods on my 400 which ended up giving me cooling problems. You can see my build here on PT. This is very common with 400's (more common than not), and after numerous hours of research and trying everything from electric fans, high flow water pumps, etc (none of which worked) my builder and I finally found a solution.
My car generally ran fine at speed, but the second I would come to any stop it would start to climb very quickly. If I got stuck in traffic I was doomed.

We manufactured and patented a new pulley for the car that increases the water flow, especially at idle. Now the car runs consistently at around 165-175 on the streets and doesn't go much above that on the freeway. Everything else is stock. Water pump, fan, etc.

We are starting to produce this unit now. If your symptoms are similar to what I described above this is likely to help your issue.
You can message me if you'd like more info.

Tim

Tim,

Once i get out of work i will dig into your thread, hopefully this will be the fix i am looking for!

Thanks,

Alex

[adibs]

Another thought i had:

I have a 2004R Trans in this car and it has unknown history, could the transmission be overheating and thus heating the radiator up through the cooler lines?
....i have always wanted to make this car a 6 speed manual... :)

[FireBeater]

Alex, just saw this build for the first time. Awesome! Similar to my build--started out as a father son project back in 1998 for body work and paint and getting the stock mechanicals going at first. And was my daily in high school.

First thing we did was put in a 428 with a moderate cam. It always ran hot with a stock 4 core radiator, in the FL heat, had to use the beefiest fan clutch and keep an eye on the temp.

10 years ago or so I bought a griffin aluminum radiator ($550 at the time) and have never had a hot engine problem again. Even went to a weaker fan clutch. To this day it's bullet proof. I now have KRE ported heads and a bigger roller cam etc. and I track the car, AutoX, Optima USCA etc. and the car barely gets over 200 after 20 minute track sessions. Radiator was a great investment.


I had several firebirds growing up. I still have mine. we had the same issue with it heating up. we watched the temp all the time. We got the biggest 4 core we could get and that helped. I think the next thing is getting an aluminum radiator with good air flow.

[gator68428]

Another thought i had:

I have a 2004R Trans in this car and it has unknown history, could the transmission be overheating and thus heating the radiator up through the cooler lines?
....i have always wanted to make this car a 6 speed manual... :)

I'm not sure if it is common for trannys to vary their heat output based on condition. But getting rid of the hot tranny oil in the rad entirely by going to a manual should only help things. 6 speeds are great.

[adibs]

Spent some time with the Car this weekend while my DD was getting inspected.

It seems like the PowerJection 3 software always reverts told tunes resulting in a really rough cycling engine might have reset the memory in the car.

Speaking of tunes, are there any threads that can help me navigate this software to create a more favorable tune for my setup?

[gator68428]

Spent some time with the Car this weekend while my DD was getting inspected.

It seems like the PowerJection 3 software always reverts told tunes resulting in a really rough cycling engine might have reset the memory in the car.

Speaking of tunes, are there any threads that can help me navigate this software to create a more favorable tune for my setup?

Does the system have a data logging feature? If so, and I'm assuming its a MAP based system then one possible method to improve driveability is the following.

Log while driving and then analyze the log afterwards. Upon stumbling you should see AFR go off target. Record what Load (or MAP pressure) and RPM that occurred at and then make a proportional change to the VE fueling table. Iterate and see if it gets better.

As far as saving the file properly goes, if it's anything like the FAST XFI 2.0 system I'm familiar with, there a few important subtleties you have to pay attention too.

When making changes to a tune when the laptop is plugged in to the car ECU, the changes only affect the ECU. If you want to then save the file onto your laptop to work offline you have to save as before unplugging from ECU (and then give the file a name you can recognize somewhere you can find it, my names usually start with the date like 20170626, then they get sorted and are in order in the file).

When making changes to a tune when the laptop is NOT plugged in to the ECU: Once you made the changes make sure to save them BEFORE plugging back in to the ECU. Once you plug back into to the ECU you need to manually overwrite the current ECU tune with the new file you created/modified while the laptop was offline. If you plug into the ECU before saving the file the changes will be lost. This is because, once the ECU links with the laptop, it shows you the tune file that is on the ECU (not the file you were just working on, on your laptop).

The mistake I make on occasion is I will be analyzing and modifying a tune file offline and then I will plug back in to the ECU before saving the info locally onto my laptop first, losing the changes i just made.

Not sure if any of this helps, but just wanted to throw it out there just in case. Good luck.

[gator68428]

Also, check to make sure your fuel pressure is constant. If the fuel level is low and there is sloshing and/or there is a clog, that will cause hesitations and stumbling. And of course the rest, all sensors working, no vacuum leaks, no electrical noise.

Electrical noise can be debilitating and has been an issue with both EFI systems I have experience with. Make sure your grounds are good and that any high voltage wires coming off your ignition stay separate from other wires in the harness. If there is noise you should see it in the data log, the rpm usually spikes and/or other things go haywire...

[adibs]

Does the system have a data logging feature? If so, and I'm assuming its a MAP based system then one possible method to improve driveability is the following.

Log while driving and then analyze the log afterwards. Upon stumbling you should see AFR go off target. Record what Load (or MAP pressure) and RPM that occurred at and then make a proportional change to the VE fueling table. Iterate and see if it gets better.

As far as saving the file properly goes, if it's anything like the FAST XFI 2.0 system I'm familiar with, there a few important subtleties you have to pay attention too.

When making changes to a tune when the laptop is plugged in to the car ECU, the changes only affect the ECU. If you want to then save the file onto your laptop to work offline you have to save as before unplugging from ECU (and then give the file a name you can recognize somewhere you can find it, my names usually start with the date like 20170626, then they get sorted and are in order in the file).

When making changes to a tune when the laptop is NOT plugged in to the ECU: Once you made the changes make sure to save them BEFORE plugging back in to the ECU. Once you plug back into to the ECU you need to manually overwrite the current ECU tune with the new file you created/modified while the laptop was offline. If you plug into the ECU before saving the file the changes will be lost. This is because, once the ECU links with the laptop, it shows you the tune file that is on the ECU (not the file you were just working on, on your laptop).

The mistake I make on occasion is I will be analyzing and modifying a tune file offline and then I will plug back in to the ECU before saving the info locally onto my laptop first, losing the changes i just made.

Not sure if any of this helps, but just wanted to throw it out there just in case. Good luck.


Thanks for the file save tip, that might actually be what the problem is! yea next time i get back to my parents house i am just going to spend a whole day on trying out your "drive and log" method.

Hopefully my overheating problem lies within the efi adjustments.

[adibs]

Hello all,

I have left this project alone as i live about an hour away from it and dont have nearly as much free time as i used to.

I am married and am looking to buy my first house, savings are coming in but, the longer you rent, the more money you throw away.

if i sell this car and all associated parts and combinemy savings with that i can put a down payment on a house immediately

HOWEVER: this car was never fully finished and i never really got to enjoy it as it was meant to be enjoyed.
thibgs left to do:

Fix cooling issue(aluminum rad electric fans
adjust throttle and TV cable bracket so they are bother working as intended
install rag top(have parts sitting)
DRIVE it.

There is a local pontiac guy that is interested for the right price that could probably buy it as soon as he has time to come see it.


so what say you? i am having alot of trouble deciding

[Alponcho]

Only you know what your financial situation is, so can’t answer your question. Having said this, if in the back of your mind you’re thinking that you’ll get something else to replace it once you’re settled in to your new home, think twice. The reality is that settling in takes a heck of lot longer than you think, it’s more expensive, and then there’s the inertia of life that sort of takes over.

[anguilla1980]

Alex,

Congrats on the build and nice work. Reading your thread and just ran into your post about overheating. I did a full build on my 68 and did several mods on my 400 which ended up giving me cooling problems. You can see my build here on PT. This is very common with 400's (more common than not), and after numerous hours of research and trying everything from electric fans, high flow water pumps, etc (none of which worked) my builder and I finally found a solution.
My car generally ran fine at speed, but the second I would come to any stop it would start to climb very quickly. If I got stuck in traffic I was doomed.

We manufactured and patented a new pulley for the car that increases the water flow, especially at idle. Now the car runs consistently at around 165-175 on the streets and doesn't go much above that on the freeway. Everything else is stock. Water pump, fan, etc.

We are starting to produce this unit now. If your symptoms are similar to what I described above this is likely to help your issue.
You can message me if you'd like more info.

Tim

Tim,

Do you have a link to where these are for sale?

[adibs]

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/d/pineville-1967-firebird-400/6901204159.html

Thanks for all the advice over the years, It has been a pleasure.

[adibs]

165519

Bye Bye Birdy....