Regular Grade 8 bolts as wheel studs?

[lawlorj]

I'm converting to 1/2"-20 thread-in wheel studs. I am having a hard time finding studs in the length that I want. Question is can I use regular Grade 8 bolts instead of the application specific studs sold by axle companies? Is there something special about these "wheel studs" or are they just regular grade 8 bolts?

For example these ones by Moser. They are labled as Grade 8, being min. 150,000 psi tensile strength. The only difference would be the ARP ones that are 190,000 psi tensile strength, but are way too long for my application. I guess I could cut them?

http://www.moserengineering.com/other-parts/studs/1-2-20-x-3-screw-in.html

[carbuff]

We are going to be cutting the studs on my car also as the closed end lugs are too short. Can't comment on using regular Grade 8 bolts though, but I'm not sure how you would lock them in place?

[El_Diablo]

Get them longer than what you need and machine them shorter. I would not use bolts unless it was an emergency repair and even then I would rather tow it.

[Quickboat]

Aren't grade 8 bolts with full thread a special bolt? ARP likely sells them.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/d7aa6beee38c4048b516c674cf3cb5ae_zps4e32-1.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/quickboat/media/d7aa6bee-e38c-4048-b516-c674cf3cb5ae_zps4e325b43.jpg.html)

Grade 8 is 150,000psi
Grade 9 is 180,000psi

McMaster Carr

92620A750
Grade 8 Alloy Steel Hex Head Cap Screw Zinc Yellow Pltd, 1/2"-20 Thrd, 3" L, Fully Thrd
$4.33ea

[lawlorj]

Thanks for all the quick replies!


I'm not sure how you would lock them in place?

I should have been more specific when I said threaded studs, should have said thread-in. The hubs are threaded and the studs screw in from the back rather than the knurled style stud that is pressed in. Is that what you mean?


Get them longer than what you need and machine them shorter.

I was trying to avoid cutting studs, but looks like I might have to. In my experience bolts are never the same after they are cut. Suppose I could have the machinist do them properly.


Aren't grade 8 bolts with full thread a special bolt?

I wouldn't say they are special, you probably can't get them at home depot but any good fastener supplier should have them. They are called tap bolts.

I will go on the side of caution and get the actual wheel studs.

The original question still remains though, what is the difference between a grade 8 thread-in wheel stud and a regular fully threaded grade 8 bolt? Excluding the ARP studs of course, which are of higher grade/strength.

[Quickboat]

The pic above is of the Moser offering installed 1/2 20 x 3" and at $22.50 for a set of ten w/lock washers, a much better deal than the full thread grade 8 bolt for $4.33ea at McMaster Carr I posted....

[lawlorj]

Thanks for the pic, I couldn't see it earlier because I was viewing it at work (no photobucket access.) I haven't price shopped yet because I wasen't sure if it could even work. Looking at your example however, it is a no brainer to go with the moser set. I don't know if I will be able to use washers though because the holes in my hubs are slighty reccesed, there is not much room. We'll see. Thanks for the info!

Jaime

[TheJDMan]

Grade 8 bolts from a quality supplier, not made in China, will work just fine. Use a high strength thread locker. There are also a number of screw in studs available from Summit.

[Kenova]

Suppose I could have the machinist do them properly.

Just don't tell them they are for a car. It has been my experience that they will freak out, start flapping their arms and start yelling there is no way in hell that they will do any work on them.

As for the $22.50 price quoted for the Moser studs, don't forget where you live. That price can change a lot when they cross the boarder.

Ken

[LS1-IROC]

Just cut the longer ones. As long as you cut them fairly square and put a nice chamfer on the ends you will never have a problem threading the nuts on.

[65BuickGS]

And make darn sure to re torque after you drive it for a bit,,,I didn't and sheared the right rear wheel studs off at 50 mph,,,wasnt a ride I would wish on my worst enemy!!!!

[Barrrf]

Just cut the longer ones. As long as you cut them fairly square and put a nice chamfer on the ends you will never have a problem threading the nuts on.

When you cut them, cut them with the nut on then screw the nut off after the cut. This usually "cuts" the threads and along with the chamfer putting the nut back on is easier.

[lawlorj]

Great tips!


When you cut them, cut them with the nut on then screw the nut off after the cut. This usually "cuts" the threads and along with the chamfer putting the nut back on is easier.

I was thinking of doing this same thing, except using a die instead of a nut.

[rod cole]

The large thing everyone is missing is the washers are there so the bolt stud can tighten against something. If you just screw a bolt in it will lock up on the slight taper at the bottom of the the threaded part and create a stress break. The washers have a tapered side to them to eliminate the stress and should go into almost any recess. All this applies to Strange engineering axle/studs anyway.