Advice on 12" Sub

[esenior]

The subwoofer in my 69 Camaro convertible isn't performing as well as I had hoped. I'm not one who likes an excessive amount of bass, but my current setup is falling short and if I turn up the bass any more, the sub starts clipping.

Here's my setup:
AVIC X-930BT Head Unit (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/GPS-Navigation/AVIC-X930BT)
TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=293-650) (in a professionally built sub box, see picture below)
Pioneer GM-D9500F 4-Channel Digital Amp (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D9500F) (for Fronts/Rear)
Pioneer GM-D8500M Mono Digital Amp (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8500M) (for Sub)
Focal 165 VRS Front Mids and Tweeters (http://www.focal.com/en/polyglass-archives/127-165-vrs-3544051751452.html)
Focal Rear Speakers (Can't remember which model)

Based on this configuration, and the fact that I have a rather LOUD exhaust, what would you recommend for a 12" sub?

Here's the current sub in the trunk:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/69CAMAROPT_120226_12MJPG-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

Have you tried turning it around and firing towards the back of the trunk?

Andrew

[hifi875]

What ^^^he said and put some real power on it. Pioneer amps ain't the ballsiest amp out there.

[six9chevelle.com]

Your problem is the sub and amp combo. Your sub is a 2 ohm DVC sub which produces a 4 ohm load in series and you amp at 4 ohms is only 300W. If you had a 4 ohm DVC subs you would have a 2 ohm load in parallel and double your power to 600W. Or you could get a second sub and have a 2 ohm load in series-parallel and that would double your output also.

Ryan

[alowerlevel]

Your problem is the sub and amp combo. Your sub is a 2 ohm DVC sub which produces a 4 ohm load in series and you amp at 4 ohms is only 300W. If you had a 4 ohm DVC subs you would have a 2 ohm load in parallel and double your power to 600W. Or you could get a second sub and have a 2 ohm load in series-parallel and that would double your output also.

Ryan

X2, Your problem lies not with just the sub, but the combo of both the sub and amp. If I were in your shoes, and already had a box built for that specific sub I would just buy a new sub amp. Look for something 1 ohm stable that puts out around 700w RMS @ 1ohm (better to have some headroom than to have to have the gains cranked to try to get the output you want). Looking on Pioneers site it looks like this amp would work (just set the gains correctly) if you want to keep things all Pioneer http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8601

[rfalker1]

Give it a shot firing to the back first... its a firing into open air since u have a convertible which is not the best working situation for any sub

[meenaggie]

Don't take this the wrong way but I would be questioning how good your professional shop doing the install is. The reason I say that is it looks like the box is made out of plywood which is a no-no for sub enclosures. Too much flex . . . Should be MDF. Also the speaker wire running through the port is another questionable practice. Personally I think you would be happier with a smaller sealed enclosure if you are not going for boomy bass and you would get some of your trunk back at the same time. As for improving what you have I would start with checking the sub wiring for polarity (both voice coils) and whether the voice coils are in parallel or series. Based on your clipping comment I guess parallel which is a 1 ohm given your sub which the amp you have is not stable at. It is stable to 2 ohms only and has plenty of power (600w) for most subs if wired correctly. I recommend you replace the sub with something that will give you a 2 ohm load. Single or dual voice coil does not really matter(i.e. SVC 2 ohm or DVC 4+4 ohm). The best you are going to do with your current setup is 4 ohm load for 300 watts for our amp which is not taking advantage of it being 2 ohm stable and will under power the sub you have selected. Hope that helps.

[blue1968roadrunner]

Don't take this the wrong way but I would be questioning how good your professional shop doing the install is. The reason I say that is it looks like the box is made out of plywood which is a no-no for sub enclosures. Too much flex . . . Should be MDF. Also the speaker wire running through the port is another questionable practice. Personally I think you would be happier with a smaller sealed enclosure if you are not going for boomy bass and you would get some of your trunk back at the same time. As for improving what you have I would start with checking the sub wiring for polarity (both voice coils) and whether the voice coils are in parallel or series. Based on your clipping comment I guess parallel which is a 1 ohm given your sub which the amp you have is not stable at. It is stable to 2 ohms only and has plenty of power (600w) for most subs if wired correctly. I recommend you replace the sub with something that will give you a 2 ohm load. Single or dual voice coil does not really matter(i.e. SVC 2 ohm or DVC 4+4 ohm). The best you are going to do with your current setup is 4 ohm load for 300 watts for our amp which is not taking advantage of it being 2 ohm stable and will under power the sub you have selected. Hope that helps.

^. I agree. A ported enclosure that looks like it wasn't built professionally may also not be tuned properly to that subwoofer which could in turn cause clipping. I also question the quality of the craftsmanship and therfore the configuration of the box for that subwoofer. If you are running both voice coils in series (4 ohm total load), the subwoofer should still be okay with little to no clipping if the box is built right, and the crossover point for the subwoofer is set to correctly.
There are many variables here that could be potential problems. I agree with going to a sealed box that meets the manufacturers requirements as they are generally more forgiving in both tuning and size calculations, and if possible a larger amplifier that can support either a larger 4 ohm load in series, or a 1 ohm load in parallel. Another thing to look at is how far the gain on the amp is turned up (if there is one- I am not familiar with that amp and the link isn't working for me). Pushing the amp itself too hard can also cause clipping.

[67 ls1 vert]

I'm not sure why you even worry about it.. your car is so dang loud to listen to the radio anyways. Besides... your engine sounds to cool to to listen to music.

[Krazed]

Ok here's the skinny on the TC Epic 12. It's identical to the old TC-1000 Sub. Which is on par with the IDQ-12v3. One of the better Sound Quality/Loud subs you can buy. Lots of people flock to it and love it.

Your sub should not be sounding the way it is.

Your sub is fine. Chances are it's the Amp and Box that are giving you the issue. Sure having it in a convertible as a ported sub is not giving you any sort of cabin gain, but my guess is the box is built poorly. Tuned poorly, and under powered by the amp. Hence: Causing your clipping. Most times it's the amp clipping due to being pushed too hard, not the sub being mismatched.

My suggestion, as others have suggested. Get a new amp and box.

Your sub, according to the specs, likes a 0.70 cubic ft box sealed. Or a 2.5 cubic ft. box ported. Suggested port is around 45Hz as most music that isnt rap doesnt generally go below that.

If it were me, I'd go the 1 cubic ft sealed box size, made from MDF, with a little bracing inside (a few 1"x1" cross ways is enough) and call it a day.

Then, get a new amp. Precision Power put out a new line recently called the Phantom series. They are good, clean power. Well respected in the Audio community, and decently priced for what you get.

PPI also owns Soundstream, Farenheit Technologies, Kole, and Power Acoustik just FYI.

Check this out: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38335_Precision-Power-PPI-P1000.1.html

Bulding a sealed sub box is easy, and being the car crowd, shouldnt be hard for us guys to do. I've built many many boxes. Just be sure to seal it inside with some silicone when done. And drill a hole for your speaker wire if you dont want to spend the money on binding posts.

Good luck! This should solve your under powered sub issues.