Aluminum vs Nodular 3rd member

[ohm]

I can't believe I can't find a thread on this topic. I have a Moser M9 nine inch minus the 3rd member. I am about to order a 3rd member and don't know weather to get an aluminum or nodular case? Of course for weight I would love to get an aluminum case but I have heard they require more maintenance. It's for a 69 Camaro that will be driven 60% street(cruising around town) and 40% autocross/road race. 350HP now but LS swap soon so around 500HP in the future. Thanks for any input!!
Richard

[TheJDMan]

I had the same desision to make last year and I went with the nodular version.

[ohm]

I got quoted a $100 more for aluminum so not a big difference. My buddy told me get nodular if you don't want to have any maintenance.

[Ron.in.SoCal]

What kind of maintenance? Iron is stornger, heavier (unsproung, no less) and less expensive. There are many 500 hp cars running aluminum. I've got 600 and went aluminum. As soon as my car's on the road I'll let you know if there's any problems...lol

[Motorcitydak]

I dunno about maintenance with it but I am planning to get an aluminum thru-bolted 3rd, possibly with the 10 bolt pinion support. I know it is overkill, but to me that just means that I will not have to worry about it failing. Speedway motors looked to have the whole setup minus diff and gear for a little over $500

Edit:yep, install kit included

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Inch-Ford-Yukon-Aluminum-Case-Pinion-Support-Yoke-Bearing-Kit-Rearend-/221186853913?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337fc38c19&vxp=mtr

[sam 74]

i went with nodular, i was told not to use aluminum in a street car, but its been a long time now and i can't remember why you're not suppose to use aluminum.

[kawaden]

My Diff guy recomended a Mark Williams Aluminium through bolt 3rd for my project which will be mostly street driven.

[68sixspeed]

I changed to an aluminum mosier thru bolted setup and have a couple thousand miles on it so far with no problems, but I am curious to see if it gets noisy or changes backlash with age. 533hp and 508tq at the wheels so it will be getting a decent workout. Most of the independent rear end cases are aluminum and don't have problems until the 800+HP level. (Then again, they usually throw the half shaft first!) Dan

[parsonsj]

I used aluminum with no issues.

[HarleyR]

Ford Racing Investment cast Steel third members lighter then iron.... stronger than alum.... i can most likely find you a nice used one....

[dontlifttoshift]

Thats the cup car case, manufactured by Strange but only available through Ford Racing, right?

[ohm]

So I ended up ordering a Yukon thru bolt with 10 bolt pinion support and tru track. It's 13lb lighters then its nodular counter part. It's rated over 1000hp and looks really cool. I'll keep you guys posted how it works out. Thanks for all the input!!
Richard

[AmKenpo1]

I see you've already placed your order, but here is something to think about.
The Aluminum Thru Bolt design cases are great for strength and less weight is an advantage for some. One thing we rarely see folks mention in most third member questions is pinion bearing lubrication. A majority of these cases are designed for Drag racing applications, which has a greater emphasis on keeping gear lube from moving back on a launch, small oil passages, this can be an issue when using one of these in a Auto-X or road race car that really needs increased pinion bearing lubrication. The Ford Daytona support is designed for increased lubrication but may not work for some of the thru bolt cases.
I only post this as help for those looking at investing $1300.00 + on such an important component of your driveline. Be sure to consider the pinion support when looking at 3rd members.

[Skip Fix]

I had Pyle Bros here swap out a 5.14 and spool(for sale cheap:) ) for a 3.50 posi in an N case I had picked up with an aluminum pinion support. AS the last guy said some are designed for drag only -luckily the one on my pumpkin was OK for street/strip. It will be for the Impala 409 project.