Wilwood Hydraulic Clutch Cylinder

[brgarris]

This may be a simple question to some, but it has me puzzled. I am currently building a pro-tour '69 camaro and I fitted everything up. I am running a T-56 magnum with a Wilwood hydraulic clutch provided by Keisler Engineering. The booster is a tuff stuff 7" dual diaphragm and as you can see it is at a pretty high angle. Is this normal? From other pictures I have seen, many people have a booster/master cylinder which run parallel to the ground. How do you do that and keep your booster from contacting the hydraulic clutch cylinder??? I know many of oyu have probable seen this happen before....any help is appreciated


https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62735&d=1343700146

[badazz81z28]

Is your booster upside down? It doesn't even look like you will be able to close the hood.

I have the Keisler Clutch as well. Honestly...I'm thinking the system is designed for a stock car and not anticipating any after market parts far from OEM in the area. I hope you get some more input, but it appears from my questions, few folks are running the Keisler kit as most use OEM 4th gen F-body hydraulics.

[badazz81z28]

Now that I think about......I don't think mine would have fit either if I was still using the large booster...I'm using the small TA booster.

[brgarris]

The booster that I am ussing is a tuff stuff 7" dual diaphragm. How big is a TA booster? Any pictures of your setup?

[badazz81z28]

The booster that I am ussing is a tuff stuff 7" dual diaphragm. How big is a TA booster? Any pictures of your setup?

I think it's 9"...My car is a sec gen, but I can still shoot some pics for you.

[brgarris]

ok thanks!! has to be some other people out there who has used the wilwood hydraulic clutch M/C from Keisler.....

[exwestracer]

That angle is pretty common on the later "G Body", etc. GM cars. I'm curious about one thing; this may or may not be a big deal to you, but correct design is correct design... How are the pushrod to cylinder angles? It seems like with parallel pedal arms, one or the other (or both) would have to be putting a lot of side load on the pushrod?

[brgarris]

That angle is pretty common on the later "G Body", etc. GM cars. I'm curious about one thing; this may or may not be a big deal to you, but correct design is correct design... How are the pushrod to cylinder angles? It seems like with parallel pedal arms, one or the other (or both) would have to be putting a lot of side load on the pushrod?

But this is on a "F Body" not a "G body".....actually the brake booster uses the bottom hole in the brake pedal and then there is another hole in the clutch pedal. These holes are not in the same position on pedals thus allowing for the varying angles. When I had everything mocked up as seen in the picture, the pushrods to cylinder concentricity was perfect....figured that was important to have to avoid frequent replacement.

[dontlifttoshift]

You have the wrong brackets between the firewall and booster. The booster pushrod needs to hook up to the bottom hole on the brake pedal.

I have never had much luck with the 7" boosters, even the dual diaphragm version. Sometimes they are a necessity but I try to avoid them when I can.


*edit* got it backwards, booster pushrod does need to connect at the lower hole on the brake pedal.

[exwestracer]

QUOTE=brgarris;973434]But this is on a "F Body" not a "G body".....actually the brake booster uses the bottom hole in the brake pedal and then there is another hole in the clutch pedal. These holes are not in the same position on pedals thus allowing for the varying angles. When I had everything mocked up as seen in the picture, the pushrods to cylinder concentricity was perfect....figured that was important to have to avoid frequent replacement.[/QUOTE]

Good point, and I hadn't thought about the fact that the G body also used an angled reservoir so the cap ended up horizontal.

The angle I was referring to above is the angle between the pedal arm and the cylinder pushrod. Here's an example of a pedal designed for the angled cylinder. 71947 That angle (red lines) should allow the pedal to move past 90 deg to the pushrod as you press on it. The same thing would apply to the clutch being pointed the opposite direction. If you have stock pedals, I can't see how they could both be "right"...