Opinions on Stage 8 Locking Fasteners for LS Engines?

[sjaroslo]

For Headers.... Thread title kind of says it all. Using Stainless Works headers on an LSX454, planning on using the Valco high-temp RTV that SW recommends--does it make sense to also go with the Stage 8 stuff? On the LS, it doesn't look like the bolts are all that close to the header tubes, so I'm wondering what the bolt locks against...? Thanks.

[sjaroslo]

I guess no opinions is, in and of itself, an opinion....

[dontlifttoshift]

Totally Stainless http://shop.totallystainless.com/productlistheaderbolts.php

I have had good luck with these and they are WAY easier to deal with than the Stage 8 stuff.

Anti-seize, torque to spec, drive a few hundred miles, retorque, and forget about it.

[raustinss]

I'd say either will work but then again I haven't used stage 8 stuff, just heard lots of good things about them. Donny is quite though.. make sure you use anti seize and then give them a torque. A few heating and cooling cycles and re torque you should be rocking and rolling

[JMitch19]

I had the Stage 8's and I wasn't a fan. Mine rust in less than a year and I was only caught in the rain once or twice. They are also a bit of a pita to install. I ended up switching to stardard ARP bolts of the correct size not their $100 header bolts. I installed them any the same method Donny recommended and never had any problems.

[IMPALA MAN]

Stage 8 is a great company with great products. That being said, there are some applications where they are required. A header that is built " correctly" is not a case where this is needed. Let me explain. These bolts are designed to keep bolts from backing out (coming loose). Now let's discuss what causes bolts to come loose after you tighten them.
You all have seen headers that have a built up surface weld around the port of the flange. The manufacturer claims this helps seal the gasket. However this is what really happens. There is a gap between the cylinder head surface and the flange where the bolt holes are. This is an area that the manufacturer did not build up with weld. So when you tighten the header bolt, you bend the flange. In addition, you cannot get it completely tight. Then you heat the flange up and cool it down over and over again when you run the engine and then shut it off. After only a few heat cycles, the bolt backs out. So you tighten ( and bend) the flange some more. This all continues until you have a flange so warped that you keep blowing header gaskets.
Here is the solution. Buy headers that have the gasket surface machined flat like an exhaust manifold or cylinder head. Most manufacturers are doing this now, however there are still some that do not.
A final note: Do you ever have to keep retightening your exhaust manifolds? Cylinder heads? Water pump? Any surface that has two flat machined surfaces? Do the bolts ever back out on these connections? All Stage 8 does is keep the bolt from backing out. However if the header is built correctly, the bolt won't back out. FYI hope this helps.

[CarlC]

I've had the Stainless Works headers in mine since 2008 on a supercharged LS1. It uses the stock gaskets and bolts with anti-seize. Zero problems since then.

[sjaroslo]

Thank you everyone, appreciate the feedback. I think that my default position will be stock hardware for now. I can always find something else to spend that money on!