My new car??

[TonyL]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img391.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mustang0014wv.jpg)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img391.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mustang0027on.jpg)

a little sign of rust'
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img391.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mustang0030yn.jpg)

A major (expected) sign of rust.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img391.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mustang0049bl.jpg)

The driver's side isn't as bad.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img391.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mustang0179so.jpg)

fired before it even had a chance to crank over!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img367.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mustang0074bw.jpg)

the infamous "access holes"
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img400.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mustang0084cw.jpg)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img400.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mustang0104zw.jpg)

evidence of oldschool body work. note the filler that has been pushed through. The wheelhouse wasn't crushed though.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img400.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mustang0152vc.jpg)

Everything looked solid, ran good. most of the panels fit right, (the hood's a little off on the passenger side near the window.) But a great car!

Oh. there is one more pic...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img398.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mustang0197dv.jpg)

[Steve1968LS2]

Cool deal Tony.. Looks about how I expected and would seem to be a good deal for the $$.

Most of the cars I have found in the $3k range have either been rolling shells with no motor (or not running) that had good bodies but other issues. Or they have been basket cases like the one Rob and I went to look at a couple of weeks ago.

Did it have the same quarters on each side?? lol

So if you were looking for one would you have bought it? The floors are no biggie and the passengers side is a common deal from leaky heater cores (this has a new core so I had a hunch).. The quarter is more of a PITA but nothing that can't be fixed. Best of all it runs which means two things.. Before build testing (getting numbers) and I can cruise it while Penny is out of town getting some loving..

Thanks again!

[Steve1968LS2]

Well I just contacted the seller and bought this car:

http://www.mustangtrader.com/cgi-bin/suite/classifieds/classifieds.cgi?request=detail&id=10749&category_id=112&sub_id=1069&variable_file=autos.variables&group=1&set=1&position=13&total_count=18&website=default&prev_action=display_sub_list&session=$session

Our ever helpful Moderator Tony went to check it out for me and make sure it wasn't a pile or crud.. As you can see in his post it suffers from the trademark issues that gave credence to the term "rustang" but not too bad for a car in the wetter side of the state.

Tony's Post:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9929

So.. thoughts? This will be a PHR project car when Penny is done and I got a Ford because:

1. Lots of parts available for Mustangs.. 67&68 cars have bigger engine bays and tire wells plus they look cool all trans-am'd up.

2. Many of PHR's project cars have been Chevies.. Actually all of them that I can member have been GM products. I thought it was time to show some love to the Ford guys. After this car I would love to do a Mopar like a Duster or some other affordable model.

Looks like it will be debuting at the Edelbrock factory tour next Saturday.. :woot:

Thoughts?

[autokraft]

Steve,


All I can say is it looks like you scored on that baby. That is a real good price. What are your plans?

Good luck!!

Kurt

www.autokraft.org (http://www.autokraft.org)

[steemin]

Steve,
Looks like a great start.
I am anxious to see the project unfold.
Try not to make it too nice.
I kind of like the fact that there are not that many
early model PT Stangs out there.
I would hate to see Mustangs overdone like the 1st gen Camaros :)
Scott

[MuscleRodz]

What is it with you and TX? Although I know the Camaro did not come from there. Looks like a good find.

Mike

[Steve1968LS2]

Autocraft: Well I wish I could name it "project track whore".. lol.. but that should give you an idea. Want to build a nice cruiser that is perfect for open track days and simple cruising.

Steemin: I will be "presentable".. low on bling but nice enough so you wouldn't be embarrased going to cruise night or some other event. No AC and a decent stereo, lots of attention to the drivetrain and suspension. Most of all it has to be fun and show that you can build cool little track car without breaking the bank. The only part I am not sure of is what motor I will run and the differential.

MuscleRodz: You lost me here.. the car is in NorCal although Penny might be traveling BACK to North Carolina :pat:

[MuscleRodz]

For some reason I had Tony (nineball) in my head and the car was in TX, not Tony L. This is me lately. :hah: :banghead:

Mike

[MrQuick]

so is it a done deal? looks good.

[MrQuick]

Looks good guys, well are we good to go?

[trapin]

What's this.....Penny might get her walking papers?

[CAMAROBOY69]

Glad to hear it ran. That quarter is definely going to have to be replaced as with most of the metal in the car. Make sure to get under the car and look EVERYWHERE. Believe me. I am currently going thru hell with our 67 coupe. I cant believe the rust that I find in hidden places. Expecialy under the rear seat. Thats somewhere i never expected to see rust holes. Really inspect the floors as close as you can or you will be in the same hell with me. Get on your back and crawl under the car. I highly recommend it because as stated in the pics there are already signs of "oldshool bodywork".
When you start stripping the paint of you might cry when you see the hidden damage.
Tony, that "little sign of rust" is 100x worse than you think. That looks like a big piece of bondo cracking. There might even be a hidden clothes hanger that formed the rear quarter lip. Trust me I have seen it wayy to many times. The loook of that floor has me nervous of what is to come. Make sure to check under the dash to see if there is any rust from the cowl vent.
Since the car runs that is a plus. The bad part is once you start on the body, expect a LOT of down time because there will be a lot of metal to replace.
I have saved a lot of cars in my life and the Mustangs, by far, are the worst I have ever seen. They really really get destroyed once rust kicks in.

[CAMAROBOY69]

I posted this in tonys thread before I realized you bought the car. Damn
Glad to hear it ran. That quarter is definely going to have to be replaced as with most of the metal in the car. Make sure to get under the car and look EVERYWHERE. Believe me. I am currently going thru hell with our 67 coupe. I cant believe the rust that I find in hidden places. Expecialy under the rear seat. Thats somewhere i never expected to see rust holes. Really inspect the floors as close as you can or you will be in the same hell with me. Get on your back and crawl under the car. I highly recommend it because as stated in the pics there are already signs of "oldshool bodywork".
When you start stripping the paint of you might cry when you see the hidden damage.
Tony, that "little sign of rust" is 100x worse than you think. That looks like a big piece of bondo cracking. There might even be a hidden clothes hanger that formed the rear quarter lip. Trust me I have seen it wayy to many times. The loook of that floor has me nervous of what is to come. Make sure to check under the dash to see if there is any rust from the cowl vent.
Since the car runs that is a plus. The bad part is once you start on the body, expect a LOT of down time because there will be a lot of metal to replace.
I have saved a lot of cars in my life and the Mustangs, by far, are the worst I have ever seen. They really really get destroyed once rust kicks in.
$4,500 I dont imagine you paid all that but a decent deal regardless.

What color are you thinking? Please dont tell me its the same color we are painting ours!!!!!

[68protouring454]

dump some water down cowl vents, if it leaks onto carpet, do not buy it, the whole cowl is spot welded on and serious labor to replace, everything else is easy or normal metal work, the cowl gets expensive quick

[TonyL]

actually, the rear quarter isnt that bad. the bondo area forward of the back tire is about the size of my hand and an 1/8 of an inch thick. we got all up inside it. The inner fender wasnt crushed and hadn't been repaired. Rust is pushing the area out though. the cowl looked very good, like new, as did the trunk floor. No signs of being jumped, or ever wrecked and repaired in the front. Aside from some well intentioned screw and slide hammer bodywork that wasn't sealed properly, she's a pretty solid car. I look forward to pics of her all stripped down later.

[F70t/a]

looks like a cool project :cheers:

[JLM]

Looks like a cool project. What about a 99/01 cammed DOHC 4.6 with a t-56 and a 9 inch for the drivetrain. The 99/01 4.6's are great open track engines. Lots of rpm (7000 rpm from the factory) and they live in those upper rpms. Also the fact that they aer all alluminum will cut down on weight in the front end. They match easily to a t-56 as well.

[Steve1968LS2]

What's this.....Penny might get her walking papers?

No no no no no... in other words.. NO.. Penny is the keeper now that I have everything else worked out.

The Mustang is my "other" project car. Here is the deal. I need to do project cars for the magazine so I will have MY keeper car and then my project car that I will build, drive, beat on the track then sell to finance the next project car.

And best of all, it is a good excuse to tell the wife why I need TWO hobby cars.. :lmao:

[Steve1968LS2]

I posted this in tonys thread before I realized you bought the car. Damn
Glad to hear it ran. That quarter is definely going to have to be replaced as with most of the metal in the car. Make sure to get under the car and look EVERYWHERE. Believe me. I am currently going thru hell with our 67 coupe. I cant believe the rust that I find in hidden places. Expecialy under the rear seat. Thats somewhere i never expected to see rust holes. Really inspect the floors as close as you can or you will be in the same hell with me. Get on your back and crawl under the car. I highly recommend it because as stated in the pics there are already signs of "oldshool bodywork".
When you start stripping the paint of you might cry when you see the hidden damage.
Tony, that "little sign of rust" is 100x worse than you think. That looks like a big piece of bondo cracking. There might even be a hidden clothes hanger that formed the rear quarter lip. Trust me I have seen it wayy to many times. The loook of that floor has me nervous of what is to come. Make sure to check under the dash to see if there is any rust from the cowl vent.
Since the car runs that is a plus. The bad part is once you start on the body, expect a LOT of down time because there will be a lot of metal to replace.
I have saved a lot of cars in my life and the Mustangs, by far, are the worst I have ever seen. They really really get destroyed once rust kicks in.
$4,500 I dont imagine you paid all that but a decent deal regardless.

What color are you thinking? Please dont tell me its the same color we are painting ours!!!!!

Well, to find a rust free Mustang is like finding an honest politician, sure they are out there but more the exception. I expected the floor issue since I know the leaky heater core deal (I had a 65 'stang and it had the same deal).

Hopefully Tony will chime in here on how closely he checked it all out, I got the impression he looked pretty hard. The quarter panel is a bummer but it can be replaced. the car is just gonna get a driver paintjob, nothing too fancy. I was thinking white with pearl orange stripes but I haven't thought about it too much.

Rust sucks but what ya gonna do.. it's a Mustang..

[Steve1968LS2]

actually, the rear quarter isnt that bad. the bondo area forward of the back tire is about the size of my hand and an 1/8 of an inch thick. we got all up inside it. The inner fender wasnt crushed and hadn't been repaired. Rust is pushing the area out though. the cowl looked very good, like new, as did the trunk floor. No signs of being jumped, or ever wrecked and repaired in the front. Aside from some well intentioned screw and slide hammer bodywork that wasn't sealed properly, she's a pretty solid car. I look forward to pics of her all stripped down later.

Thanks.. that makes me feel WAY better.. I had forgot to ask you about the dreaded cowl area yesterday.. Hard to find a cheap 40 year old car that doesn't have some issues.

I just called Jen and sealed the deal.. $3800 bucks.. :woot:

[BigCat]

Steve, Please build this into a retro-Trans Am racer with a 351W (dual-quad) and T-56, one heck of a track car!!! (Oh, by the way I'll be living my dreams through you, since my '66 Mustang and '72 Maverick seem to be taking forever.)

Nice find! Can't wait to see progress pics!

Luke

[Steve1968LS2]

Steve, Please build this into a retro-Trans Am racer with a 351W (dual-quad) and T-56, one heck of a track car!!! (Oh, by the way I'll be living my dreams through you, since my '66 Mustang and '72 Maverick seem to be taking forever.)

Nice find! Can't wait to see progress pics!

Luke

That is the look I want.. not a copy of a TA car but the flavor of one. A manual trans is a must and a 351 looks likely but I haven't commited yet. One reason I wanted the 67/68 was the bigger more 351 friendly engine bay. I will probley fix the floors first, do the mods then paint the car. Not the way I would do a real car of mine but make more sense for the book.

I can't wait to see the damn car.. lol.. I wonder how it will do through the cones bone stock.. hmmm

[Steve1968LS2]

I posted this in tonys thread before I realized That quarter is definely going to have to be replaced as with most of the metal in the car. Make sure to get under the car and look EVERYWHERE.!

Tony answered this in his thread.. sounds like the car is pretty good. The floors would have most likely been fine if it wasn't for the poorly designed Ford heater core.

What color are you painting yours? I was thinking white or platinum silver..

[TonyL]

Yeah. we went all over the car, fine toothed comb style. the only real issues were the rust in the floor the quarter and possibly a small workable situation on the decklid where a truck had been used to push the car. you may even get away with replacing a section of the quarter instead of the whole thing.

still cant get over how quick it started up and how smoothly it idled.... someone knew what they were doing when they set her up. Im sure you'll find something i missed, but it's not going to be major. :fingersx: :fingersx:

steve, did you get transport figured out? and is that pic of her usable?

[MrQuick]

steve, did you get transport figured out?

Yes if he calls me...are we good to go?

[yody]

hey there, what a nice car you are buying, I really like it.

[Damn True]

Might be interesting to do a rebuild of the suspension using all new moog bushings and ball joints etc and checking, slalom, 1/4 mile, skidpad, and lap time. Then continue to do the testing as you make improvements to the car.

I know...more work, but comparing all new aftermarket stuff to clapped out old stock parts is an apples to pencil sharpener comparison.

[Steve1968LS2]

Might be interesting to do a rebuild of the suspension using all new moog bushings and ball joints etc and checking, slalom, 1/4 mile, skidpad, and lap time. Then continue to do the testing as you make improvements to the car.

I know...more work, but comparing all new aftermarket stuff to clapped out old stock parts is an apples to pencil sharpener comparison.

Good point.. Rebuild the stock suspension, not like it would cost that much.. then test..

First performance part to be bolted on and tested will be the Fay's 2 watts link. The cool part is that it is bolt on so I can test the various parts with and without it.. how much does it help a stock car? How much does it help a modded car?

I like the "apples to pencil sharpener" deal.. might have to steal that.. ;)

Vince: bought the car and I will call you, what we discussed before sounds great!

<-- writing like crazy today

[Damn True]

Lets see, thats four words @

How much are you guys paying per word these days?



Project names:
"Other side of the tracks"
"Track Star"


BTW, I have been away from your mag for a while...bought the last couple of issues, the quality has REALLY improved.
My old favorite has slipped A LOT since Smith left and Ro took over.

[wantahertzdonut]

That is the look I want.. not a copy of a TA car but the flavor of one. A manual trans is a must and a 351 looks likely but I haven't commited yet. One reason I wanted the 67/68 was the bigger more 351 friendly engine bay. I will probley fix the floors first, do the mods then paint the car. Not the way I would do a real car of mine but make more sense for the book.

The 351W's like to rev high, and with a big cam and some high compression, you'll be getting good numbers which will make for fun days at the course.

Another idea is what a friend of mine had in his drag car a couple years ago. He bought a 302 short block for about $200 at a swap meet. Did some serious port work to some GT-40 heads (this was before AL heads were affordable), had a wild crazy cam, and high compression (12:1 or maybe higher), and although this thing idled at about 2000RPM, he could FREE REV the engine at 9000RPM. Stock bottom end too

He literally had to put his foot to the floor for a second but the engine didn't even blink at winding that high with no load. Never blew up. He sold the engine before I had a car or I'd have bought it myself.

Nothing sweater or more intimidating than a V8 spinning that fast! And yes, the car was fast. I'm sure you can get something even better with a 351.

[Steve1968LS2]

Lets see, thats four words @

How much are you guys paying per word these days?

Project names:
"Other side of the tracks"
"Track Star"

BTW, I have been away from your mag for a while...bought the last couple of issues, the quality has REALLY improved.
My old favorite has slipped A LOT since Smith left and Ro took over.

I have a name for the project (they wouldn't let me use Track Whore)..

Given my paycheck I get about .03 cents a word.. If I use your phrase I will mail you a check.. lol

Thanks for the comments on the mag.. Ive been here 6 months and I am learning more and more all the time.

[kmcanally]

First performance part to be bolted on and tested will be the Fay's 2 watts link...

I could not find Fay or his/her 2 watts link on a Google search..are you sure that is not Phase 2 Watts Link? Who makes it?

[Steve1968LS2]

I could not find Fay or his/her 2 watts link on a Google search..are you sure that is not Phase 2 Watts Link? Who makes it?

www.fays2.net

The guy is a racer and knows his stuff.. seems like a good part and being bolt is a plus.. I'm curious to see what improvements it may give.

[kmcanally]

www.fays2.net

The guy is a racer and knows his stuff.. seems like a good part and being bolt is a plus.. I'm curious to see what improvements it may give.

very interesting! I had a panhard rod on my Mustang before I realized that I could not run the exhaust over the rear so I axed it.

[B Cichocki]

very interesting! I had a panhard rod on my Mustang before I realized that I could not run the exhaust over the rear so I axed it.

I just put the Maier racing fully adjustable PHB on my car over the summer. Any good exhaust shop can route the pipes. I wasn't about to get rid of the GT valance/tips on my car.

-Brian

[dropit69]

ok steve where do i sign up for a job where they make you have project cars????

[kmcanally]

I just put the Maier racing fully adjustable PHB on my car over the summer. Any good exhaust shop can route the pipes. I wasn't about to get rid of the GT valance/tips on my car.

-Brian

BTW... love your car

Mine was a Maier as well but it seemed there was no way for the exhaust to go over the rear with it in place so we cut the brackets back off of the rear housing. Got any pics of you PHB?

Also sent you a PM.