1,600 pounds and LS power!! Brunton M-spec

[subtlez28]

My first exposure to a Brunton Stalker was at a track event, several years ago. The particular car I saw was a Stalker with an LS3. It set fast time of day. It was light, simplistic, and it was powered my my favorite breed of engine. I was racing an LS1 powered 02 Z-28 at the time (the reason for my screen name). I loved the broad power band of the LS1, but wished I didn't have to carry all the Camaro's weight around corners and into braking zones. The Stalker was a car that was less than 1/2 the weight of my Camaro (3,600 pounds w driver), easier to work on, and undeniably faster. I was smitten.


After a couple years of messing with other projects, and even dabbling in off-road Jeeps and UTVs, it was time to get back to the road course. I looked into Cobra replicas, but after digging deeper into the Stalker idea, and speaking directly with one of the owners, Glen, it was clear that the Stalker better fit my wants. And after speaking with Glen, I knew their new M-spec chassis was the way to go. GM LS powertrain, independent suspension at all corners, and a real roll bar that looked like it belonged there. The canti-lever suspension was a huge deal to me. Plus, it is made right here in the good old USA!:flag:

The Classic Stalker uses as solid rear axle (out of an S-10) and front spindles form an S-10 or G-body. These parts are hung on a fabricated chassis on fabricated control arms. The new M-spec uses a CTS rear diff with Miata uprights. Front spindles on the M-spec are also Miata pieces. They good news is that makes consumables like bearings and rotors cheap. And the geometry of the Miata stuff is quite good. Though the pieces seem a bit small for us muscle car guys, remember they only have to suspend and stop 1/2 the weight of even an extremely light muscle car.


We worked out a deal and I flew down to Florida, rented a Penske truck, and met the Mineharts in person. It was great dealing directly with the owners of the company. Glen and Scott are enthusiasts, who know their stuff, and seem to enjoy sharing their product w like minded car nuts. They really made the whole purchase and pick up easy and personalized.


I got to tour the shop, and more importantly got a ride in an M-spec! A quick ride shotgun w Scott made it clear that I had made the right choice. I've had some fast cars, and have had friends w even faster cars. In fact I had just got to drive a friend's new ZL1 Camaro. This Brunton thing blew everything else out of the water! At the time their test car was running a stock, truck 5.3 liter LS engine, right down to the truck cam (though w LS1 intake and headers). My mind was struggling to comprehend what a 6.2 liter LS with say, 500 hp could do!


I couldn't wait to turn my new bare chassis into a running car to find out!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/image_zps913103d1-1.jpg


We strapped it into the cube van, and my brother and I road tripped back to the frozen tundra of Wisconsin.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/9FE01E126F114174BD48CF88D456242B15630000-1.jpg


Picking it up in December meant family commitments kept me from getting started right away. Having it set idle in the clutter of the garage was difficult.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/8312AC541137455A99A5AFB729EEDFF915630000-1.jpg










I spent what felt like forever organizing the garage and hanging the body work up on the walls, safe and out of the way. Eventually, I was able to start fabricating some aluminum panels.


Step one, flip it over, and build the floor:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/D8607231AD2C4B12A70BC2EC9897FC1015630000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/D8607231AD2C4B12A70BC2EC9897FC1015630000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/9E9C746048BF49CA8F29D51C6EB753A615630000-1.jpg


Working with the aluminum was well within the grasp of your basic, do-it-your-selfer.


The pretty bare aluminum and Clecos really made me feel like some pro race car builder. LOL


As a testament to just how light the Brunton chassis is, after building the floors, I was able to just roll the chassis over, and pick it up (one end at a time) and set it on saw horses!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/C970CD6A822E45FF83380A221078DCC117200000-1.jpg


Building the panels just takes patience and basic tools like a jig saw, drill, and clamps. Brunton has videos available to walk a new builder through the process, and are there to answer emails and even phone calls to help you though.


I've had a couple of friends helping me out from time to time, which really helps keep the motivation up. Just focusing on one task or panel at a time keeps you from getting overwhelmed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/B7479C71C80B49098ACD62666DB5583550860000-1.jpg






I bounced around a little and mocked up the front suspension:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/25D517C64CFF4145830111E8A6A7E7C526810000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/A0313099BADE492FAF324E1A6DE0598387620000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/8EB6A95998884073BE51091BD0F7D2C887620000-1.jpg


The canti-levers are so well fabricated, I cannot bring myself to paint them!


But I took the rest apart and another friend (networking is key) powder-coated the control arms and spindles.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/5E894DD1AAB346BF98A0939CF335728480020000-1.jpg








Wow, according to the date stamp on my photo, this 6.2L L92 has been waiting patiently on a stand for almost 5 years now!! For anyone unfamiliar w the L92 it is essentially the truck version of the LS3. It has the same aluminum block and cylinder heads (though w solid rather than sodium filled valves). The L92 uses VVT (variable valve timing) via a cam phaser. It makes 403 hp in stock form w truck accessories.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/DSCN3388-1.jpg


Due to the cramped nature of a Se7en chassis, the VVT had to go. That extra 1/2 inch that the cam phaser took up behind the water pump was just to much. The good news is that opens up pandora's box because a cam swap is necessary. I decided to go with a stock LS9 (the ZR1 Corvette's supercharged engine) cam. It is shockingly low priced ($120) and is similar in specs to an LS7 cam. Two friends of mine (andrewb70 and Bow Tie 67 (https://www.pro-touring.com/member.php?5721-Bow-Tie-67)) are running LS7 cams in their L92 swapped muscle cars and got 420 RWHP (that should be more than 500 HP at the crank). I also picked up some Texas Speed valve springs.


Bow Tie 67 (https://www.pro-touring.com/member.php?5721-Bow-Tie-67), came up to offer his experience w internal engine work.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/1AB79DE4C0884FEF9B46A4E983B5886311784000-1.jpg
Here you can see the cam phaser with the timing cover removed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/ACDF8C4291294A4EA81169837DC9B01311784000-1.jpg


Sadly, we were not able to put a cam back in. I had purchased a stock LS7 cam. But when I opened the box, it was not a GM cam, and it was damaged. So, I'm waiting on the new LS9 cam to arrive.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/4514C4101A5D467B8E3F3B3409256A8111784000-1.jpg








We were able to swap out the valve springs.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/AC830A4DC43442E49D9D26A62984597311784000-1.jpg


And we swapped out the stock rod bolts for Katech ones. This is a supposed weak point of LS engines, so I figure $200 on extreme quality rod bolts is reasonable insurance.


I also installed the Corvette style oil pan (loosely) and pick up. The engine will get a Corvette harmonic balancer and water pump also to clear the chassis.

Side note, I ordered LS9 push rods and timing chain with the cam. Further research shows them to be the same GM part numbers as the L92 timing chain and push rods. Looks like GM puts the good stuff in the truck engines too!

[MidnightSpecial]

Wow. I will be keeping up with this. Thanks for posting. Looks great so far.

[andrewb70]

Hey Shaun,

Glad to see this posted here.

So what was the final verdict on the LS9 cam base circle? From the sound of it, the LS9 and the L92 share pushrods, which tells me that the came base circles are the same. Right?

Andrew

[andrewb70]

.....


Sadly, we were not able to put a cam back in. I had purchased a stock LS7 cam. But when I opened the box, it was not a GM cam, and it was damaged. So, I'm waiting on the new LS9 cam to arrive.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/4514C4101A5D467B8E3F3B3409256A8111784000-1.jpg




.....

Tip of the day: If you have the engine on a stand, you can flip it upside down and not sweat the lifters potentially falling down as you are swapping the cam.

Andrew

[subtlez28]

Hey Shaun,

Glad to see this posted here.

So what was the final verdict on the LS9 cam base circle? From the sound of it, the LS9 and the L92 share pushrods, which tells me that the came base circles are the same. Right?

Andrew

Andrew, glad you saw it. I was about to send you a PM. I did not get an official answer on the base circle, but made the same conclusion based on same rockers and push rods. One odd thing though is the LS9 listed only one part number for rocker arms, while the L92 has two (you can see they are different - one matches the LS9). Not sure what is up with that, or if it was a database error...

Knowing the LS9 uses the same push rods, do you think I should trust them, or still get hardened push rods? I know there is room for improvement, but they would kind of be a cheap "fusible link" if something went wrong.

Did you run the stock timing chain set up? I have read some debate on which of the two factory types is better on Tech (tensioner vs dampener). The LS9 and L92 use the same style, but different from the LS2,3 etc.


Tip of the day: If you have the engine on a stand, you can flip it upside down and not sweat the lifters potentially falling down as you are swapping the cam.

Andrew


Good tip! Matt and I were discussing how you can spin the cam, and the plastic retainers hold the lifters up. But then, I'm not the trusting kind, so upside down would have been a good safety measure.

[andrewb70]

Andrew, glad you saw it. I was about to send you a PM. I did not get an official answer on the base circle, but made the same conclusion based on same rockers and push rods. One odd thing though is the LS9 listed only one part number for rocker arms, while the L92 has two (you can see they are different - one matches the LS9). Not sure what is up with that, or if it was a database error...

Knowing the LS9 uses the same push rods, do you think I should trust them, or still get hardened push rods? I know there is room for improvement, but they would kind of be a cheap "fusible link" if something went wrong.

Did you run the stock timing chain set up? I have read some debate on which of the two factory types is better on Tech (tensioner vs dampener). The LS9 and L92 use the same style, but different from the LS2,3 etc.


Both the L92 and LS9 should list two different part numbers for the rocker arms, since the intake and the exhaust rockers are different. If the L92 and the LS9 pushrods are the same, I would just run them.

I know I kept the chain, and I think I installed the LS2/3 style dampeners. They were included in the "kit" that I got which had the proper cam gear.

Andrew

[cornfedbill]

I am a big Locost 7 fan. I have always been impressed with the Brunton Stalker for its simplicity and use of common donor parts. With the engine you are building, this thing will need to be certified by the FAA.

I am planning to build a Locost 7 from scratch with my oldest son using his V8 Sonoma pickup as the donor.

Cool stuff! I am eager to see how your build turns out.

[keithq69]

Love it, can't wait to see more progress.

Keith

[no go nova]

Where are you getting your l92 engines from?

[subtlez28]

Love it, can't wait to see more progress.

Keith
Thanks!


Where are you getting your l92 engines from?
They actually used to build Escalades, Tahoes, Denalis and medium duty GM trucks here in Janesville. While shopping for a late model LS engine (now almost 5 years ago) I found out the local, late model salvage picked up several L92s from GM. A freight car derailed and they bumped into each-other damaging small plastic parts and intakes. I sold off a few to members here and on Tech. I kept one for me. I had hoped to keep the VVT (new at the time) and put it in my Buick. But, I've had enough of it sitting on a stand. Time to use it!

My powder coater dropped off some more of his work. Engine mounts, rear control arms, and the fabricated piece to mount the master cylinder (reversed):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/740F4D2C0E5F46F08DBA243DADCF5BBF29090000-1.jpg
I sent him off with the pushrods and tie rods. They are gold anodized, but I have decided to black out most parts, leaving the fasteners as is for contrast.

A friend of mine who has been a huge help dropped over today. We made some progress. It is starting to look like a car!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/04FB0081DAD84D10B4B933CC489183BD29090000-1.jpg

I also got some GM parts in. My LS9 cam, timing chain and pushrod...
I was surprised to see the timing chain was made in France of all places.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/445697538909441D9FA8E0F0E1F50DC834480000-1.jpg
I was more surprised that ordering "PUSH RODS" at the discounted price of $15.29 netted me exactly one push rod! I thought it was too cheap to be a set of 16, but also to much to just be one. Especially considering the description label of "push rodS". Not a big deal though since I found out my L92 push rods are the same part number as the LS9s.

Hope to slap in the LS9 cam soon, and button up the engine!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/0D9D8CCCF6894F70BD198DF52914372E34480000-1.jpg

To that end. Can someone advise what the substance is called that GM puts in the corner of the gaskets? It is an off white and stays tacky, sort of like plumbers' putty. Though I realize thats not what it is.

[subtlez28]

I am a big Locost 7 fan. I have always been impressed with the Brunton Stalker for its simplicity and use of common donor parts. With the engine you are building, this thing will need to be certified by the FAA.

I am planning to build a Locost 7 from scratch with my oldest son using his V8 Sonoma pickup as the donor.

Cool stuff! I am eager to see how your build turns out.

Thanks!

Building a Lotus 7 from scratch would be a really fun project. I'm betting the V-8 Sonoma is a lot of fun already! Put the power-train in what I like to think of as a T-bucket that handles... Now that is hot rodding!

[andrewb70]

....

To that end. Can someone advise what the substance is called that GM puts in the corner of the gaskets? It is an off white and stays tacky, sort of like plumbers' putty. Though I realize thats not what it is.

It's donkey spunk...LOL

I've used black RTV with success.

Andrew

[Chadman27]

This is awesome, can't wait to see the end product!

[subtlez28]

I got a little more work in today. I finished off the top of the trans tunnel. All the clamps, lumber, and square stock are to create the slight bend in the panel as it transitions to flat:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/11D260ED1A364D74AFBCD7B0397E0B8240880000-1.jpg

I cut in the rough shape of the scuttle onto the fire-wall shelf, and fit the fiberglass dash to the scuttle's rear side:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/42DB357649CE4CE9A1A9EE619B11FEDD40880000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/E87B583A126D437B8CEF17C5631A1DEF40880000-1.jpg

We made up templates out of cardboard yesterday. That really helped making the cuts to the shelf and dash.

I completely wrapped the fiberglass dash in painters tape to avoid scratching it.

I only have a couple more pieces of aluminum to fit (the other side panel, 2 trim pieces that go under the hood, and a simple foot well panel).

Now for the fun part! Test fitting the engine and bolting up the suspension and brakes!

[no go nova]

Lucky you and i cant wait to see this in action.

[2wolf_Michael]

I have looked into building an L7 based car a few times. I figure they are a good track day car and good for auto-x also. Will watch your build.

I think it is time pull out some of my old drawing and look it to building one of these myself.

[subtlez28]

I was able to finish off the aluminum panels.

My LS9 cam came in. I have been asked, why use a cam intended for a forced induction engine. The reason is it is similar in specs to an LS7 cam, and I have friends who have had success w LS7 cams in L92s. The LS7 cam is more aggressive in an actual LS7 though due to its 1.8 rockers (as apposed to the 1.7s on most LS engines). Oh, and it is $120 new as apposed to around $400 for the LS7 or most any LS cam... Can anyone explain that?

LS9 cam specs: 211/230 .558/.552 (or.562 according to some internet sources...) 122.5 LSA
LS7 cam specs: 211/230 .560/.557 120 LSA
LS6 cam specs: 204/218 .551/.547 117 LSA

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/7433790CDDB64DA7BD7BA10967215EA898800000-1.jpg
I re-used the L92 timing chain and tensioner as they were unused and the same part # as the LS9 pieces.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20AF2DE3614245A098103776E78631E198800000-1.jpg
I purchased a VVT delete kit from Texas Speed that has an LS2 front cover, cam sprocket, and cam sensor.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/9E3A333C5B854A869DCCD9E5A2F1FF2A98800000-1.jpg

I installed the oil pan w/out a gasket to align the front cover, and sprung for the GM sealant fro the corners.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/9E3A333C5B854A869DCCD9E5A2F1FF2A98800000-1.jpg

[subtlez28]

With more gracious help from friends I have pulled the L92 from the stand, and bolted up the bell housing to align the oil pan. As luck would have it my torque wrench crapped out. I'm glad I didn't trust it because it wanted to put down way more than the spec 18 ft/lbs on the oil pan bolts! That would have been a bad day stripping treads out of the aluminum block! But I snugged them down so at least it is aligned, and I picked up 2 new torque wrenches the other day. A 1/2" drive to replace the failed unit and a smaller 3/8" in/lb that will be better suited for most smaller fasteners. Hope the old torque wrench was accurate when we were doing the rod bolts!! I think it was though, just the low torque settings that seem to be an issue...

Then we put it back on the stand to install the corvette balancer. I skipped the trick of heating the balancer to make installation easier. That may have been a mistake as installation was quite difficult. In fact I ruined a specialized tool made to install LS balancers. After reading a bit on the inter-webs on how much torque to apply I found it to be 250 lb/ft! So I needed a cheater bar. Problem was the special tool required a large crescent wrench (as I didn't have a large enough open end wrench). So my usual cheater pipe would not fit. After some garage scrounging, we did find a suitable replacement that did fit over the wider wrench handle:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/E754F687F7A4443C9EFF68B062350F5615468000-1.jpg
Who knows what that super specialized, high performance cheater bar is?
Lol

I was not able to research a definitive answer on just when the balancer is on fully. This is how the balancer is in relationship to the flange now. Any input would be helpful here. Needless to say we put a lot of torque to it and even went to the old bolt method after stripping the tool (thankfully not the crank!).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/28C7C2AD1EAA499BA02FDB0CD47E7B4D15468000-1.jpg

In order to run the LS3 intake in reverse orientation, the oil pressure sensor at the rear of the valley cover needs to be removed. After much speculation on just how to remove the bung and machine the surface flat, I went crude and just saw-zalled and flapper wheeled it down.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/C91C7297CC274F4D92D48CA60A7954A415468000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/685E86EE239B4E53A78F18E07AB41F2515468000-1.jpg

Now I have yet another decision to make. Katech makes a slick piece that bolts to the flat surface I have created, putting the stock sender at a 90 degree angle. In fact they already had an adaptor for the other LS engines, but the LS3 intake allows even less room than the others. Luckily for me they just released an LS3 specific part that is even more dramatically machined. The alternative is to drill and tap the cap over the oil filter or buy a pre tapped piece.

I'm currently leaning toward ponying up for the Katech piece to keep the harness relatively stock routed, and using the cap by the filer for an aftermarket sender.

[fastfail]

Awesome, that thing is gonna be crazy.

[andrewb70]

'

Now I have yet another decision to make. Katech makes a slick piece that bolts to the flat surface I have created, putting the stock sender at a 90 degree angle. In fact they already had an adaptor for the other LS engines, but the LS3 intake allows even less room than the others. Luckily for me they just released an LS3 specific part that is even more dramatically machined. The alternative is to drill and tap the cap over the oil filter or buy a pre tapped piece.

I'm currently leaning toward ponying up for the Katech piece to keep the harness relatively stock routed, and using the cap by the filer for an aftermarket sender.

Shaun,

Great progress.

For the oil sender, I suggest finding a part from C5 Corvettes or 4th gen f-bodies. I am talking about the piece that goes by the oil filter. They look like this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/100_3043-1.jpg

You don't need a t-fitting, unless you want to run a hobbs switch for some reason.

Andrew

[subtlez28]

I've been getting a bit done. I'll try to catch the thread up some.

On the oil pressure adaptor I decided to spend the money for the nice engineering and machining of the Katech piece. The part that was on there site actually would not clear an LS3 intake. However, after emailing them I found out they had just produced a new part to clear the LS3 intake w no grinding needed. It was a more costly, but the machining was clearly more intensive. I just really want to keep the build as simple, OEM, and uncluttered as possible. So an OEM sending unit hidden under the intake worked for me. I intend to use "Can-bus" gauges. These use signals from the factory sending units via the OBDII diagnostic port (more on that later).

The Katech piece is machined beautifully and is sealed via O-ring!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/6973F88CE11944919BB790D01A0C664E20365000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/890D4815BCFF43B3A888D70028C3BCCF20365000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/A90D08BA77044B32B6C3AC439B958B7F20365000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/888A1404BF6345A6ADE2ADCB00AED95020365000-1.jpg

Sorry, the cell phone pics really do not do it justice.

I also got the steering shaft installed which gave me the opportunity to sit in the car, turn the wheel and make engine noises! It is starting to become a car.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/99BC23FF3CD347E1A5C8E470ECE20FC045960000-1.jpg

I took the engine off the stand and installed the LS7 flywheel with OEM bolts that came w the kit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/E5C520F76F584EEEB34E1BE589821C4C45960000-1.jpg

Put on Brunton's engine stands:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/C99B89BE21B145208286E6098AC4CA0B45960000-1.jpg

I also bolted up the LS1 F-body bell housing and CTS-V trans. I forgot to get action shots of it in the air, but I was able to swing the whole unit into place with the chassis still up on the stands!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/603FD14DF6AF4584AE14265DE62C193845960000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/F42AFAF0BFB8423AB0909C6AF34921F145960000-1.jpg

Next I installed the new CTS rear center section (3.23 gears and G30 limited slip):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/BE458D5B66F74345BED1FE610F9715D645960000-1.jpg

And measured for the drive shaft:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/071BC4889B664DA493996294C2447AB245960000-1.jpg

I'm working through details, but I am told I should remove the flange from the trans, and go to a slip yoke. More on that to come.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/6EA9790574EF444487FDCBE90894816B45960000-1.jpg

BTW, I am currently searching for a stock first gen CTS-V shifter assembly and trans mount to try. I'm coming up empty and would appreciate any help in tracking them down for a reasonable price!

[subtlez28]

I'm working to get all the major components on hand. I am pre-assembling pretty much everything. With the engine in I could get a feel for how much wiring harness I would need.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/298A5CC8CCF04425A8C2C595D8B9256045960000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/B88FE520A6CB46BB87086FB2711D78DD45960000-1.jpg

I called up Speartech and spoke w John. After a lot of research I feel comfortable he will provide a harness what will be cleanly built to fit my simplistic (subtle) style, and have the know how to help me through any potential bump in the process. I am especially fond of his testing every harness on a real engine set up prior to ship out!

Now the hard part, waiting for them to get through there back log of orders so they can build mine! I probably couldn't have picked a worse time of year to order, but I really wanted the engine/trans in before pulling the trigger.

Gratuitous engine pics (that I don't think are in the thread yet):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/70C4E67A5515430589F1B99ED834426E20365000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/32FA3C51B4A04A2C9B258DB3A4258AEB20365000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/8E181AFDF2F34A10B3B9149A2549158320365000-1.jpg

[meenaggie]

Cheater bar was one of the legs off our engine hoist. They are usually removable for easy storage. Yeah, I think you could get enough torque using that to strip just about anything. Looks like a fun project.

[andrewb70]

Shaun,

What kind of flange is on the diff? I would explore a few options before replacing the bolt in yoke with a slip yoke. How is the trans aligned with the rear end? Are they basically inline?

Andrew

[R32Jordie]

Great Build Shaun, Would love to undertake a project like this at some point. You cant go wrong with big engine small car :D

My question is did you choose the CTS diff or was that part of the M-spec kit? I just know there has been some issues with CTS Diffs howling and whining. GM rectified this problem in 2006 with a beefier differential.

[subtlez28]

Cheater bar was one of the legs off our engine hoist. They are usually removable for easy storage. Yeah, I think you could get enough torque using that to strip just about anything. Looks like a fun project.

Correct on all counts!


Shaun,

What kind of flange is on the diff? I would explore a few options before replacing the bolt in yoke with a slip yoke. How is the trans aligned with the rear end? Are they basically inline?

Andrew

Odd three bolt flange. I was also leaning toward making the flange work, but am getting differing advise from Brunton. I may contact the company I purchased my Jeep Rubicon drive shaft from. Rubicons do not have slip yokes. The drive shaft itself has a slip section. I think the issue is the CTS-V flange is odd, so an adaptor ($$!) is needed. The Jeeps for instance run a 4 bolt flange.

The trans and diff do appear to be in line, though I am struggling to get accurate measurements. I can adjust driveline angle via motor and trans mounts. The diff is in a fixed position.


Great Build Shaun, Would love to undertake a project like this at some point. You cant go wrong with big engine small car :D

My question is did you choose the CTS diff or was that part of the M-spec kit? I just know there has been some issues with CTS Diffs howling and whining. GM rectified this problem in 2006 with a beefier differential.

Thanks. The diff is not included but the chassis is set up for it. I know about the CTS-Vs ruining these diffs, but keep in mind, this car weighs way less than 1/2 what a Caddy does. Also, the new unit I have has a stamping right on it from Getreg saying "Noise test - OK". My hope is the new diffs are up to the task.

[andrewb70]

Correct on all counts!



Odd three bolt flange. I was also leaning toward making the flange work, but am getting differing advise from Brunton. I may contact the company I purchased my Jeep Rubicon drive shaft from. Rubicons do not have slip yokes. The drive shaft itself has a slip section. I think the issue is the CTS-V flange is odd, so an adaptor ($$!) is needed. The Jeeps for instance run a 4 bolt flange.

The trans and diff do appear to be in line, though I am struggling to get accurate measurements. I can adjust driveline angle via motor and trans mounts. The diff is in a fixed position.



Thanks. The diff is not included but the chassis is set up for it. I know about the CTS-Vs ruining these diffs, but keep in mind, this car weighs way less than 1/2 what a Caddy does. Also, the new unit I have has a stamping right on it from Getreg saying "Noise test - OK". My hope is the new diffs are up to the task.

Shaun,

I wouldn't use the off-road style telescoping style driveshaft on a road car. You really need a good driveshaft that will operate smoothly at high speeds. I would give Frank a call at The Driveshaft Shop. Since you are running a CTSV trans and rear end, you would just need a shorter version of his aluminum shaft that he sells for CTSVs.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic-driveshafts/cadillac

The CV joint in the front will basically eliminate any concerns about driveline angles and will also have some travel for any trans and diff movements.

Andrew

[subtlez28]

Shaun,

I wouldn't use the off-road style telescoping style driveshaft on a road car. You really need a good driveshaft that will operate smoothly at high speeds. I would give Frank a call at The Driveshaft Shop. Since you are running a CTSV trans and rear end, you would just need a shorter version of his aluminum shaft that he sells for CTSVs.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic-driveshafts/cadillac

The CV joint in the front will basically eliminate any concerns about driveline angles and will also have some travel for any trans and diff movements.

Andrew

Thanks for the input Andrew.

I questioned wether a telescoping shaft would be able to deal w the RPMs this will face.

I shot off an email to the company you linked. I'm sure they are nice pieces, but the cost of the ones linked is a bit scary. I see they also offer the conversion blocks to change from the 3 bolt to the more typical 4. However, at $149 each (times 2) that isn't necessarily cheaper...

I also shot off an email to Tom Woods. We'll see what I find out. I'm told conversion to a slip yoke is as straight forward as unbolting the flange, and cutting off the alignment dowel. What I read on sources reference converting CTS-V T-56s to F-body style, I was put off by the complexity and cost. But then, maybe most others also sought to convert to the F-bpdy rear shift position. In all honesty doing that would solve two problems for me. I'll check into that option also.

[andrewb70]

Thanks for the input Andrew.

I questioned wether a telescoping shaft would be able to deal w the RPMs this will face.

I shot off an email to the company you linked. I'm sure they are nice pieces, but the cost of the ones linked is a bit scary. I see they also offer the conversion blocks to change from the 3 bolt to the more typical 4. However, at $149 each (times 2) that isn't necessarily cheaper...

I also shot off an email to Tom Woods. We'll see what I find out. I'm told conversion to a slip yoke is as straight forward as unbolting the flange, and cutting off the alignment dowel. What I read on sources reference converting CTS-V T-56s to F-body style, I was put off by the complexity and cost. But then, maybe most others also sought to convert to the F-bpdy rear shift position. In all honesty doing that would solve two problems for me. I'll check into that option also.

Frank is terrible about returning emails. I would pick up the phone and call him. He is usually pretty accessible by phone. The other guy that answers the phone(I forget his name) is very knowledgable as well.

I fear that you don't have an inexpensive solution. I think that the splines on the output shaft of the CTSV trans are not very long and are not suitable for a regular slip yoke.

$900 bucks for a driveshaft with the adapters and CV joint isn't too bad. Here is a more "scary" piece...

http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1855

Andrew

[subtlez28]

Frank is terrible about returning emails. I would pick up the phone and call him. He is usually pretty accessible by phone. The other guy that answers the phone(I forget his name) is very knowledgable as well.

I fear that you don't have an inexpensive solution. I think that the splines on the output shaft of the CTSV trans are not very long and are not suitable for a regular slip yoke.

$900 bucks for a driveshaft with the adapters and CV joint isn't too bad. Here is a more "scary" piece...

http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1855

Andrew

I have not pulled the flange yet, but I was thinking about your spline engagement point. I guess the existing splines hold the fixed flange, and the slip yoke will not actually do any slipping once installed (IRS), so that should be ok, right?

If I remove the flange, per Brunton's recommendation, they will send me a drive shaft (that I paid for with the kit). So, that is the most $ friendly alternative.

[andrewb70]

I have not pulled the flange yet, but I was thinking about your spline engagement point. I guess the existing splines hold the fixed flange, and the slip yoke will not actually do any slipping once installed (IRS), so that should be ok, right?

If I remove the flange, per Brunton's recommendation, they will send me a drive shaft (that I paid for with the kit). So, that is the most $ friendly alternative.

The slip yoke will move some, but very little. I would say less than 1/16". If Brunton has already tested this, I would go with it. As you said, it is the least expensive solution. What do they do for the diff end of the driveshaft?

Andrew

[R32Jordie]

Thanks. The diff is not included but the chassis is set up for it. I know about the CTS-Vs ruining these diffs, but keep in mind, this car weighs way less than 1/2 what a Caddy does. Also, the new unit I have has a stamping right on it from Getreg saying "Noise test - OK". My hope is the new diffs are up to the task.

Good to know that it has passed the noise test haha. I figured you wouldn't be putting to much stress on it because of the weight of the car. Just thought id mention it because i just watched as my co-worker just had his replaced at the stealership for a pretty penny. Keep up the good work.

[Motown 454]

Nice project!

[Tig]

This is very cool.
Awesome job.






subd

[subtlez28]

Nice project!


This is very cool.
Awesome job.
subd

Thanks guys!

After banging my head against the wall trying to locate the stock CTS-V shifter parts, I started actively shopping for a GTO or F-body style T-56. While speaking with a trans shop who specializes in Tremecs, I was discussing converting my CTS-V trans to a GTO tailhousing, and main shaft. Bad news is the GTO main shaft is nationally back-ordered... As a stroke of luck though, the guy had a stock CTS-V shifter set up!! I may still convert to the GTO tail housing down the road if I don't love the remote shifter, but at least this will get me going!

I also located a company making a stronger CTS-V trans mount. Apparently the stocker is weak, and failure prone. They also make some shifter bushings I hope will firm up the Caddy shifter.

Beyond finding parts I also got some garage time in. A friend who has been a huge help and motivator committed some hours over the weekend. We got the floor mounted Wilwood brake and clutch pedal mounted. We initially tried to mount them a little further toward the back of the car thinking it would provide more foot room, as the footwell narrows. But when I began to modify the firewall and hang the brake booster and master it was clear I had to move the pedals forward. It was basically a lot of time put in for minimal visible result, but, I'm glad to have progress toward a driving car!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/FD23708D0DCF4686BA3DEDE50A81C7BF13880000-1.jpg

The clutch pedal has a master mounted to it. Brunton makes a bracket for the Miata power booster mounting it backward and above the fire wall as the engine takes up the room where a brake MC and booster would typically go. They also provide a lever system that converts your forward brake pedal motion to backward. Space is at a premium in such a small chassis! Part of me would really like to try manual brakes, but the advise of experienced Stalker owners is to keep power brakes.

I also installed a front rotor and caliper. I took out my Percy's Wheelrite tool to make some measurements at full travel. Another area of my research lately is into track wheel/tire set up. A lot of Lotus 7 replica's run 13" race wheels. With the Wilwoods, that is a tight fit, requiring pricey custom wheels. After a discussion w a race tire distributer I was shied away from 14", 16", and 17". He explained (used) race tires are much easier to come by in 13, 15, and 18" sizes. I don't mean to come across as too cheap, but my budget is running thin, and I want to be able to afford to finish and race this beast, this year! Anyway, I am looking at probably going with a 15x10 custom steel wheel from a manufacturer who just so happens to be right here in WI! Think oval track wheels. Obviously a 15x10 steel wheel is not the lightest option, but w sticky tires, I don't think it will hold me back as much as my weigh OCD would have me think... Plus, I could always pony up for some lightweight custom alloy wheels in a year or two if I still want to.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/46100A93DFD74801B003089E2BD5347113880000-1.jpg

And, yes, I know I should remove the plastic from the rotor and paper tag from the caliper prior to high speed use. LOL

[andrewb70]

Shaun,

Why are you scared of running manual brakes? I have a 4000 pound car and I run manual brakes. For a racing tip application, you can't beat the ability to modulate the brakes like a manual set-up gives.

Andrew

[subtlez28]

Shaun,

Why are you scared of running manual brakes? I have a 4000 pound car and I run manual brakes. For a racing tip application, you can't beat the ability to modulate the brakes like a manual set-up gives.

Andrew
I was actually thinking this would be an ideal car to have manual brakes. However, the guys at Brunton are adamant that power is the way to go. They ran manual brakes on their personal cars, but now have switched to power. They swear it is the better set up and specifically state that manual brakes at high speed required s lot of pedal pressure, which complicated heel/toe downshifting.

The power set up was included with the kit. And now I have it installed, so I guess I will run it. I brought up the simplicity, and feel counterpoint when I was speccing out the car, but I figure you need to listen to experience sometimes. I have no reason to doubt them.

[subtlez28]

Over the summer months I have made some progress. Pace has slowed to a crawl due to the increased activities of summer and my kids being home during the day, but that is far from a complaint.

When I have worked on the car it has been in short bursts, and I have neglected to take pics, which I know takes some of the fun out of the thread. We fit the seats, harnesses, pedals, and all the aluminum. We mounted the engine and took measurements needed for harness and driveshaft.

My use of the CTS-V style trans required some creativity for shifter mounting. Unlike F-body (Camaro/Firebird) style T-56s that mount the shifter right on the tail-housing of the trans, the CTS-V shifter is remote mounted, but with solid linkage.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/C0466D24FF5043EE8CA84E7EFFAA56D641690000-1.jpg

The bad news, is with linkage at stock length, the shifter position is right were a chassis tube was (already removed in the pic). In a car Brunton built, they cut down the linkage to fit more like an F-body trans. We decided to move the chassis tube and create a mounting point to support the shifter.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/76DA2C53A71C4FEB95F8566615F8F4AA41690000-1.jpg

The goal from the start was to trial fit most of the components, then take it apart to have the chassis powder coated. We got to that point, and I found a reasonable local powder coater. I'm proud to say I tore the car down to bare chassis in a mater of less than two hours! I was pretty excited to reach this milestone!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/A6E07D2C29C64E799380F2FB6FE41C9011257000-1.jpg

One week later:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/98FF751C41F7418392550D56FE8BC5E111257000-1.jpg

We already have the front suspension back in place, and bent up some brake lines. Soon we will plumb the fuel system. I put in another nearly $1k order to Summit for car electric harness and fuel system parts, fittings etc. I think I can see light at the end of this tunnel!

[andrewb70]

Great progress Shaun and great hanging out with you the other day!

Andrew

[Motorcitydak]

This is one hell of a build and a sweet car! Glad you posted it here! Really looking forward to more progress

[coolwelder62]

Very Cool.This thing will be a Monster on the track!!!!!!

[subtlez28]

Very Cool.This thing will be a Monster on the track!!!!!!

Thanks! Yes, I would love to get the build done and start scaring myself with it on the track and street!

We have made a small amount of progress since the last update. We installed the front suspension (again) and plumbed the brake lines:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/CA0854217A274C09B0BDD14A3108591114910000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/4C81D58971C84932B84B675CDFF01C2A14910000-1.jpg

It feels good to be permanently installing panels as apposed to the mock up stage.

I hope to make some more strides int he next couple days.

[subtlez28]

We've made some more headway, I will try to catch up.

We connected the aftermarket braided clutch lines to a factory style hydraulic throw out bearing (like an 02 Z28). Because I am using a CTS-V T-56, that came this a thicker, dual-mass flywheel, I had to space the through out bearing away from the trans. I used a piece from Katech (they are getting a lot of my $ on this build... ha). Hopefully everything works out, but I wont know for sure until I add fluid to the clutch hydraulics. I am avoiding adding any fluids now, in case things need to come apart again.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/null_zpsfaad24a2-1.jpg

I also learned that the CTS-V T56 bell housing is longer than the F-body bell housing. We had to make room for the new hydraulic lines by nothing the CTS-V bell. This was pretty straight forward with the aluminum.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/null_zpsfa0a3750-1.jpg

In other trans news, Brunton suggested removing the three bolt flange from the CTS-V T56 so a traditional slip yoke could be used. They also suggested I cut off the alignment dowel. I, wrongly assumed (possibly because I was told...) the output shaft would have the same spline count as an F-body unit, and the F-body rear seal would work if using a slip yoke. Wrong on both counts... The guys at Brunton are working on a custom drive shaft and seal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/null_zps0c9b0a14-1.jpg

I have also since learned the new Camaros also use this three bolt flange. Unfortunately, custom driveshafts are still kind of pricey for the flanges or require adaptors to use more traditional units. So, by converting to slip yoke, hopefully I am saving some money. More on this topic later.

We dropped the engine and trans back in. I finally opened the box for the custom rear CV axles from the Driveshaft shop.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/null_zps8d04d826-1.jpg

I opted to have some new bearings pressed into the donor Miata rear spindles. I guess that was a good choice as the shop had difficulty getting them together. My rear suspension can now go on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/null_zps895694c5-1.jpg

I noticed the other day that the hubs really fight being turned despite the fact there is no driveshaft connected. I'm guessing that may be the new bearings... Is that normal? I can turn them, but it requires some effort! The diff itself is new, but I couldn't really turn it until the axles were installed. I may have to pull some stuff apart and investigate...

With the engine in, we bolted up a header, and made up the steering linkage. This was big for me. I can now sit in the car, shift the trans, work the pedals (except accelerator, which isn't in yet) and turn the wheels!!:drive:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/null_zps83b71eff-1.jpg

I picked up a pair of front tires and had them mounted up. It is great to see a wheel and tire on the car!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/null_zpsbc7bea29-1.jpg

I intend to run a separate wheel/tire combo on the road course (15s and race tires). So, I have been contemplating running 17" drag radials on the back for the street...

I remember reading a few years back how guys were auto-crossing f-bodies on 315 drag radials front and rear (due to lack of availability of good 315s I think). I know the idea of the softer side wall would work against handling but I have a few thoughts on that.
1- This is a very light car so a softer sidewall wont be as big of a deal as a heavier muscle car.
2- I'll be finding 9 and 10/10ths cornering on track, but will likely keep it more civil on the street. And acceleration runs may be the more fun, and safe thing for street driving (and scaring passengers).
3- I will then have my drag combo to drive down to the 1/4 track for kicks.

I would like any feedback on that idea. Especially from guys running DRs on the street, and even more so if in a similarly light car.

I have not yet committed to the idea, but my thought is 275/40/17 drag radials since I already have 17x9" wheels.

[BuddyP]

That is going together so nice!

[pist0lpete]

Shaun as light as that car is I am not sure a softer sidewall is going to net you all that much anyways. Nitto makes a 555R2 with the same compound as the 555R but with stiffer sidewalls. Something to consider. Even the 555R's have pretty stiff sidewalls compared to a Mickey Thompson drag radial.

[subtlez28]

We've made some progress on the build. The slip yoke idea didn't work out for the CTS-V T-56, so that meant a new output shaft needed to be put in. Upgraded a couple things while they had it open, and found the unit to be in great condition. That is the silver lining. The trans was the only used part in the drive line so its nice to know all is well with it.

I found a T-56 specialist a couple hours north of me. I decided to hand deliver the trans to avoid any risk of damage in shipping. Since I was making the trip I also brought along a F-body T-56 I scored on Craigslist. I got such a deal on it I assumed it was messed up. However, more good news there. It was good inside, and so I upgraded it with steel 3-4 shift forks, pads and billet keys. Now I have a fresh T-56 for the next project (maybe my DD 2012 Colorado w the 5.3).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/DF44E9431746468BAFE4663F5F0D50BF_zpszz53-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/subtlez28/media/M-spec/DF44E943-1746-468B-AFE4-663F5F0D50BF_zpszz53crde.jpg.html)

We worked on the rear suspension to get a the alignment close, and the settings right to get the shock travel where I wanted it. I purchased a few sets of suspension push rods to play around with length. I found out a big mail order circle track suspension place is like 20 minutes from me (Lefthander Chassis), so that made getting the parts easy.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/2BABDD1976114A4EB99AF645641896CA_zpslil0-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/subtlez28/media/M-spec/2BABDD19-7611-4A4E-B99A-F645641896CA_zpslil0idvq.jpg.html)

We bled the brakes, and clutch hydraulics. It is starting to feel like a real car! I ponied up for some pretty parts. I really did not like the factory brackets for the coils. I guess it was to speed up production but on the early LS1s (97-98) the coils mounted directly to the valve covers, which were perimeter bolt. When they went center bolt they went to brackets. Anyway, I picked up some black Holley valve covers that have the bosses to mount the coils direct. I really like how they look.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/5E0225E1CE084CEC9F8F8FC91259CA9E_zpsyhi0-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/subtlez28/media/M-spec/5E0225E1-CE08-4CEC-9F8F-8FC91259CA9E_zpsyhi0sci9.jpg.html)


Next I need to set up the DBW throttle pedal and the air intake. My plan is for the intake to go right back through the scuttle and be in the interior between the shelf and dash. I figure this will be direct, and shield it from debris, water and heat. I don't see a lot of guys doing this so I am up for any advice on why this isn't common.

[Mateospeed]

perhaps the intake inside idea isn't common because it defeats the purpose of the firewall - in the event of a backfire, or something similar, there's no longer a firewall between you and the intake path.

Whether this is a big enough concern to bother you is your choice, as are so many safety-related decisions in a build like this.

In other news, I really like the valve cover and coil mount idea - looks a helluva lot better than my coils on my LS1.

[subtlez28]

perhaps the intake inside idea isn't common because it defeats the purpose of the firewall - in the event of a backfire, or something similar, there's no longer a firewall between you and the intake path.

Whether this is a big enough concern to bother you is your choice, as are so many safety-related decisions in a build like this.

In other news, I really like the valve cover and coil mount idea - looks a helluva lot better than my coils on my LS1.

Hmmm. Honestly, I had overlooked that issue. I'm thinking it over. On the one hand I feel the thin aluminum that serves as the firewall offers little protection in the event of a fire. On the other hand, it would protect from say a short burst like a back fire.

I guess the oiled gauze air filter will offer limited protection... Which reminds me, why are paper cone type filters so hard to find?

[minendrews68]

Look out !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I see a late night jaunt through the neighborhood in a "almost" finished ride! Just ask me how I know lol..............

This build is really looking good! The engineering seems to be flawless. I'm impressed.

Carl

[subtlez28]

Look out !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I see a late night jaunt through the neighborhood in a "almost" finished ride! Just ask me how I know lol..............

This build is really looking good! The engineering seems to be flawless. I'm impressed.

Carl

Funny you should say that Carl...

I have decided to focus on getting the car track ready for an event in early May. I plan to work on the street legal and licensing side as the year goes on. In fact I just picked up some Hoosier Road Race Slicks yesterday. I only have 2 street tires (for mock up).

So the temptation to drive it before all the details are worked out will be very difficult to avoid...

[andrewb70]

Shaun...you sort of have a "get out of jail free" card....so I wouldn't worry about a spin around the block...LOL

I also wouldn't put the air filter inside. Aside from the possible fire hazard (you may never pass tech at any event), the noise of the air being sucked in will be deafening!

Andrew

[subtlez28]

Shaun...you sort of have a "get out of jail free" card....so I wouldn't worry about a spin around the block...LOL

I also wouldn't put the air filter inside. Aside from the possible fire hazard (you may never pass tech at any event), the noise of the air being sucked in will be deafening!

Andrew
Andrew

Now that is a truly terrifying thought! I can live with the risk of being burned, but if I showed up to race with a club I don't normally run with and got kicked out at tech, that would ruin my week!

This may be a deal breaker on my interior intake. I really do not mind the noise. Remember this thing will have side pipes. I had not considered tech.

Here is the main issue with running an elbow. I can only go pass side as the brakes take up the driver side. I had hoped/planned to run the battery on the passenger side again to avoid needless cut off switches and rule issues. I guess I will have to sink the battery into the shelf so the terminals are still engine side of the firewall.

Hmm.. I am glad I did not cut the hole yet!

[andrewb70]

Shaun,

I would double check the various tech rules, but I am pretty sure that running an intake inside the passenger compartment is a no-no...

Why put the battery so high up? Isn't there space somewhere in the back and down low?

Andrew

[parsonsj]

I am digging this build. And Brunton is 90 minutes from my house...

What a temptation!

[subtlez28]

Shaun,

I would double check the various tech rules, but I am pretty sure that running an intake inside the passenger compartment is a no-no...

Why put the battery so high up? Isn't there space somewhere in the back and down low?

Andrew
I will look into the rules of the club I run with but the issue is if I run w other clubs. Plus, honestly they put silencers on modern car intakes for a reason. The noise isn't all pleasant. I put a cold air kit on a V-8 Dakota I had. The intake sound was like I had a alternator bearing going out - unpleasant. That said, it will still be loud on the other side of a thin piece of aluminum.

I have already ordered an elbow.

There really is not a lot of places to put the battery. I could put it lower in the footwell on the passenger side, but again w/ various tech rules this requires an external shut off switch. I am going for simplicity. I think the compromise is to sink it somewhat into the footwell, but keep the terminals visible in the engine compartment.


I am digging this build. And Brunton is 90 minutes from my house...

What a temptation!

Thanks.

You should go take a ride with Scott at Brunton. These things are thrilling. Theirs had a bone stock 5.3 when I was down there and it was the quickest thing I had ever been in. It is hard to go faster for the money.

Tell them I sent you. I promised them some exposure. Its pretty cool to see an American owner/operator company succeed!

I cannot wait to have some performance numbers and video to share.

Side note: I just checked out your site. It reminded me I need to come up with a solution for venting my diff and fuel tank. I may be picking your brain soon.

[parsonsj]

Side note: I just checked out your site. It reminded me I need to come up with a solution for venting my diff and fuel tank. I may be picking your brain soon.Give us a call anytime. We've got a new number: 888-216-6033.

[subtlez28]

I mentioned before about some trial and error on the driveshaft. My original stance was to use adaptors on both ends to keep the factory 3 bolt flanges on the CTS differential, and the CTS-V T-56. I figured we could use a driveshaft with a splined section in the middle to take up any movement and ease installation. I had just that kind of driveshaft on my last Jeep Rubicon project.

Well, after some lessons learned, we went with my original idea.

Here is the adaptor made for the T-56 flange:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/4ED13F7181F5496E843FBE4FE5DA44FF_zps4owx-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/subtlez28/media/M-spec/4ED13F71-81F5-496E-843F-BE4FE5DA44FF_zps4owx8eic.jpg.html)

Here is the shaft:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/2E7DEB93E35743C3B5A0FEA475BACA36_zpslyiu-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/subtlez28/media/M-spec/2E7DEB93-E357-43C3-B5A0-FEA475BACA36_zpslyiuwhdp.jpg.html)

I asked for some input on running the intake. I liked the direct and literally straight forward (or backward in this case) route. I figured flow would be good, packaging would be clean, and dry air would be assured if the filter was on the cabin side of the cowl shelf.

However, a friend pointed out that it may cause me issue with some racing sanctioning bodies as it more or less defeats the idea of a firewall. Firstly I don't want to risk missing an event due to tech. Secondly the idea of a potential back-fire through the intake emitting fire directly into the cabin seems less than ideal.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/5F36385A80EE45DC9E89998C4E97BB73_zpsujdt-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/subtlez28/media/M-spec/5F36385A-80EE-45DC-9E89-998C4E97BB73_zpsujdtbpru.jpg.html)

In other news, I received my Diamond Racing wheels. Steel 15x10s with a spun rim. I went this route based on budget. I want to get the car to the track soon. The wheels are of great quality! Obviously steel is a bit heavy, but custom aluminum can come later. The wheels are 21 pounds a piece, the Hoosier 23x9.5x15 Road Race Radials are around 19 pounds. So figure about 40 pounds per corner. Bear in mind this was measured using a bathroom scale, so it could be off a bit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/5ED4F1794C1341929E38C468A5180725_zpskwv9-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/subtlez28/media/M-spec/5ED4F179-4C13-4192-9E38-C468A5180725_zpskwv9ticm.jpg.html)

The sun is coming through the window behind the car, but here is pic of the wheels on the car:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/4BC2407A8FF04DA2B2825F7B7E871C39_zpspoqk-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/subtlez28/media/M-spec/4BC2407A-8FF0-4DA2-B282-5F7B7E871C39_zpspoqkjnmz.jpg.html)

Another catch to using steel wheels is the lack of stand off from the wheel flange surface. Diamond racing told me this would be an issue, so it was no surprise. The problem is my brake set up is stock 10" Miata rotors with beefy Wilwood 4 pot calipers. So the caliper protrudes outward of the hub face, and since the rotor is so small, it is to near the center to allow the steel wheels gradual angle away to clear. No worries though. Nothing a spacer (15mm) and longer wheel studs cannot solve.

[andrewb70]

With your butt being 5 inches off the ground and no roof, you will feel like you're going 150mph while doing 35mph! Make sure you install the "fat guy" passenger seat option so I can get a ride!

Andrew

[Gil]

Hi Shaun,
looks like Euro Lotus 7
Will be killer if you autoX
Very cool project !
Black steel wheel looks like Nascar style, very nice choice imho
Very nice
Gil

[HellPhish89]

why do i have the feeling that thing would like some downforce...

[Cobra 498]

why do i have the feeling that thing would like some downforce...

410 Sprint car wings front and rear would hook that brute up, just put smaller equal size end plates on.

[subtlez28]

Hi Shaun,
looks like Euro Lotus 7
Will be killer if you autoX
Very cool project !
Black steel wheel looks like Nascar style, very nice choice imho
Very nice
Gil
Thanks Gill.

Correct, this is a Lotus 7 replica of sorts.


why do i have the feeling that thing would like some downforce...
Because you are a wise man. That is already on the agenda for next year. Some existing fast track cars like mine with LS engines need the wings.


410 Sprint car wings front and rear would hook that brute up, just put smaller equal size end plates on.
Funny you should say that. The LS3 Stalker that inspired me to build one had a sprint car like wing (and a former sprint car driver).

[subtlez28]

I've been a bit neglectful of my build thread. Sadly, I am not yet racing the car, but I have made some progress of late.

One day, for inspiration I slapped on the hood and some of my magnetic racing numbers (that will be of no use to me on the fiberglass and aluminum skin).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/8EDC2F8F48BF401FB03DB1FA822B16B1_zpshvk2-1.jpg
The bad news is the classic hood, does not clear the pushrod suspension...

A racer friend of mine came up from Chicago to align the car with me. So down from the tables!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/D5DC2A5A63064FC9B819F234DD24A05C_zps4wjo-1.jpg
This one is fuzzy, because I took it quickly with my cell phone. He was more than a little nervous about me stepping back for a photo op at this point!

Down safe and sound, time for a fun (giant wheel-stand) photo!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/9B4E4E282A5B4E14BE1A602E98937794_zpsan8l-1.jpg

Got it aligned, but... I chose the middle height points for the control arms. With the oil pan being the low point... I could not run over a 2x4 laid flat with my 23" race tires... Doh, one step forward, two steps back seems my pace...

So, I had to take the whole suspension off and go to the highest (lowest pick up points - still not very high) settings. Now I need another alignment....

I was inspired by having my number on the car, so I had the side panels vinyl wrapped and added the 228 placards and "AR" for my class (A-Race).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/61B0A6A9B1DB4981BD6E32956247396E_zpsmndt-1.jpg

Then I installed the side pipes and see they are a little close for comfort to the vinyl. I bent out the passenger side as it had even less clearance. Time will tell. I'll keep a fire extinguisher handy when I start her up! May need some heat wrap. Open for suggestion here.

As you can see, we also started the wiring. Since I decided to keep the air intake on the shelf, my battery placement was compromised. I wanted it under hood to avoid extra safety equipment. The solve was to recess it into the shelf, and actually bolt it to the passenger side of the trans tunnel. I used an Odyssey battery and their aluminum box. I suggest you go direct with them, they were a pleasure to deal with and give a great direct price!
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/mainpages/accessories.htm
I'll get a pic of that up when I finish up the wiring.

I went with Speedhut's new CAN-bus style controls that pick up signal from the ECU, eliminating the need for extra sending units. I also ponied up for the GPS speedo. It has all kinds of cool toys like 1/4 mile times, 0-60, etc and will not be effected by differing street and track tire sizes. I chose to have the fuel gauge in the speedo. This should be cool watching one go rapidly down, while the other climbs! You can fully customize your set up. I went yellow. Hey, they look good on a Ferrari, and more importantly should be easy to see.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/3F9750BA184F48BFBE2CD87C962E0CED_zpsqt9g-1.jpg
The blue tape was to protect the dash panel, but may have to stay. I dig the contrast!

Another friend of mine, who happens to be both a car nut and engineer has been invaluable with the electrical. Starting from scratch with just a painless T-bucket kit was a bit overwhelming.

So, as per past practice, another issue bit me. We added the radiator and struggled a lot to build hoses to fit the tight chassis. After paying for a bunch of AN stuff that would not clear, we ended up with heavy duty industrial hydraulic type stuff. The local industrial hose shop was a huge help. We filled it up with Evans water-less coolant. I come back from a few days of vacation and find some coolant on the floor. Just a couple drips mind you, but more than I would expect with all new parts... There was a pin hole near the welds on the tabs.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/7AE8196940324C89A7902207BFE88F11_zpsjcym-1.jpg

After I quite sobbing, I tried epoxying it. However, not wanting to take 2 steps back, I tried to do it in place with out draining the coolant. That didn't work. The coolant made it's way through the epoxy and formed a new pin hole... twice! Today we drained the coolant, wire wheeled off the epoxy (Quick Steel) and re-did it without coolant. That seems to be holding. Wish me luck!

[subtlez28]

IT LIVES!!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sobXS4oP90I&list=UUQCZ2IdKc_kMmdjWGE23FAQ

Just need to tie ups some electrical stuff, fit some body work, and get it aligned!

Lets go racing!

[CruizinKev]

oh nice!!!

[subtlez28]

So, I had the car running... I somehow resisted the urge to street drive it... But Friday I trailered it to an empty lot and drove it a bit. What a thrill! I was very happy with everything, really. I loaded the car on the trailer under it's own power. The LS engine, T-56, LS7 clutch, and Speartech harness all did their jobs flawlessly.

I do not have the rad fan wired yet, and only had the catch can zip tied in. The only issue I had was the catch can leaking a bit. Have to solve that by Saturday and get the hood on it. It is time to go racing!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXXW74z_GX0

The lot was freshly sealed, and I didn't want to get in to much trouble, so I took it easy. I still managed to get asked to leave. Damn Hot Rodders! It felt about like driving in the rain traction wise. I cannot wait to hit the road course!

[andrewb70]

So, I had the car running... I somehow resisted the urge to street drive it... But Friday I trailered it to an empty lot and drove it a bit. What a thrill! I was very happy with everything, really. I loaded the car on the trailer under it's own power. The LS engine, T-56, LS7 clutch, and Speartech harness all did their jobs flawlessly.

I do not have the rad fan wired yet, and only had the catch can zip tied in. The only issue I had was the catch can leaking a bit. Have to solve that by Saturday and get the hood on it. It is time to go racing!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXXW74z_GX0

The lot was freshly sealed, and I didn't want to get in to much trouble, so I took it easy. I still managed to get asked to leave. Damn Hot Rodders! It felt about like driving in the rain traction wise. I cannot wait to hit the road course!

Pretty awesome Shaun!

You need a lightweight clutch in that thing, that will really make it up!

Andrew

[Tig]

Its alive bwahahahaaa.

Man that is awesome. Looks and sounds amazing.
Did read somewhere that it has 500whp? Good lord that must be a blast to drive.
Lookin forward to seeing you get a deeper into that go pedal.

[Gil]

Come on, It's not an oval track car. Turn clockwise now !

This beast is awesome, beatiful work !

Gil

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Very nice any track time yet?

[subtlez28]

Pretty awesome Shaun!

You need a lightweight clutch in that thing, that will really make it up!

Andrew
Thanks! Yes, if I hadn't already had the LS7 set up... Should be hella reliable though!


Its alive bwahahahaaa.

Man that is awesome. Looks and sounds amazing.
Did read somewhere that it has 500whp? Good lord that must be a blast to drive.
Lookin forward to seeing you get a deeper into that go pedal.

Should be north of 500 flywheel horsepower, based on similar combos out there. I'd like to do a chassis tune to get a number. Maybe over the winter.


Come on, It's not an oval track car. Turn clockwise now !

This beast is awesome, beatiful work !

Gil

LOL, I got kicked out before I could try...

[dangina]

love the car and would love to build one someday - looks good in black!

[subtlez28]

So, bad news first. We got rained out on last Friday night, so we didn't get to run down the drag strip. Times are coming though, I promise!

That was actually ok, as I worked on the car until after midnight (before the road course) fitting the hood and tying up last minute things. I ran without the rear body work.

Good news: perfect weather on Saturday for our High Speed Autocross. As expected, even though this was literally the first time I dove it other than rolling around the parking lot, I found the confidence to push it right away! The car is obviously capable and surprisingly forgiving.

It was the third fastest car there, behind a heavily modded GTR (no real hope of catching him), and a LS swapped - well sorted and moded Datson 240Z (driven by a very skilled and experienced driver).

The form of racing I do is called High Speed Autocross. We run on ~2 mile road courses, from a stop, one lap for time (no cones).

http://www.mcscc.org/autocross.php

The car ran a 1:19.760. To put that into perspective, my fastest time with my old 02 Z-28 was 1:25.809, and I ran a 1:24.839 with a 2012 ZL-1 (580 HP Camaro).

I have some video. I will edit and put something together when time allows. Though it does not capture the excitement as it looks pretty low drama with slicks.

This thing hauled. Enough power on tap to light the tires in 4th gear meant busying myself with shifting much was not needed. It also helped me keep the rpms down for the maiden voyage (don't think I was taking it too easy though).

Going ~130 mph with no windshield was quite the rush! I know better understand the chin strap as the wind wanted to rip it off my head!

I absolutely love the manual steering! I finally understand what the car review guys mean when they say they can feel what the tire is doing through the wheel! I am strongly considering a move to manual brakes for the same reason.

As far as teething issues, there were only a couple. I discovered another pin hole in my passenger side header (at a factory weld...).

With the 23" slicks, I ran the track in 4th and 5th gear (needed 5th). I think I will move to taller slicks. Shifting into overdrive (5th) was not as speedy as the other gears. And the vague CTS-V shifter might not be helping that. Just stuff to refine.

I also started experiencing a bit of front brake lock up in fast corners (like the 130 mph one at the end of the front straight). Not so much at weight transfer. I'm used to ABS cars, but that wasn't my mistake. It happened late in the braking. The proportioning valve is already allowing full pressure to the rear, so that isn't the issue. I may try a more aggressive rear compound and taller slicks for the next event.

Long term I think I will go with race style manual brakes with split masters and a balance bar.

Another issue was temp. According to my Speedhut CAN-BUS (reading through the OBDII diagnostic port) my LS (stock 195 thermostat and water-pump) was running 210-220 moving and as much as 240 sitting still. Not sure if this is normal with the Evans waterless coolant, the gauge is off, or if the fan is just not able to keep up (puller). I may swap to a larger, pusher fan.

I'm rambling a bit. I look forward to any feedback or conversation on my results.

[subtlez28]

The right lane trap mph was not working. Lets see who can guess what number I am...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/28C34F2E501D4DA2ACAF4322112BB9F9_zpsk8yc-1.jpg
I went to a test and tune Weds with some friends.

I spent the first couple hours trying to diagnose a no-charging issue. Ultimately I gave up, charge it w jumper cables, pushed it through staging and made a run. Oddly after the run it started charging so I made a few passes.

I swapped out my 23" Hoosiers for some 25.5s. Not only do they look bad @$$, they allow me to run higher speed in fourth, avoiding using overdrive like I had to at BHF.

I ran 17 psi. I imagine it would have liked less pressure for drag racing, but really not what the tires are for. I also passed on the burn out since I am having issues with reverse...

My friend took a decent video that I will try to post soon. You can hear the poor Hoosiers begging for traction pretty much the whole way. I really couldn't go full throttle in 2nd (the gear I launch in) without burning off the tires. Third was also touchy.

I was short shifting an bit, which might explain the lower than expected trap speed.

Point being there is plenty left in it!

I also did a low speed autocross. It was in an oval track and infield, so it was pretty tight. Not ideal for such a powerful car. It also tended to push badly in low speed corners. I think this is a scrub issue, as the 15's I am running require spacers, so they are not optimal offset wise.

I also experienced front lock up again (running the 23"s).

I have one more high speed event in October. I am hoping the taller slicks help. I do not have time to do much with the brakes before then.

The off season will be the time for brake and oiling revisions.

[HellPhish89]

how to hook up ~670hp per ton... hmm... time for taller tires..lol.

[chevyz240]

This is a pretty cool, bare bones type of car! It's hard to beat the power to weight ratio! I had a similar Seven replica, it had a 4 liter BMW V8 with a centrifugal blower. 420 horses and 1850 lbs dry weight. Does your car really weigh 1600 lbs?



104200

Driving video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJAZlsxYJq4

[subtlez28]

Sorry, I did not see this reply earlier. I'm told the Brunton Demo car with an Iron 5.3 weighs 1600. I have not scaled my car but hope for less with the aluminum block 6.2. Though I do run a heavy clutch and steel wheels. So it may be a wash.

I will post an actual weight soon I hope!

[subtlez28]

So, I've been a little neglectful of updates to my build. Over the winter I had to pull the car basically entirely apart. I had to have the T-56 repaired. That meant pulling the engine, which meant pulling the interior, bodywork, steering , exhaust and part of the front suspension.

The good news was with the engine, shelf, scuttle, and side panel out of the way, I was set to update an area I was not entirely happy with (brakes and pedals).

After much thought I took a chance on Wilwood's dedicated pedal set up. I felt this was an area worthy of improvement. Firstly, I was experiencing front brake lock up that I could not work out with the adjustable proportioning valve (limiting pressure to the rear). I was also skeptical of the need for power brakes on the car. I was already in love with the manual steering, and wanted similar feel and feedback in the brakes. I also like the spartan nature and effort required to hustle the car around.

Anyway, I probably should have taken better pics of the original set up. I was never truly satisfied with the pedal placement. Original set up included a Wilwood pedal for clutch, another for brake, and a custom set up from Brunton to allow a lot of accelerator pedal travel to actuate the "fly by wire" pedal/sensor, that was mounted up on the shelf. Their set up worked, just like I said, room for improvement.

Here is the Wilwood pedal set up. It looks and feels more race car now!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/B78F1382A64F4CD6BFDEAB83682E7BB4_zpshj2v-1.jpg
I did have to move the pedals rearward to clear the trio. I moved the seat back to compensate, and am overall happier.

The main draw was going to manual brakes, and divorced two master cylinders for the front and rear brakes. This also allowed for a balance bar to further tune the bias. Willwood's tech line guy was extremely helpful! At his recommendation I went with a 3/4" front and 7/8" rear master cylinder. I kept the original wildwood master cylinder for the clutch (in fact we kept the hydraulics in tact with the motor pulled to avoid the pain of bleeding again). Engine out allowed for much easier brake line modification as the brake masters (Wilwoods new mini masters) were on the floor rather than the shelf.

I relocated the accelerator pedal for the LS engine harness to under the shelf also. We were able to work out a ratio that allows 6" of accelerator pedal travel. A must to modulate the arguably overkill (no such thing) power level.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/48B7643545294A3F9FDE795F26647F89_zpsa1zf-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/3CC66A3386B0402D9994CB0DADB1C18A_zpse1n7-1.jpg

[subtlez28]

Part of my brake upgrade also called for a cool kit I found at Flyin' Miata. They machine Wilwood 4 pots to accept an integrated emergency brake. This was a double score as I wanted more brake power, and the OEM Miata calipers oriented the emergency brake toward the tub of the car. The FM kit had the brake cable run straight toward the inside (perpendicular to the rotor).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/92172C4E4E91469EA68C828BBEEB6F63_zpsbnug-1.jpg

I am impressed with the machine work on the kit. I was also able to upgrade to the slightly larger (but still cheap) Miata "sport" rotors.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/CFA201D30616413FB6C8A47D17E918D7_zpspfus-1.jpg

The pretty purple anodizing didn't really fit my style, so I rattle canned them black quick prior to installation:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/E5024D93EFD849A19E8A39880901B4AA_zps2lqk-1.jpg

I also took the chance to install some longer ARP wheel studs. They went in with the hub in place (there is a relief cut out) which was a huge relief (see what I did there?!). I also needed the longer studs. I have to run a 13mm spacer on the front and rear to get the steel wheels to clear the beefy Wilwood calipers.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/4BD45C03ACCA4B0B96B7A57747D0CCBB_zpsmvzy-1.jpg

I am now running Wilwood BP20 pads front and rear. So far so good. No issues with fade whatsoever (during 20 minute HPDE sessions). Gotta love light cars!

[subtlez28]

Another off season add on was to add some oil control. I had not yet noticed an issue, but guys with fast C6 vettes and another Stalker owner have found the limits of the Corvette pan's baffling. Improved Racing makes a set up to help with this. I figured it was cheap insurance. I considered an Accusump (in fact I have a whole set up I purchased for another LS racer), but for now I want to avoid the complication and room it would consume.

Of course I put off the undesirable task of dropping the pan until the day before my first event of the year (an HPDE at Blackhawk Farms).

The Improved Racing baffle can be purchased with a crank scraper/windage tray for the 6.2.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/D0A4696ADACD4C5A91200D8D0C224FFA_zpsbosb-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/FF3D92D461A4452C8CD3596E4556E71A_zps10pw-1.jpg

While I was at it I squirted the white cowl black w Plasti-dip (love that stuff) and threw on the seat covers (I raced it last year with bare aluminum seats). Looking sinister!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/6914726CE8034B158C56527F2F885095_zpsbtiq-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/DCB850FEE188454A9130AB0FDEFC773D_zpskxkc-1.jpg

I completed my first HPDE on Saturday. I had not done an HPDE before because I thought I would miss having the competition of lap times (like the full course HSAX - Time Attacks I do). I am hooked! Tons of lap time for the money, and passing is addictive!!!

I then competed in the HSAX at Blackhawk Farms on the following Monday (Memorial Day). I set fast time of day (admittedly the crazy fast cars from the club weren't there like the 1,000 HP GT-R, LS swapped Datson or race ready Evo)!! A friend snapped a pic of another friend of mine (and alignment guy) who co-drove (I was #228, he was #288 ). This time he didn't embarrass me by setting a faster time (in my car), like he did in a low speed autocross last fall...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/E811C4E36BFA43128686D6FEFF79E92A_zpstsmb-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

Nice update Shaun.

You should think about adding this to the shifter:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vms-871001?seid=srese1&gclid=CMz_iseb4sUCFYQ6aQodHlwAAw

Andrew

[subtlez28]

Cut and pasted from another forum (after scaling it looks like I should change my title...):
I'm not 100% finished with my car yet (M-spec #007), but have been racing it since last fall. I don't have it all the way sorted yet but am very happy with its performance.

I don't have my rear body work, lights or front fenders mounted yet. But I did mock up my rear body work when I scaled it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/6914726CE8034B158C56527F2F885095_zpsbtiq-1.jpg

ROAD COURSE
It is hard to compare road course times I since we are scattered out throughout the country (and some outside the country I'm sure). But at my home track, Blackhawk Farms Raceway I have set fast time of day at the last two events! *I race a format called High Speed Auto Cross (HSAX). This is a full track run, from a standing start, no cones.

My first time out (09/14) I ran a best time of 1:19.760. That is pretty quick, especially for a first event. For reference the fast time I ever ran with my old 02 Z28 was a 1:25.809 (a then class record on street tires). The current track record was set that day by a 1,000 HP, tuned GTR at 1:14.

I came back after a tire and brake change this season and have set FTD at both events running a 1:19.062 at the first event and a 1:17.321 at the next! I think with some aero, seat time and stickier tires that GTR's record may fall! Again, for reference the 2nd fastest car at my recent event was brand new Z28 (GM's new track toy) and it ran a 1:20.xxx. Man was it fun passing him and Z06 Corvettes in the HPDE that weekend!

1/4 MILE DRAG STRIP
I know these cars are not set up to be drag racers, but with the power to weight I knew it would be fun.

In 2014 I ran at a cold autumn open track night. Tires spinning well past 1/2 track I ran a best of:
12.336 @123.84 mph! *Not bad, but due to some issues I was not able to do a burn out, and the road race tires were not ideal. My 60' was 2.261...

This year I went back, still on my vintage road race 25.5x10.0x15 Hoosier bias plies, but this time I had a warmer track and did a good burn out. *Best run was:
11.429 @124.01 The big difference was the more respectable 1.815 60'.

I have some drag radials coming. I'm hoping to be in the 10's next time around.


WEIGHT
A racer friend let me borrow his scales this week. My car is a M-spec w the classic hood, an LS3, and T-56. I'm a little heavy though with the 15x10 steel race wheels.
1711 pounds with fluids (not quite full gas tank).
Empty it has a 50.5/49.5 front/rear balance.
With me in the car it weighs 1894 with a 47.7/52.3 weight balance.

0-60 Time
I haven't had a chance to capture that number, but I am eager to see what you other owners are finding. I'm guessing it will be quite impressive when I get the drag radials.

[pist0lpete]

Awesome numbers! Sounds like you have really been enjoying he car. Keep us posted as your times get quicker.

[subtlez28]

Awesome numbers! Sounds like you have really been enjoying he car. Keep us posted as your times get quicker.

I got a nudge on another forum and it reminded me to update. Sorry for the low sleep rambling, but the cliff notes are I'm getting faster on the road course, but not yet quicker in the 1/4.

I've been tracking the crap out of it, and neglecting the build thread.

I'm more of a road course guy. I have set fast time of day at every timed event I have done this year! Simple less weight theory in action! My events have been at Blackhawk Farms mostly but one road race event at Milwaukee Mile. Fun track. I never raced it before for fear of concrete. Sadly two racers' cars fell victim to that concrete that day...

I also went to Road America for the 1st time! Wow, you cannot oversell that place! I love it! High speeds. I don't know exactly how fast I got down the main straight but can tell you it was over 150, as I needed 5th gear! Gets pretty loud with no roof or windshield! I was definitely hitting some aero limits at that speed. Need to think about a windshield and downforce.

Whooping up on C7 Z06s on track days was quite a thrill!

As far as drag racing, I picked up some Nitto DRs earlier, also in 275/40/17s. I probably should have waited for some MTs. But I got in a hurry. As luck would have it I got rained out whenever I had time to go drag racing until last week.

My previous best was a 11.4 @124.01 with a 1.815 60', on road race Hoosiers.

The DRs were not the miracle cure I hoped for. I only got four runs in because it was Honda Night at Greatlakes Dragaway.... I'll hold back on that rant...
1- 11.660 @125.41 w/ 2.020 60'
2- 11.879 @ 123.84 w/ 2.030
3- 11.576 @ 125.10 w/ 2.057
4- 11.973 @ 123.64 w/ 2.151 (spinning a lot)

My son got some cell phone video that I will post once I edit it down.

I started at 18 PSI, then went to 16 PSI for the last two. I'm hoping lower pressure will do the trick. I also couldn't work on my launch much with just the 4 runs thanks to the Hump Day Honda $#!+ Show...

I hope to get back to GLD this Wednesday.

Side note, a buddy of mine with essentially the same engine in his 69 Camaro came along. With his current tune he made 449 RWHP! Up from the 419 he rain with initial tune (I am basing my power estimate on).

I have some bigger headers coming from Brunton. Once I get those on I need to get to the Dyno and tuner myself!

[subtlez28]

I got back to the track today, and thanks to a smoother experience was able to get 11 runs (ironically) in in the 1st two hours! Thats good because after the sun goes down, so does grip.

This time I ran 12, 10 and then 8 PSI in my 275/40/17 Drag Radials.

I got more respectable 1.8XX 60' times and was rewarded with a bunch of 11 flats at 125 MPH.

My best of the day was 11.040 @125.33 with a 1.845 60'.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/02593650738F469AA019C5D0F3603985_zpsaujq-1.jpg
The little 7 must be intimidating, because a couple people red lighted against me...

I was so desperately close to the 10s... But traction was limited and going away as the track cooled. A couple guys told me they could hear the tires spin even as I shifted into 4th. I'm confident I will see 10s this spring with warmer track. I was hoping to run the DRs as my street tires. But it appears I may need to go even more aggressive on tire to get the best 1/4 mile times (deep 10s?).

I was happy though, I ran across this guy at the track. The Lambo was having traction issues also. He told me he ran a 11.5 @135 with a 2.2 60'. I didn't get to line up with him but felt pretty good about my budget home built running quicker!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/86D3546C66864038BCA35E4B71DE9A28_zpsolib-1.jpg[

I also finally got a 0-60 time from my Speedhut GPS speedo!
3.03 seconds!
Again, painfully close to the 2.XX bragging rights...
Oh well, next year.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/E3B8E79E4CB64CC5BA499A16105C5D4D_zpsi9gn-1.jpg

Murica'!

[subtlez28]

There was a pro-photographer at one of my track events. I finally had some time to upload and share a couple action shots!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/301V4533_zpsqvrbpu8i-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/301V8852_zpss4wljqf6-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/301V9052_zpsevx5ogaw-1.jpg

Next on the agenda:
Aluminum wheels
New Headers (larger diameter and better construction)
Tune
New Water pump?
Wing(s)
Might even get crazy and get it street legal!

[Godbolt]

Awesome. Just awesome.

[subtlez28]

Oh, the track owner called my car "motorized lawn furniture". He said no offense, but I took it as a compliment from the start. Eating up C7 Z06s makes my ride hard to insult on track.

[Godbolt]

Bahaha! Well, it's one hell of a ride. My kind of furniture for sure. Good to see it being put to use. Looks like a lot of fun.