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View Full Version : How to help prevent your car from burning to the ground - A real life example.



CarlC
05-16-2013, 09:26 AM
Last week James Shipka, Jimi Day, and I participated in the One Lap of America where combined the three of us we put on over 12,000 miles on our cars in one week. On the first long transit stage at about 10:00pm Jimi Day pulled over to the side of the highway with a no fuel pressure condition. James and I turned around to go help Jimi.

As we drove back I thought back to the last gas stop. On the previous stops Jimi and I used almost the same amount of fuel. On the last stop he used almost three gallons more. Figuring it was just a hiccup in something we motored on. Without seeing the car the preliminary diagnosis was fuel leak.

Jimi had "repaired" the leak and the car was running again. However, the reason for the fuel leak was something that sent chills down all of our spines. The high-pressure fuel line connection to the fuel rail had popped off. This connection is right above the valve cover and headers. Jimi just pushed the fitting back on and the car started. There was a gas station a mile up the road so the decision was made to drive the car there and make proper repairs.

The fitting that Jimi had on AMXess is like that on the left below. It uses a plastic clip for fitting retainment. On AMXess the plastic clip stayed on the rail connection but the connector body pulled off, hence leaving an open fuel line in the engine compartment over headers that are wrapped in insulation that can soak up fuel. This fitting and clip were removed and replaced with the type on the right. That is a Russell P/N 644120 and uses a "U" nut instead of the plastic clip to secure the fitting. They are also available in different colors.

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Jimi has not done anything abnormal to cause this condition. He does drive the heck out of his car, a testament to the build quality that Randy Johnson put into the car. But Randy did something that saved the car, something that all of us should consider when dealing with high-pressure electric fuel pumps. He followed the suggestions made in the VaporWorx instructions. Let's backtrack just a bit to get a better understanding of the safety concern.

Electric fuel pumps typically need a relay or other device to supply power. Let's consider the VaporWorx PWM control system for now as a relay as well, it's just a device that supplies power to an electric fuel pump. Relays require an electical trigger signal to operate. This trigger often is suppled by the IGN +, hence when the ignition key is on, so is the pump. This also means that the pump runs whenever the key is on even if the engine is not running. So what happens if a fuel line comes off in the engine compartment? Near the exhaust? Heat source? The pump keeps on running and pumping fuel at a furious rate. Pretty scary!

So what is needed is a smart way to control the turn-on function of the relay so that it only provides power to the fuel pump when needed. The GM ECM, as well as many aftermarket ECM's, have a fuel enable function. This FE function is pretty simple, it provides a BAT+ signal to the relay only under certain conditions. The ECM can recognize when there is a relay (VaporWorx PWM as well) attached to the FE connection and will throw an error code if not properly connected. Normally the ECM will provide a two-second prime function when the key is turned on, then shut down the signal. Once engine rotation is sensed the ECM will re-enable the BAT+ signal to the relay and turn on the fuel pump. The ECM is acting as a smart sensor to shut down the high-pressure fuel system when it is not needed. This is where Randy, in my opinion, saved Jimi's car. Randy used the recommended ECM fuel enable signal to turn on the VaporWorx controller instead of opting for the easier IGN+ signal. When the fuel line came off and the engine died, the ECM shut down the fuel system. No more fuel was being pumped over a hot exhaust system.

To boil it all down:

1) Be sure to use secure fittings for all fuel line connections. They should not be able to be pulled off by hand.
2) Use the smart ECM fuel enable signal to control fuel system relays or VaporWorx controller.

Jameson
05-16-2013, 10:13 AM
This scares me, I have the fitting on the left on my car... Ironically when I was working on the car before I started it and had pressure on the system the fitting popped off my rail. After looking more it took some fiddling to get the plastic clip to properly seat and hold the line on. While I am only 70miles deep on my fresh build I may have to change to those style fittings for piece of mind!

I also have my fuel pump wired to use the ECM as control over the fuel pump instead of a IGN power source. Atleast that gives me some piece of mind!

Good post!

sccacuda
05-16-2013, 10:38 AM
I have been a Chrysler tech for 20 years. That is the same fitting used on OEM Chrysler vehicles for that same amount of time. Those fittings do not pop apart. They don't get seated initially, and then they come loose later. The correct way to install them is to put the plastic retainer in the fuel line first and then snap it onto the hard line. If you are reusing an older one, you have to make sure the ears pop out and lock in the grooves (the high tech "pull on the line after you install it" check). I don't think everyone needs to run out and replace them, but a check to make sure they are (were) properly installed is a good idea.

CarlC
05-16-2013, 12:04 PM
Agreed Craig, but we're talking an aftermarket housing, not a OE designed part. I too have not had a problem with an OE part, but the aftermarket aluminum body parts seem to be a different story.

sccacuda
05-16-2013, 12:57 PM
Agreed Craig, but we're talking an aftermarket housing, not a OE designed part. I too have not had a problem with an OE part, but the aftermarket aluminum body parts seem to be a different story.

Sorry, I saw the piece, but thought you were talking about the locks in general.

I totally agree, if it's not OE, I'd want an AN fitting or something like the piece you show with a positive lock.

dontlifttoshift
05-16-2013, 01:25 PM
I had the fitting on the left. It ran fine and we didn't have a problem. We drove the car to KC for Goodguys and ran Autocross. After a run on Saturday I backed into my pitstall and heard a quick "psst" and then smelled fuel. It had pushed the fitting off the fuel rail.....after I shut it off. It was installed properly as mentioned above and had been on the car for a couple of thousand miles at that point. We zip tied it back on and drove home and I immediately changed the fitting to the new style. No problem ever since.

To Carl's point, 60 psi out of a 3/8" line will make a great flamethrower. Always let the ECM control the pump.

CarlC
05-16-2013, 03:01 PM
Jimi's was the same way Donny. At least 10,000 miles without a problem, then.......

Kenova
05-16-2013, 06:21 PM
So what is needed is a smart way to control the turn-on function of the relay so that it only provides power to the fuel pump when needed. The GM ECM, as well as many aftermarket ECM's, have a fuel enable function. This FE function is pretty simple, it provides a BAT+ signal to the relay only under certain conditions. The ECM can recognize when there is a relay (VaporWorx PWM as well) attached to the FE connection and will throw an error code if not properly connected. Normally the ECM will provide a two-second prime function when the key is turned on, then shut down the signal. Once engine rotation is sensed the ECM will re-enable the BAT+ signal to the relay and turn on the fuel pump. The ECM is acting as a smart sensor to shut down the high-pressure fuel system when it is not needed. This is where Randy, in my opinion, saved Jimi's car. Randy used the recommended ECM fuel enable signal to turn on the VaporWorx controller instead of opting for the easier IGN+ signal. When the fuel line came off and the engine died, the ECM shut down the fuel system. No more fuel was being pumped over a hot exhaust system.


For those without computer controls they can use an oil pressure switch from a Vega 2300.
The electric Vega fuel pump is energized by the starter circuit only when starting. After the engine is running and has oil pressure the fuel pump is energized through the oil pressure switch.
No oil pressure, no fuel delivery.

Ken

GNon18s
05-16-2013, 06:41 PM
I like this thread. Thank you for posting it. Not as cool as talking about the new wheel finishes offered by..blah,blah,blah. But more important!

GNon18s
05-16-2013, 06:44 PM
Didn't Brian Finch burn the front clip off his car from a fuel line popping of in the engine compartment at Carolina motorsports park? Scary stuff

Rod
05-16-2013, 06:56 PM
Thanks for bringing this up Carl, I often try to push the locking fitting on sales to LS swap guys for the safety factor, you cant believe how many times (8 out of 10) many go with the clip on because its a few duckets cheaper?

CarlC
05-16-2013, 09:15 PM
You're right Rod, a few $ vs. the cost of the car. I solved that problem from a commercial standpoint. I won't sell the clip style because I do not trust it.

rustomatic
05-17-2013, 03:37 PM
On another note, I've been meaning to mount a fire extinguisher in the Falcon... I've seen quite a few burning cars over the years, and all it takes is a bit of imperfect wiring at the wrong time...

Mr Nick
05-18-2013, 01:26 PM
Anybody know if the FAST EZ-EFI ECU shuts off the fuel pump if the engine dies?

MrForce
05-19-2013, 05:03 PM
Anybody know if the FAST EZ-EFI ECU shuts off the fuel pump if the engine dies?

The fuel pump trigger wire is rpm based. If the engine dies, it shuts the pump off.

Rob

rickpaw
05-21-2013, 02:18 PM
So, I'm in a middle of an LS swap in my firebird and would like to use ECM to trip the fuel pump relay. How do I do that? I'm using LS1 ECM and wiring harness from PSI.

Mr Nick
05-21-2013, 02:49 PM
The fuel pump trigger wire is rpm based. If the engine dies, it shuts the pump off.

Rob

Thanks Rob!

CarlC
05-22-2013, 08:10 PM
So, I'm in a middle of an LS swap in my firebird and would like to use ECM to trip the fuel pump relay. How do I do that? I'm using LS1 ECM and wiring harness from PSI.

Does the PSI harness come with a fuel pump relay already installed? If so, confirm with PSI that it uses the fuel relay enable signal from the ECM. For an 0411 ECM I believe it is Pin 9 on the red connector.

rickpaw
05-23-2013, 03:26 AM
Does the PSI harness come with a fuel pump relay already installed? If so, confirm with PSI that it uses the fuel relay enable signal from the ECM. For an 0411 ECM I believe it is Pin 9 on the red connector.

Yes it does. I meant to check with John @ PSI after reading this post but have not had the time.

Very informative thread.

Tu

Happy Gilmore
05-23-2013, 06:48 PM
I do the same for carbureted cars and trucks with electric fuel pumps. I use a oil pressure switch connected to a relay. Oil pressure drops below a certain point ( I believe 7 psi ) and the relay is turned off killing the fuel pump. It's not that expensive to do and in my opinion cheap insurance, especially if you happen to get into a car accident. Or a fuel line comes off or is ruptured

rsk68
05-25-2013, 04:38 PM
I had the same fear and did this, brazed a AN fitting to the fuel rail.

67Soto
05-31-2013, 02:29 PM
Great post Carl, thanks for the information. I will be sure to order the locking fitting and connect the fuel pump through the ECM.

kball
06-09-2013, 10:17 AM
Great post to save a big problem for $15. I bought the clip on one last year, not knowing about the other style. It's getting ordered tomorrow. One less thing to worry about.