C6Z06 brakes

[whytry]

I have a friend that has a C6Z06 and just got new calipers, rotors, pads, for his and was asking if I may want his old ones. Im not sure if the prices are good or not. Kinda wanted feedback. I have a 68 Camaro with Budnik Fat Lip Fontana's and would love to have these calipers, etc on my car....

What I'm asking is - what else is needed to get these on my car approx cost wise... I know Tobin from Kore3 is the guy but I wanted to post this up and try to get some ideas ASAP, so I can answer my buddies question if I want them for $1000, they have approx 25k miles on them.... Or is the cost about the same to et them from tobin as a complete kit

Thx

[El_Diablo]

You can get remans anywhere from $700-$1200 without a core. If you're like me and would get new rotors and pads anyways, I wouldn't exactly consider it a fantastic deal.

[csouth]

You can get remans anywhere from $700-$1200 without a core. If you're like me and would get new rotors and pads anyways, I wouldn't exactly consider it a fantastic deal.

x2... I would try to get the calipers only and see what he says. Not sure what brakes you're currently running, but you may want to download the template Tobin has on the Kore3 website to verify fitment.

[whytry]

K, so I've done more work on this setup and I got the calipers, pads, and rotors for $700. Sounds like a decent price. Tobin be expecting some ?'s soon.... I used your template and they will fit behind my 18" Budniks.... So I now will be looking at the brackets and hub needed.....

[csouth]

Thats a fair price for used. I paid $600 for mine on the Corvette forum without pads and rotors

[whytry]

So from searching and trying to read as much as I could on here, it's looking like I am going to need to space my wheels out a little from the calpier. I have stock disc's now, removing them this weekend. How many on here are running a spacer for their wheels, and will this pose problems with the wheels now sticking out too far? I know that I need new hubs to run these brakes what is/are my best options here, stock drum, Kore3's etc... THX all

[CanyonKiller]

If it cleared the template you shouldn't need to space the wheels out. I used the drum brake hub and machined it done on a brake lathe at work. The factory z06 rotor are HEAVY. You can use the kore hub and a 2 piece rotor to lose some weight which is what I'm planning to do when its time to do my brakes. The hubs will move your wheel surface in .25" and then back out the thickness of the rotor so its negligible.

[csouth]

So from searching and trying to read as much as I could on here, it's looking like I am going to need to space my wheels out a little from the calpier. I have stock disc's now, removing them this weekend. How many on here are running a spacer for their wheels, and will this pose problems with the wheels now sticking out too far? I know that I need new hubs to run these brakes what is/are my best options here, stock drum, Kore3's etc... THX all

I didn't ask, is this a front setup only? If not, make sure you sized both templates as they are different front and rear. Like Canyon said, if you cleared the templates fitment should not be a problem.

[whytry]

Yes as of right now fronts only

Thx guys

[csouth]

Still Check the Corvette forum from time to time...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-parts-for-sale-wanted/3311304-fs-c6-zo6-brake-setup.html

[whytry]

Ok so got fronts with Kore3 brackets for the fronts. I'm hoping to get them installed this coming week!! I have looked at everything and I'm missing the bolts that hold the front caliper to the caliper bracket. Any ideas of what they look like or where I can ge them from?

Thx

[Apogee]

Brad, you have an email. The caliper mounting fasteners vary depending on the application, however for the GMSS applications, they are an M14x2 x 35mm hex head cap screw, class 10.9, zinc plated. While not hen's teeth, they're not exactly something you're likely to find at your local hardware or auto parts store, so let us know if we messed up and forgot to include those with your hardware kit and we'll get them out to you ASAP.

Tobin
KORE3

[whytry]

Thx for the amazing follow up Tobin! Brakes hopefully on the car next couple days!!!!

[whytry]

Oh yeah, just incase wasn't Tobin's fault. My sons decided to help me and took the bolts with them n were pretending to put them in the power wheels escalade. Kids!!

[whytry]

Ok so I did a test fit today and :(

The caliper actually hits the face of the wheel. I was wondering in this could pose an issue for me and it did. So what i'm now looking at is either new longer studs and spacers. It looks like I need a good 1/2". I made sure to try the template for caliper clearance on the wheel hoop but wondered about this part.

Other option is new wheels all around.... Which was trying to avoid....


Any ideas for me guys?

[andrewb70]

I would run spacers that get bolted to the hub and have studs built in. Also make sure that the spacers register on the hub and that the spacers have a lip that the wheel can register to.

Andrew

[Apogee]

Post up some pics so that we get the whole picture of what you have...you mentioned 18" Budnik's earlier that fit the templates...did you download the wrong template? Your front wheels will need about a 1.81" minimum pad thickness to clear the 1.69" front caliper overhang dimension whereas the rears will require 1.56" minimum pad thickness to clear the 1.44" overhang dimension. Unless you specified the brakes you were intending to run when you ordered your wheels from Budnik, it would be very unlikely for them to provide extra thick pads since it costs more.

A wheel spacer will provide as much clearance as you need for the calipers, but it will also push your wheel out by effectively reducing your backspacing and potentially causing interference issues between the tire and fender.

The brackets and hoses that you bought from us are compatible with all of the C5 and C6 brake kits, so you could step down to a smaller kit such as the C6 Z51 or base level kits with the smaller calipers. Either of these should fit behind the wheels you have now and still meet or exceed your performance requirements if not necessarily your aesthetic requirements.

Tobin
KORE3

[whytry]

I'll be able to post some pix tomorrow. I'm hoping my wheels studs come in tomorrow and I can get them put on and then should be able to snap some pix off showing where they hit

I did not specify my brakes when I ordered the wheels from Budnik, but I've also had these wheels for a couple years and might look at some new ones...

[whytry]

K so I installed 2 7/8 studs and added approx 1" of washers and it clears the caliper.... It was as stock 18x7 Budnik with an extra 1/4" shaved off the center hub section of the wheel itself as at one point in time they rubbed the outside of the inner fenderwell, and that was due to a horrible buy on my part on a prior disc brake upgrade and the disc brakes pushed the wheels out 3/8"

So if I run a 1" spacer what issues will I run into? It will be probably be on the ground this weekend like I said im trying to get it on the ground for better pics etc...

[MrQuick]

get some new wheels buddy....: )

if they clear the caliper they might not clear the outer wheel well or fender. If your gonna run 1" get yourself an adapter spacer. They are much safer.

[raustinss]

Brad I sent you a text message, got the rear brakes thanks so here what I can propose to you..... I've got a full set ( 4 disc's 4 calipers just rebuilt to and fresh blue powder coat pads hoses etc) for a z51 corvette let's trade my set for your zo6 fronts...this will complete my zo6 system, give you new brakes and prevent you from having to replace your wheels. feel free to think it over and either text, email or Pm me.... thanks Ryan

[whytry]

So just trying to get them installed looking at new wheels anyways Vince!! So another reason to get me sooner!! One test fit, as I stated I have a 1" spacer and they clear now, spin pretty freely, but once wheels are tightened up and torqued down cant spin freely in fact can't spin at all!!! I've checked and the caliper is not contacting rim at all and can see gaps all around caliper.....

Loosen and spin again. Is there something I'm missing here..... Please help, really wanted to get WhyTry on the ground and see a sneak preview of how those brakes look back there

[71RS/SS396]

What happens if you leave the wheel off and run the lugs up tight to rotor with the wheel off? I'm thinking you need to shim the caliper so that it's centered on the rotor.

[whytry]

That's exactly it!! I did what you suggested and it's contacting on the backside of the rotor.. I don't see any adjustment there. I need to move the caliper closer to the motor (inside) outer pads clear and have 3/8" gap. Inside there is a definite part of caliper touching rotor not just pads I mean. Hands dirty, ideas, suggestions? Got no kids for the day really wanted to get this done

Should I file down the Kore3 bracket? Not sure how else to create some clearance....

[CFster]

get some new wheels buddy....: )

if they clear the caliper they might not clear the outer wheel well or fender. If your gonna run 1" get yourself an adapter spacer. They are much safer.

Yeah. Unless his rims have a huge amount of backspace there's no way they're not going to rub on the outside. That's the problem with the Z06 brakes - wheel choices are extremely limited. I couldn't even get stock Z06 rims to fit on my car.

[71RS/SS396]

That's exactly it!! I did what you suggested and it's contacting on the backside of the rotor.. I don't see any adjustment there. I need to move the caliper closer to the motor (inside) outer pads clear and have 3/8" gap. Inside there is a definite part of caliper touching rotor not just pads I mean. Hands dirty, ideas, suggestions? Got no kids for the day really wanted to get this done

Should I file down the Kore3 bracket? Not sure how else to create some clearance....

I wouldn't start modifying the bracket, you need to add shims between the caliper and the bracket to move the caliper back, I would assume that Kore3 sells the shims, you can try hardened washers but they may be to thick. Can you post a picture of the bracket/caliper mounted on the spindle?

[whytry]

8130181302

Here is 2 pics. Working on more now

[whytry]

On the caliper pic where it's rubbing the rotor I put some silver marker on. It's the 2 circles at the ends of the hockey pucks..

[whytry]

And here it is in the car. See what I mean, there's no room for a spacer... I'm thinking I have to have something installed wrong but it all looks rt... So I'm at a loss...

[71RS/SS396]

I don't see anything wrong with the bracket installation or do I see a way to shim the caliper. I see that you are using the stock drum brake hub and I'm wondering if that's the problem. Kore 3's site says that their billet hubs increase the track width by .200" per side which tells me it pushes the rotor out .200" here's the page I found it on KORE3 Industries LLC: On and Off-Road Performance Automotive Components (http://www.kore3.com/proddetail.php?prod=10075) read note 3. I think I would contact Tobin and find out if that is the problem.

[whytry]

Yeah that's what I did. I left Tobin a message. Hoping to hear back today. I called this am

[71RS/SS396]

Yeah that's what I did. I left Tobin a message. Hoping to hear back today. I called this am

Keep plugging away at it! I know this stuff can get frustrating at times. Sorry I couldn't be more help, good luck.

[whytry]

In the install instructions it shows the bracket has a grooved section on both mounting points and mine doesn't have that... Not sure if generic instructions for all big brake kits or not but a thought none the less

I'm going to try spinning the brackets from left to right side and see if there's something there I could be doing wrong.

Thx for the thoughts!!

[Apogee]

Brad, the brackets appear to be installed correctly. The instructions show an earlier generation of bracket that had machined reliefs on both sides and used thicker material, so your brackets are the newest/latest/greatest revision. Next, the KORE3 billet GMSS hubs have the same relative flange offset as the OE Chevy drum hubs, the added .20" track width is due to the difference in rotor hat thickness (~.30") versus the drum hat thickness (~.10"). I've emailed you the Chevy drum hub reference drawing back in June, so I'm going to assume that you really do have the Chevy drum hubs and not something else.

First question...do you have an interference on one side or both? If just one side, then what differs from side to side?

If you put a straight edge across the pad guide pins, are they even? You could shim the pins outward to gain some clearance there, but you're obviously somewhat limited in that regard...I think I saw someone selling pin shims on here or lateral-g not too long ago.

Tobin
KORE3