View Full Version : 2004R lugs on stops!
newschool72
01-31-2013, 11:19 AM
I need a little help figuring out where my problem may be on my trans. I have a stage 2 2004R from Trans Depot and it tries to stall the engine when coming to a stop. Like a stick trans if the clutch isnt in, but at the last second it lets go and the engine idles back up. I am using the B&M lockup controller and it seems to be working. I can adjust the lockup up or down with the dial and I can feel it go in and out of lockup, but coming to a stop ,it feels like the converter is momentarily stuck in lockup. Is it something I should worry about or give the trans more time to break in? The whole car only has about 130 miles in it, so everything is fresh. Anyone run into this before and have some advice? Thanks in advance.
dontlifttoshift
01-31-2013, 11:50 AM
I know very little about automatics but it sounds like the trans isn't downshifting. You could temporarily disconnect the lock up wiring circuit and eliminate that from the equation.
sanman357
01-31-2013, 12:15 PM
Check that the tv cable is adjusted properly. There is a procedure for checking it with a pressure gauge and a hose I'll look for the link and post it if I can find it.
Found it.
http://www.extremeautomatics.com/images/2004R_Transmission_Install.pdf
wiedemab
01-31-2013, 12:27 PM
I don't know how you have it wired, but I used a relay wired normally closed connected to my brake light switch, so that when I step on the brake, it would open the relay and cut power to the lockup circuit. I used a Bowler lockup module which basically only locks up in 4th gear based on pressure and time (locks ups after a specified time).
I don't know how B&M's lockup module works, but you absolutely need to cut power to the lockup circuit upon the application of the brakes.
I'm not sure if the TV system would keep the converter locked..............but if the brake circuit is wired properly, the TV cable would have no effect on the converter staying lock as the lockup would have no power. You do need to make sure that the TV cable is properly adjusted or your transmission will not live.
Hopefully, I made some sense......
newschool72
01-31-2013, 01:03 PM
Yea ,the TV is set good , I think. I spent alot of time on it and am happy with the gear shifts. The B&M unit wires through the brake switch and has a light to indicate when the converter is locked or not(green/locked-red/unlocked). It also has a dial to adjust engagement RPM. It all seems to be functioning right, EXCEPT when I come to a stop. The red light comes on(lockup disengaged) when I push the brake pedal, but the lockup clutch seems to be sticking until the torque of the engine overcomes it. I can give a little gas as I stop and it will unlock without pulling the engine down. Can the converter clutch stick mechanically?
Samckitt
01-31-2013, 01:25 PM
Sounds like the locking torque converter isn't disengaging when you put on the brakes. Years ago I had a 200R4 behind a TPI motor, wiring harness didnt have provision for the lockup torque converter, so I put a switch in the console & manually turned it on. If I forgot to turn it off when I cam to a stop it would lunge, stall, spit, sputter.
That's what it sounds like to me.
newschool72
01-31-2013, 01:52 PM
It makes good sense to me that the converter is not unlocking, but would it be a mechanical"stick" or the wiring. It has never failed to disengage before the motor stalled and the B&M controller engages right going down the road. If the converter was electrically engaged would it stall the engine when I came to a stop?
alocker
02-01-2013, 03:31 AM
First step like someone said above, disable the B&M first to see if this helps.
Second is the TC lockup solenoid my be sticking on. Fortunately that is an easy fix, but you must make sure the B&M thingy is working properly.
I'm familiar with what the B&M is but I don't know if it uses the 3rd or 4th pressure switch to activate the system. If it does not, the problem is probably with the B&M controller.
newschool72
02-01-2013, 08:41 AM
How would I disable the B&M controller and still have the lockup converter wired? It is all wired together. Help and thanks for the feedback.
dontlifttoshift
02-01-2013, 08:53 AM
Pull the fuse. You don't want the converter wired, we are trying to determine if it is in fact a converter problem. By taking the electronics out of the equation, (by pulling the fuse) you can eliminate that part from the equation.
So if you disable the lockup portion of the transmission and it eliminates your problem you know that is the issue. If the problem persists, try manuall downshifting the transmission all the way to first gear by gear and see if the engine still want to stall. If it does still stall with a manual downshift, then it is possible that the converter is "sticking" but I think that is unlikely.
You won't hurt the converter or trans by test drving it with the lock up inoperational.
newschool72
02-01-2013, 09:58 AM
Ok will do. Im trying to remember exactly how I wired the B&M up but I dont recall a fuse. Ive got the paper work to the unit in a drawer in my tool box. Worse case, I guess I could pull the ground or just unplug it from the 2 trans wires. If my blown back will let me crawl under the car tomorrow, I will try it and report back. Thanks again.
wiedemab
02-01-2013, 10:44 AM
Depending on what circuit you wired it into on the fuse panel, you should be able to pull the fuse from the panel -- assuming you didn't wire it in with other items that essential for the vehicle to operate.
Powered by vBulletin®